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Old Aug 01, 2011, 11:48 AM
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USA, MN, North St Paul
Joined Jul 2010
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
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Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
Is there no body around where you live to help you out? Maybe someone with a similar sized plane with parts to exchange for troubleshooting purposes? Check out your area for model aircraft clubs. Those guys would be happy to help i'm sure. Good luck either way....
That's some very good advice....and I'd be amazed if around a city the size of St. P you couldn't find some club, or even hobby shop help.

A quick 'Goog' of: RC Clubs +"St. Paul" +MN produced this thread you might find of highly direct interest:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=68847
"...Lots of clubs and shops; ..."
You've not only got club info, but individual members of RCGroups you could PM & arrange face2face hookups with.

(And the more I learn of RCGroups the more amazed I am of the information it can provide!!)

One precaution I might offer....some shops (businesses) can get a little huffy if you haul in stuff you didn't buy there, wanting help for it. A preliminary call can help you feel out their 'attitude'. If positive, be sure'n get a name to ask for when you arrive, so you can continue the positive vibe. If negative - good info to hold in your heart re future business.....know'm sayin'?

And if they even TRY to help you....BUY SOMETHING! It's a two-way street.
I appreciate the advice. Actually, within the past year I joined two clubs -- the 3M club and MARCEE. The guys are great. But my situation led me to follow a different path.

I can't meet with anyone right now because my wife is sick (stroke +) and I can't leave her alone or avoid my non-RC tasks.

About an earlier discussion about why I don't want to do soldering -- I don't have a satisfactory workplace and workbench. But I agree with the philosophy imparted. Hopefully I can get to that project during next winter.

About my probably defective ESC:
I emailed the seller of my Sky Surfer PNP Saturday. (Tim at ReadyMadeRC) He replied the next day -- Sunday -- and will mail me a new ESC out of another Sky Surfer Monday -- today -- with an envelope to return the questionable one. Can't beat that for excellent customer service.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 12:03 PM
Pastor of Muppets \m/
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United States, TX, Odessa
Joined Mar 2010
967 Posts
Hey SH, I think we all got bixler boxes...just the outer brown cardboard box said skysurfer. Did it not on yours? Just curious.

Also, that tilt wing video reminded me of old (80's era) freestyle skateboard videos with the underground parking garage and the soundtrack and all.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 12:22 PM
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United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
...
To charge two packs at once, I charge them in series and 1x the charge rate, but 2x the cell count. I do that with the cheap adapter I got from HK. The adapter wires it up to make it look just like it is charging one 6S LiPo.

...[SNIPS]...
Think: that would have both balance pins 3 and 4 connected to the thick charge lead positive which would short out the top cell of a 3S LiPo as soon as you plugged it in. Understand that e.g. the first 4 pins of the 7 pin 6S connector are electrically connected to the 4 pins of the 3S connector.

Cliff
Big Thanks for that - I'm pretty much with ya, but charging up my packs right now (singularly this round) so can't get at the charger to lock your info in right now. BTW, I got the Turnigy Accucell-6 charger....pretty nice li'l booger it is, too! I've been watching tons of videos on its operations & finer points....even learned how to calibrate it (do you guys do this, or even know you could?) which, by the way, isn't even mentioned in the manual! And before first using, checked, & sure enough it was slightly off....and would have left packs charged to slightly less (0.2v per cell) than full capacity!

I had another thought re dual charging. First consideration of course is not surpassing charger's watt capacity! (In my case, that's 50W) But afa the balance ports & the 'extra' one from 2nd battery....thought to just plug one into the next-higher socket since same pin is ground for all sockets, & it might just read the occupied pins 1-per-cell. Will be easy enough to check without firing it up....just plug into 6S port & see if it displays 3 cell-volts & ignores the empties. I wanta do some multimeter circuit readings first though, including commonality with other sockets.

And finally, MAN! you're really pouring out loads of great information this morning! Keep 'em coming....I'm soaking it up like a sponge!!
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 12:34 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by StanHilliard View Post
# 1 - I do not have a programming card.

# 2 - I followed the procedure and the motor still doesn't run.
You don't require a programming card. You can do all the programming with your transmitter sticks, starting with a power on at high throttle stick, but hold the airplane tight in case the motor starts up. You must have the instructions to interpret the beeps. The beeps you have heard are the main menu, but there are sub menus too.

When you download and read the instructions, you will find things like:
- lipo cell count
- nimh battery type
- timing
that all could cause similar problems if set wrong. There will be about 3 to 6 settings, and you should set each one to a known correct value.

One common problem is that Futaba compatible radios usually need the throttle channel reversed so you may have inadvertently started out in programming mode and changed things in the ESC. Now you need the manual to re-program it correctly.

The fact that it beeps, and that the beeps change depending on where the throttle is set, is hopeful.

You really need to download the manual and try to program it and it must be the correct manual. If you have tried, but can't figure it out, the best advice is to find a local hobbyist or hobby shop person to work with you, but you will probably still need the manual for him to read. Perhaps make a video, so we can watch and listen, but you would need to post the manual, and a picture of the ESC markings with the video to get the best help.

If you buy another ESC, be careful to not move the throttle when setting it up. If you think you are in programming mode, unplug the power without moving the transmitter stick. Get the programming manual for it so that you know how to tell when it is in programming mode.

Cliff

EDIT: I see you had a good seller and swapped it out. Last comment still applies though.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 12:45 PM
Earthbound Skyhound
StarHopper44's Avatar
United States, NC, Richlands
Joined Jun 2011
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Hi back Stan;
Sorry to hear of your restrictive situation there friend....but hang in there & keep plugging away. As you know there's lots of swell guys in here all too ready to share their great knowledge....and one way or 'nuther gonna get you flying! And yes - Tim sure is living up to his reputation....and who doesn't mind spending a few cents more for that kind of service!!!



Quote:
Originally Posted by major.monogram View Post
Hey SH, I think we all got bixler boxes...just the outer brown cardboard box said skysurfer. Did it not on yours? Just curious.
Nope - pretty much plain brown wrapper all the way - see pix below, including gaping bottom closure.
MUCH better'n when my last girlfriend arrived, & the picture of the blowup doll on its outside pretty much gave it away!
::
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:02 PM
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United States, WA, Richland
Joined May 2009
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Originally Posted by major.monogram View Post
Hey SH, I think we all got bixler boxes...just the outer brown cardboard box said skysurfer. Did it not on yours? Just curious.

Also, that tilt wing video reminded me of old (80's era) freestyle skateboard videos with the underground parking garage and the soundtrack and all.
Our first Bix (early June) had the Ssurf brown box and inner box was Bixler. The Bixlers revived had plain brown boxes outside and Bixler boxes inside.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:20 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Simultaneously charging two 3 cell packs on a 6 cell charger

This is how one of those adapters is wired. I have also wired it so that you only need connect the balance connector, not the main power leads to charge. I wouldn't go over maybe 4 amps using the trick of a charge adapter that does not require the battery main power leads attached, and at 4 amps I would monitor the balance connector and wires for heat.

Do not connect the high power battery leads to anything. For low power charging with this circuit it is not needed, and hooking it up wrong or backwards can make things burn up.

This is small, delicate soldering, and quick neat work is important to avoid overheating and shorts.

For those interested in wiring one up by hand, it takes:
- 2 male (pins) 4 pin JST-XH balance connectors with or without wires attached; with wires attached will make it a lot easier.
- 1 female 7 pin JST-XH balance connector (with 7 wires attached)
- one set of connectors with wires (thin is easier) to plug in your charger where the charging battery's main power leads plug in, henceforth called negative and positive charger power wire, not to be confused with the wires that feed power into the charger
- a little extra wire of the same type as the balance connector wire or other multi-strand single-conductor wire
- small heat shrink tubing (or the paint on insulator for those that prefer it )
- a small soldering iron and solder
- a Volt Ohm Meter is nice

I am not going to tell you when to put heat shrink on. ALWAYS THINK AHEAD.

Instructions:
- Of the two outer pins (farthest left and farthest right) on the 4 pin connectors, determine which is positive and which is negative. You can do this by plugging it in a battery and measuring it. Don't short pins with the battery connected.
- Determine which wire is positive and which is negative on the 7 pin JST-XH. You can do that by comparing it to the one on the battery which has fewer pins. Again this will be the outer wire on each side.
- Strip insulation from both ends and the middle 1/4 inch of a say 6 inch piece (actually, double the length of the wire on your 7-pin is best) of extra balance connector type wire and bend it in a sharp V.
- Solder one end of the V wire to a "positive" on one 4 pin JST-XH and the other end to a negative on the other 4-pin JST-XH
- Forgetting heat shrink already?
- Place the two 4-pins on the table side by side and facing the same way, with the soldered places on the inside / closest together.
- One of those 4-pins has it's negative already soldered. Solder the positive wire from the 7-pin and the positive charger power wire to that 4-pin's positive pin (that was fun wasn't it, that is why you should have used thin charger power wires or 4-pins with attached wires). It is critical that you don't guess here. Be certain about which of the two 4-wires already has it's negative soldered.
- Solder the negative wire from the 7-pin and the negative charger power wire to the negative of the other 4-pin (which already has its positive soldered)
- Solder the middle wire of the 7-pin to the stripped place in the middle of the V wire.
- Solder the remaining 4 wires of the 7-pin to the remaining unused pins on the two 4-wire JST-XH's "sequentially" and "in the obvious places". The order is critical, but also obvious.
- Check with the ohm meter that you have no shorts. The only pin combination over both of the 4-pins that should have continuity are the two connected with the V wire.
- Plug two LiPos in to the balance connectors and measure the voltage and polarity on the "charger power wires". You should get 18 to 25.2 volts if your LiPo's are any good. Don't let any wires touch while the batteries are plugged in.
- Those thin pins on the 4-pins will break if flexed a few times so do something about that. I get a short piece of large diameter heat shrink tubing to go over it and usually fill up the inside back with silicone sealant too.

Cliff

Copyright 2011 by Cliff Geerdes
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:28 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
Found this on the EasyStar thread, from poster Gerry.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZL8AUawUXcA

Anyone want to try it with a SkySurfer/Bixler?
Looks like he has done some good work, but needs some serious gyros, one of which must be mounted on the pivoting wing.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 02:44 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
...
In the plastic bag of 'spare parts' with the prop et al....there's 2 tiny metal studs, & 2 tiny screws & in my bag, only one tiny nut. (Shaddup Gene!) Shouldn't there be two??
That is the equivalent to a Dubro EZ-Connector, possibly with a different size.

The shaft goes through the (elevator's and rudder's) control horn. The nut screws on the shaft to keep it in the control horn, and the pushrod wire is held in the thick part of the shaft with a small screw.

Any good system for attaching the "too thin to Z bend and use as is" pushrod wire to the control horn will work. Dubro makes a solder on threaded connector which adds threads to the end of the wire and a standard RC clevis to screw on for adjustment. This would require cutting the small tubing back a bit for extra clearance.

I have even glued a thin plastic plate with smaller holes on the horn so that I could use the thinner wire as is, but in this case, you would have to get it really close because you would have no adjustment.

Cliff
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 03:01 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
Joined Jun 2009
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
...
I got the Turnigy Accucell-6 charger....pretty nice li'l booger it is, too! I've been watching tons of videos on its operations & finer points....even learned how to calibrate it (do you guys do this, or even know you could?) which, by the way, isn't even mentioned in the manual! And before first using, checked, & sure enough it was slightly off....and would have left packs charged to slightly less (0.2v per cell) than full capacity!

...
Thought to just plug one into the next-higher socket since same pin is ground for all sockets, & it might just read the occupied pins 1-per-cell.
There are actually two calibrations that can be done. One requires high precision voltages for the individual cells and is permanent until you reflash the program inside the charger.

Plugging two batteries in in parallel would connect all cells and quickly drain the higher charged battery (maybe not too bad, except for the high current trying to go through the balance wires) to the level of the lower battery (OK, half way in between). The problem is that you would be charging the lower pack too fast. So high current and charging too fast and that is before you start the charger up (which should work OK once the cells are equalized).

Also, one of the plastic keys on the battery balance connector would have to be cut off to even fit in the 6 cell connector.

OK, I am caught up. I'll try not to carpet bomb you guys so much in the future.

Cliff
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 03:20 PM
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Sunnyvale
Joined Feb 2009
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I put one of these together for my newest RC student on sunday. And wow!! This is an awesome plane! Be got the brushless upgraded airframe only kit and we put in the rest of the equipemnt. Sky Lipo 3s 20c 2200mah pack, Dynam 7g servos all around, Dynam 30amp ESC and Futaba receiver. With stock prop and motor this plane was able to take off from the grass with no issues! My student was actually able to fly it on he own for 2 20+ minute flights! My hand got tired from holding the trainer switch!

Needless to say I have one on order now and will make it my trainer...and LED and FPV platform as wll...
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 04:42 PM
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San Diego, CA
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I just looked at HobbyKing's website.

Bixlers ARFs are back in stock in the International Warehouse (that means in China) for $52.65. Plus just a wee bit for shipping.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16544
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 05:01 PM
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United States, WA, Richland
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
I just looked at HobbyKing's website.

Bixlers ARFs are back in stock in the International Warehouse (that means in China) for $52.65. Plus just a wee bit for shipping.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16544
Thanks!! Just ordered 2 more (to share). $75 delivered. Maybe the drought is over. But at a severe customer satisfaction cost.
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 05:05 PM
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Thanks!! Just ordered 2 more (to share). $75 delivered. Maybe the drought is over. But at a severe customer satisfaction cost.
Shipping for two was $75? Or total cost? (!!)

You all can thank me any time, for my doing what was necessary to get the Bixlers back in stock.

I knew, I knew, I knew that if I cancelled my HobbyKing order and got a SkySurfer from ReadyMadeRC instead, then HobbyKing would get more in stock almost immediately.

And sho 'nuff.....
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Old Aug 01, 2011, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
Shipping for two was $75? Or total cost? (!!)

You all can thank me any time, for doing what was necessary to get the Bixlers back in stock.

I knew, I knew, I knew that if I cancelled my HobbyKing order and got a SkySurfer from ReadyMadeRC instead, then HobbyKing would get more in stock almost immediately.

And sho 'nuff.....
Total came to $149 including shipping for two. It appears they may have filled some kit orders, because I'm pretty sure it was BK and now it's -19.
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