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Old Jan 04, 2011, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by yannc View Post
I strongly recommend the Traveler DV5000 that you can find in all Aldi stores. Stripped down it's very light and you get a very good 720p video for not much .
Thanks for the tip.... I was using one of those keyring cams off ebay and getting good results, but I'll check out the DV5000 if I see one.

Pete.
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Old Jan 04, 2011, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by mike_m2 View Post
I have a SkyS V1 and the CG that works for me is less than 68mm, probably closer to 60mm. I've tried the minimum 68mm, but the plane becomes tail heavy, always pointing nose up, at 68mm. I've tried trimming the elevator down, but it's not enough. My preference would be to use 68 - 72mm, I just can't get there, so I just use what keeps the plane level.
Hi Mike,
Sounds like I might just have to just experiment until I find something that works for me then. The plane's small enough to do, power off, chuck glide tests until it works well enough. I'll see what happens.

Pete.
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Old Jan 04, 2011, 11:20 PM
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Originally Posted by airbagit13 View Post
Are people replacing their control horns because they are sloppy or because they rip out?
Mr Baker had one broken on a heavy landing, other than that, I think they work OK... they're just a bit light weight, that's all.

Pete.
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 03:48 AM
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they don't look sturdy but I got those on mine..
they are the same that the mini 50mm edf jets have..
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Prof100 View Post
Why would you want to shield the receiver?
I'm not intentionally trying to shield the receiver. I just want to cover the canopy with foil for aesthetic reasons and to make it more visible. I've seen heard some people on rcpowers.com doing it and I thought it looked cool. It wasn't until after I put it on that I thought it might block the radio signal.
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 11:43 AM
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Just before the holidays I received a replacement wing from BH (full story to come) and it was apparently removed from one of their RTF units because the servo was glued in and the wire cover glued as well. I tried briefly to separate these pieces from the main wing foam so that I could use my own servos, but am having trouble doing it without damaging the foam. Seems like Gene recommended a butter knife. I haven't tried that much, just wanted to get some opinions before I go much further. Worst case, I can just leave the stock stuff in there I suppose, but my other wing would have a different servo (I bought the kit, not RTF) and that might cause problems.

So has anyone taken those pieces out of the RTF wings? Any tips.
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 12:15 PM
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xacto knife and abit damage to the foam and that's it. When you glue in ur servos the damage will not be visible
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by studawg66 View Post
Just before the holidays I received a replacement wing from BH (full story to come) and it was apparently removed from one of their RTF units because the servo was glued in and the wire cover glued as well. I tried briefly to separate these pieces from the main wing foam so that I could use my own servos, but am having trouble doing it without damaging the foam. Seems like Gene recommended a butter knife. I haven't tried that much, just wanted to get some opinions before I go much further. Worst case, I can just leave the stock stuff in there I suppose, but my other wing would have a different servo (I bought the kit, not RTF) and that might cause problems.

So has anyone taken those pieces out of the RTF wings? Any tips.
I can understand why you want identical servos for both ailerons.

I've taken my cover off because the servo wire connector inside came loose (i've got detachable wings and this can happen) and I had to put it back together. I've been using this method with a hot metal putty knife to separate foam at the seams You could probably do this with the butter knife also, but having the heat on it helps it loosen it without damage. In your situation, you shouldn't have to remove the whole covering, but only the last inch or two closest to the servo. That's where you'll find the connector for the servo and you can just plug in your new servo there.
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 02:37 PM
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hes right about the same servos in both ailerons just in case 1 servo is faster or slower than the other. Still there is not so much difference on these kind of servos unless ofcourse the servo arms are different and produce different throws. if none of them applies then staying with the stock servo won't be a prob since there is not much stress on those durfaces at the surfers flying speed
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mike_m2 View Post
I've been using this method with a hot metal putty knife to separate foam at the seams You could probably do this with the butter knife also, but having the heat on it helps it loosen it without damage.
So those seams are sealed with hot glue? I wasn't sure what they used. But good point about not having to remove the whole cover. I'll see if I can just carefully pry up the last few inches using the method you mentioned here. Thanks!
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by studawg66 View Post
So those seams are sealed with hot glue? I wasn't sure what they used. But good point about not having to remove the whole cover. I'll see if I can just carefully pry up the last few inches using the method you mentioned here. Thanks!
I don't think they use hot glue. I believe its some kind of contact cement. FWIW I would hold the wing up to a light and you will be able to see the servo connector shadow. It's only about an inch or so from the servo. I would use an xacto knife and cut thru the foam around the connector and unplug it. Then replace your servo and then connect to orig servo extention embedded in the wing under the cover. I am not totally sure but I believe the wing cover is not only glued on the sides but it is also glued on the bottom, which would make it virtually impossible to get out without really destroying it. Also you will have to shorten up your servo lead or tuck the additional wire into the pocket somehow because the orig servo lead is very short (much shorter than any replacement servo I have seen). Good luck, take your time and try to replace the cutout piece of foam back and then cover with small piece of 3M/Scotch Extreme tape.

Ron
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Old Jan 05, 2011, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by mike_m2 View Post
I'm not intentionally trying to shield the receiver. I just want to cover the canopy with foil for aesthetic reasons and to make it more visible. I've seen heard some people on rcpowers.com doing it and I thought it looked cool. It wasn't until after I put it on that I thought it might block the radio signal.
You might want to consider using paint to make it more visible.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 10:25 AM
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I have two questions.

I just received the tgs 6x4 props and I'm not fairly certain on the proper way to install them. Only one side will fit but that means the prop is on backwards. Do I need to bore out the hole with my drill to get it to fit?


What brand of 18-20a ESC do you guys suggest?
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by D0Z3R View Post
I have two questions.
SNIP......Do I need to bore out the hole with my drill to get it to fit?
Yes.... If you read the instruction sheet that came with your prop it tells you on there that you can drill the centre to fit larger adapters.

I use a taper reamer, to open up prop centres... that way I can be sure that they open out to the right size and dead on centre. But you can do it with a drill bit (by hand!!) if you're careful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by D0Z3R View Post
What brand of 18-20a ESC do you guys suggest?
I'm just using a generic (Phoenix) one that I had in my spares box. But I'd recommend that, as the motor can pull 15 Amps on that prop, you go for a 25A ESC not an 18 to 20. Your ESC should always be rated at least 30% to 50% more Amps than the set-up can actually pull. It'll run cooler and be more efficient.

Pete.
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Old Jan 06, 2011, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
I just received the tgs 6x4 props and I'm not fairly certain on the proper way to install them. Only one side will fit but that means the prop is on backwards. Do I need to bore out the hole with my drill to get it to fit?

My SkyS brushless prop adapter had a 7mm prop shaft diameter. You need to either use the proper insert from the plastic "tree" or bore out the prop hole, I don't remember which applies for the SkyS and 6x4E.
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