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Old Jul 11, 2010, 12:08 AM
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HK--Phils.
Joined Dec 2006
898 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
I find it much more fun to fly an airplane that performs better, if that means a lighter battery and shorter flight times, just buy more batteries. These smaller batteries are generally cheap if you shop around, and if you are flying hard the shorter flight times give you a small rest in between flights which helps with fatigue and helps avoid doing dumb things and destroying your plane. Lighter flies better and slower.
jet, thanks a lot for the headsup, yes i'll be keeping the plane as light as possible, i don't need too long flight time per pack anyway.
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Old Jul 11, 2010, 06:44 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
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Joined Mar 2010
660 Posts
@boxhead - I picked up one of the Turnigy 2204-14T motors like you have but am stuck with trying to figure out how to get a GWS EP8040 prop mounted on the bloody thing...

Can you throw me a clue and maybe post a detail photo of the new motor on your plane?

Cheers.
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 08:19 AM
Look outside the Square
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Gosford, Australia
Joined Jan 2006
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Dirt, mate I use an 8043 on mine. Fits and flys well.

Bx
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Old Jul 13, 2010, 06:40 PM
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Burke, VA
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt-Torpedo View Post
@boxhead - I picked up one of the Turnigy 2204-14T motors like you have but am stuck with trying to figure out how to get a GWS EP8040 prop mounted on the bloody thing...

Can you throw me a clue and maybe post a detail photo of the new motor on your plane?

Cheers.
I have use the Suppo version of this motor on several planes, it's a great little motor, very powerful and durable. I drilled out the prop so I could insert a 10x32 rivnut, then I drilled out the inside of the rivnut to the dia. of the motor prop mount. It has been a while since I did this so I don't recall the size drill bits I used to accomplish this. I am sure you can figure that out, if not just pm me and I will go check this for you and let you know.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 05:11 AM
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Australia
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My 3d-hawk arrived yesterday bought on the 3-7-10 arrived 13-7-10 that was with the cheapest shipping very happy with that.building it at the moment when unpacking i noticed that both my kits came with 7x3.5 unlike boxheads hopefully finish it tonight.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 05:54 AM
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Gosford, Australia
Joined Jan 2006
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Hi Josh. My kit was supplied with an 8040 Prop and the instructions said a 7035 is supplied with the Kit. Mine might have been kitted on a friday afternoon knock-off time . Had a 7035 so tried both and liked the 8040 better on the C-20 motor. Individual taste I suppose. Good Luck with your Hawk.

Bx
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 06:16 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
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Joined Mar 2010
660 Posts
I think the kits are thrown together in a sloppy rush. Mine showed up with yellow heat shrink that would barely slip over the pushrods and no way I was getting the z-bends on at the same time. The foam also varied from 6.2-8.4mm (even on single pieces) which made assembly a bit fussy.

Mine came with the 7x3.5 prop, but that self-destructed on my first power-off landing (not rough, it slid) with the stock motor.

Thanks for the motor/prop tips guy. I'm looking forward to getting it back up in the air, harriers and controls felt pretty good on the first flight.
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Old Jul 14, 2010, 06:25 PM
...just an earth bound misfit
Dirt-Torpedo's Avatar
Joined Mar 2010
660 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
I have use the Suppo version of this motor on several planes, it's a great little motor, very powerful and durable. I drilled out the prop so I could insert a 10x32 rivnut, then I drilled out the inside of the rivnut to the dia. of the motor prop mount. It has been a while since I did this so I don't recall the size drill bits I used to accomplish this. I am sure you can figure that out, if not just pm me and I will go check this for you and let you know.
I did drill out the DD-8040 and I'm thinking to fill it with hot glue or acrylic glue and then jam it onto the motor boss/shaft to set the pocket. If that doesn't cut it I'll see about making a better insert.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 07:49 AM
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Australia
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I know what you mean about the heatshrink and zbends after about 30 mins of fiddling with them and trying to get them set up right i gave up and bought some control connectors and longer bits of carbon rod
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 09:11 PM
FLYING Better Than Drugs
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Thonotosassa, FL
Joined May 2007
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Mine arived last week and I have put together, but I have to say that as of now I'm not impressed with this bird. But I will still try a few more things before it gets stripped.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 11:45 PM
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what's wrong with yours?
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Old Jul 20, 2010, 08:47 PM
FLYING Better Than Drugs
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Thonotosassa, FL
Joined May 2007
268 Posts
I'm hoping that I just don't have it trimed just right , also seems short on power, I'm going to play with it more, before stripping it for the Electronics. I have an UZI X coming and if it flies like its big brother the UZI XXL whitch I have then this plane will just go away. I have never flown anything that flies like it.
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Old Jul 20, 2010, 11:40 PM
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got no issues with mine. enough power for me. pretty good for the price.
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 03:23 AM
Look outside the Square
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Gosford, Australia
Joined Jan 2006
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Sorry to hear that Oldfish. I'm the same as Micman. Still Happy with mine. Is their anything we could help you with.

Bx
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Old Jul 21, 2010, 04:48 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Saffron Walden
Joined May 2008
124 Posts
Need experienced guide please

Hi I'm new to the 3-D flying and do not have any experienced people around to help me with the first flight so need to get as good a flyer first time. This thread is great – thanks for the information .

Question to Boxhead

Do you have the dimensions and locations of the ESC, the Rx and battery for your plane please so I can copy them to get a good start out with your “known flyer”
I've seen the pictures that you included on this site (post 1) and also the ones that are included on the HobbyKing for this plane and notice that the servos on the HobbyKing picture http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=11339 are placed behind the trailing edge of the wing whereas on Boxheads pictures, they are underneath the wing.

I've read in the articles that there isn't a defined centre of gravity position but would believe that the 70 mm from the leading-edge would be achieved if the servos were placed behind the wing. (micman75 Post 31) whereas 56-58mm would be achieved ( Boxhead Post 30) with the servos under the wing
Do you have any comments or observations?

Also on the HobbyKing site it shows that the aileron horns are not placed close to the hinge but are set back. Again does anyone have any data about Servo travel and positioning of all the horns to achieve 3-D flight?

Looking forward to your responses.

Retiredbri

PS: is the tape for the aileron/elevator and rudder hinges applied to both surfaces?
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Last edited by retiredbri; Jul 21, 2010 at 04:55 PM. Reason: to add new question
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