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Old Oct 21, 2011, 11:20 AM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by aeronca View Post
I beefed up the wing spar by sliding and gluing a 4mm carbon tube (.188" from Tower Hobbies, actually) inside the stock tube. The assembelage is MUCH more rigid but with still a very slight flex. I don' think it will ever break!

Aeronca
That may be the best solution. I CA'd these strips in and the wings are like concrete. There's no flex at all. The plane is light enough that I'm not worried, but this would not be good on, say, full-scale for sure.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 11:23 AM
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United States, ND, Fargo
Joined Aug 2007
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
And 8mm CF strips from Kitesandotherfunthings or Kanuck Engineering, right? Doesn't the wing need to be beefed up still?
what I did was get some cheap easton bow hunting arrows with CF shafts, strip the plastic "feathers" off, and cut the ends off using a dremel with a CF reinforced wheel. it's a tiny bit thicker than the stock CF tube but it will go in to the holes with some elbow grease. probably heavier than stock, but I can't honestly see how in the world you would break it.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 12:21 PM
FPV ADDICT
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United States, TX, Austin
Joined Jan 2011
560 Posts
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Originally Posted by Papo_60 View Post
OK guys, I completed about 95% of my SkyS build log. I have it on my newly created blog. (Just click on Papo_60 to the left.) One would almost think I new what I was doing.... One thing I did is to creat several blog entries so comments to any particular build area would be confined to that post??? If that makes sense..

Anyway, if interested, please take a look & make any comments in the blog area. Especially if you find any corrections that need to be made &/or additions that you think would be helpful to people doing a similar build.

I plan to add a couple more pictures later today of the coupleted assembly & also complete the write up for the bind & range test.... But other than that I believe this build log is complete.. Hope you enjoy & let me know what you think.

Again though, any corrections or suggestions you come across, please use the comment section in the Blog. Don't want to clutter up this forum with such stuff.... TIA
Ron
Very well done build log!
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Sniper!

BTW, robbnj... your 72Mhz gear will have better range for FPV than 2.4Ghz stuff... longer wavelength and all that... so you're not as out of touch as you might think.
'Cept my 72MHz stuff is AM wideband...
Christmas is coming...

I remmeber when radio gear was so expensive, we'd re-build servos from parts after a crash.
Now you can have an FPV setup in the air for less than $250.
Just amazing...

I'm sure after I see the video from the keychain cam I'll be putting on my plane, the FPV won't be too far behind!
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 12:40 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by robbnj View Post
'Cept my 72MHz stuff is AM wideband...
Oops... oh... right...
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 01:10 PM
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New Jersey
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
And 8mm CF strips from Kitesandotherfunthings or Kanuck Engineering, right? Doesn't the wing need to be beefed up still?
..so I guess the answer is no thanks....

Could anyone please give me details on what/where to order for the replacement prop? Thanks
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 01:50 PM
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United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by DMala View Post
..so I guess the answer is no thanks....

Could anyone please give me details on what/where to order for the replacement prop? Thanks
With that question I take it you have not read the first page of this thread. There are oodles of good tips and recommendations including this taken from post #3

Quote:
16. Replace the prop with a TGS 6x4E prop. It is less than 1/2 as loud as the stock prop and produces 30oz of thrust at a paltry 11.8a.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 03:59 PM
Argue for your limitations
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Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
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WELCOME to the Thread!

Quote:
Originally Posted by DMala View Post
..so I guess the answer is no thanks....

Could anyone please give me details on what/where to order for the replacement prop? Thanks
Please read Page #1 - Posts #2 & #3. You will find a wealth of information from all the posters in this thread. Then, if you still have any questions, please come back here and ask your specific question. The question you are asking is so general that it is impossible to answer in less than 100 or lines/pages. It clutters up the thread to keep posting the same answer over and over again. So, go read Page #1 in its entirety and come on back and follow along.
AJ
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 04:04 PM
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A Barrier Island in New Jersey, USA
Joined Oct 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMala View Post
..so I guess the answer is no thanks....

Could anyone please give me details on what/where to order for the replacement prop? Thanks
The TGS 6x4 is recommended. Here's a link to one source:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=7936

Aeronca
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 04:55 PM
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The Netherlands, NB, Eindhoven
Joined Sep 2011
27 Posts
I just got my RTF bixler today and build it this evening with some of the mods from page 1. I also took out the washers in the front with the hot water technique. But as I was trying to get the right CG with the 1300 mAh battery all the way up to the front I found that I actually had to put 3 of the 4 washers back in to get it right at 60 mm from the LE. Is this normal or did I do something wrong here?

I did add a little weight to the rear by adding a 2,5 mm carbon fiber rod to the horizontal stabilizer and one to the bottom of the plane as well, but I don't think this should have that large an effect on the balance right?
With my 2200 mAh in the front I didn't have to put in the washers but still, it had to be really as much forward as I could get it to get the CG right.

Unfortunately it is already dark now and I have to wait until tomorrow to maiden it
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 04:58 PM
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United States, NY, Wolcott
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Originally Posted by Rennuh View Post
I just got my RTF bixler today and build it this evening with some of the mods from page 1. I also took out the washers in the front with the hot water technique. But as I was trying to get the right CG with the 1300 mAh battery all the way up to the front I found that I actually had to put 3 of the 4 washers back in to get it right at 60 mm from the LE. Is this normal or did I do something wrong here?
Yea you are good. The 2200 weighs more than the 1300. These planes balance without washers and with the 2200 fully forward. Reduce the weight of battery and you add washers to compensate. No worries mate!

You might think about gluing some lead (or washers) to the 1300 battery to equal the weight of the 2200. That will eliminate adding and subtracting washers all the time. The batteries will be all the same weight. That is if you don't use the 1300 in other planes.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 08:01 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Yo Teddie...
Not sure I follow ya there, bud. Upwind puts a heavier load on the plane for the prop/motor to pull. &c.
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
'cept that, on the downwind leg (in the strong wind) you gotta ramp up the power to keep it flying. (Lift) But I see where you're coming from. Still, will be interesting to see the data on a chart.
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Look, I don't wanta go to war or nothin' over this but, this, and "get ground speed out of your head" ..... I don't intend to launch an airplane and just have it hover there in front of me until the battery wears down. I want to fly it thru the sky, and that means moving it over the ground, and that means ground speed is involved. And you can't sit there and tell me when there's wind involved - maybe I should say enough wind - that you don't have to increase power to the motor to overcome the wind. Well, you can tell me that, but I ain't gonna believe it! And when I say 'overcome', YES, you can actually fly it without increasing the motor speed to overcome the wind and just let the wind blow it further & further away but there's gonna be a helluva lot of walking involved to recover it. Me, I don't walk so good & I want to fly the plane back to me.

The bottom line is, flying into the wind (enough wind) WILL require increasing the power to the motor to get the plane back to me, and that will show on the log as increased consumption of power.
Look at it this way. The only way it takes more power is if you throttle up to get back faster. The plane will be flying 20-30mph airspeed. The wind will be 15mph or less. You will not want to fly in 20mph wind or better. (no mater what some claim to have done.) The plane will come back at the same throttle setting you used heading down wind.
The point is flying into the wind doesn't use more power unless you throttle up causing it to use more. You caused the power consumption to increase, not the wind.
If we do go to war on this I want to wear the blue helmet, you can wear the grey. I'll meet you at Gettysburg, PA.
and further more..... What is your first name?
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 08:17 PM
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New Jersey
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It's fair to say that I should read the first pages before of asking questions (which I did by the way), but also my post should have been read equally carefully...... and not everyone did.... so please chill out a tad before you shoot from the hip, thanks.

I did read on the very first page that the better prop is a TGS 6x4E prop, in fact I specifically mentioned it in my question. What I did not understand on the first page is the following:

"7. Prop Adapter - Use a 2.3mm for V1 & V2 BL."

With a Google a search I find very different adapters and I doubt that they would all be good:

example: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...03&pid=V748000

Vs http://www.amazon.com/Maxx-Adapter-2.../dp/B001AEUZHS

Vs the collet adaptors that come with the HK prop (aeronca, thanks for the link)

So that's why I wrote "From what I understand to get started I should get (...) a TGS 6x4E prop (and adapter? I am unfamiliar with how to connect airplane props)" (...)If necessary I can find the tubes and probably the horns on my own, but I have no idea what parts to order for the prop. "

You see? I asked which parts "for " the prop, not "which prop..."

So I am still hoping that someone kindly answers this original question, which does not require hundreds of lines/pages (whatever that means...) to answer.... thanks
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 08:58 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
5,967 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DMala View Post
It's fair to say that I should read the first pages before of asking questions (which I did by the way), but also my post should have been read equally carefully...... and not everyone did.... so please chill out a tad before you shoot from the hip, thanks.

I did read on the very first page that the better prop is a TGS 6x4E prop, in fact I specifically mentioned it in my question. What I did not understand on the first page is the following:

"7. Prop Adapter - Use a 2.3mm for V1 & V2 BL."

With a Google a search I find very different adapters and I doubt that they would all be good:

example: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...03&pid=V748000

Vs http://www.amazon.com/Maxx-Adapter-2.../dp/B001AEUZHS

Vs the collet adaptors that come with the HK prop (aeronca, thanks for the link)

So that's why I wrote "From what I understand to get started I should get (...) a TGS 6x4E prop (and adapter? I am unfamiliar with how to connect airplane props)" (...)If necessary I can find the tubes and probably the horns on my own, but I have no idea what parts to order for the prop. "

You see? I asked which parts "for " the prop, not "which prop..."

So I am still hoping that someone kindly answers this original question, which does not require hundreds of lines/pages (whatever that means...) to answer.... thanks
Hey D...wadda you from Jersey or sumptin?
The adapter you listed will work. The Amazon one with the grub screw isn't the best choice. They tend to be off center.
Here's one that is a collet type mount,,
http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...r-2.3mm/Detail

It's like the BP Hobbies one you linked to. Shipping is 2 bucks no matter how much you buy and its a great company to deal with.
It basically mounts like a drill bit into a drill. The nose cone comes off and the prop goes on.... you may have to enlarger the props mounting hole diameter to fit....use a reamer, drill bit or even a pair of scissors. Reinstall the nose (it threads on) and slide the unit onto the shaft. Then you tighten the nose up real tight and the collets crush onto the motor shaft. The hole in the nose cone is for a small screw drive or drill bit to fit into to give you leverage to tighten.
Once you have it in hand it will be very obvious how to do it.
When mounting the prop convex side faces the front of the plane. Work on it with the battery out of the plane and don't try to dry your cat in the microwave.
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 09:01 PM
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Parma, Ohio
Joined May 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMala View Post
It's fair to say that I should read the first pages before of asking questions (which I did by the way), but also my post should have been read equally carefully...... and not everyone did.... so please chill out a tad before you shoot from the hip, thanks.

I did read on the very first page that the better prop is a TGS 6x4E prop, in fact I specifically mentioned it in my question. What I did not understand on the first page is the following:

"7. Prop Adapter - Use a 2.3mm for V1 & V2 BL."

With a Google a search I find very different adapters and I doubt that they would all be good:

example: http://www.bphobbies.com/view.asp?id...03&pid=V748000

Vs http://www.amazon.com/Maxx-Adapter-2.../dp/B001AEUZHS

Vs the collet adaptors that come with the HK prop (aeronca, thanks for the link)

So that's why I wrote "From what I understand to get started I should get (...) a TGS 6x4E prop (and adapter? I am unfamiliar with how to connect airplane props)" (...)If necessary I can find the tubes and probably the horns on my own, but I have no idea what parts to order for the prop. "

You see? I asked which parts "for " the prop, not "which prop..."

So I am still hoping that someone kindly answers this original question, which does not require hundreds of lines/pages (whatever that means...) to answer.... thanks
DMala, here is a site that you can get both the items you asked about. Headsuprc are great people, USA based and VERY cheap shipping
Here are the 2 items you will need:

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...r-2.3mm/Detail

http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...-6-x-4E/Detail

Collet type adapters work fine and I really prefer that type.

This should get you going. Good Luck & welcome to the site.

Ron
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