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Old May 04, 2012, 09:31 AM
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Joined Apr 2012
116 Posts
Thanks Aj. I was thinking back on my EE days when I was a computer science major, and although these leads are a very narrow gauge I couldn't imagine anything that short causing a problem. But new to the hobby, so why argue. Thanks! I will keep with those 500's. Cheers y'all. My airplane is getting in on friday or saturday. Don't know when the servos and such will get in, in that hobbypartz has been sitting on my order since monday. Not sure what thats about, they are usually pretty good.

J
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Old May 04, 2012, 09:40 AM
Novice in training
JoshB's Avatar
United States, NC, Statesville
Joined Aug 2011
708 Posts
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Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
It is more than enough.
AJ
You must of posted this as I was typing. lol HK is already out of those servos though dern it. They must really be hot items.
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Old May 04, 2012, 11:12 AM
'tis nothing
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United States, CA, Napa
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by CPMBOY View Post
which work best or just the same.....1 ail or 2 ail setup (T8FG)?
No need for 2 unless you want to use flaperons, etc..
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Old May 04, 2012, 12:30 PM
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United States, CA, Napa
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by Eternalflight View Post
Shunyata,
Whats the recomended CG the manufacture sugest and what is everyone adjusting there CG too for best performance?
What flight times were you getting with one 2200mah.
I have my SkySurfer CG marked at 2 and 5/8 inches from the leading edge nearest to the fuselage - that's pretty much right on top of the spar. And I placed a mark 3/8" on both sides of that mark. If the plane balances within those marks, it will fly well. It's so heavy now it kinda of lumbers along and you have to use quite a bit of throttle while turning. I know some guys fly heavier, but I can't imagine it's a very pleasant flight. lol

I honestly don't recall the flight times on the heavy Bixler with one 2200. Probably around 8-10 minutes. With 2 I seem to recall last outing was around 15 minutes, bats down 70% or so. So, 17 minutes would probably be the max.
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Old May 04, 2012, 12:41 PM
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Here are three pictures I took to try to show where the servos are located inside my Bixler. The first picture shows the servo inside the fuselage, nesting inside a box-shaped recess; 2nd shows the rectangular opening in the side of the fuselage through which the servo arm extends/attaches to the servo rod/wire; and third picture shows the servo looking through the canopy opening.

The servos are only about an inch behind the back edge of the canopy opening, but I thought it would be easier to move them now (before attaching the two halves of the fuselage together), so they would be directly below the canopy opening; hence the reason for my original request for advice regarding removing them from the glue holding them; and later question regarding the locations of the servo rods/wires running through the channels on the outside of the fuselage.

I was considering moving them to a location similar to that shown in this post:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2633

And then constructing a platform of Balsa-wood above the servos on which to place the battery, ESC, etc. with the platform extending far enough front and back that I would have the option of moving components to adjust CG.
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Old May 04, 2012, 04:40 PM
'tis nothing
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United States, CA, Napa
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Originally Posted by BandS View Post
Here are three pictures I took to try to show where the servos are located inside my Bixler. The first picture shows the servo inside the fuselage, nesting inside a box-shaped recess; 2nd shows the rectangular opening in the side of the fuselage through which the servo arm extends/attaches to the servo rod/wire; and third picture shows the servo looking through the canopy opening.
.
I'm unclear as to why you'd move them from a V1 location to a V2 location? You're using up valuable space inside the cabin. If I was going thru all that trouble, I'd move them to the tail area and get rid of the stock control rod setup.

I've replaced servos located in V1 and it's not hard to do at all. A little patience and a thin flat blade is all you need.

Are you going to use this for FPV or just as a motor-glider?
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Old May 04, 2012, 05:05 PM
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United States, VA, Quantico
Joined Mar 2012
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I was finally able to get my SS brushed RTF above about 30 feet today, and it was from the extra power provided by a 3 cell battery I bought to replace the 2 cell that came with the RTF.

One problem that I've been having with both the 2 cell and even worse with the new 3 cell XT60 connectors, is that when I push the connection completely together, the receiver no longer works or gets the signal, and my control sufaces won't move in response to me moving the sticks on my transmitter during the preflight check. I have to leave a tiny gap in the connection for everything to work properly, and it was very sensitive with the 3 cell today. I would get everything working, and then barely move the connection down into the cockpit and it would quit working. The picture below shows the approximate position I had to keep the connection in, in order to have it work. Can anyone help me or tell me how to fix this problem?

One additional question. What kind of batteries do you use in your transmitter? Mine takes 8 AA, and it seems like I would burn through batteries pretty quickly if I kept it with standard alkaline. I see a charging icon and port on the side of my transmitter, but I'm unsure what kind of battery you could use with it. It is a BlitzRCWorks transmitter. Thanks.
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Old May 04, 2012, 05:29 PM
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United Kingdom, England, London
Joined Nov 2011
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@ AmishLou

If you have had the same issue with two different battery's then it sounds like you have a bad solder joint on your esc.
Try replacing the connector on the esc with a new one and make sure that all the soldering is good (obviously replace the heat shrink as well). If there is a problem like that then I personally would not fly it til it is sorted out. If it goes mid flight you could not only lose the plane, you could hurt someone.
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Old May 04, 2012, 05:56 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
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I second that it sounds like a bad solder joint or a bad connector. Really easy fix, just put a new one on, and heat shrink it. Then your done. Good luck.
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Old May 04, 2012, 05:56 PM
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United States, VA, Quantico
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dandos23 View Post
@ AmishLou

If you have had the same issue with two different battery's then it sounds like you have a bad solder joint on your esc.
Try replacing the connector on the esc with a new one and make sure that all the soldering is good (obviously replace the heat shrink as well). If there is a problem like that then I personally would not fly it til it is sorted out. If it goes mid flight you could not only lose the plane, you could hurt someone.
Do they come from the factory with bad solder joints? It has never quit working mid flight, just takes some fiddling with it on the ground before flight and it is fine unless I have a hard landing or crash.
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Old May 04, 2012, 06:02 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AmishLou View Post
I was finally able to get my SS brushed RTF above about 30 feet today, and it was from the extra power provided by a 3 cell battery I bought to replace the 2 cell that came with the RTF.

One problem that I've been having with both the 2 cell and even worse with the new 3 cell XT60 connectors, is that when I push the connection completely together, the receiver no longer works or gets the signal, and my control sufaces won't move in response to me moving the sticks on my transmitter during the preflight check. I have to leave a tiny gap in the connection for everything to work properly, and it was very sensitive with the 3 cell today. I would get everything working, and then barely move the connection down into the cockpit and it would quit working. The picture below shows the approximate position I had to keep the connection in, in order to have it work. Can anyone help me or tell me how to fix this problem?

One additional question. What kind of batteries do you use in your transmitter? Mine takes 8 AA, and it seems like I would burn through batteries pretty quickly if I kept it with standard alkaline. I see a charging icon and port on the side of my transmitter, but I'm unsure what kind of battery you could use with it. It is a BlitzRCWorks transmitter. Thanks.
Thats a deans knock off connector. The XT60 looks like the pic below.
Like elcid79 said, resoder the connectors.

For the TX, the eneloop batteries are about the best out there for rechargeables.

http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-eneloop-...6168560&sr=1-1
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Old May 04, 2012, 06:03 PM
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United Kingdom, England, London
Joined Nov 2011
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No, they don't normally come with bad solder joints, but it is possible. It is also the cheapest thing for you to replace at the moment which could potentially same you the money of a new esc.
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Old May 04, 2012, 06:07 PM
Better then Sliced Bread!
NorCalMatCat's Avatar
United States, CA, Arcata
Joined Oct 2011
2,650 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Thats a deans knock off connector. The XT60 looks like the pic below.
Like elcid79 said, resoder the connectors.

For the TX, the eneloop batteries are about the best out there for rechargeables.

http://www.amazon.com/Sanyo-eneloop-...6168560&sr=1-1
Wow that is a horrible knock off :P I have knock-off xt60s that work quite well, definitely not as good as real xt60s which I also have some of, though the biggest difference is how soft they can be under heat when soldering.
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Old May 04, 2012, 06:48 PM
'tis nothing
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United States, CA, Napa
Joined Dec 2011
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I've had nothing but bad luck with those T-connector Deans knock-offs. Got rid of them all. Authentic Deans cost only a tiny bit more...
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Old May 04, 2012, 07:06 PM
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Malaysia, Sabah, Kuala Penyu
Joined Aug 2011
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Just sharing...
How To Balance Point Range (2 min 41 sec)
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