Originally Posted by mutha

So now I have 2 Champs and am sitting looking at the UM p-51 motor and waiting for the 5043 prop to arrive in the mail! The first Champ has carried a Keychain Camera to nearly 200ft on several occasions and taught work colleagues how to fly who had never considered it before. All 3 of whom say they are buying their own Champs next week!

If you want a stronger motor, this topic might be interesting: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1326158

i use foam safe CA underneath the tabs of the GB, then use gorilla glue on top. this way, when the gorilla glue dries, it doesn't expand and tweak the angle of the gearbox(GB) as if it were underneath. i also use a little bit of silicon RTV to secure the new motor to the GB. this will absorb the vibration from the motor and help it from rattling out.

be sure to use a little bit of RTV or epoxy on the endbell of the motor since the wires are fragile.

Thanks everyone!!!

Originally Posted by UNGN

If the gearbox is in good and solid, the motor just twists out of the mount and you can twist in a new one.

The white glue is electronics safe silicone caulk. It's not ideal for use outside of a factory, because it takes 12 - 24 hours to dry.

If the gearbox is loose, a little low temp hot melt glue or 5 minute epoxy will hold it fast. If you pull the gearbox out, generally a lot of foam will come with it, requiring a large gap filling glue.

I went ahead and removed the GB prior to reading this ... damn! Not a lot of foam dislodged but will require filler. Silicone caulk -- knew I didn't know what it was. lol

Originally Posted by SoloPro

If you want a stronger motor, this topic might be interesting: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1326158

Fantastic ... thanks ... (but another 37 pages to read )

Originally Posted by SoupInMyCoupe

i use foam safe CA underneath the tabs of the GB, then use gorilla glue on top. this way, when the gorilla glue dries, it doesn't expand and tweak the angle of the gearbox(GB) as if it were underneath. i also use a little bit of silicon RTV to secure the new motor to the GB. this will absorb the vibration from the motor and help it from rattling out.

be sure to use a little bit of RTV or epoxy on the endbell of the motor since the wires are fragile.

It is just like being a kid again learning all this stuff about your toys! When you come from another planet like Australia; Gorilla Glue is another language, like grape gum and Houston Oilers! Is there a generic name for Gorilla glue?

Fantastic everyone thank you so much for the replies. Will post some pics and maybe a vid (when I figure out how to do that on here.)

Originally Posted by SoloPro

If you want a stronger motor, this topic might be interesting: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1326158

What are people doing about Champ motor replacements? Can you buy Champ motors? I see them offered with gearboxes, but not alone. Can they be ordered on the cheap from HK?

If I read the above link correctly, those SP motors @ $4 will fit the Champ but a Sukhoi pinion gear needs to be fitted to the shaft. I'm guessing we could fit a salvaged Champ pinion gear?

Or you can use a micro P51/T28 motor for a bit more power, maybe not as much power as one from that thread but a bit less work.

Dave

Originally Posted by CNY_Dave

Or you can use a micro P51/T28 motor for a bit more power, maybe not as much power as one from that thread but a bit less work.

Dave

I second that...you can find UM P-51 motors with gear box/motor mount all day on Ebay for under $15 shipped. Glue it in...plug it in...DONE. UM P-51 motor can be run well with stock prop, or you can turn your Champ into a monster with a GWS prop, like the 5043.

More than a bit less work, considering you need a gear puller that costs $$$.

For me...I'm all about ordering drop-in replacements.

the only reason i steer away from the p51 motors is because they're hit or miss. theyre great drop in motors. i figured i invest in some tools and use the SP and SX motors since they will (hopefully) last.

I don't require a gear puller to change pinions. I use a pair of pliers and a small flat screwdriver. You do have to be carefull though. Lee

[QUOTE=mutha;17184844...Is there a generic name for Gorilla glue?[/QUOTE]

Generic for Gorilla Glue is "polyurethane glue". I'm surprised G/Glue is not available in Oz. Seems to be ubiquitous. Anyway, there are many different manufacturers of polyurethane glue these days, Elmers for example.

Polyurethane glue is typically a thick, syrupy consistency, usually honey colored, sometimes white, and foams up as it cures. It is gap filling and will move stuff around as it cures if parts are not clamped or held immobile somehow during the cure. Curing is enhanced by dampening the glue surface prior to application. It forms a tough, durable bond that is difficult though not impossible to sand. Like all glues, it has its quirks that take getting used to. Contrary to advertising claims, it is not the best glue for everything under the sun but it does work very well for our foam repair projects. Apply sparingly, don’t get it on clothing (impossible to remove) and if it cures on your skin, it pretty much has to wear off.

Am looking out the window at the deep snow cover, contemplating the 2F temps with a breeze, the forcast lows tonight (20 to 40 below zero F) and thinking "Except for the possibility of being swept away in a flood, I wish I were in Australia right now." Think I'll go ice fishing instead.

LaneVT

Originally Posted by UNGN

Finished the Wing. The Flap Servo was too far from the brick to use an unmodified AS2000, so I put a connector on an HK 1.7g servo. They don't quite have the travel of an AS2000, but It works. If the Flaps work on the highest setting and feel like they need more, I'll put an AS2000 in there.

The 2g Aileron servo has a mild glitch in it. I guess I can't complain too much since the total cost of the 2 servos was < $7.

The build is going to go on hold unless the tail surfaces I ordered last year don't show up, soon.

Might stop by an LHS tomorrow to see if they have one.

Weight of modified wing + servos is 14.0g, compared to a stock wing of 10.3g, So I'm +4g from a stock Champ... and have added Ailerons and Flaps. Not too bad.

Wow that's looking awesome!

You had said that you striped the lower fuse with alcohol and fine sandpaper. How much of a PITA was that and how fine of sand paper?

Thanks

I cut a Canopy out of an AR6100 blister pack box and painted the inside. Weight is 1.77g, So my Upper fuselage is going to be about 2g heavier than a regular Champ... So I'm +6g.

I estimate it finish about +8g (and be 5 Channel).

Tails look to be back ordered to February 20th, so I'll finish up the details before I finish the plane. I usually fly it first, then finish the details.

Here are some pictures of hte progress:

could you please tell me more on how you made the cockpit? did you vacume form it or cut and glue it?

They are now restocked. For under 10 bucks with free shipping, a good deal. I was in the air at WOT for a good 40 minutes today...still haven't found the bottom of this battery.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tenergy-3-7v-1-c...item43a4adde4a

Also...UNGN...I too would like to know how big a ITA stripping the orange is.

Originally Posted by monboy10

could you please tell me more on how you made the cockpit? did you vacume form it or cut and glue it?

It's cut and glued from a flat pattern, then I hand painted the white with acrylic, inside the canopy, then traced around the paint with marker.

UNGN, I love your AG Champ. Is it pretty much a agculture champ?