HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Jun 28, 2010, 02:27 PM
Newton and I are good friends
United States, NC, Asheville
Joined Jan 2009
2,050 Posts
Tom nice vid man...

Prime very interesting project u got there...has anyone told ya about www.hobbyking.com yet very good source for inexpensive stuff this is also a good source for stuff too http://www.lightflightrc.com/ can vouch they got good motors and esc's welcome back to the hobby and enjoy the electric revolution thats going on now....

Nice going guys, some really brilliant ideas flowing here...im still tied up with my edf planes & warbirds and have not had time to finish my stunt titan bash but after watching all the diff flight vids ive realized that i definately have way to much down thrust in my firewall since this plane seems to fly with a nose down attitude...keep flyn and bashing DJ
olwarbirds is offline Find More Posts by olwarbirds
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Jun 28, 2010, 08:48 PM
FLY FREE
Rcflying boy's Avatar
chicago
Joined Jul 2008
155 Posts
ok guys, just picked one up from target for $10 and want to convert it to a slope soarer. I would greatly appreciate it if you guys helped me out.
1. Where is the CG?
2.Do i need a rudder.
3. How will it fly without a rudder.
4. Are tailerons a good idea?

I plan on making it to have ailerons,elevator and rudder. I have doubts on the rudder though. I will be using one servo per aileron. Ailerons will be at the very wingtips on the larger portions of the wing at the tips. I will also use two micro servos (maybe one if i fugure out a way to hook up the two elevators together) one for each elevator half and possibly a rudder. I am scared the CG will be too far aft with the 3 servos in the tail.
Opinions please.
Rcflying boy is offline Find More Posts by Rcflying boy
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2010, 09:00 PM
Dance the skies...
Tom Frank's Avatar
United States, MA, Walpole
Joined Dec 2003
17,979 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcflying boy View Post
ok guys, just picked one up from target for $10 and want to convert it to a slope soarer. I would greatly appreciate it if you guys helped me out.
1. Where is the CG?
2.Do i need a rudder.
3. How will it fly without a rudder.
4. Are tailerons a good idea?

I plan on making it to have ailerons,elevator and rudder. I have doubts on the rudder though. I will be using one servo per aileron. Ailerons will be at the very wingtips on the larger portions of the wing at the tips. I will also use two micro servos (maybe one if i fugure out a way to hook up the two elevators together) one for each elevator half and possibly a rudder. I am scared the CG will be too far aft with the 3 servos in the tail.
Opinions please.
I flew my maiden flight with just tailerons (no rudder or ailerons... see the video I just posted) with CG at 5 in. aft of the wing LE. I think that is close to where the plain stock glider CG is. But I had to add several clicks of up elevator to fly level, so I may still be a bit nose heavy.

You'll have to add a bit of nose weight to balance the extra weight in the tail, but that's not a big issue... easily balanced. I found the extreme tailerons more than adequate for general sport flying. It depends on how you intend to fly as a slope glider as to whether tailerons alone will meet your needs. But if you are going to use a servo on each elevator half as I did, just hook them up with elevon mixing and you have tailerons. Try that without adding the wing ailerons. If you don't like it, just deactivate the elevon mixing on the elevators and add the ailerons later. Personally, I wouldn't bother with adding rudder control... not really needed unless you just absolutely have to have the ability to do hammerhead stall turns!
Tom Frank is offline Find More Posts by Tom Frank
Last edited by Tom Frank; Jun 28, 2010 at 09:06 PM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 28, 2010, 09:03 PM
Newton and I are good friends
United States, NC, Asheville
Joined Jan 2009
2,050 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rcflying boy View Post
ok guys, just picked one up from target for $10 and want to convert it to a slope soarer. I would greatly appreciate it if you guys helped me out.
1. Where is the CG?
2.Do i need a rudder.
3. How will it fly without a rudder.
4. Are tailerons a good idea?

I plan on making it to have ailerons,elevator and rudder. I have doubts on the rudder though. I will be using one servo per aileron. Ailerons will be at the very wingtips on the larger portions of the wing at the tips. I will also use two micro servos (maybe one if i fugure out a way to hook up the two elevators together) one for each elevator half and possibly a rudder. I am scared the CG will be too far aft with the 3 servos in the tail.
Opinions please.
Heya guy welcome to the titan bashing club...as long as your not gonna be changing the wing incidence any the CG will be right where its at now..just assemble it and you will find its just a bit forward of the te (trailing edge) of the wing. Im now not able to tell ya the measurement cuz ive cut both mine up and changed the wings alot. Far as worrying about the cg after installing servos, Id just balance at the original cg then put the radio gear/battery where it helped put the CG back to right place. Since the cg is so far aft on wing it dont take much weight up front to balance it back out again..have fun bashing... DJ
olwarbirds is offline Find More Posts by olwarbirds
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 29, 2010, 06:13 AM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
N.L. Canada
Joined Jun 2010
2,337 Posts
for glider.

keep CG at what ever spot it is when you fly the fresh out of bag foam.
( and it is not the same between bags it seam as i have had 3 out of bag now and 1 is 1/2 inch behind (lighter nose) the other 2 , as it is out of bag.)
roughly you can find a balance point near ...
Default fresh from bag:
out on main wings , 1.2 way out there is a injection mold mark . come 1/2 inch infront of that . this will let you check CG real quick . as it is a balence point on wings when all is well .
figure out a way to ajust some position of radio pack or such so you have move your CG a bit to compensate for feel on windy days . I fing for me i like a bit of nose weight . LOL
LOL my glider flys ok , but i need to find a local slope and i have not had anything but building weather (windy ) inlast while.
though i have ocean clifs , i'm not chucking off them . ( no beach down below )

back on posts 34 and 75 :
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=34
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...9&postcount=57
some of my build to try and keep stock body . personlay i like having rudder.
i tried just ailerons and elivator first , but found it was lacking .

thanks for help with stores guys ..
just have some tight money rite now. HU has been cool and answerd all my shipping concerns . i will be placing an order with them if all goes well.
once i have a starter package , i will be under way .
then i can tell my friends and family stuff suitable for the seasonal gifts .LOL, you know extra lipo's , better charger , watt meter ....
I just can;t belive how cheep it is now . I used to have a .40 cessna. and the motor for that was wicked expensive and a pain & messy & extra loud .
I cant wiat to fly clean electric again but now with way better power to weight .

:: i got more done on my twin boom .
the tail plane is in but i think i under sized the control surface vs fixed surface .



this boom one makes me want to scratch build voodoo. LOL
Prime_8 is offline Find More Posts by Prime_8
Last edited by Prime_8; Jun 29, 2010 at 06:24 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 29, 2010, 10:28 AM
Newton and I are good friends
United States, NC, Asheville
Joined Jan 2009
2,050 Posts
Prime, i hear ya bud. I been flying nitro aka slimer stuff for 40+ yrs now. Since i got into electrics a couple yrs ago i havnt had to get out the bottle of windex to wipe off any slime, dont miss that at all. Only thing i do miss at times is the sound of a hi reving nitro or one of the big 2 cycle gas engines deep grumble. I use to run a hobby shop about 15yrs ago and the cost back then to get into rc flying was well over 1,000$ and that was just to get started. Now 100$ can get ya flyn. Almost scary when i think about how much money ive put into planes over the yrs .. at least with these foamies the majority of the time if u crash u can glue them back together, havnt had one yet that i cudnt fix... dang maybe i shud not of said that ..i just recently got into ducted fan electrics and im amazed at the power they produce.

Found same thing you did with the titans the cg varies from bag to bag by about 1-2 inches, so dont think there is gonna be a standard cg for these. But what do u want for a 10$ versatile airframe....VOODOO sounds good to me those were fun planes....happy bashing DJ
olwarbirds is offline Find More Posts by olwarbirds
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 29, 2010, 02:13 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
N.L. Canada
Joined Jun 2010
2,337 Posts
voodoo , is not a plane you want to eject from .
the rear plane would decapitate a pilot .

there seems to be a few things you can do to a titan to make a funscale jet .
F 100 super saber ? "Hun"
F5 ( i think that is it ) with some ducting work and carving of the fuse.

i my try to get some thign fun scale close to them if i ever go EDF . LOL
Prime_8 is offline Find More Posts by Prime_8
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 29, 2010, 04:49 PM
Trash Hauler emeritus
herk1's Avatar
Maryland, USA
Joined Oct 2006
1,709 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
As an aside, I don't know how many have looked at those wing tips closely, but on mine the LE is perfectly straight all the way to the wing tips, but the TE has built in anhedral starting at the step and progressing to the tip. The result is the TE drops down slightly, increasing the angle of incidence slightly and adding a bit of flap-like action at the tips! I thought I had a deformed wing, but both have exactly the same design. It flies fine, but just adds lift and drag at the tips... something I don't need for my intended "parkjet" bash with only tailerons for control.
That outer wing section is odd indeed. The section as a whole is thicker, with a lower incidence than the inside wing (at least, at the transition point). So that gives washout. But then seemingly working against that, the outer wing section has internal washin, because like you say, it twists down toward the outside instead of up. So what is the net effect?...washout or washin? Since the Titan doesn't really drop off on a wing when stalling, I guess it's washout.

I modified my Titan twin to remove the dihedral (thanks, Billwhit...I used your method). Wow what a difference! That changed the plane from a sluggish-responding trainer to a relatively quick-responding sport-plane, just with that modification alone. I love the way it flies now! I was doing all kinds of aerobatics all up and down the park. I even flew around inverted for a sustained period (a minute or so)...and it was easy and effortless...which surprised me, because the wing is not symmetrical.

Attached is a "before-and-after" photo of my Titan (with and without dihedral). If you look closely in the "after" photo, you can get a sneak preview of something I'm doing with Titan build #2.
herk1 is offline Find More Posts by herk1
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 12:31 AM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
N.L. Canada
Joined Jun 2010
2,337 Posts
sweet , i hope they work good.
( looked like main will cut into the fuse area. I figure should not matter for just a small spot . very cool , cant wait to see a wip pic of it tac'ed together. )

:: i started linkage for tail section control surfaces and canards .
canards are done as they will only be a fixed form of trim but i may link them to elevator , later. ( possibly with it's own servo and mix it with spoiler & flaps if i get crazy )

tail booms i though were going to be a problem but actually as they are perfectly straight , they are proving quite easy . i will be routing balling wire through segments of small plastic tubes ( cotton swab centers ) where they need guidance .
the elevator moves just fine . ( just need some servos , prolly barrow some from glider for now ) ( all my old full size servos seem crazy huge now , but will be handy for heavy lifting jobs on bigger projects later )
again I'm trying for near invisible linkage . Now i may need some bell cranks and horns visible . ( custom made from thin Birch plywood again & some from nylon card ) .

I realized i removed some dihedral in this build . prolly not a bad thing , but i think once i have this one up and flying i may make one with flat wings.
also have been thinking of taking titans basic airfoil shape a s I have now sampled it in a few spots, and cut a custom wing with symmetrical from laminated foam of some sort . via hot wire . I will make it symmetrical by vertically mirror the airfoils sections along it's center .
the default wing seems mostly flat bottom with a touch of foil on bottom .
it could be funny, funny all the way into the dirt . LOL
but the idea came form watching some gliders. i figure i could make a sleek high aspect wing , it may make my glider more fun ? ( i have a foil sample in cardboard of just about every wing i made / bought ).

any one try a custom wing yet ?
Prime_8 is offline Find More Posts by Prime_8
Last edited by Prime_8; Jun 30, 2010 at 12:38 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 09:53 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
N.L. Canada
Joined Jun 2010
2,337 Posts
? do i really need a watt meter to start out ?
I can see why it is a good idea , but will a clamp on amp meter work just as well
( my VOM only hits 10 amps but i have a clamp on amp meter that detects as high as 100 amps )
just trying to decide what i can trade off for order this weekend .
( trade off = put on next months tab & birthday list items )
Prime_8 is offline Find More Posts by Prime_8
Reply With Quote
Old Jun 30, 2010, 11:46 PM
Newton and I are good friends
United States, NC, Asheville
Joined Jan 2009
2,050 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime_8 View Post
? do i really need a watt meter to start out ?
I can see why it is a good idea , but will a clamp on amp meter work just as well
( my VOM only hits 10 amps but i have a clamp on amp meter that detects as high as 100 amps )
just trying to decide what i can trade off for order this weekend .
( trade off = put on next months tab & birthday list items )
Prime, its nice to have when your testing the limits/draws of prop & motor combos that your not sure of...but a good charger and 2.4ghz radio is more important first.... you can pick up some decent inexpensive meters from harbor freight..no need to buy some fancy named thing from a hobby supplier..once u got the money the way to go is a data logger it gives ya real flight data...clamp ons work just fine, i dont think your gonna be over taxing any motors as of yet anyways.....amps is the critical factor normally any how, if the amps r to high who cares what the wattage is... DJ
olwarbirds is offline Find More Posts by olwarbirds
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 01, 2010, 12:51 AM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
N.L. Canada
Joined Jun 2010
2,337 Posts
yeah that was what i was thinking . i should be able to calculate wattage from ampreage .
and the only oen i saw that looke good was a watt meter & blanencer .
LO teh other factor is shipping cost . LOL with one spot the diff in shipping for my order is 1/2 teh price of the watt meter i was looking at . LOL hoby king is ok . but i still think HU R/C may be best $7 flat rate shipping and my order is more than 1 kg.
- hmm so i will test my amp clamp , if it works i will skip the watt meter .
:: nuts my clamp is AC v only , no DC support .

hmm. could use "poped" fuse during testing .
slap a 25a slow blow fuse in line with lipo connection . then test motor . if fuse don't pop then esc & lipo & motor are safe ( but i can't test what blade is actualy better for my setup that way ) LOL
so i could fly with a UBEC , & put a 25a slow blow inline . till i'm sure about power levels.
the cell i'm ordering is 30C so it can take a good draw, but that means it can give it too.
+ i could use a low ohm & high power resister with an easy value to calculate offset scale ves the 10 A on my VOM meter now . HMM too much math LOL

you know i'll prolly just order it , or upgrade the charger . LOL
Prime_8 is offline Find More Posts by Prime_8
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 01, 2010, 01:37 PM
Newton and I are good friends
United States, NC, Asheville
Joined Jan 2009
2,050 Posts
Yeah the math on all this electric pwr stuff can get a bit much at times.

One rule ive learned...for examples: a lipo with 2000mah 10c max output is 20amps....15c 30 amps ...20c 40 amps etc ..so when im doing a new setup i always make sure the lipo has some extra possible amp output then what im using, this will improve the life of your lipos..for example ...a setup that i expect to be pulling 30 amps i make sure the lipo is capable of providing 35amps or more....

Prime not sure if the blowing fuse idea is a good one LOL...i always use the above rule for the esc im gonna use too, they will run cooler and last alot longer and not much of a chance of a burnout.

ubec or seperate bec, I always use a seperate bec in any setup that has more than 4 servos in it and remember to disable the pwr wire from esc to rcvr too, thats the red wire in middle....i know that all wont agree with my ways of doing it but ive never had a burnout or pwr failure doing it this way... DJ
olwarbirds is offline Find More Posts by olwarbirds
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 01, 2010, 01:54 PM
Always Ready!
warhead_71's Avatar
Chicago, IL
Joined Dec 2006
5,181 Posts
A fuse is a bad idea... because if you blow the fuse then the plane will completely shut off and fly uncontrolled until it crashes to the ground. However, if you over-amp your ESC and fry it, the built-in linear BEC should still work and you can hopefully make a controlled glide landing... saving the plane.

The best insurance is to get an amp-meter and test that you aren't drawing too many amps at WOT. If so, then either prop down or get a bigger ESC -- I like to get an ESC at least 5A over just for piece of mind. And like others have said, if you are using more than 4 micro-servos, then use an external switching BEC... about $7 for the cheap Turnigy or Hextronik brand at HobbyKing... they work great.
warhead_71 is offline Find More Posts by warhead_71
Reply With Quote
Old Jul 01, 2010, 03:01 PM
Lawn dart pilot/builder
Prime_8's Avatar
N.L. Canada
Joined Jun 2010
2,337 Posts
4 servos ( 3 if i get it linked rite )

motor is a 2409 12T , 24a for 60 sec but other places rate it 23 a steady with no ill effects or over heat

the cell is a 1300mah 30C ~39a DR lipo ( safe there )
and the esc is 30a continuious mag 8 (35 A burst )

yeah, i'll prolly get the watt meter any how now. looks like it's all a go

. i will order a UBEC & v tail mixer chip in a few months down the road.
I have a bec that is not in use , but i need to dig up it's info . it was on a 9.6 V rig but i think it's good to input of 24v .

depends how / what controls i add to this build.

Just wanna say big thanks to all you guys help. I would not have got back into RC flying agin without it . Now if i can keep & improve my happy flight VS forced landings ration .LOL

oh some progress pics , & a fun thing i made from build scrap ... thing is scrape plane flys wicked good . ( has me thinking 5x size build of it later ) . it hovers in to land on belly , or glides rite in nice and smooth . very fast , flys wicked good for a brain fart.
Prime_8 is offline Find More Posts by Prime_8
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Build Log Air Hogs Titan (chuck glider) conversion Dash 9 Foamies (Scratchbuilt) 136 Mar 06, 2014 12:18 AM
Discussion AIR HOGS TITAN GLIDER to RC 'FUNJET' CONVERSION SNice Foamies (Kits) 65 Aug 04, 2012 12:57 PM
Discussion AIR HOGS TITAN wildhawk conversion Archer S Electric Plane Talk 10 May 17, 2010 09:28 PM
Air Hogs RC Titan Frequency 2 abdulf Electric Plane Talk 6 Jan 02, 2008 12:25 AM
4 fan air hogs rc TITAN igo Foamies (Kits) 1 Oct 19, 2004 08:38 PM