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Old Jan 16, 2011, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by lostheli View Post
What is a good method for steaming?

Even the clones have clones. That is funny.
You want to use NEAR boiling water to heat the foam not steam. If too hot the foam will blister or get little zits on top. If it does blister or get little bumps you can smooth them out with back side of a simple kitchen spoon.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
You want to use NEAR boiling water to heat the foam not steam. If too hot the foam will blister or get little zits on top. If it does blister or get little bumps you can smooth them out with back side of a simple kitchen spoon.
So, you actually stick the foam into the water then? Or maybe pour it over the bigger parts. Will the repaired spot remain soft or will this also strengthen it somewhat?
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by lostheli View Post
So, you actually stick the foam into the water then? Or maybe pour it over the bigger parts. Will the repaired spot remain soft or will this also strengthen it somewhat?
Correct, the "elapor soup" (hot but not boiling water) in a large (lobster style) pot on the stove works well to dip or simply a sauce pan or two of hot water poured over the parts you cannot dip. It's pretty amazing. Stay at the ready with backside of kitchen spoon to smooth out the pimples that grow if too hot.
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Last edited by Prof100; Jan 16, 2011 at 09:53 AM.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 11:05 AM
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Parma, Ohio
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Hey Prof

Bill, wonder what size battery that you use in the SkyS? No way can I use a 1300 mah 30c without adding additional weight to nose and hold a 68-72 CG. I can just make it with a 2200mah 25c. An 1800 30c even needs a few washers to hold recommended CG. I have no additional weight aft of the CG other than fuse CF and elev CF. Stock BL motor. If guys are flying this with no washers and 1300mah batt, they are Houdini.

PS on my orig RTF I left the washers in and flew with both stock 1300mah and 1800mah batts and had no problems other than my lack of flying skills.

Ron
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron RC View Post
Bill, wonder what size battery that you use in the SkyS? No way can I use a 1300 mah 30c without adding additional weight to nose and hold a 68-72 CG. I can just make it with a 2200mah 25c. An 1800 30c even needs a few washers to hold recommended CG. I have no additional weight aft of the CG other than fuse CF and elev CF. Stock BL motor. If guys are flying this with no washers and 1300mah batt, they are Houdini.

PS on my orig RTF I left the washers in and flew with both stock 1300mah and 1800mah batts and had no problems other than my lack of flying skills.

Ron
Ron,

From the start I used a 2200 30C just because I have several in stock. I have it positioned foward but NOT buried in the nose. I have also barrel wrapped the nose with tape to fix the problems caused by tip stalling when I experiment with adding LEDs to the wings. Therefore, the nose is heavier.

AJ runs it with a 1300 but he uses the stock brushless motor and the battery is stuffed into the nose. His is a version 1 which allows more forward placement in the nose. He also likes a aft CG. AJ will jump in and clarify.

Bill
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 11:41 AM
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West Texas USA
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Battery.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron RC View Post
Bill, wonder what size battery that you use in the SkyS? No way can I use a 1300 mah 30c without adding additional weight to nose and hold a 68-72 CG. I can just make it with a 2200mah 25c. An 1800 30c even needs a few washers to hold recommended CG. I have no additional weight aft of the CG other than fuse CF and elev CF. Stock BL motor. If guys are flying this with no washers and 1300mah batt, they are Houdini.

PS on my orig RTF I left the washers in and flew with both stock 1300mah and 1800mah batts and had no problems other than my lack of flying skills.

Ron
My v2 with stock brushless flys with a 3S 1500mah at the front of the nose. No washers.
P.S. My CG is about 70mm.
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Last edited by garymcc; Jan 16, 2011 at 11:56 AM. Reason: Additional info.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by lostheli View Post
What is a good method for steaming?

Even the clones have clones. That is funny.
I have used a tea kettle, running the foam across the vapor stream. This has worked for removing some of the dings from the wing leading edge. It may not work well for large damaged areas.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by garymcc View Post
My v2 with stock brushless flys with a 3S 1500mah at the front of the nose. No washers.
Well, where am I going wrong. Can't get these batts any more forward. No aft additional wgt added, I'm stumped.

Ron
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron RC View Post
Well, where am I going wrong. Can't get these batts any more forward. No aft additional wgt added, I'm stumped.

Ron
When I put my v2 together I carved some foam from the nose allowing me to move the battery forward about 6mm or so from the stock position. This probably helped.

You might consider carving some of the forward foam from the nose IF you can get inside the nose. It may not take much foam removal. As I recall the foam removal usually moves the battery forward into the space previously occupied by the washers. I don't know if this is an issue on the v1 but it is not an issue on my v2.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 12:08 PM
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
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Originally Posted by Ron RC View Post
Well, where am I going wrong. Can't get these batts any more forward. No aft additional wgt added, I'm stumped.

Ron
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Calculations indicate you need to add a washer.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 12:19 PM
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United States, FL, Cape Coral
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
You want to use NEAR boiling water to heat the foam not steam. If too hot the foam will blister or get little zits on top. If it does blister or get little bumps you can smooth them out with back side of a simple kitchen spoon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by garymcc View Post
I have used a tea kettle, running the foam across the vapor stream. This has worked for removing some of the dings from the wing leading edge. It may not work well for large damaged areas.
I have used both steam and boiling water. With steam it's the hottest so it's easy to get it too hot and pimple up the foam. Good for minor distortions. With a big nose smoosh a dip in just boiling water and working it by hand works. (obviously remove any electronics before hand..)

For wing dings and other small areas I've been using a small travel type hair dryer. Maybe I'm just lucky with this dryer since it seems to be the perfect temp to expand the foam back without getting it too hot. Little at a time and work it by hand.

Of course if you have girlie hands like aj you may want to use some kind of glove while working out the kinks.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. Calculations indicate you need to add a washer.
Gene, your math looks correct to me !!! Solution solved. Add some washers. I'll probably use some with smaller opening and more mass to keep count down. No way to carve out foam in nose on V1, not that much meat there as I recall. Plus it would be a bear without tearing up the fuse.

PS I won't tell AJ I added some washers, he would be livid

Ron
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 12:39 PM
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West Texas USA
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Originally Posted by Ron RC View Post
Gene, your math looks correct to me !!! Solution solved. Add some washers. I'll probably use some with smaller opening and more mass to keep count down. No way to carve out foam in nose on V1, not that much meat there as I recall. Plus it would be a bear without tearing up the fuse.

PS I won't tell AJ I added some washers, he would be livid

Ron
If you are a big spender you can buy some lead fishing sinkers, "remold" them using a hammer, and glue them into place. I have used them because they pack a lot of weight into a small volume. This may not apply to the SkyS issue as there may already be a "washer friendly" cavity.
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by garymcc View Post
If you are a big spender you can buy some lead fishing sinkers, "remold" them using a hammer, and glue them into place. I have used them because they pack a lot of weight into a small volume. This may not apply to the SkyS issue as there may already be a "washer friendly" cavity.
Gary, thought about that. Will check my tackle box that hasn't been opened in a couple of years. I'm sure I can find some. Also on V1 there is not cavity designed to hold the washers. They are just hot glued to one side as they assemble the fuse in China. Lots of guys asked why they were offset to one side. There is no real reason other than they glued them in to one side so it was easier to match fuse halves while assembling. IMO

Ron
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Old Jan 16, 2011, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron RC View Post
Gary, thought about that. Will check my tackle box that hasn't been opened in a couple of years. I'm sure I can find some. Also on V1 there is not cavity designed to hold the washers. They are just hot glued to one side as they assemble the fuse in China. Lots of guys asked why they were offset to one side. There is no real reason other than they glued them in to one side so it was easier to match fuse halves while assembling. IMO

Ron
The further forward you can place the weight the less weight you need.
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