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Old Dec 13, 2010, 03:28 PM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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This is a slightly smaller plane, so it requires either shorter moment or smaller tails to get the same tail volume. The explanation was that the handling might be negatively affected by leaving the long tail and shrinking the area to achieve the same TVC number.

If I cut the tail boom down that means I can cut a little off the nose too, and use the wing cutout as it is molded rather than moving the wing back by about 1 1/2" like on the other planes. I also cast lead in the nose plug when I joined the halves, so that will gain me another inch or so in the noseweight position. An added benefit, quantity unknown, is that I will be losing quite a few square inches of otherwise useless wetted area on the fuse. All this should add up to a cleaner and faster plane.

Just for you, Paul.
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 01:20 AM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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Got the spars cut, glued, and filled. Cut the center permanent joiner stub to size. I'll probably be going back to Supra style aileron and flap hinges. The wiper method on bagged wings is a bit difficult and results in a weakened part where the foam is cut out. Next step is to bag a flat sheet of glass for the aileron facing and start cutting out the hinges. I made wood guides while the saw is still available.
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 09:14 PM
yyz
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USA, CA, Paso Robles
Joined Dec 2004
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That spar sure came out nice, Greg. The smaller diameter Graphlite appears to give you more options, compared with the ~ 1/8", for narrowing the spar caps as you move towards the tips.

Can't wait to see this fly,

Mike
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 11:35 PM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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Me too. I got 2 weeks+ of 12-14 hour days if I want them. Lots of work left.

Also taking on a set of bagged F3B wings to go with a fuse I just picked up, and a new DLG to pass the time waiting for glue to dry.
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 01:38 AM
Master of the Wind
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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Well you can put a wiper on a bagged surface. Not sure it is worth the work, and you have to reinforce the skin quite a bit after hogging out the foam, but in the end it came out pretty good. Fin is now glued on with a fillet of chopped carbon and epoxy followed by 2 layers of 3 oz glass and Superfil. Bottom is glued to the floor with a slot for the elevator servo wire just like the last one. No stub fin like the last planes since we cut the tail shorter. The fin was aligned with a stick taped over the wing saddle. Final adjustment can be made by grinding on the wing saddle once we have a center section.

Started fitting up the poly joint. Going down to 1/8" ply ribs since the wrapped spar takes all the load and the ply is just for hanger rash. Laid up a sheet of 3x1.6 glass for the facing. The Supra plans called for 2 oz so I upped it to be safe. Bagged between 2 pieces of mylar it came out surprisingly thin.
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 10:44 AM
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United States, CO, Denver
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That's a beautiful looking wiper.
What did you use for material ?
How did you attach it to the rudder ?
I've seen wipers that didn't work at the amount of deflection that you're showing so I don't know what "standard procedure" is.
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Old Dec 20, 2010, 12:48 PM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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The same superfil I use on everything now. I taped some waxed 2 mil plastic to the rudder, filled the corner, and bent the rudder back to get the right curve on the plastic. There was a bit of sculpture on the wiper afterwards to fit it in the pocket.
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Old Dec 22, 2010, 10:18 AM
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Thanks,
I guess we'll see how much of a success you consider it when you're ailerons either do or don't wear a wiper.
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Old Dec 23, 2010, 01:23 AM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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A few 10 hour days later and the tips are in the bag. Layup is 2.4 carbon bias, 2.4 carbon doubler for inner third 0-90, 1.6 skin bias, 1.6 facing on aileron hinge, 1.7 kevlar hinge, and 3 oz crowfoot glass LE. The aileron facing was upped from 2 oz to 3x1.6 and feels pretty good. The scheme is taken directly off the Supra plans. It's a very long aileron and goes all the way to the tip, so I am a bit nervous about the stiffness, but I can always cut it short later if needed. Next is to work on the center section angles so we can get it in the bag in one piece.

Building one of these makes you appreciate the value of a molded plane that while seemingly expensive is actually a bargain if it only needs to be assembled.
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 07:11 PM
Master of the Wind
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United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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Got the center section in the bag. The table was sawed in half and blocked up using aluminum channel and tiles. The table and braces were glued to the base using hot glue so we could work on it without it moving. The dihedral hinge was also glued with hot glue.

The layup is 1.6 glass 0-90 followed by 5.7 carbon bias, overlapped through the center section about halfway to the tip, with the cut at 45 degrees and the long side on the leading edge. Flaps were faced with 3x1.6 precured glass followed by 1.6 glass wrap and 1.7 kevlar hinge.

Bagging was relatively uneventful as the center angle is only 4 degrees. The mylars were trimmed to the cores and taped together with electrical tape on the outside. The cloth went over the joint without any problems. There will be a small epoxy ridge which on the bottom is hidden and on the top is covered mostly by fairings. The cloth was rolled out hard with paper towels then a small line of epoxy was added where the TE meets.

Tips are in the hot box. I get the parts back some time next week. Plenty of other things to work on in the meantime.
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 09:48 PM
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Congratulations on successfully doing the bagged dihedral trick. You have proof that it's not just an urban legend.
Did you wet put the bottom fabric (top in the picture) on the core or did you wet it out on the mylars and then flip them together ?
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Old Dec 24, 2010, 10:51 PM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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We bagged this pretty much like any other wing. Lay out the first cloth dry and start rolling, follow with the other layers dry and roll out. Smash roll with a paper towel and then place the core. The angle in the middle in this case in not enough to interfere with how the cloth drapes. I've actually done 90 inch parts this way with more angle. That takes a bit more care in the center but the method is the same.
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Old Dec 26, 2010, 10:06 AM
Chuck it and see!
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Great work
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Old Dec 26, 2010, 11:01 AM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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I knew I forgot something, the wing hold down block. Have to route from the bottom, inset it, and backfill with epoxy and chopped fiber then filler.
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Old Dec 29, 2010, 01:23 AM
Master of the Wind
G Norsworthy's Avatar
United States, CA, San Jose
Joined Sep 2008
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Elevator, fitup

The tails work pretty much as drawn. Had to hollow out the top of the fin a bit and also relieve the stab where the wire will go up into it. The fin skin will retain the wire in the horn. Plenty of travel both directions. The Airtronics 94820 fits in the base of the fin but the horn would have stuck out so I traded it for a 761. Drilled the hole through the fin with a drill bit stuck on the end of a brass tube. Pushrod is the same as on #8, threaded rod with metal clevis on the bottom and 90 degree bend on the top with a carbon tube in between. Direct and super stiff.

Got the wings out of the bag and they look really nice. Not quite Samba but pretty good for bagged. The center is super stiff, 40 oz before trim. The tips are stiff at the joint and get a little flexy out where the spar disappears.
The ailerons feel torsionally stiff, at least before cutting. The plan is to finish the fitup and alignment before cutting the surfaces out so that there is no question about the incidence. Anything to minimize filing the pins after the maiden. Next step is to add the missing ply block to the center section and then align to the fuse and tail.
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