If you build one, keep in mind that the only thing I kept from the original plans is the outline. Everything else is changed.

The door is simply cut out. The bottom of the fuse is curved there, so the door itself is curved but the hinge is tape only on the back half. There are 1/4" sq front and rear. The front one rubs against the side of the gear leg as it drops, pushing it all the way open. There is a short piece of string CA'd to the inside fuse about the height of the retracted leg, and to the door at the bottom (when open) edge. As the leg retracts, it contacts the string and pulls the door closed. Super simple! (Things work best that way).

The main doors will simply be attached directly to the legs. Attached are some stills.

A video of them operating is here: http://www.montanadesign.com/planes/...e/dscf7903.avi

The tape was just something we did real quick at the field. The concept works great, I just need to clean it up a little.

Andy

Wow. Very cool. I'm not familiar with the Shrike 400. Is that similar to the old small glow version? I'd love to build another.

Sadly this one of mine was stolen only a couple days after this picture was taken. I had finished it up and was ready for maiden and was stolen from my garage with pretty much all of my RC equipment about 10 years ago.

Your's is really pretty too. It should have been easily visible!

The 400 was a 24" span version. It was sized for .049 but a lot of guys flew .10's or .15's on them. Mine had a Mega 16/15/4 and with either 6x4 and 7x5 APC on 3S it hauled the mail! Flying Models published the plans (CD-044) and it was a Lanier kit. The kit version was prettier than the plans.

Go ahead and get yourself some plans and build another! It's a pretty quick build.

Andy

So did you re-size everything in the plans or just the outline?

Just curious as a scratch builder if it is a complete plan one could be built from. And of course, of you would share

I measured outside dimensions on the paper with a ruler, then put them into the CAD package. I only used the outlines and the hinge lines. I then used Profili Pro 2 to create the wing panels and ribs (NACA 0015 airfoil). The fuselage side view started as the same airfoil, then was adjusted in thickness to fit the equipment I wanted to install. I never actually drew the formers - they are just rectangles with recessed areas for the 1/32" ply doubler, and with the corners knocked off and sanded to fit snugly against the 1/2" triangle stock in the corners. There's only 3 (firewall, in front of fore spar, and against the TE).

It is an almost-complete plan, and obviously adequate for somebody to build from. As for sharing, I haven't decided what I plan to do yet. Like dozens of my other designs, probably nothing will be done. I am happy to have unique airplanes

You could always buy the plan CD-044 from www.FlyingModels.com (you may have to send an e-mail to Lynn to get it), have Staples/Kinkos scale it to 144% (I think that's the number), and build from that.

I believe that the original designer (Joe Beshar) just published an EDF version in Model Airplane News recently. That would be another place to look.

Andy

Originally Posted by AndyKunz

I measured outside dimensions on the paper with a ruler, then put them into the CAD package. I only used the outlines and the hinge lines. I then used Profili Pro 2 to create the wing panels and ribs (NACA 0015 airfoil). The fuselage side view started as the same airfoil, then was adjusted in thickness to fit the equipment I wanted to install. I never actually drew the formers - they are just rectangles with recessed areas for the 1/32" ply doubler, and with the corners knocked off and sanded to fit snugly against the 1/2" triangle stock in the corners. There's only 3 (firewall, in front of fore spar, and against the TE).

It is an almost-complete plan, and obviously adequate for somebody to build from. As for sharing, I haven't decided what I plan to do yet. Like dozens of my other designs, probably nothing will be done. I am happy to have unique airplanes

You could always buy the plan CD-044 from www.FlyingModels.com (you may have to send an e-mail to Lynn to get it), have Staples/Kinkos scale it to 144% (I think that's the number), and build from that.

I believe that the original designer (Joe Beshar) just published an EDF version in Model Airplane News recently. That would be another place to look.

Andy

Here's a link to the article about the ducted fan version that's called "Strike".
IMHO it's not the looker the Shrike is.

http://media.radiocontrolzone.com/ma.../TheStrike.pdf

I have an EDF project in the works too, and it's definitely more of a looker than the Strike.

Anybody remember the Tommycat that Bob Kress did for his RK-20 unit?

Andy

Originally Posted by AndyKunz

I have an EDF project in the works too, and it's definitely more of a looker than the Strike.

Anybody remember the Tommycat that Bob Kress did for his RK-20 unit?

Andy

I remember the Tommycat and the Kress line of ducted fans.

On the topic of the Shrike, have you seen this larger version? All I've ever been able to find of the model is that single photo.

Except for the White Electrician version, from the various original plans I have in my collection all he ever did was basically scale the dimensions linearly. If you have the plans for a smaller one, just take them to Staples and scale them up. You might have to add ribs, but the basic structure would be the same.

I've seen that on links tying it to the 40-size (43"), although it looks larger to me (.60?) I gave up fuel flying a few years ago, otherwise it would be real tempting to build a big one. I just couldn't afford to feed it electrons at that size!

Maybe somebody could identify the engine, or just ask Joe (go back a year or two and his contact info is in Model Aviation).

Andy

Personally I would love to get one around 43". Looks like a great conversion. Tempting but my build list is soooo long already.

One thing I have found with scaling up plans is there needs to be a bit of redrawing on wood sometimes. Usually not too much of an issue though, just use smaller sticks and center them in the drawing.

There are plans and templates for the 43" one for sale on ebay if you search for "lanier shrike" (no quotes). Sometimes you get lucky and find a kit (I did).

Andy

There's a kit on e bay from the same guy I bought it from (therocketman). Just search that site for "Lanier Shrike" (no quotes) and it should pop up. The item number is 350367034865 in case that helps you any. It's the 35" version (10-15), same size as I just described building in this thread.

I hope to get some more flying in this weekend. My son will be home from college and we both need a little stick time.

Andy

I finally got some time to finish up the Shrike retracts. The main doors are added, and the nose door hinge now uses Robart Hinge Points (the micro size). In the attached photos you can see the following details:

The covers have the same pattern as the checkerboard bottom. This was put on while doing the original covering, aligning the pattern so that when the doors were closed, the checkers would line up perfectly.

The nose door hinge points are located pretty far away from one another so as to provide more strength and stability while the doors are open during takeoff and landing (it is not a slow speed plane!). The center of the hinge point is about 1/16" outside the airplane, and extends into the fuselage in the wood block that was already there. They go in at about a 30 degree angle from vertical because the other side is angled down into the door. They are also epoxied into place and then trimmed off. Care had to be taken so that the moving leg wouldn't snag on the hinge point during operation.

The main doors are kept aligned by two U-shaped 1/8" ply brackets which are epoxied into place. The distance off the leg is set by appropriate layers of servo tape before gluing. Epoxy is applied, tape holds them in position, and then the door is closed and the tape tautened so that the U-brackets are tight against the door. Note that you need to remove the covering before epoxying into place.

Finally, the servo tape stays in place even after we're done. It is what actually keeps the door from moving up and down on the leg.

I've been getting more time on this plane, and I'm really starting to love flying it! It's very quiet because of the low drag, and very jet-like in performance. I just built up some 4S packs (I've been flying on 3S, about 75-80 MPH) this weekend and hope to get it out soon with the extra power.

Next one will be 40-sized (43")!

Andy

Awsome build dude...Jim H

Forty size on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/LANIER-R-C-SHRIK...item5193b50908