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Old Jul 07, 2012, 12:07 AM
If it spins, wear it.
whirlcap's Avatar
Northern Nevada
Joined Jan 2011
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Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
............... and to my LHS to cancel my pre-order of the 130x which seems to be going the way of the Carbon Cub, at least with the initial batch
Are you backing out of another chance to beta test?
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 12:25 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
6,473 Posts
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Originally Posted by whirlcap View Post
Are you backing out of another chance to beta test?


The manager at my LHS has his, I held it in my hand today... he'll be taking his first flight tomorrow... I'll let him beta test for me

... if his is still issue free after a week I'll tell him to sell me that one... I'll pay full price for it
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 06:05 AM
Chris
Canada, NS, Queensland
Joined May 2012
173 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
over here...

the piece of tape center picture...

Attachment 4991440

Edit:
Has dried a little darker now... match is better.
Hi North, sorry for the slight misdirect. Mine has dried like that as well. Did you say you're background is design? ACAD? How can we get more saturation ?? It's a shame to strip it like Fishy and start over although I found a paint scheme I think is really nice. The Champ's not a bi-plane but now that I know how Fishy removes the paint so well -Thanks Fishy - and that this little plane is a great flyer it might be a winter project as well as my wish list..
Waco Maiden.mov (9 min 34 sec)
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Airhead600cc View Post
Hi North, sorry for the slight misdirect. Mine has dried like that as well. Did you say you're background is design? ACAD? How can we get more saturation ?? It's a shame to strip it like Fishy and start over although I found a paint scheme I think is really nice. The Champ's not a bi-plane but now that I know how Fishy removes the paint so well -Thanks Fishy - and that this little plane is a great flyer it might be a winter project as well as my wish list..
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkkXyC2TzQ8
Thanks Airhead.....

credit also goes to Ridgewalker, I will take most forshowig he how to though. Ridge, maybe will take the main parts.

Yes it is a WInter, and rain prject but more when the wx is nothumid.
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 07:43 AM
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We talked about Keycam 808 if it can carry a payload of two keycams?

today the wind was kinda wicked, Once I broke the barrier I was fine, itcame and went, rather chance it I played it safe. Off I go a fast climb, and Bam cutting grass. If you can do it better lets see.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY_9O...ature=youtu.be
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Paint has been purchased 59 cents per container. Even sealer. Colors I got red white and blue. Even picked up a brus set. With 50% off and the sweet girl taking the additional coupon who's to complain
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 01:40 PM
Chris
Canada, NS, Queensland
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by fishycomics View Post
Paint has been purchased 59 cents per container. Even sealer.
Fishy, that may be the answer for North. Maybe the sealer changes the colour to be more vibrant!!
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 03:48 PM
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continued on painting hte whole fuselage, less cowl.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9CZf...ature=youtu.be
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 06:08 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by Airhead600cc View Post
Hi North, sorry for the slight misdirect. Mine has dried like that as well. Did you say you're background is design? ACAD? How can we get more saturation ??
snip
Hi, bud...

No, my design work was mostly web and logos and alot of Photoshop image manipulation and Flash design and authoring... a bit of Illustrator here and there.

When working with regular pigments and inks (CMYK), like for print, you'll never have the vibrant colors you can reproduce with light (RGB), like for a screen (computer, tv, film etc.). You can see this demonstrated in something like Photoshop if you switch color modes of something you're working on in RGB to CMYK... your software will simulate on screen what that image will look like if you went to print with it... the first thing you'll notice is your more vibrant colors will take a hit... some, significantly. You'll also notice on your color palette swatches that the colors available for you to continue working in this mode (for reproducing with inks and pigments) are not as vibrant as when working in RGB

What's been happening when painting and color matching modded or touched up areas of my Champ...
Even when working with a mix of pure yellow, orange and white acrylic, I haven't been able to get an exact match to the stock Champ paint. Even if I get the exact lightness, not darker, not lighter, I can't get the same brightness (not lightness) or vibrancy or, basically, saturation. You can't get any more than what those pigments are going to give you. My painted areas dry slightly desaturated compared to the surrounding Champ color even when I match the correct lightness level and hue (proportions of yellow, orange and white). It's the same with the Folk Art 627 Tangerine which is nearly a dead ringer for my custom brew.

To verify what's happening, I opened one of my Champ photos in Photoshop that showed one of my patch touch ups... isolated my painted area... and began to increase the saturation... and got it to match bang on to the surrounding Champ paint (with a tiny bit of yellow added to make the hue exact, but that's beside the point).

So how can you get pigments and/or inks to have a more saturated or vibrant appearance... more like what you'd see on a screen in RGB?... fluorescent colors. Is there some fluorescence added to the stock Champ paint... I don't know?... but it looks to me like that's what it's going to take to match it. Like I've already mentioned, I have some fluorescent yellow and orange here somewhere but I can't find it... was even going to run down to the LHS to look at my account to verify I actually did buy some and that I'm not losing my mind

Another trick guys use to retain vibrancy or brightness in particular colors when painting Lexan car bodies and heli canopies is to put down a coat of white or silver first under your final color.
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Old Jul 07, 2012, 06:24 PM
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up to date.

wellwhen you get tired you know its time to stop. and dam the WIND stopped so yep no flying rain is a coming.

Here I show the champ mostly painted.

Yes I left the Orange and tape on, for reasons.

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Old Jul 07, 2012, 07:03 PM
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Here is hte update enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ykby0...ature=youtu.be
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 01:10 PM
TjW
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USA, CA, Riverside
Joined Mar 2006
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Originally Posted by jbarchuk View Post
Not unusual if there's enough airflow to freewheel the prop. After the plane stops the prop stops? If yes then all is OK.

Programmable ESCs have a 'brake' feature, used normally for cars. This is -not- a good feature for planes because you don't want anything to slow you down in flight.
Actually, a stopped prop has less drag than a windmilling prop. If the brake system doesn't apply to a driven motor, that might be a good feature to turn on.
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 02:22 PM
UMs & parkflyers... for now.
davidterrell80's Avatar
United States, VA, Herndon
Joined Apr 2012
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Originally Posted by TjW View Post
Actually, a stopped prop has less drag than a windmilling prop.
If I remember my aircraft performance classes aright, what you say above is true of a stopped and feathered prop versus an unfeathered windmilling prop (with engine at idle [0% throttle]).

My only turboprop experience was in the T-34C primary trainer in 1984. (I missed being a T-28 student by 3 weeks.) We had a "flight idle" setting of a few percent that allowed us to simulate the glide path of a feathered prop (clean was 12:1 I think?) without killing the engine. But the glide path with a windmilling, unfeathered prop was bad (3:1 -ish).

Accordingly, when I occasionally thermal my Champ, I do it with just a touch of throttle applied.

David
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 02:41 PM
TjW
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USA, CA, Riverside
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Feathering helps even more, of course, but a stopped unfeathered prop is still less drag than a windmilling prop. The stopped prop has drag proportional to its frontal area. The windmilling prop has drag proportional to its swept area.
As a gross example, consider a helicopter in autorotation vs a helicopter with a stopped rotor.
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Old Jul 08, 2012, 02:50 PM
Addict.
United States, NY, Binghamton
Joined Jul 2010
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Do you have a source on that? It doesn't make sense to me that moving would create more drag. Stopped it seems that air would build at the front of the prop generating more drag whereas moving it still allows air to flow toward the rear of the plane. I also think a moving prop would be more efficient as a stopped prop will create turbulence flowing over and under the fuselage where a moving prop will lessen this turbulence.
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