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Old Jun 28, 2010, 02:34 PM
Castle Support
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USA, GA, Statesboro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spidious View Post
Are the printable instruction wrong ? It says

Once it is up to speed flip into throttle hold and In the
Throttle Hold Screen slowly decrease the value pausing briefly between
each point until you hear the motor loose power & begin to slow go
no further!


Shouldn't it say the motor stops ?
You are in the first Head Speed for Set RPM GOV Mode in the set up. As you are in Set RPM GOV Mode, when the motor changes it should stop if you are in the lowest Head Speed... so yes , the exact point where the motor stops is what you are looking for.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 09:17 PM
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Thought I was correct...
Any idea on my other question above it ?
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 10:01 AM
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I think we talked after this post. Thanks.
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Old Jul 06, 2010, 09:15 PM
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This is the one I was referring to..The 500 ICE75 works great.. That is the one we talked about..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...2&postcount=14
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Old Jul 08, 2010, 03:09 PM
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ok i got mine to work but if you use the auto rotation mode that means you no longer have a normal mode that you can fly in right? cause it has to be 0% flat in normal to be able to use auto-rotation mode?
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 03:56 AM
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Gainesville, FL
Joined Dec 2005
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Hey guys, I'm having some issues with my autorotation bail-out setup. I first configured my ESC with the older software 3.253(w/firmware 3.2) and just tried it again with the the latest software 3.254(w/firmware 3.22). I'm doing this on a 700E with a CC 85HV and a Scorpion 4035-400. I've re-calibrated the throttle end points with the bail-out feature active, as well as when I changed my ESC's F/W.

The issue I'm having is that when I calibrate throttle-hold as per the video, the ESC will halt power completely however, the ESC acts as if it saw a 0% throttle input and reverts back to slow-start.

Now, I've actually tried calibrating throttle-hold in the exact opposite manner the video describes. I'll start with throttle-hold set to -5.0(DX7SE default) and INCREASE the value until the ESC starts spooling up, and then back it down .5%. When I do this, the bail-out feature seems to operate properly however, the ESC will NOT power down completely if I try to complete the auto. Meaning, it acts as if it is seeing a VERY low throttle input(like during start-up) and will cause the motor to chatter violently.

The arbitrary value I end up at when I calibrate throttle-hold according to the video is 15.5% on my DX7SE. When I calibrate throttle-hold as described above, the value ends up at 17.5% if I recall correctly. Any value between 16%-17.5% will allow the ESC to ramp power back up rapidly but again, I cannot get the ESC to power down completely.

What am I doing wrong?
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 06:48 AM
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Clyde N.C.
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HI Al,
Dont worry about the value difference from the old software (used when the vid was shot) as it will be a little higher with the new software.
When you calibrated the throttle hold did you use full voltage to the motor? IF you are using a gov. mode the esc needs to satisfy the set head speed before it will recognize the auto feature. I ran into this trying to calibrate my throttle hold on a 12s set up using only 1 6s pack & I got the exact same results.
Let us know if this helps & if not we will go from there.

Steve
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 06:52 AM
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Oh if you want to use one 6s to calibrate the auto feature on a 12s you can go into the Castle Link & change the voltage in the vehicle info section to 6s & adjust one of the head speeds down till you get within proper governing range (will be pretty low with the 12s gearing). Then make sure your on that speed & it will calibrate.

Steve
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 07:38 AM
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Joined Dec 2005
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Thank you for the reply.

You might want to go back and reread my post, I'm not sure that we are talking about the same thing when it comes to the different values. I calibrated my throttle-hold with my normal 12S flight packs. What I did was raise the throttle hold value to 25%, start in normal with a flat 0% throttle curve, flip on hold and let the heli spool up. Once the head got up to speed, I lowered the throttle hold value until the motor stopped. Otherwise, I did the calibration exactly how it was shown in the video. Like I said above, when I do the calibration in this manner, the ESC reverts back slow start.

Doing the calibration as I describe in my last post yields a HIGHER throttle value(remember nothing else has changed) and heli will spool-up rapidly as it should but once again, the ESC will never completely stop the motor.

I am running governor high mode.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Austria View Post
Thank you for the reply. I calibrated my throttle-hold with my normal 12S flight packs. What I did was raise the throttle hold value to 25%, start in normal with a flat 0% throttle curve, flip on hold and let the heli spool up. Once the head got up to speed, I lowered the throttle hold value until the motor stopped. Otherwise, I did the calibration exactly how it was shown in the video. I am running governor high mode.
So when you calibrated the throttle hold value your Idle Up switch was in the normal mode where the flat zero curve was? If thats the case thats why it didn't work. As soon as you flipped out of throttle hold the controller sees a zero value so its not going to do anything.
To calibrate it correctly arm the controller in normal where you have the zero curve, flip into one of the idle ups where you have a valid curve & the heli will spool up THEN flip into throttle hold & start the calibration leaving your idle up switch set on a valid throttle curve. Once the motor stops when adjusting the value in throttle hold & you flip out of hold the controller will see the valid curve from the idle up & recover as it should.
Hope this helps.

Steve
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 08:23 AM
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Gainesville, FL
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RS Rogers View Post
So when you calibrated the throttle hold value your Idle Up switch was in the normal mode where the flat zero curve was? If thats the case thats why it didn't work. As soon as you flipped out of throttle hold the controller sees a zero value so its not going to do anything.
To calibrate it correctly arm the controller in normal where you have the zero curve, flip into one of the idle ups where you have a valid curve & the heli will spool up THEN flip into throttle hold & start the calibration leaving your idle up switch set on a valid throttle curve. Once the motor stops when adjusting the value in throttle hold & you flip out of hold the controller will see the valid curve from the idle up & recover as it should.
Hope this helps.

Steve
Again, please reread both of my posts.

I tried calibrating my ESC EXACTLY how it was outlined in the video, and the ESC GOES BACK TO SLOW START when I calibrate it this way. YES, I am coming out of throttle-hold back into idle-up. It is only common sense that going back to a 0% curve will not work.

Now please try to understand this, as I do want to repeat it again. I HAVE BEEN ABLE TO have the headspeed recover as it should coming out of throttle-hold back into idle-up, that is not the problem. The problem is that I cannot get the ESC to "disengage" from the motor. AGAIN, when I calibrate the ESC in the manner I described in my FIRST post, the headspeed recovers, but ONLY when I calibrate it in that way.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 08:56 AM
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Just trying to help here - whether you like it or not trying to help over the forums just may require that you repeat yourself!
There are phrases in your posts such as "What I did was raise the throttle hold value to 25%, start in normal with a flat 0% throttle curve, flip on hold and let the heli spool up. Once the head got up to speed, I lowered the throttle hold value until the motor stopped."
That lead to the last reply . No mention of being in Idle up but only normal with a zero curve.
I'm trying to help here so please be patient - it takes it on both sides to find & solve an issue.

I'm going through the calibration process now with the same Tx & see if I can duplicate the issue.

Steve
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 09:47 AM
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Al,
Just did the complete calibration on the same Tx & everything worked just as it should. I came up with these values. ATV throttle high stick position is 101% & low is 121% (these values have 2 extra points added after the calibration was reached) For the Throttle Hold value it came to 16.5. Now when I do the calibration backwards as you did I come up with 19.5 for the motor to start but the throttle hold will not work as it should till I get back down to 16.5 so it seems there's a 3 point "dead band" if you will there.
When I manually set my throttle hold position to the same 15.5 you got when you calibrated per the vid. I still got the faster recovery rather than the slow start.

As a test what are you hi & low ATV settings? If they are what mine are (with the 2 extra points added) set your throttle hold value to the same as mine & lets see what we get.

Keeping the motor chatter you mentioned in mind - what PWM are you using? If its not 8kh please set it to that.

We can better trouble shoot this better & further if need if you will give me a call here at the office at 913-948-7582

Steve
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 12:10 PM
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Joined Dec 2005
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I apologize if I sounded a bit brash.

My high and low throttle end points ended up at 93% 123% percent respectively. This is also with 2 extra points added to each value. Throttle was calibrated with a linear, 1-50-100 throttle curve. I'm running 12kHz pulse width, for motor temp sake. FWIW, this setting has been working flawlessly for the past 250 flights. I can change it, but I'd really prefer not to.

I made this quick vid, hopefully it will help clear up some things:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OcgxNDuNmKQ
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 01:13 PM
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Al
I see what your talking about. When I calibrated just as you did (going up instead of down as in the vid) there was a 3 point difference on mine & you had a 2 point difference - 15.5 to 17.5. Can you try a setting of 16 & 16.5 & see if that gets it?
Just about every JR/Spektrum Tx I have calibrated have usually ended up with the exact same ATV & T.H. settings. Why yours are different on the high & the T.H. has me scratching my head. With past experience I can see a .5 difference but your 93 & my 101 is a considerable amount. Out of curiosity check the trim & the hover trim & see where they are at.

Thanks for your patience
Steve
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