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Old Aug 19, 2011, 08:41 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by Rattles View Post
Hi all,

It's been a week of firsts, my maiden bixler flight, my first RC plane flight and now my first post on RC groups.

...

I wrote this mostly to thank everyone here for all their posts and information, I couldn't have got off the ground without you all. Cheers. :
I watched the video.

1 - Having a nose heavy CG is important for a beginner. For a 1300mah battery pack, put all the washers back in and add a tiny bit of up trim.
2 - Take off at 50% power.
3 - Fly at 33%-50% power but remember that you can't climb steeply so you must keep the nose from pointing up. Stay away from full power.
4 - Don't over control (easier said than done!). Force yourself to use the minimum amount of stick to get something done.
5 - Immediately after take off and adjusting the throttle for flight power, trim ailerons and elevator for level flight. If you cahnge the power, you may have to re-trim.

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 08:50 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
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Originally Posted by scott page View Post
...
QUESTION FOR OLD TIMERS: I've been toying with putting one of the ballast washers on each wingtip to retard my camera plane's tendency to roll this way and that. Any thoughts on the efficacy of such a practice?
Not enough rotational inertia to be worth it and you don't want to add the amount of weight that would be worth it.

Solution is a gyro. It helps keep the wings level in the wind. Makes for better video from on board cameras for this reason.

I am assuming this is to keep wings level in the wind and not just to correct overly sensitive ailerons.

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 08:55 AM
Me a long time ago
Flypoppa's Avatar
London N.E. UK
Joined Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Not enough rotational inertia to be worth it and you don't want to add the amount of weight that would be worth it.

Solution is a gyro. It helps keep the wings level in the wind. Makes for better video from on board cameras for this reason.

Cliff
Don't tempt me Cliff. You know how I feel about gyros, girlies, and real men.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:01 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
#1 on the newbie list is "get an instructor if you can, even if you have to drive a ways"

A seasoned RC pilot has a mental picture of what the airplane is doing and flies the mental picture. If you are a long way out and flying perpendicular and you bank slightly to come back, you may not be able to tell whether the plane is slightly banked toward your or away from you, but you know that you banked it towards you. You are flying your mental picture.

Cliff
One of the major hurdles I'm seeing is the quickness (and extremity) to which the RC planes respond to control inputs -- they're much more responsive than the 'scale' turns, banks &c of real planes. Learning the extent & duration required is what makes the 'seasoned'! Another quality of the seasoned is the feel (or mental picture as you describe) of what the plane has done after your input, ie a better knowledge of the plane's orientation during movements.

I'll tell ya, at that "1 OS" altitude Mike showed me, without distinct motion it's hard for me to see it clearly, & even then --. I'll toss in that I'd always had "Eagle Eyes" but as my optometrist told me 6-7 years ago, "Your Eagle has landed!" *LOL* For a 'crutch', I know the next thing going on my plane (after the cooling ducts) is some recognition stripes on the wings!

Some time ago I told an Astronomy group of Binary Observers I'm part of, that for those getting towards the advanced years, "If you like double stars, you're gonna LOVE astigmatism!" For this RC flying, even my peeper-glasses ain't much help. Might hafta change my Bix designation from SBX-1 to SBX-1Z for 'Zebra', but them stripes is going on!

~Turning the page~
Post-flight inspection has turned up something else (minor) that needs fixing. Anybody know if CA remover is harmful to this foam?
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by messir View Post
Sorry guys if I ask same question.
Want buy Bixler, pls tell me:
1. whicg prop saver need for that.
2. Which ubec will good for ESC like on top of the thread.
3. Where can buy 3 mm fiber carbon tube.

If possyble give links on all of that.

Thanks
1- None. To hurt this prop you've got to try REALLY hard!
2- https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...dProduct=14310
3- Same place: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/...idProduct=6722
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:12 AM
Gravity impaired
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United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Solution is a gyro.
Cliff
+1
If the tool works for you, use it. Don't listen to others.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:13 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
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Originally Posted by scott page View Post
CG: I assume you removed the superfluous ballast in the nose. When I fly my camera on the nose I use a 1300mAh battery, when I don't it's a 2200mAh battery.
I didn't remove anything as this is a V2. I thought there was no ballast on this version.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
I did that from the get go yea, and have no heat issues. Also have cooling ducts.
I'm curious how it is without cooling ducts as well. Just bone stock except the UBEC. I'll give it a try when I finish up my build for Tim.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:18 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by messir View Post
Sorry guys if I ask same question.
Want buy Bixler, pls tell me:
1. whicg prop saver need for that.
2. Which ubec will good for ESC like on top of the thread.
3. Where can buy 3 mm fiber carbon tube.

If possyble give links on all of that.

Thanks
1. whicg prop saver need for that. from eBay, get collet type, not grub screw type
2. Which ubec will good for ESC like on top of the thread. from eBay
3. Where can buy 3 mm fiber carbon tube. Use 1.80 (not 1.88) inch size for Bixler and SS-V1. If I recall correctly, use .157 inch for SS-V2.

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:24 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
1- None (clarification: no prop saver). To hurt this prop you've got to try REALLY hard!
...
To run a non-stock prop like the 6x4 (helps performance) you need a new prop adapter because the old one:
- requires you to drill out the prop
- doesn't have many threads left to hold on with a normal prop

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 09:50 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by Flypoppa View Post
Don't tempt me Cliff. You know how I feel about gyros, girlies, and real men.
I am assuming the original post was about keeping the wings level in the wind and not just about correcting overly sensitive ailerons.

The only time I use a gyro is on ailerons to smooth out on board video in turbulent wind; and it does actually work for that. Helps to avoid air-sickness with FPV on a windy day!

It's interesting though that the roll coupling you get from a (nose heavy and up trimmed) high wing airplane combined with a gyro on the rudder axis gives the plane an auto-pilot like ability to actually level the wings on a Rudder / Elevator / Throttle plane. Pulling back on the elevator makes the wings level even faster. The down side is that you actually have to continue to hold rudder through the turns.

Just for knowledge's sake, one of these days I am going to experiment more with this; and put the gyro on the rudder axis, but hook it to the aileron servos on a 4 channel airplane.

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 10:01 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by yannc View Post
I didn't remove anything as this is a V2. I thought there was no ballast on this version.
V2 has a hidden and completely internal compartment for the weight. Hold it up to a strong light and look for a dark area right up front in the nose.

You might pry the fuse halves apart with some warmth and patience to separate the stickum.

I have a V1.

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 10:24 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
To run a non-stock prop like the 6x4 (helps performance) you need a new prop adapter because the old one:
- requires you to drill out the prop
- doesn't have many threads left to hold on with a normal prop

Cliff
Uhhhh...Cwiffy, he axed for prop saver, not adaptamater.


Side notes AFA boring;
I did 1 6x4 boreout so's could use stock prop adapter for convenient comparison of stock 5x3 to 6x4E upgrade without having to change adapters - a carefully applied 17/64 drill bit did the trick like it was made for it! Only took a very minor tweak (1 drop CA on hub) to balance almost perfectly; I'd rate it X-Fine balanced.

Stock 5x3 prop hub's thickness (front-to-back) is 6.5mm; 6x4's is 7.2; only 0.7mm more, or 1 less full propnut turn. From 'snug' state, my prop nut takes just a hair over 4 complete turns to escape the threads with the 5x3; & 3.0 turns for the 6x4: (1 less turn), then you still got almost 1/2 full turn (on both) to 'tightened' stage. I ran both props in my maiden tests; not even a hint of problem.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 10:56 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Originally Posted by scott page View Post
Cooling: use external switching BEC or UBEC. Install small small scoops NACA ducts up front and vent aft to move air through the fuse.

Y'know, I've thought it'd be neat to use those side holes for the rudder & elevator servos to mount scoops over. Problem is, they're behind the ESC mount. I'm trying to think up a way to route air forward from there, maybe with pieces of a milkshake straw or something, where they'd blow directly on the ESC.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 10:58 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Uhhhh...Cwiffy, he axed for prop saver, not adaptamater.


Side notes AFA boring;
I did 1 6x4 boreout so's could use stock prop adapter for convenient comparison of stock 5x3 to 6x4E upgrade without having to change adapters - a carefully applied 17/64 drill bit did the trick like it was made for it! Only took a very minor tweak (1 drop CA on hub) to balance almost perfectly; I'd rate it X-Fine balanced.

Stock 5x3 prop hub's thickness (front-to-back) is 6.5mm; 6x4's is 7.2; only 0.7mm more, or 1 less full propnut turn. From 'snug' state, my prop nut takes just a hair over 4 complete turns to escape the threads with the 5x3; & 3.0 turns for the 6x4: (1 less turn), then you still got almost 1/2 full turn (on both) to 'tightened' stage. I ran both props in my maiden tests; not even a hint of problem.
Yea, I assumed he meant prop adapter, not saver since a saver is not really helpful with a pusher; we know what assuming does...

The TGS props that I have didn't look like they would allow enough threads with my stock prop adapter, so I pried the stock prop adapter off and replaced it with a collet type prop adapter.

Cliff
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