DX6i with DSM2 receiver from value hobby. I have been using this receiver with my Bixler with no issue using DX5e. I recently just got the DX6i.

http://www.valuehobby.com/radio-syst...ompatible.html

Interesting and Thank you.

P.S. Sorry about your lost but I know you will rebuild.

I will rebuild - definitely. The tail mount was too disintegrated that I don't think I will be able to glue back and have good strong mount. I'm thinking of converting it to a cat jet like this - moving motor mount up to area with still good foam.

Originally Posted by ccsj

My Titan suffered quite a nasty nose dive today.... I lost communication with my receiver and was trying to pull up but no respond and had to painfully watch my first beloved Titan nose dive at 90% throttle. This is the second time I lost linkage with the receiver today. First one I was able to recover fast enough to regain control. After I crashed and craked the fuse on Friday (again due to lost signal), I have been reading through and understood that I should set antennas 90deg apart so I current have one point up and one point to the wing (with solder wires). I know current set up wasn't ideal now with three ESC wires routed near the receiver. I will move the ESC wires outside the fuse after my repair. I have orange receiver on order and am considering to get the satellite. I appreciate any input you may have to help in improve linkage/range with my receiver.

Sorry to read about your mishap!

Well, not reinforcing the airframe will have some more shattering, but it has at least some advantage: as long as more valueable parts like battery, esc, servo, motor are not damaged, the disintegration will pass the energy to breaking the body, instead of stressing the electronic parts. Like the Sanp-N-fly planes, or Parkzone micro Stryker, they were designed to disintegrate and avoid more serious damage.

Looks like your plane falling apart, but still reparable, just some gorrila glue (my favorite glue as it fills the gap if contact is not perfect), the brown glue is better than white one.

Flew with my orange DSM2 compatible receiver for more than a year and never had a problem. Also had valuehobby AR6100 knockout for same amount of time, except for a scary nonresponsiveness in flight (maybe a couple of seconds), no problem until now. My genuine AR6200 with satelite actually was involved in a crash with no control response, although I found out the Hobbyking SS25-30A ESC might be the culpit. Only use satelite antenna with AR6100 for a bigger 70mm Sabre, for the peace of mind.

Originally Posted by Wrench66

haha.....Edwen, that plane was the inspiration for my build *bows humbly in your direction* .

yeah it's easy to be fairly fast and efficient once the wings are clipped and the dihedral minimized. Plus I'm cheap and don't have the extra $$ to afford the *good* batteries so I can't waste any power....lol

--Ray

Heyhey, i was wondering the other day, completely flattered. That was my first Titan bashing, almost two years ago? Learned a lot about how to work with EPS, like gorrila glue, no spray paint, how to use hot knife/drill, etc. She flew well at 150W 3s. Just going cheap, so took the servos out for other projects. Your pusher setup seems a better way to go though.

Well... Resurrection plus transformation... I chopped a little here and there and ended up with this (Thanks prime8). Will she fly??? Wonder where the CG is now... I had my previous set up at 3.5 inch from TE. I'll scan through prime8 build blog and figure out where he had his CG. Should have test glide it before I mount the motor with hot glue.

CCSJ, that looks very interesting. I believe I saw one similar in this thread, from the posted videos, it flies very well. Your looks like it will do the same but I am no expert.

Looks great ! Are they working canards?

No - they are fixed canards. I'm also no expert. Prime_8 built a jet like this last year.

Originally Posted by ccsj

Well... Resurrection plus transformation... I chopped a little here and there and ended up with this (Thanks prime8). Will she fly??? Wonder where the CG is now... I had my previous set up at 3.5 inch from TE. I'll scan through prime8 build blog and figure out where he had his CG. Should have test glide it before I mount the motor with hot glue.

Looks great ccsj! Canard plane is just so cool, and not so many kits for sale as normal airframe.

How is the angle of attack for the canard as against the main wing? If you current cg is more nose heavy compared to stock, canard will need to be lifting-canard, carrying some flying weight to balance. This kind of canard normally has a couple of degrees of positive AOA as against the chord of main wing, unless your cg is at stock cg.

I have to use down elevator to trim my Shinden because I didn't think it through to begin with.

Had too many crashes when handlaunch, always trying to use fixed gear (not even steerable) for test flight.

To be honest, I also didn't think it through when I glued the canards in. Right now, I set it level with the main wings which has a little dihidral left. I guess a little trim will be okay on this first go around. Do you think the CG will remain the same or shift slightly? I had it at 3.5 in from TE with my stock Titan. Thanks

Originally Posted by ccsj

To be honest, I also didn't think it through when I glued the canards in. Right now, I set it level with the main wings which has a little dihidral left. I guess a little trim will be okay on this first go around. Do you think the CG will remain the same or shift slightly? I had it at 3.5 in from TE with my stock Titan. Thanks

If you are using elevon setup, several clicks up elevator would be a safer way to handlaunch in general. I almost always do this for any handlaunch.

Don't know about the torque during handlaunch, might be an issue for pusher with short wingspan. My F84F (tractor setup) needed no thrust angle; but my F7U Cutlass pusher need quite right thrust.

If your current pusher cg is the same as original tractor setup, canard doesn't need to help lift the nose, your current setup would be perfect. Most likely, after your modification, added nose weight and reduced tail weight will make your model nose heavier than original. If you are lucky, several clicks for up elevator might make her fly.

deleted... wrong forum/thread! Sorry!

I'm using eleven set up. I have to dig more foam and move my bat back to near cg. I also moved the receiver back away from all the wires hopefully take care of my lost of signal problem - will still have to range test. I think I will re-maiden her today. Thanks for your advice with up elevator clicks on hand launch.

Originally Posted by edwen303

If you are using elevon setup, several clicks up elevator would be a safer way to handlaunch in general. I almost always do this for any handlaunch.

Don't know about the torque during handlaunch, might be an issue for pusher with short wingspan. My F84F (tractor setup) needed no thrust angle; but my F7U Cutlass pusher need quite right thrust.

If your current pusher cg is the same as original tractor setup, canard doesn't need to help lift the nose, your current setup would be perfect. Most likely, after your modification, added nose weight and reduced tail weight will make your model nose heavier than original. If you are lucky, several clicks for up elevator might make her fly.

Got more reenforement tape added and some color strip for visibility. Hope she will hold up with my maiden today while I experiment with CG. Current CG with battery move back is roughly 4.5 in from TE (moved forward a bit compared to stock). Currently got 7x5 prop on with just enough clearance. May need to add air vent to cool the ESC in the nose as well.