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Old Feb 22, 2012, 09:00 PM
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Has anyone tried this main gear for the V130d01?

http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...mart&Itemid=31

Thanks
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Corporaptor View Post
Hi there

I recently received my new V120D01 in the mail from walkera.co.nz, it was flying fine for the first 6 batteries through it. Then it started to become very unstable, so I started to disassemble it and found that one of my e-clips was missing.
From what alot of people have written on this forum the e-clips is causing alot of trouble so I was wanting to do the oring mod. This in itself is fine but I live in New Zealand and i am having trouble trying to find such small orings. http://www.oringsandmore.com doesn't ship to NZ.

Can anybody help me out with a supplier.

Thanks

P.S Should have listened to whoever said to purchase a screw set with this heli.
What makes you think oringsandmore won't ship to NZ? Their website indicates they ship worldwide:

Customer Service

All orders typically ship within 24-48 hours from Richmond, VA. Our standard shipping method is USPS within the continental United States and we ship all over the world. If you need USPS Priority or UPS Next Day Air please just call us and we can do that!

Contact us at Oringsandmore@verizon.net


I suppose if needed, I could act as a "middle" man, after receiving payment, order your part(s), have it shipped to my US address, and upon arrival I'll re-label the ship to address to your address and re-ship it. I'd do it for free; however, you'd have to pre-purchase all expenses including the double shipping charges.

It wouldn't surprise me if somewhere in the largest city of NZ, someone already has those o-rings for sale. Maybe check Air-conditioning or Hydraulic parts stores?

About the e-clips, I discarded mine, and use small thin washers instead. IMO the smoother/slipperier the better.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 06:51 AM
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Yes absolutely, all these things can make a difference.
I have also found out when I did my first "overhaul"(not really, replaced a few parts together: main gear, blades, skid, canopy and a servo arm plastic part), the heli did not perform perfectly straight away, but after a couple of days it gradually reached a super smooth and quiet operation. Weird.

Something else that has happened to me twice and was inducing wobbling, was the servo arm that connects the head to the swashplate (particularly the black plastic part with the little hole in the end) to get off of the little sphere and settle slightly closer to the head center. Not sure I'm explaining this well, but all you have to do is push it back out until it clicks.
Somebody please feel free to explain this better, english is not my first language!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisBean View Post
I've also discovered that unbalanced blades can cause a slight wobble.
I have 2 V120's, and several sets of new spare main blades. I started swapping them around on both V120's and noticed quite a bit of difference of how much wobble was present, depending on which blades I was using. Ironically, the older main blades, with slight wear and tear, were much better balanced than the new ones.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sawedoff3 View Post
Those are gears only and you would have to purchase a AR hub to fit them to the heli, Xtreme makes them for those gears http://www.xtreme-production.com/xtr...mart&Itemid=31 . Don't waste your money, dead weight. Fixed pitch helis do not need them. Since you can't change blade pitch you can't really pull of an auto anyway. These are really made for the 120 frame CP helis, not sure how much benefit you would get on a CP that small either.

Happy Flying !!!

Bill S.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 11:21 AM
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The Digital Domain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YianPap View Post
Something else that has happened to me twice and was inducing wobbling, was the servo arm that connects the head to the swashplate (particularly the black plastic part with the little hole in the end) to get off of the little sphere and settle slightly closer to the head center.
That happens all the time. You explained it well.

Quote:
Originally Posted by YianPap View Post
I have also found out when I did my first "overhaul"(not really, replaced a few parts together: main gear, blades, skid, canopy and a servo arm plastic part), the heli did not perform perfectly straight away, but after a couple of days it gradually reached a super smooth and quiet operation. Weird
Components on this heli are not within tight tolerances, and tend to move a little. When they do, it effects the way the gears mesh together, but since the plastic is not hard, the gears sometimes "wear in" over time. I guess that's one advantage to using a cheaper plastic.
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Old Feb 23, 2012, 12:56 PM
If it Works, You Better Fix It
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North Idaho
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TravisBean View Post
That happens all the time. You explained it well.

Components on this heli are not within tight tolerances, and tend to move a little. When they do, it effects the way the gears mesh together, but since the plastic is not hard, the gears sometimes "wear in" over time. I guess that's one advantage to using a cheaper plastic.
Hey Corporaptor

+1 on both above suggestions. If condition persists. Disconnect the links from the swash to the head, remove blades. Spin the motor up as slowly as it will spin using throttle stick. Back off the throttle a little more, the motor will turn even slower and check the main shaft just under the head block for straightness. Use a sharpie while spinning to mark the side it's bent towards. Gently bend, in frame, if necessary. This is very soft metal. Do not rely on the head button on top to check for head wobble. It's a seperate machined piece that often has runout. Check blade grip screws, the ones that hold the two pieces together. Are they tight ? O-ring mod +1 while you are there. Saftey Glasses next, instal blades and check for tracking. Look at both spinning blades edge on. if one blade is higher than another, (you see adouble image) replace blades. Gear mesh OK ? Tight mesh with runout in gears can be a source of vibration. Tail drive shaft and damaged shaft drive gears can definately cause isues. If mechanical checks out, no vibes with servo to swash links disconnected. Check for a twichy servo or gains too high on AIL and ELEV will also cause in flight wobbling. Mark your gain settings and lower them a little just to see if wobble diminishes.

Just food for thought. I've chased all of this stuff down more than once. Sometimes you find a vibe somewhere that amplifies somewhere else and stumps you, or trips up your gyros.

The above checks are primarly for side to side wobbles and vibes. If you have vertical bobbing, (tail moves up and down) It's usually in the head damper, grip area or ELEV gain too high.

Happy Flying !!!

Bill S.

Edit: also check servo to RX connections. A servo getting low current or otherwise operating slowly can cause wobbles since the heli responds slower than the gyro "thinks" it should causing an oscillating over-correction. This is the same effect as having gains too high.
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Old Feb 24, 2012, 05:40 PM
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New Zealand, Southland, Invercargill
Joined Jan 2012
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Thanks to everyone for all of your reply's.
I have managed to source some o rings locally . Also another problem that may be causing wobbling was that I over tightened the screw that holds the cap on the head and it snapped . I have tried many attempts to get it out, but with no success. So i have a new head to replace the useless one. And I thought I would get a screw set and a blade balancer as well. When my parts arrive(which will take about a week) I will inspect and try all the advice you have given me and post my success.
Thanks
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 04:04 PM
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Sydney
Joined Mar 2009
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I'm up for a new canopy, what's the consensus on the best most durable plastic canopy...

1/ The stock Walkera one
2/ The Xtreme Canopy for the 4G6/V120 link here
3/ The Xtreme Canopy for the ESKY link here
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 06:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YianPap View Post
Yes absolutely, all these things can make a difference.
I have also found out when I did my first "overhaul"(not really, replaced a few parts together: main gear, blades, skid, canopy and a servo arm plastic part), the heli did not perform perfectly straight away, but after a couple of days it gradually reached a super smooth and quiet operation. Weird.
The links need a bit of time to break in.

Chief
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Old Feb 26, 2012, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmozz View Post
I'm up for a new canopy, what's the consensus on the best most durable plastic canopy...

1/ The stock Walkera one
2/ The Xtreme Canopy for the 4G6/V120 link here
3/ The Xtreme Canopy for the ESKY link here
I really like these paper canopies-- you just print them out on glossy photo paper-- cheap, super durable, and they look great (here's a pic with one on my V120D02S)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...paper+canopies


Chief
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 12:20 PM
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United States, MA, Boston
Joined Oct 2011
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Flew 6 packs yesterday with gust wind up to 20MPH. My little fighting bird even had one complete right roll 40 ft up in the air and landing beautifully. AIL and throttle controls were brutal but seems OK and manageable most of the time. Kid, don't try this at home! Broke a main rotor blade and horizontal fin, called it a good day!
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 12:45 PM
Have Guitar Will Travel
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The Digital Domain
Joined Nov 2008
1,375 Posts
I had my first serious indoor crash in a while.
Damage report:
Cracked canopy, and the heli wanted to continuously turn clockwise.
I removed the tail-servo arm, rotated it one notch (from where it previously sat on the servo), screwed it back in, and that fixed the problem.
A little bit of Scotch tape fixed the canopy.
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Old Feb 27, 2012, 09:13 PM
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United States, TX, New Braunfels
Joined May 2011
489 Posts
Does anyone know if there's a better RX available for the V120D01? I'm looking for a better auto stable feature such as the M120D01 or the Genius CP.
Thanks
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 07:08 AM
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Sydney
Joined Mar 2009
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Hi all,

I picked up a 2nd hand 4#6s really cheap which for the price I thought would only be good to use as parts for my V120, but upon investigation the heli is fully operational but has been roughly converted to flybarless (flybar chopped off and links moved).

I was thinking of changing it over to full V120 flybarless spec (changing the swash, rotor head & blade grips) but was wondering what the difference is between the RX2433V in the V120 and the RX2433 in 4#6s?

Is the any difference at all, or are they the same inside?

Cheers,
Glen
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Old Feb 29, 2012, 11:23 AM
If it Works, You Better Fix It
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North Idaho
Joined Feb 2011
720 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gmozz View Post
Hi all,

I picked up a 2nd hand 4#6s really cheap which for the price I thought would only be good to use as parts for my V120, but upon investigation the heli is fully operational but has been roughly converted to flybarless (flybar chopped off and links moved).

I was thinking of changing it over to full V120 flybarless spec (changing the swash, rotor head & blade grips) but was wondering what the difference is between the RX2433V in the V120 and the RX2433 in 4#6s?

Is the any difference at all, or are they the same inside?

Cheers,
Glen
Hi Glen, someone correct me if I'm wrong here. I just converted one of my 4#6S (2433 RX) to a V120D01. I replaced the RX with the 2433V model because the RX, from the info I gathered, is designed to work without the phasing from the flybar and thus give better stability and flight characteristics on the flybarless head. If you use the V120D01 blades your head speed will also be slower due to the larger surface area. The 2433V may also take this lower head speed into account. Higher head speed generally = better stability so there may be some differences there too. Others have converted a bell head to FBL and used the 2433RX equipped 4#6S and said it flys fine. Don't know if they had a VD01 to compare too though. I didn't think to switch head parts and swash and try it with my old RX. Hmmmmm, I'm getting an idea... I'll report back if I try the swap. Any one else with experience on this ???

You can always try it, if you don't like it, change it, and please post results. Tinkering, and then flying your creation, good or bad, is one of the great parts of this hobby.

Happy Flying !!!

Bill S.
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