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Old Jul 31, 2011, 09:25 AM
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United States, NY, Wolcott
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Originally Posted by G550Ted View Post
I can't speak to whether a TGS 6x4 prop may or may not be quieter than an APC 6x4, but contrary to the citation from page 1 that you quoted there is no possible way for any 6x4 prop on any motor to generate 30 oz of thrust on less than 12 amps. Just sayin'.

Ted
I just went by what AJ said. YMMV
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by aeronca View Post
Got a link to where the TGS 6x4E can be bought?

Aeronca
THIS is where I got mine. Looks like they are out of stock there still.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jrjr View Post
I just went by what AJ said. YMMV
I understand, and that wasn't meant to be critical of you. If it came across that way I apologize. I just don't want anyone to be misled by bad data.

Ted
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 09:53 AM
Row 0, Seat A
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Originally Posted by aeronca View Post
Got a link to where the TGS 6x4E can be bought?

Aeronca
Hobby King, RCFoam, others. Google can help, but watch out for pricing. TGS props are OK but in my experience don't offer any real advantage over APC (or maybe others). I'm running an APC on my Bix and don't consider it noisy at all.

Ted
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 09:55 AM
Why so serious?
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeronca View Post
Got a link to where the TGS 6x4E can be bought?

Aeronca
The Good Stuff. (TGS)

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...propeller.html
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 10:06 AM
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Got a question for you guys who've bought Bixler RTFs with the HK-6DF 6-Ch Radio....or anyone else who might know.
The row of 'Reverse' switches and one 'Elevon Mix' switch across front bottom....is it normal for those to be 'sunk in' below the case's facing? On mine, the top of the 'push tab' is like 5mm below surface, & I'd have to reach in there with a screwdriver or key or something ~10mm just to move 'em. Maybe they're designed that way to prevent accidental tripping....but figured I'd best ask to be sure something wasn't broke on this thing.

Also, a piece of good news to share. While I's on HK's page for this Tx trying to see if the picture showed those switches clearly, found a new note that's been added:

**** HK-6DF spare receivers are coming soon!

Of course, those folks meaning of "coming soon" defies all explanation.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 10:25 AM
Why so serious?
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Got a question for you guys who've bought Bixler RTFs with the HK-6DF 6-Ch Radio....or anyone else who might know.
The row of 'Reverse' switches and one 'Elevon Mix' switch across front bottom....is it normal for those to be 'sunk in' below the case's facing? On mine, the top of the 'push tab' is like 5mm below surface, & I'd have to reach in there with a screwdriver or key or something ~10mm just to move 'em. Maybe they're designed that way to prevent accidental tripping....but figured I'd best ask to be sure something wasn't broke on this thing.

Also, a piece of good news to share. While I's on HK's page for this Tx trying to see if the picture showed those switches clearly, found a new note that's been added:

**** HK-6DF spare receivers are coming soon!

Of course, those folks meaning of "coming soon" defies all explanation.
Radios with reversing switches are almost always recessed to prevent tripping while in use, as you have noted.
You sure its 10mm? Mine are 5.362mm on the DX5e. 11.223 apart except for the last one which is 11.4. Probably a defect. Have ta call Horizon.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Radios with reversing switches are almost always recessed to prevent tripping while in use, as you have noted.
You sure its 10mm? Mine are 5.362mm on the DX5e. 11.223 apart except for the last one which is 11.4. Probably a defect. Have ta call Horizon.
Of course I'm sure - I measured it, calipered the index mark, mic'd the caliper, adjusted for thermal expansion & re-checked everything twice. The 8x10 color glossy photos hain't got back from FotoLab yet....but I'll call & put a rush on 'em. But heyyyyy....you gittin' uppity on me again??

BTW, if it needs saying, hope you realize I's keeding -- you keed, I keed right back & all that....I do that a lot. At least, I sure hope you's kidding!!

Followup question for you gurus:
I've got an inkling, but this ain't something I wanta mess up! I've got the Turnigy Accucel 6 charger. Lots of capabilities, but not one word of a User's Manual. Found one & downloaded the PDF....heavy Chingrish influence. And, my need isn't addressed, even after translation!

I understand I can charge 2 LiPo packs simultaneously (in parallel) up to 6S, using a Y-splitter with parallel wiring - have the parts & can make the harness, easily. Have found review videos on YouTube showing it being done with this charger, but one thing's lacking from all I've seen and it seems important.

I understand to charge 2 (eg) 3S 1300mAh packs I'd program the charger to charge to 2600mAh. But what nobody's showing is, what about the 2 packs' separate Balance plugs? There's only one 3S port (also a 4, 5, & 6S, & a 7 I guess is for the 1 thru 15S NiMH & NiCd's it'll handle) in the side of the charger.

The two 3S 1300's I want to charge of course each have a 3S balance plug. With only 1 3S port on the charger -- what do I do with the 'odd' one? I think, plug 'em both into the 6S port side by side, but want to confirm that. If my understanding's correct, each pin is only a series connection to each cell, over which charge conditon of its cell is 'read', hence no separate ground connection for each is required (done internally). EDIT: That is NOT the case - I found out there is an 'extra' pin for each cell#'s port -- that's the 'negative', or ground pin. Hence, no side-by-side in the 6-pin port!

Best solution found - 'Balance Board' - ~$10 +shipping.
Workaround still being sought.
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 11:44 AM
Why so serious?
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Of course I'm sure - I measured it, calipered the index mark, mic'd the caliper, adjusted for thermal expansion & re-checked everything twice. The 8x10 color glossy photos hain't got back from FotoLab yet....but I'll call & put a rush on 'em. But heyyyyy....you gittin' uppity on me again??

BTW, if it needs saying, hope you realize I's keeding -- you keed, I keed right back & all that....I do that a lot. At least, I sure hope you's kidding!!

Followup question for you gurus:
I've got an inkling, but this ain't something I wanta mess up! I've got the Turnigy Accucel 6 charger. Lots of capabilities, but not one word of a User's Manual. Found one & downloaded the PDF....heavy Chingrish influence. And, my need isn't addressed, even after translation!

I understand I can charge 2 LiPo packs simultaneously (in parallel) up to 6S, using a Y-splitter with parallel wiring - have the parts & can make the harness, easily. Have found review videos on YouTube showing it being done with this charger, but one thing's lacking from all I've seen and it seems important.

I understand to charge 2 (eg) 3S 1300mAh packs I'd program the charger to charge to 2600mAh. But what nobody's showing is, what about the 2 packs' separate Balance plugs? There's only one 3S port (also a 4, 5, & 6S, & a 7 I guess is for the 1 thru 15S NiMH & NiCd's it'll handle) in the side of the charger.

The two 3S 1300's I want to charge of course each have a 3S balance plug. With only 1 3S port on the charger -- what do I do with the 'odd' one? I think, plug 'em both into the 6S port side by side, but want to confirm that. If my understanding's correct, each pin is only a series connection to each cell, over which charge conditon of its cell is 'read', hence no separate ground connection for each is required (done internally).

Am I on track, or about to blow stuff up re-e-e-al good??
Just for the record, I have no idea.
But, the 6cell has 7 pins and two 3 cells have 8.

(yes, I joke a lot and can take it as well as I give it.)
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 01:10 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Strizzo View Post
i do think it needs a prop change as the stock prop seemed to make more noise than speed above 2/3 throttle
I was afraid to loop at half throttle with the stock spar as the plane was pretty quick even there, but this may be my speed expectations vs. yours.

Cliff
Now that I have upgraded my spar and fly at WOT, I see what you mean. Not much extra speed in the top 1/3 of throttle range.

I went to a 6x4 prop with a collet type prop adapter and the difference in climb rate is huge. It will easily sustain a 60+ degree climb.

Always balance your prop!

Cliff
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 01:18 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Originally Posted by Virginia Jim View Post
Star:

Did you get your carbon fiber spars from Hobby King? Can you give us of list of what your received? What did you think?

What size fit best inside the 6mm tube?

Good strength? No split ends? Other comments?

I need to order ASAP.

VJ
For a V1 spar, get the .180 size (.188 is too big. I have not tried .180) not the .188 size. Don't know what sizes are available from HK. If you already have the .188 size, you can slit it lengthwise with a Dremel tool, press it to crack the other side, put it in, and run lots of thin CA inside. Tap sideways to thoroughly distriblute the CA inside.

Cliff
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 01:36 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
Temple, GA, USA
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Originally Posted by StarHopper44 View Post
Quote:
Looking from the wing tip a vertical prop should have the straight looking side forward and the curved one to the back of the plane.
Two things. One, that's twice you've said that recently....and it's bass ackwards from everything I've been taught - that the conVEX curve of the prop faces the direction of travel. Am I missing something in what you wrote?

The other:

Quote:
...All six measurements should read close to 0 ohms.
Niggling, but only 3 measures should cover 'em. 1-2; 1-3 & 2-3. ???
Again, am I missing something?

-----
\\\\\ /////
The convex side is difficult to detect on some props. That is why I said to look at a vertical prop from the wing tip. The leading edge will appear straight and the trailing edge will appear curved. Not viewing the airfoil here but the leading and trailing edges from a specific view point.

Even any two measurements work fine for simple continuity. When you get into motors with measureably non-zero resistances, you probably want to measure 3 as you said. My brain had recently been into diodes when I wrote that.

OP corrected / modified.

Cliff
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 01:54 PM
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Just for the record, I have no idea.
But, the 6cell has 7 pins and two 3 cells have 8.

(yes, I joke a lot and can take it as well as I give it.)
Kewl beans, bud!

Update on the balance plug....found a closeup of the hookup on a 'balance board' and there's a negative (ground) pin....that's the extra one. Adjust above single-pin theory accordingly. Looks like I might need one of those boards unless somebody knows a workaround. Have solder gun, will melt!

This by the way is to enable flying Bix with parallel 1300mAh's so, hopefully not too far OT, if it is!

Progress update - gonna have to crack the fuse - motor lead plugs just barely visible hanging down from the 'roof' behind rear bulkhead, & can't tug 'em any longer with hemostats. No way in h377 I can get ESC hooked up to 'em! Could build some short extensions though it'd be tough to connect, else crack fuse & replace them at the motor. Other'n miniscule loss at added connectors, any reason replacement would be better than extensions?
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 02:02 PM
Specializing in RC since 1972
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Originally Posted by rchank View Post
I've noticed my Sky Surfer does some porpoising at lower throttle settings. All I have is the 1300mAh 3s batteries so I added some ballast to the nose. CG is about 62mm from leading edge. Still is acting a bit tail heavy. It takes a lot of trim to keep it from porpoising. Maybe a bit more ballast until I get some 2200 3s batts.
Porpoising is actually caused by too much up trim and / or too nose heavy. Simply trim it down a little to see if that helps. Only add tail weight as a last resort.

If you trim your airplane for slow flight and add power you may need to trim down a little to avoid this. That is the most common reason.

If the airplane is balanced according to spec and has bad elevator trim changes between high and low throttle, the motor thrust line may be to blame.

If everything else is right and you really want your airplane to stay at the same altitude regardless of low to full throttle, you can mix a little elevator into your throttle.

Cliff
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Old Jul 31, 2011, 02:05 PM
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United States, NC, Richlands
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Originally Posted by theothercliff View Post
The convex side is difficult to detect on some props. That is why I said to look at a vertical prop from the wing tip. ...
Cliff
Aaah...THAT's the something I missed Cliff. You said from the WING tip....and I'm used to viewing from the PROP tip, down the prop. That way the convex-vs-concave curvature is much more evident.

I knew you knew better! *LOL* But thought 'juxtaposition of thought', like when you mean to say 'right' but say 'left'? That 2d time had me wondering tho.....had to make sure.

I've had a couple mini-strokes....can't tell all it's done to my 'sawdust'.
#1 - my memory's just a memory.
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