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Old May 18, 2010, 02:33 PM
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Atlanta GA.
Joined Aug 2005
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Build Log
Another Guillows Cessna 150 conversion, Video added!

Hello,
This will be my first attempt at a build log. I know there are already several good threads on converting this model and similar ones to R/C, so I wont be doing a step by step log since its been done many times. Rather, I will focus only on the things Im doing slightly different to achieve my goals. Im really hoping to get some good feedback as I go, to make this model as successful as possible.

My primary goal with this build is a good flying model, all else is secondary. I wont be adding many scale details other than the finnish, and im going to experiment with different materials to save wieght and maintain strenght.
To be more specific, I will be using 3mm Depron for the tail, and possibly the wings. I know the balsa "purists" will hate this, and many, including myself, prefer the asthetic of a "built up" structure, but Im really starting to appreciate the quick and simple, lightwieght construction of foam in these smaller models. Besides, the real 150 didnt have a built up balsa structure, so Why limit ourselves!!

At this point, Im still not sure how im going to build the wing. Id like a simple cambered foam wing like the Parkzone UM Mustang. i understand this can be done with molds and an oven, but Im hoping there will be an easier way. If anyone here has done this, please speak up!

So anyway, here is the model 150 I will be attempting to re-create. Its a 1974 150 Aerobat. The only significant visual difference between this one and the earlier "omni-vision" 150 that the kit is modeled after is the size of the dorsal fin.
ive already got some white and red Solite, i just need to find out the best way to paint the blue trim on white Solite.
-mark
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Last edited by flying4food; May 28, 2010 at 07:26 PM.
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Old May 18, 2010, 02:44 PM
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Atlanta GA.
Joined Aug 2005
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Lets get started

Ok, I will be using a 5 gram BL motor and AR6400 reciever, opperating all 4 channels, thus the need to keep it light.
I have already built the fuselage. It is built mostly to the plans. I have cut lightning holes in most of the formers and substituted some of the 1/16" in the kit with higher quality 1/32" sheet. I also replaced most of the stringers with my own wood.

Next step will be deciding on where to cut an access hatch for the reciever. once thats done I can start the final sanding in preperation for covering.
I havent added the landing gear yet, but I will be doing that as soon as I cut the hatch. I will be using light gauge wire since 100% of my flying is over grass, the only thing the gear is good for is snagging in the grass and flipping the plane!! Im thinking .025 or .030" music wire.

Im not sure of my work schedule over the next few days but I will post some pictures of the completed fuse when I get there.
Thanks, Mark
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Old May 18, 2010, 07:17 PM
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United States, OR, Hood River
Joined Jul 2007
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I have this same kit halfway built in my garage... looking forward to seeing someone complete theirs!
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Old May 18, 2010, 07:52 PM
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Everett Wa.
Joined Jun 2001
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I always have to ask if you have seen this thread?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827861

I recommend that you read all the more modern series 300 threads. Other than outline most of the high wings builds are very close to the same structure.

I find that anything you can do to lighten rear pays huge dividends to keep the weight down. I recommend that you strengthen the landing gear and cabin area.
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Old May 19, 2010, 05:05 AM
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Atlanta GA.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Konrad View Post
I always have to ask if you have seen this thread?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=827861

I recommend that you read all the more modern series 300 threads. Other than outline most of the high wings builds are very close to the same structure.

I find that anything you can do to lighten rear pays huge dividends to keep the weight down. I recommend that you strengthen the landing gear and cabin area.
Konrad, Thanks. Yes I have read that thread. Thats the reason I Wont really do a detailed log, its been done quite well by others. Just highlight the changes.
I agree, the Cessna 150/170 have loong tail moments and will be difficult to build without having to add wieght to the nose when using a lighter motor. This is the reason Im going to try some depron for the tail. We will see if it helps. Thanks for the input.
-Mark
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Old May 19, 2010, 08:41 PM
My plans are in my blog
Rusty-Gunn's Avatar
Kotzebue, Alaska
Joined May 2006
5,416 Posts
This is cool. i've built two of these as a teen, and had wanted to try one as a r/c model, but it was beyound my means back then. I look forward to your maidne flight.
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Old May 20, 2010, 04:06 AM
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Thanks, I should have some time at home over the next few days to get some work done on the 150. Ill post pics when there is some real progress.
-mark
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Old May 21, 2010, 04:03 PM
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Some progress....

So Ive had a few days to get some work done on the 150. I covered the fuse with Solite white and red. The blue is actually an old roll of Monokote that I never opened! It still had the sticker from 1994 on the wrapping I know its heavy, but thats all Im using, and I figure it cant weigh that much more than paint, and Im not gonna buy a whole roll of Solite just for that!

Some notes for others...If you are going to build this plane and cover it with plastic covering, add a few stringers to the sides and lower fuse. I didnt, and I wish I had! The tension of the covering is too much for so few stringers and it caused the fuse to "scallop" between the formers, oh well, its not too bad.

Ive cut the Depron tail parts and they look good. I will get started on the checkerboard on the tail tomorrow...

Still havent decided what Im going to do with the wings. Either build the kit wings with half the ribs or try something like a Depron wing with KFm-2 airfoil... dont know yet...

19.6 grams and counting! Not bad, I should come in close to my 60 gram AUW goal!

-Mark
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Old May 23, 2010, 03:02 PM
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I had some more time last night and this morning to work on the 150.
last night I installed the landing gear and put the Tail #'s on.
The gear is .025" music wire. The fairings and wheel pants are 3mm Depron. The "wheels" are 1/32 ply tabs glued between the two layers of depron wheel pants. Since I fly strictly over grass, I just couldnt justify wasting precious grams on wheels.

The checker board on the tail was done in solite and monokote. To say that this was tedious would be an understatement!! but in the end it was worth it.
I experimented with scrap foam and covering to find a temp for my iron that would activate the adhesive on the film and juuust barely not melt the foam!

I just cant put off building the wings any further! I really really want to do undercambered Depron wings, Im going to spend some time experimenting this afternoon. If I cant come up with something that works, Ill build the balsa wings.

The wieght is coming along nicely, Im now at exactlly 22 grams and counting.....
-Mark
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Old May 25, 2010, 11:45 PM
Woof. Arf. Angle of Attack.
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Iowa - East Central
Joined Oct 2007
143 Posts
Wow, that is a fantastic covering and detail job! Good low weight too!
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Old May 26, 2010, 12:19 AM
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United States, GA, Dalton
Joined Oct 2009
289 Posts
I am building the 150 now. How in the world do you get the trim so perfect (angles, space between blue/red trim the same- do you have special trim tools?
This is my 3rd model, 1-econocoat- no trim, and 2-tissue model. I would love to make this model nicer with trim, never trimmed any model.
I am planning on using Parkzone Mustang electronics.
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Old May 26, 2010, 06:52 AM
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Thank you guys for the kind words.
I have no special trim tools, just metal straight edge/ razor blades/ "ultra fine" sharpie.

When trimming a complex scheme, start with an oversize piece of covering and first cut the area that is going to give you the most trouble. In this case, the area around the cabin where 3 colors come together. The most important angle in the trim is just behind the window, cut that along with the correct line forward to the firewall.

I like to use an ultra fine sharpie because its easy to see on most any color trim and wont wipe off till you want it too. (rubbing alcahol takes it right off).

I use single edge razors for covering because X-acto blades dull quickly and are too expensive, its too tempting to keep using them beyond when you should!

Anyway, once you have that first angle cut, wipe a little warm water on the fuse and lay the trim down. It will stick down around the curves and allow you to mark the rest of your cuts. Once you get it right, keep just a little water on there, this is key! lay your trim down and squeegee out all the water with a dry paper towel or whatever.. Strart with LOW HEAT and stick down a few corners, then work from the middle out, if there is too much trapped water dropplets, it sill steam and cause a bubble, dont freak, keep going. A nice sharp sewing needle will pop a bubble, go back and press it down.
Yes, this takes some practice, but its not too hard. I hope this helped and I encourage you to experiment, you may be suprised with what you can do with this method.
-Mark
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Old May 26, 2010, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by headshot001 View Post
I am building the 150 now. How in the world do you get the trim so perfect (angles, space between blue/red trim the same- do you have special trim tools?
This is my 3rd model, 1-econocoat- no trim, and 2-tissue model. I would love to make this model nicer with trim, never trimmed any model.
I am planning on using Parkzone Mustang electronics.
Headshot,
Build it light!! count every gram! Replace heavy wood and cut lightening holes, use every other rib in the wing, etc.. Example, I saved nearly 4 grams with the light wieght landing gear, now I can install the AR6400 nearly for free!

I learned from my last rubber conversion that with the Parkzone Mustang gear, (electronics+motor) you really want to keep it under 2.5 oz. My Mr Mulligan (Sig Kit), is pushing 3 oz, and it flys, but anything other than crusing around straight and level is out of the question!

I will be using a brushless motor in this one (5 gram) that will be slightly more powerful, and Im shooting for under 2 oz, so far, its looking good.
-mark
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Old May 26, 2010, 05:46 PM
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United States, GA, Dalton
Joined Oct 2009
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Is the ar6400 what is used in the pz mustang? I believe I can plug an esc into the mustang reciever to operate an external motor?

If chose to use a little bigger motor, what is a good example?

I have some So lite white and blue on the way-- going to try to do a good covering job on this 150. I would like to find an 18" ws Monocoupe for my next project-- maybe use the electrics out of my PZ CUB.
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Old May 26, 2010, 06:00 PM
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Atlanta GA.
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Foam VS Balsa wings...

Just thought Id give a quick update for anyone watching.

The good news is I did finally learn how to shape a depron wing.... the bad news is I used up the last of my depron in the process, and only wound up with one good wing

Since my not-so-local hobby shop that carries depron is over an hour drive away, I generally wait till Ive got some other reason to go to that side of town, so I learned a lot, but balsa it is!!

Just incase anyone else was wondering, my balsa wings will weigh about 3.5 grams more than the 3mm depron. Thats with carefully selected wood and eliminating every other rib. Had I just opened the box and built per the plans, they would be MUCH heavier!! As it is, Im not happy with the extra weight, but I will just go with it and carry on with the build. Hope to be wrapping this one up by the weekend if all goes well with work.

-Mark
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