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Old May 07, 2010, 09:40 AM
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radion 480 b motor

i need a motor shaft for the 480 b motor on a radion the pkz4418 for that motor is not the correct one, the shaft i need has a place for a c clip on the front of motor the guy at a main said you dont need that the magnets hold it together(well i said no way) im not a model expert but i do know the magnets do not hold the motor together. if you enlarge the motor you can see the c clip if you enlarge the shaft you can tell there is no groove for the c clip
and the pkz 4418 shaft has a extra flat spot ground into it and is over 1/8 inch longer than the one i have
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Old May 07, 2010, 12:39 PM
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There should be a collet in place of the clip to hold the motor together.
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Old May 08, 2010, 07:16 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
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Collets are normally only used for the prop adapter, to hold the prop and shaft together as they turn.

I don't have a Radian or a 480B motor but as I understand it that plane has a the motor in a "firewall mounting" with the motor behind a bulkhead, the fixed part of the motor is behind the bulkhead and attached to it with screws from the front, and the rotating part of the motor (the magnet housing) is inside the fuselage.

There is a plastic yoke/spinner base with the folding prop blades and that is held to the shaft with a collet. The large nut in the center of that is what tightens the collet and hold it all together.

The pulling forces in flight will want to pull the shaft out of the magnet housing, through the motor base, and out of the motor. If there are grub screws at the end of the magnet housing, those are what is keeping the motor together in use. And it there is a short section of the shaft visible there there may also be a circlip that keep the shaft from being pulled into and through the magnet housing.

If you have a shaft that is the right size (4mm?) and length but lacks the groove for the circlip, you can cut one yourself if you have the right tools. Here is a thread that explains how to do that:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1240725

The extra length on the flat is not of any consequence as long some of it is in the right place. And that thread at the link above also explains how to cut a new flat.

If you can post any photos of the old and new shaft maybe we can offer some better advice.

My understanding is that Hobby Zone will sell a new motor but not just a replacement shaft for a motor. Because of that, I would make a shaft for it.

If you want to do that, get a shaft that is too long (it may have the circlip groove on it), cut it to length and put the groove and a flat on it for the grub screws if necessary.

You can get shafts are Head's Up RC, RC Dudes, Lazertoyz, and a number of other online U.S. based, RC dealers.

Jack
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Old May 08, 2010, 07:26 AM
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Thanks guys i recieved a new motor for no charge yesterday. i never thought of cutting a groove in the shaft i have. and maybe a collet would work on this one too if theres enough room. again thanks for the reply
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Old May 08, 2010, 09:29 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
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If you don't have the stuff to do it yourself you could mail me the shaft and I'd do it and send it back to you. I could shorten the shaft too if it needs that.

I am in Maine, feel free to PM me for a mailing address if you're interested in that. No charge, you can pay the postage.

Jack
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Old Apr 01, 2014, 11:19 AM
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I'm about to replace mine tonight. Is there some special tool I need to cut the groove in the shaft? Can it be done other ways. This same motor is in my Albatross.
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Old Apr 01, 2014, 06:00 PM
Jack
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Look at that link I put in post #3 just above, that way (abrasive cutting) is about the only practical way to do that on a hardened and ground shaft.

Jack
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Old Apr 01, 2014, 06:32 PM
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Xpress meant a collar with a set screw.
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Old Apr 01, 2014, 07:27 PM
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I couldn't use the drill press because the Dremel body wouldn't fit close enough. My 3/8 drill had a ton of slop in the bearing.

The shaft is nothing like the original in the Albatross, with the exception of shaft diameter, every other dimension is off.

I had to cut 2 new flats on the back for the set screws on the can and let the extra 1/4 inch just hang out the back. That puts the groove for the C clip in the part of the shaft with 4 flats already ground.

Since I had to free hand the cut it came out much less than perfect. About all I can say is that the V shaped impression I could make is marginal at best for a groove to retain the clip.

About the best thing I can say is it will suffice since the front clip is nowhere near as important as the 2 set screws at holding the motor in place form the force of the shaft pulling forward...as with the prop turning.

Best I can tell it it is only for impact protection for the motor.

Parkzone dropped the ball here. There is a replacement shaft for so many motors but if you bought the now short lived, discontinued Albatross you are S.O.L. Thanks Parkzone.

I think this will work, as you know a new motor is almost $50 before shipping. One thing you will also notice is the prop will stick out another 1/16 of an inch since the turned down portion of the shaft is shorter than the original.

If you have a machine shop with a lathe, you will be fine at duplicating the original. If you are the average Joe that can't afford a $50 motor anytime, you will have to live with the shortcomings of this repair if you wanna fly your Parkzone Albatross.
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Old Apr 01, 2014, 08:50 PM
Jack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stemo99 View Post
Xpress meant a collar with a set screw.
I'm confused. He wants to cut a groove for a collar with a set screw? I assumed the groove was for a Circlip.

For collars I would just grind a small flat for the grub screw to bear on. That is described in that same thread too.

Jack
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Old Apr 02, 2014, 05:59 AM
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If the OP wants to send this out for machining so be it. But grinding a flat and using a collar with set screw would save postage, time and aggravation. Use a C clip it groove is present, if not collar w/set screw or better yet, both.
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Old Apr 02, 2014, 06:34 AM
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I just cheated the extra length out the back when I ground the flats. :
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Old Apr 02, 2014, 06:58 AM
Jack
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Adding flats and grooves is easy if you have a Dremel tool and the #409 thin abrasive cutting discs. There is a thicker disc that is softer and that does not work as well, it is OK for flats but nearly useless for grooves.

Chuck the shaft up in a drill motor, give it one light touch with a a #409 disc, and you have a perfectly useable groove in two seconds or less.

Jack
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Old Apr 02, 2014, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackerbes View Post
Adding flats and grooves is easy if you have a Dremel tool and the #409 thin abrasive cutting discs. There is a thicker disc that is softer and that does not work as well, it is OK for flats but nearly useless for grooves.

Chuck the shaft up in a drill motor, give it one light touch with a a #409 disc, and you have a perfectly useable groove in two seconds or less.

Jack
It works if your drill doesn't have slop in it. That snap ring is not critical IMO anyway. The can rides on a bearing... all you need is the grub screws... unless you crash...I don't see the need to worry about that. In an Albatross anyway. The Radian is a pusher? Maybe then you need it.
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Old Apr 02, 2014, 04:30 PM
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A new drill can be had for cheaper than a new stock motor.
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