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Old Sep 26, 2011, 08:27 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Originally Posted by snookfin View Post
Has anyone cut the wings down on their SkyS? I'm thinking about removing the last 6" or so from each wing tip. Cutting it straight to the outside edge of the aileron.

I figure this will cut down on the stability, but I'm hoping it will allow the plane to roll better. Thoughts?
I haven't seen it done on this plane but it's been done on other, similar designs. The plane will roll like high speed drill.

Have fun.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 09:13 PM
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Tail Assembly ?

Hi Friends,
I've looked thru this thread but if the info is here I missed it.
I'm hoping there is a way to assemble the tail on a Bixler so it can be taken apart for transport. Has anyone found a way to do that?
Thanks
Jerry
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 09:46 PM
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Canton, Michigan USA
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Originally Posted by Jerry Campbell View Post
Hi Friends,
I've looked thru this thread but if the info is here I missed it.
I'm hoping there is a way to assemble the tail on a Bixler so it can be taken apart for transport. Has anyone found a way to do that?
Thanks
Jerry
Jerry,

If you used the thread search function and searched for "removable tail" you would have found this video. At 52 seconds you see the removable tail.

HobbyKing Bixler aka SkySurfer Mods, Maiden and Reboxing (8 min 3 sec)
#!
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Well, one woohoo for the day at least -- found out what's wrong with my Vado-cam!
Firmware upgrade fixed it right up! *knock knock*

Looking for some ideas (serious only, please) on how-to-film flights hands free....reason's hopefully obvious. What kinda rigs you guys rigged up??
BIG thanx in advance.
Here's what I do. It's my hat cam using a Jazz HD camera. I'm uploading a shot right now of my maiden but unfortunately, I forgot to check the camera angle beforehand so it's pointing a tad low. I can adjust the camera angle pretty easily.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by healthyfatboy View Post
Here's what I do. It's my hat cam using a Jazz HD camera. I'm uploading a shot right now of my maiden but unfortunately, I forgot to check the camera angle beforehand so it's pointing a tad low. I can adjust the camera angle pretty easily.
Inquiring minds want to know how you keep your hat from tipping forward with that 5.5 ounce camera hanging off the front of the bill of the cap. I have a couple of Jazz HD cams too, but darn, you are defying physics unless you have the back of the cap hooked to your shirt. Please explain.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 09:55 PM
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when replacing the control horns on the ailerons with new dubro ones, the pins on both stock clevis' broke. i've tried twice to get replacements from my lhs with no success so far (both too large an opening for the wire). does anyone know what size or part # the replacements would be? my LHS stocks dubro and great planes hardware.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by johnwohl View Post
when replacing the control horns on the ailerons with new dubro ones, the pins on both stock clevis' broke. i've tried twice to get replacements from my lhs with no success so far (both too large an opening for the wire). does anyone know what size or part # the replacements would be? my LHS stocks dubro and great planes hardware.

What do you mean by "pins"? Dubro come with screws. If you mean screws I have never seen them sell control horn screws. You'd be better off just buying some new packages of control horns.
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
What do you mean by "pins"? Dubro come with screws. If you mean screws I have never seen them sell control horn screws. You'd be better off just buying some new packages of control horns.
I think he meant the pin in the clevis.
AJ
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
I think he meant the pin in the clevis.
AJ
AJ,

I want a refund on my speed reading course. I missed the magic word clevis.

Bill
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Old Sep 26, 2011, 11:20 PM
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i don't know if I'll be able to make it to the hobby store tomorrow so I took the clevis' that were too large at the connection with the threaded control arms and filled the holes with epoxy. i'll wait until morning and hopefully I should be able to thread the control arms through the epoxy, and if needed, put a bit fore and aft to hold thier position after adjustment. i'll let you all know if that works. otherwise, please let me know what other clevis' will fit properly.
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Papo_60 View Post
Only reason I can think of for why you would want to reverse a motor shaft is if you cut it to reduce overall lenght you may want to have the factory finished end out front to fit the prop over??? Is there any other reason that would be helpful to know about???? TIA
Ron

Edit: I saw in some later posts that reversing the motor shaft will change the motor to a pusher, & another post says the Turnigy IIRC motor, has to be reversed. If the motor is BL, can't you just reverse the motor direction by reversing two leads???
There most be an advantage to reversing the shaft but not sure exactly why? Also, why do some motors make this a must if you are going to use it as a pusher?? Thanks again,
Ron
I think it's usually necessitated by which end the mounting's on & type of mount used (or needed to fit the vehicle) -- ie, so you can mount one end & have output shaft coming out the other. It's prolly more applicable to RC cars & such than planes.
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 02:20 AM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
It's close, but you can see a sliver of the blue background between the black & orange, so there's a gap in there....& look carefully & you'll see where the removed red crosses under the black so, might be perspective & could'a been better drawn but I think it's right. Compare to relative positions of the 2 black wires (see blowup):


Shouldn't confuse anyone anyway....all ya do is remove the red & just leave other two in place where they are.



You know, I am starting to loose faith in Castle. Now that you have blown that image up I can see that they have the ESC plugged into channel 1 on the receiver! You would think they would be a little more accurate with their illustrations.

Gord
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 02:39 AM
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Originally Posted by johnwohl View Post
i don't know if I'll be able to make it to the hobby store tomorrow so I took the clevis' that were too large at the connection with the threaded control arms and filled the holes with epoxy. i'll wait until morning and hopefully I should be able to thread the control arms through the epoxy, and if needed, put a bit fore and aft to hold thier position after adjustment. i'll let you all know if that works. otherwise, please let me know what other clevis' will fit properly.
You don't wanta lose the adjustability of your clevis, so get some pushrods with threads that'll fit the closest-size DuBro clevis your shop has, & clip the other end of the rod off to appropriate length to enable this trick.

You'll prolly have to clip off your old rod too. Slip a section of heat-shrink tubing on the rod, add some CA, slip the new rod alongside & slide the tube up to cover both, & heat it. This guy is using an 'L' bend rod to make rods out of carbon fiber rod, but it shows the principal:
How To Make a Carbon Control Rod (4 min 52 sec)


Yassir....that's the principal of the local high school thair, showin' the principle I's talkin' about.
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 02:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordks View Post


You know, I am starting to loose faith in Castle. Now that you have blown that image up I can see that they have the ESC plugged into channel 1 on the receiver! You would think they would be a little more accurate with their illustrations.

Gord
I do....DO, Ah say, b'lieve that's just for illustrative purposes, like sayin' 'Socket A' & 'Socket B'. And a 2-ch receiver? From Castle? C'mon!
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Old Sep 27, 2011, 03:00 AM
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Australia, VIC, Warneet
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Papo_60 View Post
Only reason I can think of for why you would want to reverse a motor shaft is if you cut it to reduce overall lenght you may want to have the factory finished end out front to fit the prop over??? Is there any other reason that would be helpful to know about???? TIA
Ron

Edit: I saw in some later posts that reversing the motor shaft will change the motor to a pusher, & another post says the Turnigy IIRC motor, has to be reversed. If the motor is BL, can't you just reverse the motor direction by reversing two leads???
There most be an advantage to reversing the shaft but not sure exactly why? Also, why do some motors make this a must if you are going to use it as a pusher?? Thanks again,
Ron
Ron it is all to do with how you wish to mount the motor. Obviously in any motor the rotating part where the 3 control wires come out of MUST be fixed and stationary otherwise you are in real trouble. This becomes a primary constraint when mounting.

Now does the shaft of the motor you wish to mount come out of the cable end or the other end and how do you want to mount the motor inside the nacelle(fuse) or outside?

They say a picture tells a thousand words so below the gold motor is mounted outside the nacelle whilst the black motor is mounted inside the nacelle. Now what happens if you want to mount the gold motor inside the nacelle and the black motor outside the nacelle. The only way to do this is to reverse the motor shafts given the mounting system that I have.

Hope this helps.
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