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Old Dec 09, 2010, 02:20 AM
Registered User
Singapore
Joined Oct 2008
19 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KRProton View Post
I don't think you'll get a 29mm motor in there, but there are endless 28mm options. Go check out my blog where I posted lots of data and a chart with all the motor/battery/prop/Watts rating combinations I've tested.


Hi Tim,

Yes, 29mm motor will fit in nicely.
I am using the 29mm motor from Velocity :

http://www.velocity-rc.com/cgi-bin/v...40&cid=7&idx=1
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Old Dec 09, 2010, 05:47 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
KRProton's Avatar
Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,375 Posts
Oh, nice looking motor.

Thanks then! :-)

Tim
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Old Dec 17, 2010, 07:14 PM
VFA-132 Privateer
bri_877's Avatar
upstate NY
Joined Dec 2003
733 Posts
Didn't go searching through the multiple threads to check but this is pretty much like my Sunracer so I'm thinking Mega 16-15-3 with a 4.75x4.75 with a 3s 2200 has to be a stomping option..... Been done yet?
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 12:43 AM
Xtreme Nut
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Joined Oct 2005
2,046 Posts
Bri ... me doing it soon ... I think it will be a nice combo but doubt it will be stonking fast. The Mega 16/15/3 is 3,000 KV, if it were maybe 3,300 KV then it should raise some adrenaline.
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 06:21 AM
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upstate NY
Joined Dec 2003
733 Posts
Admittedly I am not one that has a great handle on electric setups. I typically see what everyone else is doing then follow that lead. I was curious about thoughts on that setup as it seemed to pull the Sunracer around quite nicely and I own those components. I'd love to hear what it takes to improve on it.....
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 08:08 AM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
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Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,375 Posts
Go to my blog and read the descriptions of how the Rifle flies at different Watts. Then open the pdf at the bottom of the blog and see what motors I've tried that provide the Watts you want. Other motors with kV similar to the ones I've tried should provide similar Watts. Your 3000kV motor should provide similar results to the ARC 28-35-2.5 motor I tried with a 4.75 x 4.75. Depending on the battery you use (Amps available - - - C rating x the batteries Amps = Current) you should get around 300W which is "nice."
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Old Dec 18, 2010, 11:08 PM
Xtreme Nut
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Joined Oct 2005
2,046 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by bri_877 View Post
Admittedly I am not one that has a great handle on electric setups. I typically see what everyone else is doing then follow that lead. I was curious about thoughts on that setup as it seemed to pull the Sunracer around quite nicely and I own those components. I'd love to hear what it takes to improve on it.....
Bri ... most of us who do not want to burn our systems will take this route! Its safe ... hehehehee
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 10:19 AM
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LVSloper's Avatar
Las Vegas
Joined Mar 2009
1,001 Posts
Too much right Aileron?

Recently purchase the Rifle; first flight required a large amount of right aileron - 1/8"; leaving very little right throw left. Any ideas as to why so much right aileron? I had checked the alignment of the wing and tail; checked out ok; lateral balance was off very slightly.
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Old Jan 17, 2011, 01:30 PM
Did ya'll see that?!?
Tony A.'s Avatar
Elizabethtown, NC
Joined Mar 2009
360 Posts
Check your vertical stab. Mine was leaning to the left real bad which made it really hard to level the horizontal stab with the wing.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 08:14 AM
R/C Electro-Gadgeteer
Tomapowa's Avatar
N.E. USA
Joined Oct 2003
812 Posts
Great review... but in your writeup/build instructions for the main wing, you mentioned "Z bends are used on the servo horn end of the control rod, while quick links connect them to the ailerons."... I think you mixed these up (Z-bends should be are used on the ailerons and quick-links are used on the servo horn, per you pics and GP's instructions)

Has anyone else noticed that the vertical stab on their Rifle is not molded perpendicular to the main wing?. I tried bending it back into alignment (left overnight in a home-made jig) but eventually over time, it bends back out of alignment. I think I need to send this fuselage back to Towerhobbies for a replacement.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 08:33 AM
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United States, CA, Petaluma
Joined Sep 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomapowa View Post
Great review... but in your writeup/build instructions for the main wing, you mentioned "Z bends are used on the servo horn end of the control rod, while quick links connect them to the ailerons."... I think you mixed these up (Z-bends should be are used on the ailerons and quick-links are used on the servo horn, per you pics and GP's instructions)
Thanks ... but I am not sure what you are saying? I followed the assembly manual (see B&W photo) and did mine like it said to do them.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 08:47 AM
R/C Electro-Gadgeteer
Tomapowa's Avatar
N.E. USA
Joined Oct 2003
812 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bajora View Post
Thanks ... but I am not sure what you are saying? I followed the assembly manual (see B&W photo) and did mine like it said to do them.
AH... I stand corrected... For some reason I thought you are suppose to used the quick-links at the servo horn, not the aileron connections (I might me mixing this up with one of my many projects currently on the bench).
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 11:59 AM
Registered User
Romeo, MI
Joined Jul 2003
149 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomapowa View Post
Great review... but in your writeup/build instructions for the main wing, you mentioned "Z bends are used on the servo horn end of the control rod, while quick links connect them to the ailerons."... I think you mixed these up (Z-bends should be are used on the ailerons and quick-links are used on the servo horn, per you pics and GP's instructions)

Has anyone else noticed that the vertical stab on their Rifle is not molded perpendicular to the main wing?. I tried bending it back into alignment (left overnight in a home-made jig) but eventually over time, it bends back out of alignment. I think I need to send this fuselage back to Tower Hobbies for a replacement.
You'd be wasting your time, and money, sending it back to Tower Hobbies...all fuselages for the Rifle have the vertical fin misaligned. Your kit should have come with an instruction sheet on how to sand it to allow the elevator to be mounted parallel to the wing. The vertical fin will still be misaligned, but at least a couple of the surfaces will be aligned properly lol.

My problem is getting the elevator to function smoothly. There's so much friction in the linkage I can't seem to be able to get it to center properly. The control surface always ends up, or down, slightly depending on the last input. Probably not a very good idea for a plane that flies as fast as the Rifle does.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 03:14 PM
Tim Lampe; Hobbico R&D
KRProton's Avatar
Champaign, IL
Joined Dec 2009
3,375 Posts
Insert the elevator pushrod down through the guide tube. Before cutting and bending the pushrod and connecting it to the elevator, just slide the pushrod in and out of the guide tube. It should move pretty smoothly (no, not as easily as it would were the pushrod and guide tube straight, but easily enough). If the pushrod slides easily, you should have precise elevator control and little binding if you make the bend where it exits the vertical stab correct. If you don't make the bend the correct angle and in the correct location that will be the source of your binding.

I have seen a few instances of debris (paint? glue?) deposited in the back end of the tube where it exits the vertical. What I do is run a 1/16" drill through there about a half-inch in. That will clean out the tube.

Once you have the pushrod working smoothly, it's just a matter of perfecting the bend at the back end to get smooth, precise movement.

My other personal preference is to extract the wood block from inside the fuse and mount the elevator servo to a sheet of 1/8" or 3/32" medium/hard balsa and glue the balsa sheet with the servo to the bottom of the fuse. This makes for a more secure servo mount that will also save a little weight.

But it's all about getting that bend perfected at the back end. If you forgo the elevator servo mount block as suggested, you can cut, bend and connect the pushrod to the elevator before mounting the servo. Then, with the pushrod connected to the elevator, move the elevator up and down by hand. Position the pushrod and adjust the bend until you get the best, "freest" movement. Once that's all fixed up, THEN go ahead and glue down your servo (with the elevator centered, the radio on and the trims centered).

Oh yea, I also coat the pushrod with a fine film of oil before sliding it into the guide tube.

If you mess up the pushrod or cut it too short or something, substitute a new pushrod from K&S .047" wire.

I have all this outlined with photos in my blog.

Tim

P.S. As I wrote earlier, perfecting the location and angle of the bend at the back of the pushrod is the key to getting free movement. But if you don't use the servo mount in the fuselage and glue the servo down as I suggested, then it doesn't really matter quite where you make the bend because now you will have the flexibility to position the bend precisely wherever you want by gluing down the servo wherever necessary to get the bend in the perfect spot. Then, it's only a matter of perfecting the angle of the bend which is done by trial and error. But, if you use the stock servo mount, once you make the bend in the back end of the pushrod, the only way to relocate the bend is by streightening the wire, then making another bend.
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Last edited by KRProton; Jul 13, 2011 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Jul 13, 2011, 04:43 PM
R.C. Aviation Fanatic
Razors edge 29's Avatar
Canada
Joined Aug 2009
19,440 Posts
I'd like to see this race the new Stryker
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