HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Sep 14, 2011, 05:02 PM
KC
Registered Loiterer.
KC's Avatar
United States, FL, Orlando
Joined Sep 2006
3,870 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
...clear canopy, with the predigers on the inside with the flipflops going to the inside..." ( I can't understand WTH he's sayin' ) - comes at the 2:15 mark if you wanta give it a shot, maybe translate or sump'n.
(Da bwah needs t' larn howta speak South'n!)
It sounded like he was saying that the servos and the pushrods are inside the fus.

Here is the 411 on the V3. (for those that may have missed this thread.)

Sky Surfer Version 3

KC
KC is offline Find More Posts by KC
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Sep 14, 2011, 05:30 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2009
184 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by protocol View Post
Hi All,

I have a bixler kit in box. A while back I got a deal on a couple of hawk sky motor replacement kits (bell style 2810 2300kv motor + 5x5 prop). From what I've seen, the hawk sky weighs about the same as the Bixler (600g or so). I can't find any other specs, including amps/watts.

Will this motor + prop + mount work for the Bixler?

Here's the combo, was on sale for $8 when I bought 2:
http://www.hobbypartz.com/60p-hawk00...10-kv2300.html

Still going through the thread, great info!

thanks!
I'd say you did great!! I had a couple of Hawk Sky's and the stock motor and prop worked quite well and will definitely pull the Sky Surfer around nicely.
If you want a little better performance try an apc 6x4e.
harry
moon12 is offline Find More Posts by moon12
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 14, 2011, 06:31 PM
Registered User
USA, CA, Pismo Beach
Joined Oct 2007
1,343 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KC View Post
It sounded like he was saying that the servos and the pushrods are inside the fus.

Here is the 411 on the V3. (for those that may have missed this thread.)

Sky Surfer Version 3

KC
That's the description of the V2 - and what ever "improved electronics" means.
Greywing is online now Find More Posts by Greywing
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 14, 2011, 08:06 PM
Earthbound Skyhound
StarHopper44's Avatar
United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
4,709 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greywing View Post
That's the description of the V2 - and what ever "improved electronics" means.
Yeah, really!
I've just sent a mail to a Customer Service Rep who's corresponded in here and mentioned "V3", asking for clarification. Will pass along what they say.
StarHopper44 is offline Find More Posts by StarHopper44
RCG Plus Member
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:01 PM
Registered User
Joined Jan 2007
1,926 Posts
So, after putting on the Blenderm as explained earlier, I have found that my ailerons (still need to do elevator and rudder) are stiffer than they used to be. Why is that? I have tried re-applying it a couple of times but it just seems very stiff now, which is what I was trying to get rid of by flexing them in the first place. I did try a change where I only put some tape on a few sections and that seemed to help but going across the whole length didn't seem to work out well in that the surface is stiff. I definitely won't lose the surface but I'm more concerned about servo life now.
healthyfatboy is offline Find More Posts by healthyfatboy
RCG Plus Member
Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:16 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
7,023 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by healthyfatboy View Post
So, after putting on the Blenderm as explained earlier, I have found that my ailerons (still need to do elevator and rudder) are stiffer than they used to be. Why is that? I have tried re-applying it a couple of times but it just seems very stiff now, which is what I was trying to get rid of by flexing them in the first place. I did try a change where I only put some tape on a few sections and that seemed to help but going across the whole length didn't seem to work out well in that the surface is stiff. I definitely won't lose the surface but I'm more concerned about servo life now.
I thought the out edge of my aileron hinge curved up with the curve of the wing, making the foam hinge stiffer. So I cut away the about 1/2 inch of the hinge where it seemed to be starting the curve. I thought it really loosened up the joint. But then someone else said if you look closely, the hings actually stays straight and does not follow the curve. Since mine was cut away at that point I cannot confirm or deny.

Point is, if the hinge does indeed curve up a little before the aileron ends, the tape is going to make it all the more stiffer. My hinges are pretty free. But also, I only taped one side. I figured, if the ailerons want to pull out that bad... well... let them go.
erkq is online now Find More Posts by erkq
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:19 PM
Registered Noob
protocol's Avatar
Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined May 2011
297 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by moon12 View Post
I'd say you did great!! I had a couple of Hawk Sky's and the stock motor and prop worked quite well and will definitely pull the Sky Surfer around nicely.
If you want a little better performance try an apc 6x4e.
harry
great news, thanks for the info, can't wait to get the bixler together!
protocol is offline Find More Posts by protocol
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:38 PM
Registered User
United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
7,023 Posts
So I re-maidened my Bix (ver 1 SS) after strengthening the wing with a solid spar an CF strips, locking the wings together, taping hinges, upgrading horns, etc to Dubro... simple stuff. But I also lined things up carefully, paid attention to CG (both fore-aft and left-right) and adjusted all surfaces to aerodynamic neutral.

I launched in stiff wind and it was FLAWLESS. It required no trim at all. What amazed me the most was the pitch neutrality with throttle setting. From full throttle to no throttle it wanted to fly straight and level. Of course, with no throttle it came down, but an a very nice shallow glide-slope... just perfect. What a complete pleasure. Very relaxing to fly, even in gusty, strong wind. Of course I've been flying E-Flight's little brushless UMX's exclusively up 'till now, so pretty opposite flying!

EDIT: after 10 min at 1/2 throttle 1093mAh went back into the 2200mAh 3S batt. So I figure 16 min flight time @ 1/2 throttle to 80% discharge. Not exactly a long distance flyer but good for my first FPV platform.
erkq is online now Find More Posts by erkq
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 14, 2011, 09:54 PM
Registered User
Prof100's Avatar
Canton, Michigan USA
Joined Jul 2007
16,275 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
So I re-maidened my Bix (ver 1 SS) after strengthening the wing with a solid spar an CF strips, locking the wings together, taping hinges, upgrading horns, etc to Dubro... simple stuff. But I also lined things up carefully, paid attention to CG (both fore-aft and left-right) and adjusted all surfaces to aerodynamic neutral.

I launched in stiff wind and it was FLAWLESS. It required no trim at all. What amazed me the most was the pitch neutrality with throttle setting. From full throttle to no throttle it wanted to fly straight and level. Of course, with no throttle it came down, but an a very nice shallow glide-slope... just perfect. What a complete pleasure. Very relaxing to fly, even in gusty, strong wind. Of course I've been flying E-Flight's little brushless UMX's exclusively up 'till now, so pretty opposite flying!

EDIT: after 10 min at 1/2 throttle 1093mAh went back into the 2200mAh 3S batt. So I figure 16 min flight time @ 1/2 throttle to 80% discharge. Not exactly a long distance flyer but good for my first FPV platform.
Very good report. It pays to do the little things.

With the stock motor angle the plane will pitch down when you punch it full throttle with a high powered setup like a Microdan 2505.
Prof100 is online now Find More Posts by Prof100
RCG Plus Member
Old Sep 14, 2011, 11:27 PM
Registered User
USA, NY, Endicott
Joined Oct 2010
227 Posts
Mods Completed

I completed a couple of mods on my V2 SS today:
  1. Ran wires from motor to fuse. Unfortunately the silicon wires I ordered from HK did not arrive so I used some elec wire (#16 awg) from our local elec store. They are stiffer than I would like but OK...
  2. Glued .157' dia CF rod inside 4mm spar using GG.
  3. Cut channel & glued 1.5mm CF in horizontal stabilizer..
  4. Opened fuse back to the canopy. Used the butter knife & a wood shim which worked better than the knife once I got it started..
  5. Took out metal cylinder from housing. Pictures below shows the metal cylinder in the SS & on the scale. Weighs 0.02 grams
  6. Cut foam out between fuse & round area where the metal cylinder was located. Third picture shows where I can now get a 1300mah battery farther forward, should I need too, to maintain 60mm cog.
  7. Mounted control horns to ailerons, elev & rudder.

Now I would like to use a clevis mounted to each control horn to manually adjust trim. Did not see a recommendation on pg 1 on how to do this although this method is suggested here. My plan is to cut & epoxy the pushrod (that came with the SS) to the rod (will have to cut this one also)that the clevis threads on to. Put shrink tubbing over the area epoxied & heat. Is this an acceptable method or should I be looking at doing this some other way??? TIA,
Ron
Papo_60 is offline Find More Posts by Papo_60
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:29 AM
Registered User
USA, CA, San Diego
Joined Apr 2007
484 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Papo_60 View Post
I completed a couple of mods on my V2 SS today:
  1. Took out metal cylinder from housing. Pictures below shows the metal cylinder in the SS & on the scale. Weighs 0.02 grams
TIA,
Ron
Good list. I think that scale says 20 grams = .02 kg Enough for 2 servos on a camera platform.
Reegor is offline Find More Posts by Reegor
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:42 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
V3 Bul***it

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greywing View Post
That's the description of the V2 - and what ever "improved electronics" means.
My concern is that the "improved" electronics will include a new transmitter that is inferior to anything they used in the V1 or V2. Just because it says V3 is pretty much meaningless without and in depth discussion of what it means. Based on their advertising, it seems the only difference between a V2 an V3 in the radio. Even the description on the link is misleading. The post wants us to believe that the servos and linkage + the pilot in the canopy is unique to the V3 which is, of course BS. Without further information on the radio "upgrade(??)", IMO, I am skeptical and cynical considering the crap electronics they have shipped thus far.
Does anyone have a picture of the transmitter that comes with the V3?? I mean an actual "hands on" picture - NOT one from their ads. Maybe we can do so comparisons of our own. Oh, notice that the V3 in only mentioned for the RTF of the SkyS. It is NOT mentioned anywhere else. Therefore, the only difference could be the radio is some way or other. As we all know, Beware of ANYTHING that has to do with BH. They are just short of being crooks as almost all of us know. I know there are several folks that ordered a plane and received it in perfect condition. However, Almost everyone who has had to contact for "after the sale" support is not happy.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:43 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Yeah, really!
I've just sent a mail to a Customer Service Rep who's corresponded in here and mentioned "V3", asking for clarification. Will pass along what they say.
Thank you. I (for one) know I can depend on you for that feedback.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:53 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Papo_60 View Post
I completed a couple of mods on my V2 SS today: [LIST=1][*]Ran wires from motor to fuse. Unfortunately the silicon wires I ordered from HK did not arrive so I used some elec wire (#16 awg) from our local elec store. They are stiffer than I would like but OK...[*]Glued .157' dia CF rod inside 4mm spar using GG.


Now I would like to use a clevis mounted to each control horn to manually adjust trim. Did not see a recommendation on pg 1 on how to do this although this method is suggested here. My plan is to cut & epoxy the pushrod (that came with the SS) to the rod (will have to cut this one also)that the clevis threads on to. Put shrink tubing over the area epoxied & heat. Is this an acceptable method or should I be looking at doing this some other way??? TIA,
Ron
1. I think you mean 6mm spar (stock)
2. There are many "right" ways to do that. Your proposed method is fine IMO.

Did you replace the stock control horns with DuBro horns?

AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Last edited by ajbaker; Sep 15, 2011 at 02:20 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Sep 15, 2011, 01:56 AM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reegor View Post
Good list. I think that scale says 20 grams = .02 kg Enough for 2 servos on a camera platform.
I was sitting here trying to figure that out. Thanks.
AJ
ajbaker is offline Find More Posts by ajbaker
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
For Sale Cyber Sky Parachute (Sky Surfer) shv2sail Aircraft - Electric - Airplanes (FS/W) 6 May 28, 2013 02:14 AM
Discussion Sky Surfer nickwayne11c Electric Plane Talk 15 Nov 18, 2011 02:36 PM
Discussion Banana Hobby Sky Surfer Problems cavy92 Electric Plane Talk 56 Nov 02, 2010 02:49 AM
Question Sky Surfer LiPo mod, help... Freight Dog Power Systems 0 Aug 17, 2006 01:45 PM
Swashplate Assembly with Center Ball; is this the swash with ball mod i want? tekforce Micro Helis 4 Feb 08, 2004 05:28 PM