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Old Jul 03, 2012, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
There are two other motor alternatives that are direct bolt ins (with only plug swaps):

The Nine Eagles P-47/Spitfire motor

And the new Gemini 8.5mm motor from the $65 RTF planes. This motor has a plastic pinion and actually hauls these 45g pigs around pretty good.

Just need to finds where parts for the Gemini Planes are sold.


UNGN,

Interesting info. Looks like the Nine Eagles has a 9 tooth gear. Would it work in a UM T-28? I want to possibly do an upgrade on the motor and have read the SoloPro thread on what needs to be done to make it work but I don't have the tools or talent for it.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:13 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Hey "Pappy" did you receive the T-28 Trojan you just bought? It looked like a real nice buy. Good luck with her

Mike.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
Hey "Pappy" did you receive the T-28 Trojan you just bought? It looked like a real nice buy. Good luck with her

Mike.
I did. It's a great little plane. I had an issue with the motor surging and still am trying to figure out why. After asking around some have suggested it might be the motor dying so thus the above question. I'm not sure though as the surging hasn't happened since the other day when I took it out for a morning flight. It was getting hot out and I was on my second battery when it started. I'm beginning to think the brick was overheating and triggered the LVC but not 100% positive. Just planning ahead I guess Regardless, I really love the T-28 and will always keep one in the hanger to fly.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 10:05 AM
If it spins, wear it.
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Northern Nevada
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlacksheepVMF214 View Post
I did. It's a great little plane. I had an issue with the motor surging and still am trying to figure out why. After asking around some have suggested it might be the motor dying so thus the above question. I'm not sure though as the surging hasn't happened since the other day when I took it out for a morning flight. It was getting hot out and I was on my second battery when it started. I'm beginning to think the brick was overheating and triggered the LVC but not 100% positive. Just planning ahead I guess Regardless, I really love the T-28 and will always keep one in the hanger to fly.
For what it's worth, I had a motor surge on a mSR heli surge as it was on its way out. Similar size brushed motor.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 12:28 PM
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Southlake, TX
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlacksheepVMF214 View Post
UNGN,

Interesting info. Looks like the Nine Eagles has a 9 tooth gear. Would it work in a UM T-28? I want to possibly do an upgrade on the motor and have read the SoloPro thread on what needs to be done to make it work but I don't have the tools or talent for it.
They go right into the HH mounts with no mods. The motor can diameter is a tiny bit larger, but not enough that the mount needs to be enlarged.

The Gear mesh is identical.

The supplied gearbox is basically worthless, however. The shaft is unthreaded and a different diameter so the HH shafts are too sloppy in the bushing holes.
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UNGN View Post
They go right into the HH mounts with no mods. The motor can diameter is a tiny bit larger, but not enough that the mount needs to be enlarged.

The Gear mesh is identical.

The supplied gearbox is basically worthless, however. The shaft is unthreaded and a different diameter so the HH shafts are too sloppy in the bushing holes.
So in essence it's as simple as soldering on the HH plug and sliding it into the HH gearbox then. With shipping my guess is they would be a bit cheaper than the HH replacement motors but not by much so any performance data on the Nine Eagles motor? They any better than the HH ones?
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 05:53 PM
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There is two more options the NINE EAGLE BRAVO motor or the mSRx, they both need a pinion change and the BRAVO motor need a new connector. The BRAVO motor have a bit more power, than the pro motor, and the mSRx motor is the most powerfull and is 3 mm longer than the others.

John
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 09:57 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
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Originally Posted by johnkielsen View Post
There is two more options the NINE EAGLE BRAVO motor or the mSRx, they both need a pinion change and the BRAVO motor need a new connector. The BRAVO motor have a bit more power, than the pro motor, and the mSRx motor is the most powerfull and is 3 mm longer than the others.

John
But, since there is an entire thread on msrx premature motor failures, that one might not be such a good idea
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Old Jul 03, 2012, 11:06 PM
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
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So, I'm debating whether to buy the Carbon Cub floats and take them to my bench mount belt sander to reduce them to the proper size for the Champ or just buy the proper Champ ones from seaplanesupply.com. The advantage to the $20 CC floats is I can get them locally and have them right away and they come with the struts and mounting hardware (which I can easily modify for the Champ). The advantage with the other ($10 +$7.00 shipping to Canada) is they are already the right size and come in flat or V bottom but require you making your own mounting system (no big deal) and they might as well be coming from China if they're coming ground from the U.S.

I'm also reading that the flat bottom is the way to go for the Champ, that the v bottom is not necessary.

Thoughts?

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Old Jul 04, 2012, 12:22 AM
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*Excellent* reference/tutorial: http://www.seminolerc.com/float_flying_basics.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by north_of_49 View Post
so, i'm debating whether to buy the carbon cub floats and take them to my bench mount belt sander to reduce them to the proper size for the champ
Shortest answer: no. The main issue for the CC and seaplanessupply floats is weight. By itself Champ AUW is 1.5oz. I weighed one CC float in the LHS at 1oz.. Now granted you're talking about scaling it down but that's still going to at least double the AUW.

I don't see a weight for the seaplanessupply floats.

Regardless, the full on molded foam dtyle is a *ton* of weight. The only advantage is strength but see the ref below for another mfr and I promise it'll be just as strong.

Second issue is the belt sander thing. For the amount of *work* involved, trying to get the all the curves just right, and doing it twice so the match, it's simply not worth all the work.

See http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1514024 for float sets, with PDF plans to roll your own. By coincidence I just cut these out today (2mm Depron) and the foam by itself weight 0.2oz.. I'm guessing that the wire/carbon/spruce/CA will double that, but still less than 0.5oz, definitely less than half the modified CC or the seaplanesupply versions.

Yes it's a bunch of work but I'm more into scratchbuilding anyway.

He's got them for sale too fully assembled!! $25 (including shipping) may -seem- like a lot but given the -weight- advantage I think they're actually -cheap-. Caveat, the web page says none in stock so it will require email to see if he's still making them. Another caveat, if you can't find Depron locally it'll cost a ton to ship a standard large sheet. *BUT* if you can't find it locally I'm sure you can find someone in the For Sale area willing to mail a couple of 8.5x11 cut sheets for just a few $. (I'm lucky enough to have LHS with 30x48" sheets for $5. But they will NOT ship them because it costs a fortune at that size, and they're apparently not willing to put the labor into cutting them up.)

There's another DIY option in this thread at http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=4042 which looks 'simpler' and I will probably try that one too.

Another material option is 3mm material pulled out of 'foam board' which is commonly available at Staples and other office type stores. (There's a trick to dissolving the adhesive and pulling off the paper.) 50% heavier than 2mm but definitely cheap and a little added strength.

Quote:
I'm also reading that the flat bottom is the way to go for the champ, that the v bottom is not necessary.
Maybe true, and *definitely* easier to assemble (1 piece bottom vs 2 pieces with weird angles/chamfers to match up the bottom/sides.) After this first v-bottom set I'll try another with flat bottom.
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 12:32 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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@jbarchuk

I'll check that all out tomorrow... need to crash... thanks. Yeah I just came across a post that made me realize some of these are hollow... even for the micros... didn't realize that, thought they were all solid... in which case I would have been fine using the sander on the Cub floats... do that kind of stuff all the time, in fact, I shaped my Champ's most recent version bushwheels on it By the way, my bushwheels add about 8 grams to my Champ and it flies great, nice and stable... scale looking... still have level flight well under half throttle, I could probably easily double that... at least.

I won't buy or order in haste... will read through your post again tomorrow

EDIT:
am wondering if I could maybe split and hollow out the CC floats (after reducing their size). Name: hmm.gif
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 03:10 PM
Chris
Canada, NS, Queensland
Joined May 2012
173 Posts
[QUOTE=North_of_49;22069702
EDIT:
am wondering if I could maybe split and hollow out the CC floats (after reducing their size).[/QUOTE]

I think hollow is the way to go. I might say blow-moulded but that's too complicated. Do you know anyone who has a vacuum former for small scale objects? You make the half form or in this case two half forms for the halves of one float. Make it out of whatever you like that can take heat - balsa, basswood ?? The sheets of plastic they use can be clear or?? and I think they come in different thicknesses. Leave enough space to trim and figure how to glue the two halves together. Maybe a bead of some adhesive. Maybe leave a ridge on the top surface for mounting wires. Once you have the forms perfected you could retire off the money from this forum alone Hey, if you use this idea, I wanna couple sets!!
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Maidened my brand new Champ today! Dead calm at sunset, flew like a dream! My wife and kids got it for me for my birthday along with a 50 dollar HZ gift cert. I would like to get a bigger battery, and am looking for consice recommendations on batts avail at HZ. I have seen mentioned the 160, 240 (which I dont see at HZ) and a 500. I am looking for long, scale looking flights and not so much hotdogging and aerobatics.... ... And as a follow up quest... What other basic mods should i consider next with my 50 bucks? Id like to carry my onboard cam if poss...
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 09:19 PM
Chris
Canada, NS, Queensland
Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikeamondo View Post
Maidened my brand new Champ today! Dead calm at sunset, flew like a dream! My wife and kids got it for me for my birthday along with a 50 dollar HZ gift cert. I would like to get a bigger battery, and am looking for consice recommendations on batts avail at HZ. I have seen mentioned the 160, 240 (which I dont see at HZ) and a 500. I am looking for long, scale looking flights and not so much hotdogging and aerobatics.... ... And as a follow up quest... What other basic mods should i consider next with my 50 bucks? Id like to carry my onboard cam if poss...
Mike, great gift. I have the Ember, Champ, and T-28, plus a couple larger trainers. The Champ is a really nice plane. It looks like a toy to people looking on but it's not. I'd say I don't have a lot of experience but IF you like scale flying you don't really NEED to do a lot to the plane that's actually functional. Whoever set up this plane did a very good job, especially if you like scale flying. Some people here like the bush plane look and have added larger wheels ( mine are from my Super Cub ) which change the look, balance and landings on pavement but aren't really necessary. What I found that has made the biggest enjoyable experience for me is having enough batteries to keep flying like you wanted to do and the ease of charging them. Ten minutes of good scale flying is OK if you have a pocketful of batteries and changing them is 20 seconds. I am using the Nano-Tech 160 and they're fine. Are there better? Probably, but these are what's available locally and affordably ( 2.75 ) Mail order changes the pricing radically. You'll find that they don't come with the micro velcro attached to them - bummer - so I use a rubber band around the fuselage; hey it works! Once I bought the Celectra charger that does 4 batteries at a time my life changed . Coming in after 3 or 4 batteries and throwing them in the charger is really comfortable. Another thing for the future might be to look for a better radio. Most people describe the experience in terms of graininess which equates to pleasure and feel. I'd keep my eyes open for a deal (used?) for a DX6i, especially if your fleet grows. Oh, lastly, GLUE, clear tape, and lots of flying and soon you'll be having fun with a little wind that's very manageable. What people say here is that the time to bring her down is when you're full throttle and still losing ground. It's not relaxed, but different. Good luck and I'm sure the good folks here will have more to add
PS I have a camera on order. It's coming from China and I think it's being flown Air-Champ
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Old Jul 04, 2012, 10:09 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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I'll add to that... you can put some velcro (can get this stuff pretty much anywhere) on some heat shrink tubing to slip your batteries into (like a sleeve) to add batteries to your collection if you don't want a rubber band (which I have done, myself) around your nose

For a cheap non computerized 4 port 1S charger check out the THUNDER POWER TP103CQ-ACDC
... I still use this for my 1S lipos even though I have a computerized one and it can run off AC or 12v DC like a car or agm lead acid battery.

EDIT
Your Champ comes with extra adhesive backed velcro pieces too
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