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Old Mar 11, 2012, 05:46 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
5,972 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ands View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Never cut the wire connectors off a brushless motor. The copper is covered with a varnish that is almost impossible to remove and get a good solder joint with.

...too late. Right, motor upgrade it is then
Cheeezzee...
Well if you already cut them...
Mix some aspirin and water to make a paste and insert the leads into it. It will eat off the varnish on the leads. Takes some time.

And next time don't cut em.
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 05:50 PM
wottree
United Kingdom, England, Exeter
Joined Nov 2011
302 Posts
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Cheeezzee...
Mix some aspirin and water to make a paste and insert the leads into it. It will eat off the varnish on the leads. Takes some time.

And next time don't cut em.
Thanks Man, lesson learnt

Will give the aspirin a try anyway, its given me a bloody headache!
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 05:57 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
5,972 Posts
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Originally Posted by ands View Post
Thanks Man, lesson learnt

Will give the aspirin a try anyway, its given me a bloody headache!
5% sulfuric acid will work also. (the fluid in your car battery) but it's a bit dangerous, Keep it in too long and it will eat everything...fingers, table, workbench ect.
Forget that and use the aspirin,
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 06:34 PM
wottree
United Kingdom, England, Exeter
Joined Nov 2011
302 Posts
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Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
Turnigy D2826-6 (2200kv), Keda A20-26 (1130kv) or emax CF2812 (1650kv) (last 2 sold by GiantCod) - all work well. 6x4 on the Turnigy, the other 2 work better with a 7" prop so some adjusting needed. All good budget motors.

Edit: which stock mount? Mine has the plywood-layered cylinder type.
Thanks Man, looks like GC has them back in stock, great price. Think I will upgrade to this though.
http://www.electriflite.co.uk/store/...26-101400.html

My mount is a Flat plastic. Will upgrade it at some point.

Thanks for the heads up on GC.

ands
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 08:16 PM
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Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by NorCalMatCat View Post
I experimented with flapperons and spoilerons, I didn't find much of an advantage and the loss of roll control is horrible at slow speeds, however if I get another Bix or mine comes back and is repairable, I think I will do split flaps .
Hmm. Haven't had problems with my spoilerons and control. Set to 60% and max thro on the ailerons it's ok. But it seems to make the plane float instead of sinkk. I may just fiddle with it some more.

I had a great time soaring in Livermore ( no motor for about half hour at a time). I need to force myself to practice landings but it's just too fun in the air.

J
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Old Mar 11, 2012, 08:33 PM
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Oct 2011
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
5% sulfuric acid will work also. (the fluid in your car battery) but it's a bit dangerous, Keep it in too long and it will eat everything...fingers, table, workbench ect.
Forget that and use the aspirin,
Interesting, never heard that one. In any case, if you can't tin it, don't solder it. I usually burn the lacquer off or take a little sandpaper to it if it's really stubborn. Never been too much of a problem though.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 02:13 AM
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Joined Jan 2012
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Nostrils!

The other day I was flying the Bix at the park and not a thermal in sight so I was on throttle the whole time (1/4-1/2) with a few bursts of full throttle for some onlookers and tricks. At battery change I noticed my ESC had heated enough to melt the glue on the sticky back velcro I use to hold in in place.

I needed to add cooling and didn't want to add too much drag. I've seen some options mentioned earlier with pill bottles and stuff but wanted something cleaner and more aerodynamic.

I gave her nostrils.
Sharpened an acid flux brush ( hollow metal tube) and used it to drill the nostrils and the exits at the tail. The nostrils looked good but the tail looks sloppy.

After a bunch of stunting and fast passes today checked the ESC and it was cool as could be and still in place.

J
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 02:20 AM
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AshtonFlyer's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
You can clean up the vents with a rolled piece of light sandpaper - worked a treat on my EZ (exit vent beneath motor mount in pic)
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 02:27 AM
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I will try that.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 05:45 AM
wottree
United Kingdom, England, Exeter
Joined Nov 2011
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Originally Posted by Goldentaco View Post
I will try that.
Next time, try heating up the hollow metal tube. Worked a treat for me.

ands
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 06:54 AM
CURIOSITY Has Landed!
Fugitive_Bill's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
1,158 Posts
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Originally Posted by Dkumagai View Post
Interesting, never heard that one. In any case, if you can't tin it, don't solder it. I usually burn the lacquer off or take a little sandpaper to it if it's really stubborn. Never been too much of a problem though.
Yeah, I too never knew there was a lacquer coating on the motor wires.
That sure is a tip for young players - which I am not, so I feel rather humbled for having not known that.
But does explain a few soldering problems I've had at times in the past!!

I too was thinking of cutting the bullet connectors off to extend the wiring to the ESC in case I need to replace the motor and/or ESC because the stock length makes the connection happen at point that is difficult to get at once the fuselage is glued together. So now I'm not sure if I should make some extension leads with bullets or just hope that when/and/or/if the stock motor blows hopefully I'll be able to fiddle around and get at the connectors with needle pliers to replace the motor and/or ESC.

Yes I'm gunna be lame and run the stock motor, I'm not exactly going to just bin the thing without even trying it, regardless that a lot of people say it's junk, I've given it a little bit of testing and think it has a ton power (well certainly high RPM being a 1900Kv on a 3s battery., however it does get ratrher hot with static tests, if it gets too hot in actual flight, I'll have too look at doing some of the suggested venting mods. The question is just how long will the stock 2690/1900Kv last and if I should just replace it with a NTM 28-26A 1200kv right off the bat to save cutting up the motor pod later on. However that testing has been done with tiny flimsy stock prop - I have several decent and bigger props on the way from Hobby King, they might load the motor up more and it'll show it's true colours - failure!?


To anyone gives a flying.... Below MODS I will be doing (Some of which are in the picture)...
(This is a Copy & Paste of my notes so I remember what the hell I'm DOING and to-do!!)

+------------+
BIXLER BUILD
+------------+

General Setup/Other
-------------------
* Receiver: AR6100 RX + HK 6Ch RX (On Hand)
* 4ch 2xRX Wireless Buddy Box System (In the mail from Hobby King)
* Battery: Nano-Tech 2200mAh 3s 35-70c (On Hand)
* Motor: NTM 28-26A 1200kv/250w (To be Ordered)
* ESC: HK 25/30amp or HK Red 40amp (On Hand)
* Lost model alarm: HK 'Be Found' - (Only works with HK RX's not Spektrum AR6100/6200!?)
* Gyro: Turnigy TG380 Airplane Gyro (On Hand)
* Glue plane together!
* Don't glue area of fuselage around motor pod - So foam on one side can be cut away if/when motor needs replacement.
* Go FLYING!!
* Get/update to decent FPV gear. (Current set up only has about 50 metres range - is cheap ebay crap bought years ago

MODS
----
- Remove washers from nose. (Done)
- Replace 4 x stock noname servos with Turnigy TGY90S Metal Gear. (To Do - On Hand)
- Run ailerons on separate channels for spoilerons/flaperons
- Insert 2 x 2mm solid CF rods into stock wing CF hollow rod. (Done)
- Wing securing mod - Square Magnets. (Done)
- 2.5mm CF Rod on bottom of fuselage. (Done)
- Replace prop with APC 6x4 or TGS Sport 6x4. (In the mail from Hobby King)
- Undercarraige - Single Main wheel in Fuselage (retract on servo!?-nope) and tiny tail wheel. (Done)
- Remove prop adapter and use collet adapter instead (To Do - Or if possible ream out 6x4 props to fit stock prop adapter)


TESTING (Set up = stock motor(2620 1900Kv?), HK 25a ESC, Nano-Tech 2200mAh 35c)
-------
Current Draw WOT :
Stock 5x5? = 14.7 Amp / 163 Watt / RPM
APC 6x4 = (TBA)
TGS 6x4 = (TBA)

That'll do for now! - Off to the field to fly other stuff now, then fix 'em when I get back! - Now that's Confidence!!

B!LL
-
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 10:20 AM
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makind's Avatar
Australia, QLD, New Farm
Joined Apr 2011
119 Posts
How can you peel off the fiberglass?
You will put some kind of vaseline on the fuselage before fiberglassing?
Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
I've just peeled away the new fibreglass bellypan.. will need a bit of stiffening, but should help reduce landing scrapes! Weighs 24g untrimmed.
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 12:19 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
No, I put clingfilm over first ('Saran Wrap'). It only sticks to the epoxy/varnish (trying both), not the plane - Leaves a nice smooth interior.

The epoxy version is a bit stiffer, but just a single layer has double the weight of the triple-layered WBPU varnish version - and is an absolute nightmare to use! The varnish is non-odour, water-based, and dries within an hour.

I'm going to build on the version in the photo; more glassing around the nose, and 1-2mm CF struts lengthwise between layers. To finish it for painting (acrylic spray), the final coat will be varish mixed with 'Lite' polyfilla (spackle?), then sanded smooth.

I aim to keep it under the weight of the nose washers I'll be removing shortly
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 01:06 PM
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LawnDartMike's Avatar
United States, OR, Salem
Joined Jan 2012
287 Posts
I understand the want for more crash protection but if we remove the nose "crumple zone" what kind of stress will that put on the fuse in the wing mount area if it takes a noser?
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 01:24 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
Depends how you fix the wings I guess. I tried a few things on my EZ and sheared the saddle off twice. This bellypan isn't rock hard, it may well absorb some of the impact but it isn't designed to prevent nose crumple. Think of it more as a bucket that holds all the pieces in place

The bellypan part is because I have a pretty rough ground (rocks, bushes, cows, cows***) so it's primarily to take the snags and yuk away from the fuse. Stiffening will help keep the fuse rigid along the length.
One side option is that allows the creation of nose-mounted camera platforms (smallfry stuff) by glassing over mouldings placed on the nose before you start ( a la Nimrod)

I started the trials on this because I saw the one pictured, and didn't have access or skill to vacuum form a mould.

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