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Old Feb 07, 2013, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ir3 View Post
Hi Jan,

I bit the bullet and made the cutout to lower the TMAX V2. Not the best work but functional.

Cheers,

Iran
Hi Iran,

Looks good, nice clean solution

Jan,
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 08:50 AM
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The Netherlands, FR
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Originally Posted by crowman17 View Post
Looks Great Jan!

Marc
Hi Marc,

I can tell you that this build is something completely differed than the build of the Gato (Flying Fish USS 229) I have done

And she is still there and sealing.

Jan,
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Old Feb 07, 2013, 05:58 PM
ir3
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Joined Dec 2007
264 Posts
Engel Gato

Hi Jan,

The Engel Gato looks great. The Engel WAS going to be my next sub but now I am not so sure.

Before you do all of the wiring and servo cables I would advise opening the slots in the bulkheads for the wiring that goes forward. Also, you will need a lot of servo extension leads. Try to get them in 26 gauge. It will handle the current quite well and makes it easier to run the wires. I had a bunch of extensions in the larger wire size and could not run them all through the openings provided. I manufactured my own extension to get the length very close. There is not enough room for extensions that are too long.


Just a heads up,

Cheers,

Iran
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Old Feb 08, 2013, 11:49 AM
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Hi Iran,

Thanks for the heads up regarding the wiring, I will adjust that.

Jan,
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 05:09 AM
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The Netherlands, FR
Joined Aug 2008
590 Posts
20 MM AA gun and periscope standard

Hello all,

I started with collecting the items and start sanding and grinding them.



The wheel who's controlling the elevating of the gun itself was a little tricky because you are supposed to mount a 0.5mm tread into the wheel to make a handle.

I have ad a matches for an impression of the size off the parts,



But with a little drill, CA and micro-balloons it go's very well,



And this the gun,



This the other side,



And sitting on the conning tower deck,



Its a nice gun but very fragile so when going at the road and running here into the deep I must be careful, and this one is protected by the stanchions around the conning tower deck.

But the deck gun is the most unprotected part of the Sub and very detailed.

But first the periscope standard with the compass and periscope head protector,

The shape Engel tell me to bend the head projector are not shale for the Sub I want to build the shape |I need are a triangle shape and I was not happy with how I made the U bend shape it was crap



Now it has a other more streamlined shape,



And its bend upwards so its protecting the head of the periscope standard when the Sub is entering and cutting a torpedo net.



After done this I started to glue on the arms that holds the compass,



They made from resin and are easy to break.

So take at easy with this one,



But it looks nice,

Here the empty head of the periscope standard and in front the open Tower hatch,



Here you see the Head and the arm that holds and locked the tower hatch when its in the open position,



Now you see the parts attached and the hatch closed, I'm not sure what I will do with the hatch if I make here movable or not.



Its looks nice now and I'm happy with the results so far.





Now you see the parts attached and the hatch closed, I'm not sure what I will do with the hatch if I make here movable or not.



Its looks nice now and I'm happy with the results so far.





Next time the spray deflector and the main Gun,

Regards,

Jan,
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 02:39 AM
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The Netherlands, FR
Joined Aug 2008
590 Posts
Spray deflector conning tower and Deck gun

Hi all,

As promised I have ad the spray deflector on the conning tower and its not hard to do when you use little strokes of duck tape and after secure the resin spray deflector that way, then glue it with CA and if needed some micro balloons.



And it looks nice.



Now some details inside the conning tower navigation lights etc.
However I will do that later when the painting job becomes in sight.

Now the assembly of the Deck gun,

First collect all the parts and sand them to shape,



And the assembly of the parts starts,



The support frame,



The Gun itself,



The little parts are a bit creepy to handle but its fun to do.

The Gun and support,



The Gun assembled,





The frames that are attached to the Gunners positions are a lot of tiny work but they looks nice,



It looks great but its so fragile I don't give it much hope when sailing in the water..Better to remove it before you put it into the water and use it only as static display but thats not my intention yet..

Kind regards from a cold Holland,

Jan,
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Old Feb 12, 2013, 12:41 PM
ir3
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264 Posts
Engel Type VIIC Conning Tower Workl

Hi Jan,

As usual, very fine work on the conning tower components. I got as far as installing the compass when I found out that the curved arms supporting the compass were not formed properly and now I will either leave it off or have to make up some new parts to mount it.

The deck gun is quite fragile and one wonders as to why so detailed a kit. No doubt it will get damaged while under way or just man handling.

Keep the updates coming,

Iran
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 01:17 AM
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Thanks Iran for your compliments,

The Gun is really fragile and only from standing static and moving around its damaged already and the Sub is still far away from the first water test.

Jan,
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 01:49 AM
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The Netherlands, FR
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Stern Dive rudders assembly

Back to the stern,

I started to repair the dive rudder supports, witch I has brutally dissembled from the shaft bearings support frames,

As you can see here,



First I put in the rudder horn into the keel, then I put the rudder shaft trough the keel and mount the other dive rudder plane.



Then I bend and adjust the rudder support till it fitted without creating any force on the rudder.



And start soldering it after I made sure nothing will move because I need both free hands for this job,

I use a gas soldering unit for this one, because it works fast and bring on a lot of heat in a short time,



The result of the soldering job,



I used wet toilet paper to cool the surrounding area for the heat DIRECT AFTER I finished the soldering job,

Then I turned the aft Hull upside down and mounted the other dive rudder support what was easily done because that one was undamaged by my earlier action some time ago.



I need some more heat for it starts to flow but it go's well,



It only needs some grinding and sanding to make it smooth.



Its starts to look nice now,





If you look carefully you see a hole in the aft of the keel.



I done that to be able to secure the M2 headless bolt at the rudder horn inside the keel.
You see the Ellen-key inserted for clarity.



I was not that happy with the solution Engel suggested to make the steering,
gear for the aft dive planes and rudder,

Engel want you to glue a bulkhead into the free flood room to make two fixed points to mount the steering cables,



And that you use a second lever to bring the linkage 2 inch lower for steering the dive planes,



In my opinion it only gives more play and a possible sloppy reaction at the dive-planes,

And I do not know how big your hands are, but my hand will not pass this extra bulkhead to maintain/replace by example the seal's from the main shafts

So I had to come up with a solution because to let my hands modified in a hospital so I get some more pivot points in my fingers don't attract me much

I came up with the following,

First I soldered a M2 bolling at the dive-plane lever,



And mounted back into the stern what are a Job to



Now I can mount the cable directly to the dive-plane lever in a little angle without binding the movement,

I do not mount the bulky bulk head and also not the second lever to overcome the 2 inch hight difference, I intent to go directly from the aft bulkhead to the dive-plane horn/lever.

Engel has a great solution to connect the steering cable on the aft bulkhead and they suggest to use just a piece of silicone fuel tube you put on the cable and the tube coming out of the aft bulk head.

Here you see the bits and pieces to make the watertight transition from the steering cable to the free flood room.



At 1 end you mount the rubbers and at the other end the steering cable outside with the silicon tube and on this brass tubes will be attached a frame to give this tubes a fixed point in the free flood room but in this case a much smaller one then the bulky one by the stock kit..



Assembled it looks like this,



When attached in the stern you can see that the steering cable are at a angle but I think it will not harm the dive function at all and theres no sloppy feeling ether



I have found a way to get the cables fixed but that will come soon.


I have the linkage up and running now in the aft section of the hull, and it has now much more room to work in

I have also a other link attached at the dive-plane linkage, The link I use are intend to glue or clamp it to the inner cable coming from the WTC, however doing this you are not able anymore to maintain/dismantle your inner cable because its stuck on each end of the cable.

So I took the 2mm inner link and put it in a vice and grind a little hole in it,



Then I use a wheel collar and soldered it over the link with the hole lined up with the hole in the wheel collar.



Now I'm able to get the link dismounted from the inner cable and I have more room to adjust the dive-planes also.

You see already the ABS mounts holding the steering outer cable.



After testing the stroke of the dive-plane I find out that I was not able to make a negative angle greater than 6a7 degree (diving)

So I need tho shorten the dive plane linkage shown here,



I have now attached the same bolling but now at the spot of the first hole from the pivot point. And now its OK,



And up its more than enough,



The two steering cables are now firm attached inside the stern and there's a lot of room left,





The only thing I still need to do is to fill the rubber bellows with Vaseline grease, to protect the rubber and to make it watertight.

But now its time to go further with the WTC because I have plans with the battery compartment

Regards,

Jan,
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 12:00 PM
alligator
Venice Fl.
Joined Jul 2004
109 Posts
Hello Jan,
It has been a while since I've been on the RCGROUPS web-site, but I see you are still going on with the build of the Engel U-boat.
Your work is looking very good as always, and the building of the model looks like you are getting into the final stages.
I noticed you had configured your own means of connecting the steering linkage. What you have come up with is very similar to a connector offered here in the states and which I have found to work well on my model.
Here is a link to the company and products they offer, which may be purchased over the internet and at a variety of hobby sites as well eg. (e-bay, and Amazon.com)

http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm

Looking forward to the day you take the boat to the pond.
Best Regards,
Al,
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 12:11 PM
ir3
Registered User
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Dec 2007
264 Posts
Stern Planes and Rudders Control

Hi Jan,

Once again, great implementation of the stern planes and rudders installation. I struggled with Engels method using the bulkhead supplied and it causes such an extreme curve in the push rods the the servos have to work extra hard to move the planes and rudder. I will be switching to the technique you are using.

Cheers,

Iran
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 12:48 PM
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Western , Pennsylvania
Joined Feb 2009
376 Posts
Boy everything looks great Jan! I'm still cutting holes in the deck probally half way there!
You are inspiring me to work harder at it.

Marc
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Old Feb 13, 2013, 02:44 PM
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BUCURESTI
Joined Feb 2009
191 Posts
@Horseman ,

HI,
Where did You get and what is the name of these items marked by me in picture:
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 01:33 AM
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The Netherlands, FR
Joined Aug 2008
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Originally Posted by profesorul View Post
@Horseman ,

HI,
Where did You get and what is the name of these items marked by me in picture:
Hi,

All of the above bowden cables where included with the Kit.
But they are also used in light model airplanes.
The inner cable is 2mm and the outer are 3mm

Jan,
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 01:42 AM
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The Netherlands, FR
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alligator View Post
Hello Jan,
It has been a while since I've been on the RCGROUPS web-site, but I see you are still going on with the build of the Engel U-boat.
Your work is looking very good as always, and the building of the model looks like you are getting into the final stages.
I noticed you had configured your own means of connecting the steering linkage. What you have come up with is very similar to a connector offered here in the states and which I have found to work well on my model.
Here is a link to the company and products they offer, which may be purchased over the internet and at a variety of hobby sites as well eg. (e-bay, and Amazon.com)

http://www.sullivanproducts.com/ContSysAccMainFrame.htm

Looking forward to the day you take the boat to the pond.
Best Regards,
Al,

Hi Al,

Thats a indeed a long time ago, good to hear from you

Sullivan are a great player about this stuff and indeed great products.
But I made them myself because its cheaper, and the parts where available on my workbench

Keep well,

Jan,
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