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Old Aug 19, 2011, 03:00 AM
Me a long time ago
Flypoppa's Avatar
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Rattles. It seems that for a bigginer you have cracked it, well done.
I also love the bit of the tree rescue.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 03:17 AM
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FY21 Installed

I have installed a FY21 (stabilization and RTL but no OSD) on the SS and I love it! I'm not flying FPV but I wanted a "safety net" because I always try to go higher and further. I tested it yesterday and this thing is just unreal. This will be fantastic for AP, I will hopefully post some nice videos soon.

One question I have is related to the ESC. Even though the FY21 is not that big, it did add some weight (under the wing, right on the CG).

After 20 min flying, the ESC got very hot as the sticky part of the velcro melted.

This is the ESC I'm using:



What is the recommendation? Wire the ESC outside the plane for better cooling?

Another question I have is related to the CG. Beside the battery, I can't put anything in the front canopy because it makes the plane nose heavy. I have to stuff the Rx and ESC on the left of the servos to make my plane level on 60mm CG. My plane is a V2. Am I the only one with this problem? At the moment, it is fine but for instance I couldn't put a Go Pro HD on the canopy, it will have to be on the wing (causing a lot of drag) if I want to keep my plane level...
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 05:40 AM
Gravity impaired
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United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
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Originally Posted by Rattles View Post
Hi all,

It's been a week of firsts, my maiden bixler flight, my first RC plane flight and now my first post on RC groups.

I
First time videoing an rc plane? First time climbing a tree to retrieve your plane?

Good job on keeping it in the air. Some folks take much much longer than that! You will have it down pat in no time from the looks. As far as porpoising goes, AJ used to recommend 72 mm for the Bix but I see now he has changed that to 60 for all versions. Not sure why the change. Anyway, if yours is balanced at 60 you should be just fine and it's probably a matter of a little over control.

If you are using a programmable radio.you might consider using some expo. That tames things down around center stick but still has full deflection at the extremities. Futaba and JR are inverse in their settings on expo so be sure of what you are doing before flying it with that.

Welcome to the wonderful world of RC. Shine up that credit card and hold on.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 05:46 AM
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Originally Posted by yannc View Post
What is the recommendation? Wire the ESC outside the plane for better cooling?
Yep you could do that and it would certainly be the best solution cooling wise. Ducts in the nose and rear works for me though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by yannc View Post

Another question I have is related to the CG. Beside the battery, I can't put anything in the front canopy because it makes the plane nose heavy. I have to stuff the Rx and ESC on the left of the servos to make my plane level on 60mm CG. My plane is a V2. Am I the only one with this problem? At the moment, it is fine but for instance I couldn't put a Go Pro HD on the canopy, it will have to be on the wing (causing a lot of drag) if I want to keep my plane level...
Somewhere in this thread there was pictures of an access hatch cut into the bottom back under the wing. That would be an option too. Putting the battery back there would free up nose weight for other stuff. Whatever way you do it it has to balance out to be successful.

Found the thread HERE
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 05:57 AM
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ZFW - the real number

We've talked quite a bit about AUW or All Up Weights; let's talk some about ZFW.
The largest weight changing factor as I see it is the particular LiPo pack we choose, & that is a weight variable, and widely so. A better comparitive figure for gauging what our individual construction methods & mods added or saved would be our respective ZFW's or Zero Fuel Weights -- that being our AUW without the battery.

Why:
When I had my Bix ready to fly, as a lark I put 'er on the scale without the battery & was pretty shocked to find I was already well over the 650g Recommended Flying Weight (or RFW) published under Specs on the Bixler's ad page at HobbyKing. It made me go back & review all the mods I'd done, & found nothing out of the ordinary that would've put me there - I even re-weighed to double check & yep, the first weighing was confirmed. I presume the 650g RFW is with the stock supplied 1300mAh LiPo (which weighs 111g), meaning my battery-less ZFW is even more overweight!

So, I'm very interested in hearing how others' builds 'weighed in'. We have no way of knowing exactly what the Specified 650g weight entails (for one thing, it's a suspiciously "nice round" figure), but we can still use that as a Benchmark.

To summate, I'm asking others to rig their finished plane to flying config'n without your battery & weigh it. To cover our individual variables, please post your model of plane, ZFW, and perhaps include all the inividual thing(s) you did that affected your ZFW by more than 3-5 grams.

By the way, I weighed about everything as it came out of box so if anyone needs an 'unmodded' weight to figure against, just ask and I can probably supply it; eg stock 6mm wing spar weighed 11g; adding 4mm reinforcing spar w/epoxy added 5.5g bringing total to 16.5g.

I'll get it started:
Bixler (Ver 1); ZFW 512g for +57g over RFW.
Mods: Removed 55g nose weights, Added 5.5g wing reinforcing spar

How's yours stack up?
.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 06:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
Yep you could do that and it would certainly be the best solution cooling wise. Ducts in the nose and rear works for me though.



Somewhere in this thread there was pictures of an access hatch cut into the bottom back under the wing. That would be an option too. Putting the battery back there would free up nose weight for other stuff. Whatever way you do it it has to balance out to be successful.

Found the thread HERE
That's great, thanks for that. What I might do as well is fly without the cockpit to allow more air inside.

Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
We've talked quite a bit about AUW or All Up Weights; let's talk some about ZFW.
The largest weight changing factor as I see it is the particular LiPo pack we choose, & that is a weight variable, and widely so. A better comparitive figure for gauging what our individual construction methods & mods added or saved would be our respective ZFW's or Zero Fuel Weights -- that being our AUW without the battery.

Why:
When I had my Bix ready to fly, as a lark I put 'er on the scale without the battery & was pretty shocked to find I was already well over the 650g Recommended Flying Weight (or RFW) published under Specs on the Bixler's ad page at HobbyKing. It made me go back & review all the mods I'd done, & found nothing out of the ordinary that would've put me there - I even re-weighed to double check & yep, the first weighing was confirmed. I presume the 650g RFW is with the stock supplied 1300mAh LiPo (which weighs 111g), meaning my battery-less ZFW is even more overweight!

So, I'm very interested in hearing how others' builds 'weighed in'. We have no way of knowing exactly what the Specified 650g weight entails (for one thing, it's a suspiciously "nice round" figure), but we can still use that as a Benchmark.
To summate, I'm asking others to rig their plane to flying config without your battery & weigh it. To cover our individual variables, please post your model of plane, ZFW, and perhaps list any inividual thing(s) you did that affected your ZFW by more than 3-5 grams.

By the way, I weighed about everything as it came out of box so if anyone needs an 'unmodded' weight to figure against, just ask and I can probably supply it; eg stock 6mm wing spar weighed 11g; adding 4mm reinforcing spar w/epoxy added 5.5g bringing total to 16.5g.

I'll get it started:
Bixler (Ver 1); ZFW 512g for +57g over RFW.
Mods: Removed 55g nose weights, Added 5.5g wing reinforcing spar

How's yours stack up?
.
Interesting thread. I'll weight mine and report out. I have a 2200mah and a FY21AP on board. End goal is FPV but I like taking my time and adding one bit after the other.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 06:08 AM
Why so serious?
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post

Anyway, if someone would check theirs & let me know what they see, it'd really ease my mind.
TIA guys!
OMG, you got Farads leaking out of your Fixed Capacitor Bank!

Hide the wife, hide the kids........
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 06:43 AM
Me a long time ago
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London N.E. UK
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
OMG, you got Farads leaking out of your Fixed Capacitor Bank!

Hide the wife, hide the kids........
That's not Farads it looks like hot glue... Apply cold water to the leak.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 07:26 AM
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United States, NY, Wolcott
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
OMG, you got Farads leaking out of your Fixed Capacitor Bank!

Hide the wife, hide the kids........
No, that stuff is Final Farad Flux Finishing Factor.
FFFFF for those acronym freaks.

(It locks in your Farads)

Farad=
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 07:27 AM
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With all the talk about the ESC heating up in the fuse, has anyone tried installing an external BEC and disabling the linear one on the ESC and see if that makes a difference in the heat within the fuse? I bet that extra 5-7g from the extra UBEC may bring down temps in the fuse if the ESC is installed inside.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by healthyfatboy View Post
With all the talk about the ESC heating up in the fuse, has anyone tried installing an external BEC and disabling the linear one on the ESC and see if that makes a difference in the heat within the fuse? I bet that extra 5-7g from the extra UBEC may bring down temps in the fuse if the ESC is installed inside.
I did that from the get go yea, and have no heat issues. Also have cooling ducts.
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 07:55 AM
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Joined Jul 2008
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Sorry guys if I ask same question.
Want buy Bixler, pls tell me:
1. whicg prop saver need for that.
2. Which ubec will good for ESC like on top of the thread.
3. Where can buy 3 mm fiber carbon tube.

If possyble give links on all of that.

Thanks
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 08:08 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
I've attached some closeups & a macro of my overheated ESC showing something that concerns me - namely the 'beige' colored goo that looks like some kind of melted plastic covering the center 'can' object in the center & the component off to its side. I'm wondering if something inside might've melted out & hardened, or if this is something used during the assembly process like heat-sync paste or brush-on insulation or something. The main thing that makes me feel it's factory-related is the small, hook-shaped 'thread' you see isolated atop that black wire.

Would someone(s) please take a closeup look at your ESC on that double-can end & see if you see anything like that 'up in there' on yours?

Everything seems to be okay operationally, but I get a vague feeling the motor doesn't qui-i-i-i-i-te 'ramp up' as crisply as before when I peg the throttle. Maybe it's just my memory - I didn't really run the motor much before flying it....maybe 4-5 times & only a few quick seconds on each check.

Anyway, if someone would check theirs & let me know what they see, it'd really ease my mind.
TIA guys!
That is a type of rubber glue, used to reduce vibration. Without it, those capacitors wiggle back and forth with engine vibration and the leads eventually break.

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 08:15 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
I've seen another advantage to having a very experienced pilot like (my) Mike Fox at your side when you're in learning stage like me. I'm in awe of their observational skills & the little things they pick up on & just mention casually - there's a world of learning in those comments alone. For instance, don't know if you caught it in my video, but with one quip he explained something I'd seen dozens of times in other videos without picking up on the cause -- that when you 'gas' it the thrust angle has a tendency to push the plane down at first. To you Old Pro's that might come as natural as hair on your arm, but methinks it's something to keep well in mind while learning to fly the SS & Bix's.

Not that I'm pushing for more views on my videos, but I'd suggest other 'noobs' might gain something by going back & re-watching, and ramping up the audio (after my 'announcement outburst *LOL* - that still embarasses me) so's you can hear the things Mike says. Like I alluded - there's lessons to be had. And they couldn't come from a better pilot!

Also want to mention one other thing - speaking of 'observational'. At one point (off-video) when I's flying, the Bix got a little far out over that cornfield & I turned it to bring it closer. At the point where it was coming head on, with that knifeblade-thin profile against the clouds in the background - I absolutely LOST IT from my view - it was just plain invisible!!

My first reaction was to circle the area with my eyes where I'd last seen it, trying to project in my mind where it was headed & looking frantically along that route. Just as I started getting the queasy feeling of it suddenly reappearing right in front of my face I happened to think to ease back on the stick, & as it climbed out of its path she suddenly reappeared, right where I'd been looking. Whole thing happened in only a brief few seconds, but scared the livin' crap out of me just that quickly. *LOL*

I still can't get over the feeling of when I first lost it....it ain't a good one!
This learning thing's gonna be quite an adventure!
#1 on the newbie list is "get an instructor if you can, even if you have to drive a ways"

A seasoned RC pilot has a mental picture of what the airplane is doing and flies the mental picture. If you are a long way out and flying perpendicular and you bank slightly to come back, you may not be able to tell whether the plane is slightly banked toward your or away from you, but you know that you banked it towards you. You are flying your mental picture.

Cliff
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Old Aug 19, 2011, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yannc View Post
One question I have is related to the ESC. Even though the FY21 is not that big, it did add some weight (under the wing, right on the CG).

After 20 min flying, the ESC got very hot.....
What is the recommendation?

Another question I have is related to the CG..
Cooling: use external switching BEC or UBEC. Install small small scoops NACA ducts up front and vent aft to move air through the fuse.

CG: I assume you removed the superfluous ballast in the nose. When I fly my camera on the nose I use a 1300mAh battery, when I don't it's a 2200mAh battery.


QUESTION FOR OLD TIMERS: I've been toying with putting one of the ballast washers on each wingtip to retard my camera plane's tendency to roll this way and that. Any thoughts on the efficacy of such a practice?
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