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Old May 23, 2012, 09:18 AM
Lloyd Robinson
fishboy77's Avatar
USA, MO, St Louis
Joined Jun 2007
780 Posts
OK I have a few questions about hardware.

1) The elevator horn is tiny (about 10mm) and there is no slot in the elevator for it to fit into. Should I cut a slit in the elevator and epoxy the horn in? Or should it be glued directly to the surface of the elevator, which would seem like a really weak joint? I'm tempted to get something like this that is much larger and has more surface area that would allow a better glue joint and get the control rod down a bit more so it won't hit the screws that hold in the horizontal stab:

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXK107&P=ML

2) The aileron servo horns only screw in about half way before they get really hard to turn by hand. Should I torque them down to the base of the threads with pliers or should I leave some threads protruding?

3) The threaded rods and metal clevises for the aileron pushrods have a decent amount of slop in them. Do people normally solder or glue the clevises to the rods to eliminate the slop? Is there any reason not to just use nylon clevises?

Sorry about all the questions but this is my first nice molded plane and I want to get it right. I did check out the manual but my Slovenian is a little rusty.
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Old May 23, 2012, 11:10 AM
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United Kingdom, Wales, Monmouthshire
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Yeah, you need to dremel a small slot just through the bottom surface of the elevator and epoxy the horn in. 1/2 hour or 12 hour epoxy is best. I ended up making a larger horn from fibreboard for a bit more glue surface area and to clear the tailplane screws.

The brass ail. horns should be screwed all the way in, try cleaning the thread out with an m2 tap if you can. I also epoxied the brass horns in.

I normally wick some thin cyano into the clevis threads when I'm happy with the set up, to eliminate any movement. You want zero slop on the control surfaces for no flutter. One other trick is to put a very small drop of thin cyano (use a small screwdriver) onto the control horn pivot with the clevis fitted, hit with some kicker, wait a few secs then break the bond carefully using the servo. Leaves you with a cyano 'bearing' surface which takes the last tiny bit of slop out.

Hope this helps.
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Old May 23, 2012, 11:56 AM
Lloyd Robinson
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USA, MO, St Louis
Joined Jun 2007
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That helps a lot - thanks!
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Old May 23, 2012, 02:27 PM
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Pre-installed firewall? Not the same as the Mini-Hawk, Swift, (pick your name) etc

Good! One less thing to mess up (unfortunately I'm real good at that)
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Old May 23, 2012, 02:47 PM
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None of mine have ever come with hardware I use 2/56 sullivan clevises and threaded rod on ailerons, on the elevator a ball link at the servo and clevis at the other end.

Biggest thing is getting the linkages mechanically good, 100% servo throw should equal max throws, using EPA to tone down the throws should be avoided as much as possible.

On the ailerons, offset the servo horns so you get a lot more up throw than down, the wasp likes differential, and LOVES lots of spoilerons on landing. Ive posted my throws before somewhere in this thread
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Old May 23, 2012, 03:30 PM
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United States, OR, Portland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackosmeister View Post
None of mine have ever come with hardware I use 2/56 sullivan clevises and threaded rod on ailerons, on the elevator a ball link at the servo and clevis at the other end.

Biggest thing is getting the linkages mechanically good, 100% servo throw should equal max throws, using EPA to tone down the throws should be avoided as much as possible.

On the ailerons, offset the servo horns so you get a lot more up throw than down, the wasp likes differential, and LOVES lots of spoilerons on landing. Ive posted my throws before somewhere in this thread
What do you mean by Offset the Horns. ? I am so used to my big gas aerobats where we have to have the horn and ball link dead center of the hinge line.....now I look at all the builds on these speedsters, and guys have the horns all over the place.I only ask this cause I am about to redue the horns on the Swist with clevises and taller horns for better mechanical advantage ....I have my radio dialed way back with the stock horns they gave.I redid the one on the elevator about 3mm taller and it made a HUGE difference,hence doing the ailerons.
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Old May 23, 2012, 03:45 PM
Livin it UP when Im goin DOWN
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Norway, Telemark, Skien
Joined Feb 2010
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VooDoo: your servo arm should be angled slightly forward when the servo is centered.
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Old May 23, 2012, 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Arcteryxxx View Post
VooDoo: your servo arm should be angled slightly forward when the servo is centered.
Got ya ! So that is better then using the differential in the radio? That is what I have always done
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Old May 23, 2012, 08:09 PM
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New Zealand, Manawatu-Wanganui, Palmerston North
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VooDoo Child View Post
Got ya ! So that is better then using the differential in the radio? That is what I have always done
It's mainly so you get alot of "up" throw so you have heaps of spolier usable when you come into land. The Wasp loves it, the more you get the better.

As a positive side effect you get the differential mechanically built in
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Old May 23, 2012, 11:00 PM
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Schweeeet,I will give that a shot.....my 11X will probably get mad at me though, for not using it's capabilities
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Old May 24, 2012, 01:32 AM
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New Zealand, Auckland
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
None of mine have ever come with hardware I use 2/56 sullivan clevises and threaded rod on ailerons, on the elevator a ball link at the servo and clevis at the other end.
I used Dubro clevises at both ends on my current Swift, but do like Jacko's ball link to the servo idea. Will do that on my next one

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Old May 27, 2012, 05:22 PM
Lloyd Robinson
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USA, MO, St Louis
Joined Jun 2007
780 Posts
Well I was thinking about getting a HET 2W-30 motor for pylon style flying but after reading more of Jacko's and Voodoo's posts it seems that 2200 Kv is a little low for the range of cell counts that I want to use, 3s-5s. Looks like about 2500 Kv is the way to go. The HET 2W-25 gets good reviews but I've seen reports that it gets pretty hot even on 4s and on 5s they can start to come unglued. So I think I'll go for the Mega 16/25/2 green F5D. Supposedly that thing can take some serious heat. The problem is I can't find a good non-folding 36 mm spinner that will fit a 3.2 mm shaft. Does anyone have a source for these?
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Old May 27, 2012, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fishboy77 View Post
Well I was thinking about getting a HET 2W-30 motor for pylon style flying but after reading more of Jacko's and Voodoo's posts it seems that 2200 Kv is a little low for the range of cell counts that I want to use, 3s-5s. Looks like about 2500 Kv is the way to go. The HET 2W-25 gets good reviews but I've seen reports that it gets pretty hot even on 4s and on 5s they can start to come unglued. So I think I'll go for the Mega 16/25/2 green F5D. Supposedly that thing can take some serious heat. The problem is I can't find a good non-folding 36 mm spinner that will fit a 3.2 mm shaft. Does anyone have a source for these?
I bought this on ebay
(I have not received yet,I do not know whether it suits)
http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001224501
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Last edited by momomo; May 27, 2012 at 06:56 PM.
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Old May 27, 2012, 07:37 PM
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United States, CA, SF
Joined Mar 2008
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Fishboy,

There are various options that you can have on that custom MEGA.

Consider 4mm and 5mm shaft options if that works with other spinners.
......among other tweaks.


Gryph
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Old May 27, 2012, 07:49 PM
Lloyd Robinson
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USA, MO, St Louis
Joined Jun 2007
780 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by momomo View Post
I bought this on ebay
(I have not received yet,I do not know whether it suits)
http://www.leaderhobby.com/product.asp?ID=9394001224501
Wow, $1.26 for an aluminum spinner! I'd be surprised if it's balanced for 35k rpm but at that price I guess it's worth a shot!
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