Originally Posted by hooligan russ

Hey,
I got the S022 for xmas, and had a few nice flights with my 0.67x wide angle keychain cam on it, but today it began having trouble flying forward, and then the lower blade in the back will not spin on its own. If I throttle up and then flick the blade it will start going, but not as fast as the others. Question: do you thinks its the motor or the controller board? Thanks in advance.

You should take the fuselage apart and check the gears on the shafts

I'm new to RC helos and new to to this forum. I too am having the exact same issue described with my new S022 Chinook. Problems flying forward and rear rotor intermittently not spinning up. I'm gonna take it apart ans see what I can see.

Yep, although I'm going to wait for my son to join me for the surgery. I've got to say I'm inspired by all the problem solving engineering spirit on this thread, so I'm hoping he'll be inspired to be an engineer someday. He won't get the genetics from his mom and I, so it'll have to be inspiration.

Thanks for the encouragement!

Originally Posted by Toltec21

Gents, I'm also new to the boards here, and will be searching this thread for some insights into how to get our relatively new Chinny S022 back in the air. After a glorious few days starting Christmas morning, my 10 year old son's Chinny is basically grounded. The rear upper rotor isn't functioning, and I'm guessing the hard crashes have dislodged a gear or something. I haven't mustered the courage to open her up, but I think it's inevitable.

So I'll be reviewing this thread closely for lessons to be learned.

Transmitting from Austin, TX, this is Toltec21.

Mine is doing the exact same thing. I read here somewhere that the motors get pretty hot after consecutive flights, so I'm wondering if I burned mine out after three battery packs.

Originally Posted by scotsoft

It sounds like you have guessed the problem, time to get the screwdriver out

Took it apart, nothing clearly out of alignment, and the cap is on the top of the motor securely.

You could try swapping the front and rear motors round, there should be enough wire to let you try that and as they plug into the board there is no soldering required

I'm afraid it is just a case or trying different ideas before buying new motors.

Originally Posted by scotsoft

You could try swapping the front and rear motors round, there should be enough wire to let you try that and as they plug into the board there is no soldering required

I'm afraid it is just a case or trying different ideas before buying new motors.

Thats a great idea!

I already ordered the motors, but thats a great way to isolate the issue.

Toltec, you should try that... impress and encourage your son with your electrical engineering know-how!

Originally Posted by hooligan russ

Thats a great idea!

I already ordered the motors, but thats a great way to isolate the issue.

Toltec, you should try that... impress and encourage your son with your electrical engineering know-how!

Hooligan, I WISH I had electrical engineering know-how! ;-) I'm the liberal arts type with a minimum amount of "open that transistor radio" experience that I'm sure our Chinook Flight Engineers here had at some point. I've read all 46 pages of this thread, and there are some great problem solvers here!

FYI to Scotsoft and DJDavies83 in the UK, I'm also the proud owner of a fine Linn Audio System, and the Linn Community Boards are filled with amazing users that can perform all kinds of exquisite surgery on their audio gear to isolate and repair problems. I can only read at a level to appreciate what they're doing. HOWEVER, if I can help it, I won't leave my son on the sidelines like I have lived my life. I'm not kidding, I hope that by supporting his interests in RC helis, maybe it will further inspire his desire to learn how to fix his own gear and that will lead to an engineering or science career.

We haven't cracked our Chinook open yet, but will hope to today and will get back on it. Speaking again from having read the 46 previous pages which testify how hardy the individual motors are, I wouldn't think you've burnt out that motor, but I suppose replacing the suspect unit is one way to isolate the problem. I suspect a good crash or two has slipped something else out of alignment.

In our case, since the Chinny's been grounded a couple of days, a time or two, we've turned the unit on first and before turning on the controller, about 33% of the time the propellers just FIRE up, possessed or something, for a burst and then back to zero. A few random times, I was holding the unit by the rear section and gripping it near where the motors lie and suddenly the disabled rear top propeller roared to life.

Again, I can't reproduce that on demand, but it's happened more than once. That leads me to believe that something back there like a gear is out of vertical alignment or perhaps a connection is loose or faulty. Hopefully we'll get it ironed out.

My wife actually gave me a stern talking to last night that it pains her to see him so disappointed in his two favorite christmas gifts (he also has a new Air Hogs Hawk Eye Blue Sky that is "grounded") and I reminded her that his disappointment is only the inverse of how tremendously excited he was "to fly", and that no other toy would have given him those emotional highs either.

FYI, gents, once we get our Chinny back and humming, I might have to set aside a little cash for my own heli—I'm getting excited to pick out my own unit but with a Gyro feature. I'll take suggestions on a great entry unit.

Best to all,

Toltec21

Originally Posted by Toltec21

In our case, since the Chinny's been grounded a couple of days, a time or two, we've turned the unit on first and before turning on the controller, about 33% of the time the propellers just FIRE up, possessed or something, for a burst and then back to zero. A few random times, I was holding the unit by the rear section and gripping it near where the motors lie and suddenly the disabled rear top propeller roared to life.

Toltec21

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE always turn the transmitter on first and the heli on second.

This happened to me when I bought my second S022, I was holding the Chinook and switched it on thinking I had already switched the transmitter on. It went to full throttle and the bottom rotor blades were brushing against my fingers.
Since you have experienced that you know how much lift the rotor blades have, just think if that were your son

There are some people in RCG who will tell you this is not necessary when using smaller helis.
My way of thinking is learn good habits from day one so they become second nature

Originally Posted by scotsoft

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE always turn the transmitter on first and the heli on second.

This happened to me when I bought my second S022, I was holding the Chinook and switched it on thinking I had already switched the transmitter on. It went to full throttle and the bottom rotor blades were brushing against my fingers.
Since you have experienced that you know how much lift the rotor blades have, just think if that were your son

There are some people in RCG who will tell you this is not necessary when using smaller helis.
My way of thinking is learn good habits from day one so they become second nature

You're right, and we learned the hard way. I should have noted that we've since discontinued that start up sequence! For all of my limitations, I do have a scientific approach to try and isolate what happens and why. But I do appreciate the reminder and encouragement to follow good procedures. Seeing the mighty Chinook near anyone's face (with the magazines and paper flying around) is enough to give me pause.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Toltec21

You're right, and we learned the hard way. I should have noted that we've since discontinued that start up sequence! For all of my limitations, I do have a scientific approach to try and isolate what happens and why. But I do appreciate the reminder and encouragement to follow good procedures. Seeing the mighty Chinook near anyone's face (with the magazines and paper flying around) is enough to give me pause.

Thanks!

You can't beat a scientific mind

When you do get inside the beast if you are in need of further help then close up pictures are a great way to get that help - we love pictures

Originally Posted by scotsoft

You could try swapping the front and rear motors round, there should be enough wire to let you try that and as they plug into the board there is no soldering required

I'm afraid it is just a case or trying different ideas before buying new motors.

I swapped the plugs and the front motors fired up fine when plugged into the other side of the board. So it seems the problem is the motor. New set of motors ($6) should arrive next week from xheli.com

thanks for the idea scot

Originally Posted by hooligan russ

I swapped the plugs and the front motors fired up fine when plugged into the other side of the board. So it seems the problem is the motor. New set of motors ($6) should arrive next week from xheli.com

thanks for the idea scot

Pleased I could help, once you get it fixed up with the new motors you should do a short video showing off your flying skills and your Chinook back in the air

Team RC, my son and I have the Chinny on the operating table to open her up and investigate why the rear/top rotor won't turn and...we're having trouble and might have stripped a few screws.

First question: is the "left facade" with more screws, best side to open up from? Second: it appears the screws on either side of the motor housing are the ones giving us the most trouble. I was careful to engage the screws carefully before turning (for fear of stripping the little buggers) but I'm pretty sure that's what has happened.

IF the screws surround both rotor housings are indeed stripped, what are possible remedies?

Thanks in advance,

Toltec21 and little Toltec

Originally Posted by Toltec21

Team RC, my son and I have the Chinny on the operating table to open her up and investigate why the rear/top rotor won't turn and...we're having trouble and might have stripped a few screws.

First question: is the "left facade" with more screws, best side to open up from? Second: it appears the screws on either side of the motor housing are the ones giving us the most trouble. I was careful to engage the screws carefully before turning (for fear of stripping the little buggers) but I'm pretty sure that's what has happened.

IF the screws surround both rotor housings are indeed stripped, what are possible remedies?

Thanks in advance,

Toltec21 and little Toltec

Update: A more precisely fitted tiny screwdriver has us moving again. I'll report back when examining the interior.

T21

Originally Posted by Toltec21

Update: A more precisely fitted tiny screwdriver has us moving again. I'll report back when examining the interior.

T21

I'll have the defribulator on charge