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Old Nov 06, 2010, 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DDG 51 View Post
Hi, I am happy, when I can explain how to do something faster. My Type VII is ready for sea trail, but now I am again at work 2500 km from my house and for 5 weeks. Weather will be bad in december, for sub balancing.Next year I will be with Type VII in Neulengbach sub meeting in Austria
Very nice job on your U-boat! It looks great!
best wishes,
jeff
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Old Nov 07, 2010, 08:09 AM
i think i need a bigger boat
its cold up here
Joined Jan 2005
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a very nice job you do.
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Old Nov 08, 2010, 10:33 AM
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EUrope
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Nex picture of my Type VII is one of 21 ships, I producing hulls. This one is tug Braveheart.I am doing hulls as my hobby, if anybody want them, it is not problem. Braveheart is 90 cm-3 ft long. Big beauty, with two Schottel drive units. Excellent for Tug Towing competitions.
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 06:55 AM
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Joined Aug 2008
617 Posts
Hello all,

Its a long time ago that I have post here but I'm a lot further now so I try to catch up the gap

I thought that I was ready with the vent holes but the keel in the aft hull has them also



So I begin with that and I made the large opening in the hull to connect the keel in.
The aliment of the welding s and the keel where not the same so I need to adjust the place off the keel a bit.



And now nobody will see it any-more ..

The rudder and shafts .

I started with the aft dive plane support after I drill all the vent and flood holes in the resin keel.

The rudder support is made of 1mm brass and its from the factory hard soldered pre-mounted, how ever not done very accurate and also poor welding s to
So when I take a good look then I noticed that the screw bearing supports where not aliment proper, and when its hard soldered its a bit of a problem however the welding where poor so I was able to break the two supports off the screw bearing easily.

Here you see the dive rudder support with the bearings supports dismantled.



Here I'm holding one in place,



And now its much easier to line up the keel and rudder support with the dive rudders.


Here you have the prefabricated dive planes from the kit,



They are perfect.

Then I insert the resin keel into the aft hull and slide in the dive rudder and after that I put on the keel the dive plane and screw support,



Nothing is glued in this stage because the main shafts must be connected also, and because of that reason you must be able to twist or bend the support a bit.
However you need to glue the keel and the brass support on the keel to get a firm base to work from.

After the shafts are insert into the bearing s and all runs okay then you can glue the bearing supports in the hull and solder these in the bearings,

Here some photo's off the assemble complete but not glued and it looks nice already.





So the first thing to do now is get the aft bulkhead in the hull and connect the shafts to the main engines shafts to get the shaft bearings running smooth.

Will be continued,

Regards,

Jan,
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Old Jan 28, 2013, 07:01 AM
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WTC Tube inside the Hull

Hello all,

However for I can mount the shafts and rudders I need to insert the WTC in the main hull.
And therefore I need to build the WTC tube inside the hull first and that's not done without some serious thinking and work.

First you have to see if the back off the front hull is flat and at a 90 degree angle at all sides and to do that isn't easy, so I put the hull down on his back on a horizontal glass plate and just look if she was tilting somewhere and started to sand the back flat on the glass plate.
The hull was very flat itself so it looks okay so far.

Then I insert without any modification the bulkhead in the aft.



Then I tack glue the second carrier inside the hull and slide the hull in.



Then you must put the hull down on his keel horizontal and examen if the tube is also horizontal,
If not sand the carrier inside the Hull till it is.

If the tube is horizontal glue the already prepared front bulkhead inside the front off the Hull,

Front bulkhead,



And before insert it put the nose cone (part off the WTC) at it.



After inserting this assembly without any glue in the nose, then slide in the tube till it enter the nosecone completely and push the tube inside the Hull till it sit flat at the end off the aft bulkhead.

The second bulkhead inside the Hull needs also (recommended) to sand the sharp edges smooth, so the tube will find his way easily trough the bulkhead.



Detail,



Then about the nose cone, the two treaded brass axes where not proper mounted at the right dimension so I need to break one off and relocate this ax.



After the tube is pushed in totally without brute force and use off a big hammer

Then check the alignment of the tube inside the Hull.

Then tack glue the front bulkhead with out gluing the nose cone to.....

After the glue cures pull the tube out of the hull and glue the bulkheads with 24 hours epoxy glue.

The second bulkhead almost completely glued inside the hull,



The front bulkhead after glued it to his final spot,



Then I pushed in the tube with the nosecone till it sit at the front bulkhead,



A nice view,




Now I can begin with the clamps you need to secure the WTC tube in the Hull.

The clamps and one carrier,



And here you see the end off the tube against the aft bulkhead, it need some sanding because the aft of the hull was not that flat and secure as I expected. but not bad at all.



The second carrier will be glued in this week and then I will start with the aft hull to adapt the WTC engine bulkhead and in the same time doing this also the two shafts and the Rudder and the
shaft-bearing support frame because all of them must be alignment okay together.
So I hope I have enough hands to do that

I hope thats this explanation was clear because it isn't that hard but you don't have a second opportunity without a lot off damage

Regards,

Jan.
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Old Jan 29, 2013, 03:21 AM
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The aft Hull

Hello all,

To build the stern up you need to put in the tech-rek itself first because the engine bulkhead is attached on it.



Then we can check if the bulkhead in the front hull fits okay against the bulkhead attached at the tech-rek. You can see nicely the O-Ring chamber.





Then I put the shafts together with the supplied fittings, you need to do that to pin point the holes in the aft hull and to line up the rudder support frame.




Here you see the shafts leaving the hull,



Then I slide the both shafts inside the bearing and rudder support till it sit under the hole where the resin keel are located but not there at the moment.





Then you slide the resin keel between the support frame and aft hull and click it together.



Now check if all is lined up correctly.

When doing that I noticed that I forgotten the support abs pieces to strengthen the bulkhead because this aft hull will be handled a lot with in and out pulling and pushing the tech-rek.

So I did,





I attached a ruler to check the both hull's together.





Not bad at all but not okay yet,





I use a glass plate and sanding paper to sand the aft hull flat, and take your time..



If all looks okay inside we start to prepare the gluing progress but before we doing that we have to make ready the parts that are not that easily to reach when the aft hull is glued.



So please make flat spots on the the motor shafts and also on the propeller shafts.





One photo tells more then thousand words so I use a lot of photo's.
just to cover up my not always correct English .

Regards,

Jan,

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Old Jan 31, 2013, 05:00 AM
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Hello,

Then I connect also the tube on the vent pipe inside the aft bulkhead because it will be hard to connect that one later on.

Now its time to sand the glue areas with grit 60 sandpaper and clean it with white spirit.

Then I connect the hulls together, have check them on straitness with the ruler,





Fix and secure the hulls with Tape (Duck-tape) so they don't move any more,



And glue it at 4 to 6 spots with 25 hour epoxy glue and let it cure, after curing you can set the complete hull on his nose and start gluing the rest, but I want to see it first if all went well after curing of the tack glue.

Note: here you can also see the vent tube as mentioned earlier,




After drying of the glue I noticed a problem, when I straighten the two hulls with each other, one side opened.

This side is beautiful,



But this side wend wrong





I have checked the hulls and they where okay, they looks really nice so I missed this completely that night...

But I glued the aft hull a bit (1mm) further than the aft bulkhead so I give myself a bit playing ground to correct this kind of mishaps. (I know myself)

So I took a piece of sandpaper and put it between the closed halves of the hulls and start twisting the aft hull against the sanding paper what I hold firmly still to the front hull.





And start sanding the high sides and look carefully if the hull is closing completely.

And it works,



It start to look a lot better,





And the "old" bad side,



Job done,

Will be back,

Jan,
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Old Jan 31, 2013, 09:45 PM
ir3
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279 Posts
Fit Of Tail Section

Hi Jan,

The fit of the aft section of the hull appears to be going quite well for you. On mine, I have to deal with an aft section and main hull that do not match up in size, about 1+ mm difference in height.

I am currently building the conning tower details and I came across a part with the part number V 39.3. It is one of the railings for the conning tower. I can not find any reference in the build manual as to how to make this part. I think it might come pre built from Engel but I am not sure. Could you check your brass wire parts and see if you have a pre made V 39.3?

Thanks and keep up the great work,

Iran
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 02:21 AM
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Hi Iran,

I will look if I find this part you mean, or do you have a photo of it?

You maybe mean this part?



Let me know,

Jan,
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 02:31 AM
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The rudder and bearing support frame

First I slide the shaft covers over the shafts then I put the keel in his place in the aft hull and slide the rudder and bearing support frame over the shafts and start bending the frame till it slides nicely over the shafts and start gluing the complete set-up.

I hold the frame with a clamp at its place and let it cure for a night.

Here you see the shaft covers hanging on the shafts,



Bit a brute clamp but it works,







Then after the glue cures it was time to align the shafts with the bearings in the support frame,

I put on the screws and discover that they hit the Hull, so I need to bend the frame outwards to get the blades free from the hull.



After done that I connect the two motors inside the techrek,



And put 5 volt at one side at the time and start bending and turning the frame at such way I obtain the maximum rotations per minute with the lowest current,

After a wile I was able to let both shafts running with 5volts and 1.1 amp current at slow speed.

I measure 1.4 amp with 12 volts on both motors free spinning but it makes not many noise because it is a belt drive gear what's works very nice.



Here you can see the volts and current on my home build power supply.



I glued in the frames thats holds the shaft bearing's

First I glued the frames inside the aft hull and when it was cured it soft solder the brass strips into the shafts bearings holders.



And the solder job, it takes some time because I have not a very powerful solder iron but it works.



Need some grinding and sanding but its a steady base now.

Then normally when connecting a screw on a threaded shaft you use a lock nut to secure the screw (common practice in hobby land) but its a bit rude..
So I drilled a 2,5mm hole into the crews threaded it with M3 and uses RVS headless bolts to secure the crews.



Its nice and almost invisible.

Then I inserts the bearings for the aft rudders with CA glue, its was not hard to do because Engel did a beautiful job here, if you set the keel okay the rest will follow.



And when you inserts the rudders they are horizontal with the shafts.

The back dive rudders,



After done that I glued the two shaft coffers in place.



Regards,

Jan,
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Last edited by Horseman; Feb 02, 2013 at 06:34 AM.
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 07:28 AM
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[QUOTE=Horseman;23955910]Hello all,

Its a long time ago that I have posted here...3 years isn't long around here. Does someone not make a PE deck to save you all that cutting?
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 09:35 AM
ir3
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Part V 39.3

Hi Jan,

I am posting a picture of the build manual with the part in question outlined.

Iran
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 09:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ir3 View Post
Hi Jan,

I am posting a picture of the build manual with the part in question outlined.

Iran

Hi Iran,

I can't find that piece either and I can not remember that I have seen it also?

So I guess that we have to make it ourself,

Jan,
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 06:45 AM
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Conning tower

Hi everybody,

The periscopes standards are great and only need to sand the joints caused by the making progress of the resin parts.



Then I encounter something funny, the part in the middle of the inside plating are very flexible, kind off jelly but resin like material,

This the part I mention,



And it can do this,



And also this,



I put the parts dry together to check if all are alright.



And it fits well at most points.



The SB side needs some real attention but for the most its fits really nice.



I'm intend to do the gluing with CA and 1 hour epoxy glue.



The flexible middle part will help a great deal to make the joint between the SB and BB inside plating easier.

Greetings,

Jan,
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Old Feb 02, 2013, 09:51 AM
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Really fantastic build. Your photography is clear and very helpful. I like the tips that you offer and your English is fine! Thank you for doing this work in progress.
peace,
Tom
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