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Old Aug 17, 2011, 12:13 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by G550Ted View Post
Whether you use Deans style , XT-60, EC-3, 4mm bullets, etc., if they are a non-locking friction fit connector a bit of dielectric grease will make them easier to connect/disconnect and will protect the very thin gold plating (minimizing resistance gain over time). I carry a small pill bottle of it in my battery (ammo) can and reapply when infrequently needed. This is an excellent product and I don't have to post a link to your local source. Just a little dab will do ya.

Ted
You use Brylcreem for this?

Cliff
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 12:14 AM
You can't take the sky from me
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United States, WA, Richland
Joined May 2009
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Back in the Day...

Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Sorry to keep harping on "back in the day" balsa models, but when I learned how to fly you simply didn't crash unless something really unforeseen happened, like a radio problem or a dead-stick. RC flying was very disciplined and so was learning. You had an instructor and went through the skills over time, advancing to the next skill only when you became proficient at the current. It was like learning to fly a full-size aircraft. You simply don't crash. I still have my COMPLETELY unscathed KOAS .60 from 1979! I NEVER crashed her, not even a wing-tip touch on landing.

But the culture has changed. Crashing is usual, expected even. It's the resilient aircraft we have now. I try things I never would have tried in the balsa days without completing the proper training. And I crash. And it's no big deal.
technology! Just a commentary.
Back in the day when I started in 1972 you were very disciplined because you spend three months with wood glue, epoxy, silk and dope -- working off of plans that were not in Chinglish -- in fact -- often all they were was a set pf plans..not instructions. We thougt we'd died and gone to heaven jin about 75 then Hot Stuff was introduces -- the first CA that I remember seeing.

We flew in circles.."procedure turns"... .large flat circles because a crash would result in weeks to months without the ability to fly. Most modelers were modelers -- not flyers. (I did not have the formal training part -- I was just scared to crash) That is -- modelers were craftsman -- an outside loop was a radical maneuver for a modeler. Flyers were few and far between -- and in my experience they were usually pretty flush with cash -- cash to pay modelers to build the planes for them. Sort of the original ARF.
Crashing could end the season -- especially if you built as slowly as I do. I make federal projects seem swift.

ARF;s changed that. Now inpatient flyers could fly and push their skills and WHEN they crashed it was quick to be back in the air... and push until the next crash. That's one reason 3D flying was able to develop. Now first year pilots are executing cuban eights, split-S - spins - knife edge .. and other aerobatics I almost never saw back in the day.

I busted up my 3 year old (balsa and ply ARF) biplane today .. axial rolling down the runway just about 3' up. I'll have an identical replacement in the air withing a week. Neither of those two things (low roll or quick replacement) could ever have happened back in the day. -- O - ya .. it ws an electric.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 12:29 AM
Space is the answer
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Australia, VIC, Warneet
Joined Mar 2011
368 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
You have an EasyCap as I recall. It comes with Ulead video editor. I would go with that until I proved that I needed something different.

I have not used it myself though. I use Linux and some simple free software (many flavors, I have not tried them all) that comes with it.

Cliff
What's an EasyCap, Cliff?
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 12:38 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Man, talk about a time! Been up all night uploading those 2 videos; 2nd one got somewhere over halfway up & failed for some unknown reason....tho I suspect my unmoved laptop might've gone into hibernation & spoiled it. Had to start all over again & it finally finished at 3:20 this morning. Then edited to smooth out beginnings & ends - trimmed a few secs off of both & hit 'Publish', and the 1st one is STILL "being processed".

Does uploading videos usually take that kinda time? My file format is AVI if that makes a difference. These were my first two uploads, so am unexperienced 'til now, & sure don't like what I've found! Anybody who has any tips about how to speed up the process or any other YouTube advice PLEASE send me a PM - I'm all ears!!!
AVI's coming off those keyfob cameras are not compressed much. If you are sending a 500mb file, you should expect it to take hours on a typical 512k uplink. Before you cable modem guys chime in and brag about your speed, yes some connections are a LOT (like 10x) faster.

If you know your uplink speed, say it is 512k. That is 512k bits per second. With overhead and 8 bits per byte figure 10 bits per byte, which is 51.2k bytes per second or about 50meg bytes per 1000 seconds or 500meg bytes per 10000 seconds. There are 3600 seconds in an hour, so 10000 seconds is about 2 and a half hours.

You can compress your videos at home before uploading, but that also takes time and multiple compressions / conversions reduces quality.

Most people would edit their videos and have the editor spend an hour or so compressing with a better codec / settings before uploading. I expect that you are uploading your raw video and that is big and takes time.

Cliff
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 12:42 AM
ancora imparo
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Melbourne, Australia
Joined Jul 2005
6,128 Posts
Ted, not disputing that it works and it certainly makes them easier to connect and disconnect but I have always been puzzled by putting dielectric (Definition = non-conducting) grease on high current electrical connectors.

The Marine guys argue the corrosion preventive properties KEEP connectors in good shape but they never argue it improves the conductivity.

I'm assuming the grease gets displaced at much lower pressure than the Deans et al have when the connection is made but I would be interested if anyone has actually looked at what the increase in resistance is?

There is such a thing as CONDUCTIVE grease but that's not what we are talking about here I think???

Just curious - not arguing.

John
Quote:
Originally Posted by G550Ted View Post
Whether you use Deans style , XT-60, EC-3, 4mm bullets, etc., if they are a non-locking friction fit connector a bit of dielectric grease will make them easier to connect/disconnect and will protect the very thin gold plating (minimizing resistance gain over time). I carry a small pill bottle of it in my battery (ammo) can and reapply when infrequently needed. This is an excellent product and I don't have to post a link to your local source. Just a little dab will do ya.

Ted
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 12:56 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Sorry to keep harping on "back in the day" balsa models, but when I learned how to fly you simply didn't crash unless something really unforeseen happened...
I think it is more of a per club thing. Where I started, circa 1972, they didn't force you to take instruction. I foolishly wanted to do a lot for myself, and I learned the hard way, by crashing, a lot. I worked at a hobby shop when I got my driver's license at 16 and guess where my money went?

When you are a kid with time on your hands, you can build a decent balsa model in a week. I didn't go for looks, but functionality.

The good part about this is that I learned how to build really well.

Cliff
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 01:04 AM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
I think it is more of a per club thing. Where I started, circa 1972, they didn't force you to take instruction. I foolishly wanted to do a lot for myself, and I learned the hard way, by crashing, a lot. I worked at a hobby shop when I got my driver's license at 16 and guess where my money went?
They didn't force us either. But when you could have a WWII test pilot do a pre-flight, maiden flight, trim your plane and then TEACH you to fly, how could anyone pass that up? It was a sure path to success and he did it for a LOT of club members.

Scott: I know what you mean about craftsmen vs. fliers. This guy I wrote about, Walter, turned a lot of craftsmen into fliers. They did take real flying lessons from him and were very successful.

Thanks for indulging in the OT, guys... it's fun for me. But I don't want to overstay the OT welcome. I do have a Bix now, afterall.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 01:06 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Originally Posted by ozair View Post
What's an EasyCap, Cliff?
Sorry, I had you confused with someone else (Orcoz) that has an EasyCap ($7 video to usb converter that you use to capture and live display your video on a laptop with).

Cliff
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 01:15 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jj604 View Post
Ted, not disputing that it works and it certainly makes them easier to connect and disconnect but I have always been puzzled by putting dielectric (Definition = non-conducting) grease on high current electrical connectors.

The Marine guys argue the corrosion preventive properties KEEP connectors in good shape but they never argue it improves the conductivity.

I'm assuming the grease gets displaced at much lower pressure than the Deans et al have when the connection is made but I would be interested if anyone has actually looked at what the increase in resistance is?

There is such a thing as CONDUCTIVE grease but that's not what we are talking about here I think???

Just curious - not arguing.

John
I am a tiny bit leery of regular grease too, having tried a tiny bit on some old extension cord plugs and had the grease blacken and even catch fire once (no big deal) with some heavy arcing due to a heavy load.

Gold doesn't corrode, but the gold plating does pit with big capacitors to charge up. Deans plugs sure plug in easier with a little grease.

Cliff
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 04:39 AM
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United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Hi all;
I've tacked on some close-ups below of my 'got 2 hot' ESC aftermath from my Bix's 2nd flight. This is the H.KING branded 20A ESC (blue label) that came with the RTF plane.

I've got a sneakin' suspicion what might have overheated it - gonna have to ask Mike (my test pilot) about something before I can narrow it down. Darn sure gonna have to add some cooling ducts tho!

Other'n the half-melted outer 'sleeve', there's no charring or darkening I can see on the board. I can easily re-cover it with some large heat-shrink tubing I have. My question is, is there any way of testing it (electronically or otherwise) to check if it's still in good operating order?
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 05:29 AM
Gravity impaired
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United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Hi all;
I've tacked on some close-ups below of my 'got 2 hot' ESC aftermath from my Bix's 2nd flight. This is the H.KING branded 20A ESC (blue label) that came with the RTF plane.

I've got a sneakin' suspicion what might have overheated it - gonna have to ask Mike (my test pilot) about something before I can narrow it down. Darn sure gonna have to add some cooling ducts tho!

Other'n the half-melted outer 'sleeve', there's no charring or darkening I can see on the board. I can easily re-cover it with some large heat-shrink tubing I have. My question is, is there any way of testing it (electronically or otherwise) to check if it's still in good operating order?
Did it give any indication of trouble when you were flying it? If not, power up the plane and test it that way. I bet it still works.If you can install it in such a way as not to hit anything metal you can leave the plastic off. That will help keep it cooler too. It would stay cooler outside of the plane or make some cooling holes and order your next esc just in case!

Maybe your friend has a watt meter he can use to test out the amp draw of your system......
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 06:25 AM
Earthbound Skyhound
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United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
Did it give any indication of trouble when you were flying it? If not, power up the plane and test it that way. I bet it still works.If you can install it in such a way as not to hit anything metal you can leave the plastic off. That will help keep it cooler too. It would stay cooler outside of the plane or make some cooling holes and order your next esc just in case!
I happened to think later after posting my question (coffee hadn't kicked in at the time *LOL*) I had something to check w/o having to ask Mike -- I went back & watched the 2d video & ramped up the audio so's I could tell. For the last couple of minutes of that flight, he hot-dogged it pretty good at high throttle. Long story short, burst time is ~10-seconds & that LiPo is 50C burst rated. At the point you can hear him say "It's getting weak now" (~14:40 in) I think that's when the ESC let go. I checked the Nano-Tech with my CellDIAG X6.5 analyzer and it still had 3.78/3.76/3.77V on the 3 stacks for 11.31V, and the health bars read 98% so there was still plenty of juice in the LiPo.

My biggest fear is if something internal is hurt, I don't want it to finish dying in mid next flight....so wondering if there's any way to check condition beforehand.
Anyway, I'll plug everything together & give it a 'live' test later, & see how she feels. And O yea....next flight she'll have some cooling ducts! Plus I've still got that 30A backup ESC, just in case.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 07:51 AM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
3,132 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Hi all;
I've tacked on some close-ups below of my 'got 2 hot' ESC aftermath from my Bix's 2nd flight. This is the H.KING branded 20A ESC (blue label) that came with the RTF plane.

I've got a sneakin' suspicion what might have overheated it - gonna have to ask Mike (my test pilot) about something before I can narrow it down. Darn sure gonna have to add some cooling ducts tho!

Other'n the half-melted outer 'sleeve', there's no charring or darkening I can see on the board. I can easily re-cover it with some large heat-shrink tubing I have. My question is, is there any way of testing it (electronically or otherwise) to check if it's still in good operating order?
That is exactly what happened to my Clouds Fly ESC even though the Clouds Fly has excellent stock air ducts, nice nose holes and a forced air exit in front of the pusher prop. It still ran fine afterward. I held the heatsink on after that with two zip ties with a 3/8 inch wooden dowel underneath for pressure in the center as well as the edges as I didn't have large enough heat shrink and I don't like the insulating effect of the heat shrink.

Since then, I have always mounted my ESC's,including the 30a in my Bixler, on the outside where they simply don't even get warm. I ran the 30a ESC in the Bixler gently for one flight with the ESC inside (no ducts) and didn't like the heat build up, although it was not enough to melt the yellow heat shrink.

Many ESC's have a built in thermal slowdown. The same "slowed down but battery was still charged" happened to a couple guys at my field with Cloud Flys. The ESC's were still good.

Cliff
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 08:58 AM
Gravity impaired
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United States, NY, Wolcott
Joined Nov 2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Since then, I have always mounted my ESC's,including the 30a in my Bixler, on the outside where they simply don't even get warm. I ran the 30a ESC in the Bixler gently for one flight with the ESC inside (no ducts) and didn't like the heat build up, although it was not enough to melt the yellow heat shrink.


Cliff
My SS has the 30a Turnigy Plush esc. After each flight I put my finger on it to feel the temp. It has never been what I would call warm even. I also have an external BEC so that load is also removed from the esc.....

I have mine mounted inside with a naca duct in the nose and a hole just in front of the prop for exit air. Works for me.
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Old Aug 17, 2011, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
I happened to think later after posting my question (coffee hadn't kicked in at the time *LOL*) I had something to check w/o having to ask Mike -- I went back & watched the 2d video & ramped up the audio so's I could tell. For the last couple of minutes of that flight, he hot-dogged it pretty good at high throttle. Long story short, burst time is ~10-seconds & that LiPo is 50C burst rated. At the point you can hear him say "It's getting weak now" (~14:40 in) I think that's when the ESC let go. I checked the Nano-Tech with my CellDIAG X6.5 analyzer and it still had 3.78/3.76/3.77V on the 3 stacks for 11.31V, and the health bars read 98% so there was still plenty of juice in the LiPo.

My biggest fear is if something internal is hurt, I don't want it to finish dying in mid next flight....so wondering if there's any way to check condition beforehand.
Anyway, I'll plug everything together & give it a 'live' test later, & see how she feels. And O yea....next flight she'll have some cooling ducts! Plus I've still got that 30A backup ESC, just in case.
Stick an external BEC on it and you'll be fine. You'll still have control even if you don't have throttle. It'll be safest that way.
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