|Nov 06, 2010, 12:25 PM|
Joined Feb 2010
|Nov 08, 2010, 10:33 AM|
Joined Apr 2008
Nex picture of my Type VII is one of 21 ships, I producing hulls. This one is tug Braveheart.I am doing hulls as my hobby, if anybody want them, it is not problem. Braveheart is 90 cm-3 ft long. Big beauty, with two Schottel drive units. Excellent for Tug Towing competitions.
|Jan 28, 2013, 06:55 AM|
Its a long time ago that I have post here but I'm a lot further now so I try to catch up the gap
I thought that I was ready with the vent holes but the keel in the aft hull has them also
So I begin with that and I made the large opening in the hull to connect the keel in.
The aliment of the welding s and the keel where not the same so I need to adjust the place off the keel a bit.
And now nobody will see it any-more ..
The rudder and shafts .
I started with the aft dive plane support after I drill all the vent and flood holes in the resin keel.
The rudder support is made of 1mm brass and its from the factory hard soldered pre-mounted, how ever not done very accurate and also poor welding s to
So when I take a good look then I noticed that the screw bearing supports where not aliment proper, and when its hard soldered its a bit of a problem however the welding where poor so I was able to break the two supports off the screw bearing easily.
Here you see the dive rudder support with the bearings supports dismantled.
Here I'm holding one in place,
And now its much easier to line up the keel and rudder support with the dive rudders.
Here you have the prefabricated dive planes from the kit,
They are perfect.
Then I insert the resin keel into the aft hull and slide in the dive rudder and after that I put on the keel the dive plane and screw support,
Nothing is glued in this stage because the main shafts must be connected also, and because of that reason you must be able to twist or bend the support a bit.
However you need to glue the keel and the brass support on the keel to get a firm base to work from.
After the shafts are insert into the bearing s and all runs okay then you can glue the bearing supports in the hull and solder these in the bearings,
Here some photo's off the assemble complete but not glued and it looks nice already.
So the first thing to do now is get the aft bulkhead in the hull and connect the shafts to the main engines shafts to get the shaft bearings running smooth.
Will be continued,
|Jan 28, 2013, 07:01 AM|
WTC Tube inside the Hull
|Jan 29, 2013, 03:21 AM|
The aft Hull
|Jan 31, 2013, 05:00 AM|
Then I connect also the tube on the vent pipe inside the aft bulkhead because it will be hard to connect that one later on.
Now its time to sand the glue areas with grit 60 sandpaper and clean it with white spirit.
Then I connect the hulls together, have check them on straitness with the ruler,
Fix and secure the hulls with Tape (Duck-tape) so they don't move any more,
And glue it at 4 to 6 spots with 25 hour epoxy glue and let it cure, after curing you can set the complete hull on his nose and start gluing the rest, but I want to see it first if all went well after curing of the tack glue.
Note: here you can also see the vent tube as mentioned earlier,
After drying of the glue I noticed a problem, when I straighten the two hulls with each other, one side opened.
This side is beautiful,
But this side wend wrong
I have checked the hulls and they where okay, they looks really nice so I missed this completely that night...
But I glued the aft hull a bit (1mm) further than the aft bulkhead so I give myself a bit playing ground to correct this kind of mishaps. (I know myself)
So I took a piece of sandpaper and put it between the closed halves of the hulls and start twisting the aft hull against the sanding paper what I hold firmly still to the front hull.
And start sanding the high sides and look carefully if the hull is closing completely.
And it works,
It start to look a lot better,
And the "old" bad side,
Will be back,
|Jan 31, 2013, 09:45 PM|
United States, CA, Los Angeles
Joined Dec 2007
Fit Of Tail Section
The fit of the aft section of the hull appears to be going quite well for you. On mine, I have to deal with an aft section and main hull that do not match up in size, about 1+ mm difference in height.
I am currently building the conning tower details and I came across a part with the part number V 39.3. It is one of the railings for the conning tower. I can not find any reference in the build manual as to how to make this part. I think it might come pre built from Engel but I am not sure. Could you check your brass wire parts and see if you have a pre made V 39.3?
Thanks and keep up the great work,
|Feb 01, 2013, 02:31 AM|
The rudder and bearing support frame
First I slide the shaft covers over the shafts then I put the keel in his place in the aft hull and slide the rudder and bearing support frame over the shafts and start bending the frame till it slides nicely over the shafts and start gluing the complete set-up.
I hold the frame with a clamp at its place and let it cure for a night.
Here you see the shaft covers hanging on the shafts,
Bit a brute clamp but it works,
Then after the glue cures it was time to align the shafts with the bearings in the support frame,
I put on the screws and discover that they hit the Hull, so I need to bend the frame outwards to get the blades free from the hull.
After done that I connect the two motors inside the techrek,
And put 5 volt at one side at the time and start bending and turning the frame at such way I obtain the maximum rotations per minute with the lowest current,
After a wile I was able to let both shafts running with 5volts and 1.1 amp current at slow speed.
I measure 1.4 amp with 12 volts on both motors free spinning but it makes not many noise because it is a belt drive gear what's works very nice.
Here you can see the volts and current on my home build power supply.
I glued in the frames thats holds the shaft bearing's
First I glued the frames inside the aft hull and when it was cured it soft solder the brass strips into the shafts bearings holders.
And the solder job, it takes some time because I have not a very powerful solder iron but it works.
Need some grinding and sanding but its a steady base now.
Then normally when connecting a screw on a threaded shaft you use a lock nut to secure the screw (common practice in hobby land) but its a bit rude..
So I drilled a 2,5mm hole into the crews threaded it with M3 and uses RVS headless bolts to secure the crews.
Its nice and almost invisible.
Then I inserts the bearings for the aft rudders with CA glue, its was not hard to do because Engel did a beautiful job here, if you set the keel okay the rest will follow.
And when you inserts the rudders they are horizontal with the shafts.
The back dive rudders,
After done that I glued the two shaft coffers in place.
|Feb 01, 2013, 07:28 AM|
Joined Nov 2012
Its a long time ago that I have posted here...3 years isn't long around here. Does someone not make a PE deck to save you all that cutting?
|Feb 01, 2013, 09:47 AM|
|Feb 02, 2013, 06:45 AM|
The periscopes standards are great and only need to sand the joints caused by the making progress of the resin parts.
Then I encounter something funny, the part in the middle of the inside plating are very flexible, kind off jelly but resin like material,
This the part I mention,
And it can do this,
And also this,
I put the parts dry together to check if all are alright.
And it fits well at most points.
The SB side needs some real attention but for the most its fits really nice.
I'm intend to do the gluing with CA and 1 hour epoxy glue.
The flexible middle part will help a great deal to make the joint between the SB and BB inside plating easier.
|Feb 02, 2013, 09:51 AM|
Really fantastic build. Your photography is clear and very helpful. I like the tips that you offer and your English is fine! Thank you for doing this work in progress.
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