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Old Apr 27, 2012, 08:38 PM
Better then Sliced Bread!
NorCalMatCat's Avatar
United States, CA, Arcata
Joined Oct 2011
2,650 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
Darn. I am sorry for your mishap. But, I am glad to hear you got rid of the vibrations. As for you antenna problem - would THIS work?
AJ
Or, maybe some super range with THIS?
OR
Pick one?
I am considering one of those 9db gain ones, though I have read in a few places that with RC link over 5db doesn't really make a difference, plus technically anything above 6db gain with my 1 watt amp would put me over the legal power output on 2.4, though not that I really care so much about that... I am also thinking about getting a 2.4 patch for when I want to really go long distance :P.

I can also say confidently that the Windsurfer parabolic really works too, the other day I was getting a bunch of glitches about 1.6km out, I put the windsurfer on my antenna and didn't have a single glitch all the way out to 2.24km (with exception to a few times when I was accidentally aiming wrong :P)
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 08:57 PM
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taz101's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Oxenford
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fabric8 View Post
Is there any logic or consistency with the model numbers of motors? From the specs on the motors, it seems like sometimes, the can's diameter or width or length is used for the model number. But I haven't been able to find consistency even within the same brand.

in a 2212-6 or 2826-6, what do the 22, 12, -6 mean? same for the 28, 26 -6?
Please don't start this again!!!!
Just go back and READ the last ten pages of this thread!!!
There is a couple of pages on it already!!!!
If you can't find your answer there go to the motor threads and ask there!!!!

LURCH
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 09:17 PM
Limited flyer
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Joined Dec 2011
412 Posts
Fianally got to fly out of town this week end, it was a real hoot, nice open spaces, tree line far away enough away to make no never mind. Did fly one maiden flight,{pz wild cat}, and the bix. One thing about the bix ,[bought it last year as a replacement}, well i put it togeather,just like last time,all controll serfices neutral, evry thing was normal,but it wanted to veer left all of the time.Tail plane is even with the front wings,i just can't figure out what's happening,Could be that one wing weighs more than the other. anybody got a clue with might it what be.?
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 09:22 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
Since you asked..I am going off topic for this one more post.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabric8 View Post
Is there any logic or consistency with the model numbers of motors? From the specs on the motors, it seems like sometimes, the can's diameter or width or length is used for the model number. But I haven't been able to find consistency even within the same brand.

in a 2212-6 or 2826-6, what do the 22, 12, -6 mean? same for the 28, 26 -6?
Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCalMatCat View Post
I think the -6 is because it is 6 pole motor... It is a 28mm diameter motor that is 26mm tall which explains the one model #, as far as 22 12 it could be internal diameter and shaft length? I really don't know for that one... I am sure one with digital calipers, some time, and a motor that is not installed could figure it out :P.
Ok. Keep in mind that the following explanation applies to the one motor manufacturer (RCTimer) that I know a great deal about:
The easy one - 2826-6 has an outside diameter of 28mm (27.7mm rounded up) and a length of 26mm and 6 winds of wire.
The not so obvious one - 2212-6 has an outside diameter of 22mm and length of 12mm OF THE STATOR (the armature if you will) and 6 winds of wire. the stator is not stated anywhere in their documentation. It is only seen in the design documentation that I cannot share.
Keep in mind that the above may or may not be true of other motor manufactures. I have not followed other manufacturers to that extent.
So, in conclusion, you were both right in several areas of your observations of this motor. I hope this helps you in some way.
BTW-As far a history goes, the 2212-6 was never supposed to be a part #. It was listed by pure accident and still carries forward to this day. No other motor in their inventory has a duplicate like this one.
Wonderment-I just got a 2826-6 2200Kv motor from HK. I wonder if it will have the same test #'s as RCTimer's motor? I will test in one day soon and let you know if you are interested. If the #'s are the same, I will disassemble it to see if it is exactly the same internal structure. So far, it does not appear to be manufactured by RCTimer.
AJ
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 09:43 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Limited flyer View Post
Fianally got to fly out of town this week end, it was a real hoot, nice open spaces, tree line far away enough away to make no never mind. Did fly one maiden flight,{pz wild cat}, and the bix. One thing about the bix ,[bought it last year as a replacement}, well i put it togeather,just like last time,all controll serfices neutral, evry thing was normal,but it wanted to veer left all of the time.Tail plane is even with the front wings,i just can't figure out what's happening,Could be that one wing weighs more than the other. anybody got a clue with might it what be.?
That could be. It certainly is a good place to start troubleshooting.
AJ
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:00 PM
Soon to be CrashMasterPhil
Rochester MN
Joined Dec 2007
755 Posts
Anyone running the Master Airscrew 6" x 4" ? I ordered the TGS 6x4e's form HK, but it could be a lifetime before they show up. I'm running the Turnigy D2826-2200kv if that makes a diff.
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:20 PM
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CPMBOY's Avatar
Malaysia, Sabah, Kuala Penyu
Joined Aug 2011
727 Posts
Almost there for the maiden...just a few touches here and there......atm all stock except the servos and motor mount. Still waiting for a motor upgrade (a few options here)...........wish me luck guys!!
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Old Apr 27, 2012, 11:56 PM
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Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,653 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by divemasterphil View Post
Anyone running the Master Airscrew 6" x 4" ? I ordered the TGS 6x4e's form HK, but it could be a lifetime before they show up. I'm running the Turnigy D2826-2200kv if that makes a diff.
It will work just fine.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 01:25 AM
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Joined Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
Yes. The fuselage is held together with double-sided scotch (cello?) tape. You can use a common table knife (dull) to "tease" the fuselage apart with no damage.
AJ
Unfortunately, my SS V2 (J-Power's) fuse is glued with a *REAL* glue - I see the residues of flexible glue on the cutline inside fuse.
Dull knife doesn't work so I have to use a sharp knife.
Any other nifty tricks before starting surgery? Thanks.
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 03:21 AM
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AshtonFlyer's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
try using a blade attachment for a soldering iron (hot knife) if you have one (start low!) - it sounds like it might've been hotglued
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 04:52 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,424 Posts
Spliting the fuselage

Quote:
Originally Posted by flybabo View Post
Unfortunately, my SS V2 (J-Power's) fuse is glued with a *REAL* glue - I see the residues of flexible glue on the cutline inside fuse.
Dull knife doesn't work so I have to use a sharp knife.
Any other nifty tricks before starting surgery? Thanks.
I apologize for the advice. Your fuselage is the first that I have heard of that is put together with real glue. Of course, I have never done one like yours. But, what I would do is cut the fuselage about 1/8" or so away from the existing joint so you can have a very clean cut. Then, you should be able to use CA to put it back together without seeing any of the cut. I have done that with other planes and it worked out perfectly. I just have never done it with a SkyS/Bix. Let us know what you finally do and how it turned out (pics would be nice).
AJ
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Old Apr 28, 2012, 10:23 PM
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Eagle202's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
I apologize for the advice. Your fuselage is the first that I have heard of that is put together with real glue. Of course, I have never done one like yours. But, what I would do is cut the fuselage about 1/8" or so away from the existing joint so you can have a very clean cut. Then, you should be able to use CA to put it back together without seeing any of the cut. I have done that with other planes and it worked out perfectly. I just have never done it with a SkyS/Bix. Let us know what you finally do and how it turned out (pics would be nice).
AJ
I have a V2 and all I can tell you is that the fuse is really held together. Even after a very hard nose impact the seam on the bottom did not come apart or show any separation. There was just a very small section that slit right at the opening where the canopy goes into. I hope I don't ever have to operate but if I do I will try the heated blade.
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 04:03 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
1 Posts
Bixler FMS

Quote:
Originally Posted by Virginia Jim View Post
I hope that I didn't miss this information, but I did a search of this thread, and I couldn't find a specific reference to a source for a "model" installable on the FMS simulator that was designed to emulate the Sky Surfer/Bixler pusher sailplane.

Does someone know if such a "model" exists? Can they post the link here?

I have a Dynam 6ch simulator and both a Windows 7 and XP computer. I would LOVE to practice with the SIM before I buy my Sky Surfer.

Thanks.
VJ
Here is what you are looking for
http://www.dosyaupload.net/90Fms_bixler.rar
http://speedy.sh/Qc3Bx/Fms-bixler.rar
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 04:41 PM
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makind's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Morningside
Joined Apr 2011
143 Posts
i have D2826-6 + TURNIGY Plush 30amp + TGS Sport 6x4E

I can run some test if you are interested.

ESC gets very hot so i added some heatsink and i will see.

Maybe i have to add some UBEC. I realy dont want to spend more money on 40A ESC
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Old Apr 29, 2012, 05:28 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
a 30A is a bit low for the D2826. I use a 40A with switching BEC (I have 4 dig servos) - I don't know if Black Mantis ESC are global, but they are very good, run cool and pretty cheap (mine was ~ $30/E25)

Edit: apparently, they are Hacker/Hyperion 'clones' http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1333719
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