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Old Dec 20, 2012, 01:26 AM
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Australia, TAS, Devonport
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Originally Posted by CPMBOY View Post
the other day, garfield came to the house and gave my Bixler a one two punch on the wings and canopy.......any idea on how to repair this?......a foamy filler maybe?....
Wow that sucks, good excuse to buy a whole new kit I reckon (if they're in stock at the moment!), all the parts will probably come in handy at some stage in the future, whether its cat carnage or damage caused the normal way

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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Impressive as hell!
Cheers mate
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 05:04 AM
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Australia, QLD, New Farm
Joined Apr 2011
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Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
I suggest repairing it with fiberglass cloth and resin to make sure you can retain the airfoil as much as is possible.
AJ
Fiber glass from HK is very poor quality.
I bought 6 of 48g and 6 of 18g.
At the end i bought fiberglass in local store for the same price, but double the quality.

I can suggest HK only if you can not find anything else.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Bill0 View Post
Spackling compound and sand it down
Bit rough on the animal, but it does look like a lead deficiency...
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 09:31 AM
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United States, CA, Oceanside
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Originally Posted by aargee View Post
Bit rough on the animal, but it does look like a lead deficiency...


Spackling in the right places does wonders.
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 07:01 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
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Has anyone built a Bixler V1.1 kit? What servos did you use? Did you have to cut the foam to make them fit?

Shimmy
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Old Dec 20, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Lynden, WA
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I was going to order the 1.1, then the 1 came in stock so I got it instead and just put my servo's in the tail.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 01:21 AM
"Auntie Samantha"
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USA, MO, Clever
Joined Dec 2009
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First let me explain my circumstance. About a year ago I purchased a Sky Surfer from Toysonics. Having everything I would need, (ESC, servos, etc.) I ordered the ARF. When the plane arrived it was already glued together!

Because of health issues, the Sky Surfer project was shelved. It's now been over a year and I've decided to pursue the build again so I would have something ready to go come spring. Not having flown any of my planes for over a year now, I've come to the realization that I will need to have something to practice with to get some dexterity back in my thumbs, before I attempt to fly any of my warbirds.

That said, I pulled the Sky Surfer out of her box and started spreading all the parts out. After figuring out how to run the ESC leads to the motor (keep in mind the fuse was already glued together), I discovered the motor was junk! Okay, I understand the design concept of the motor/motor mount for the SS, and the Bixler as well, but all I can say at this time is "what a joke"! Needless to say, I ended up having to split the fuse! I've decided I'm not going back to that arrangement so I have built my own motor/mount configuration using the Turnigy D2826/6 2200Kv motor.

My plans for the SS is CF reinforcements, relocation of the ESC (I don't like the long lead between the ESC and motor), BEC, Orange RX 3-Axis V2 gyro, Nav lights, and eventually FPV.

I think I have found all the threads dedicated to the SS & Bixler builds, and have scoured them late into the night for the past week! Now I have a few questions?? Keep in mind, they are for my own curiosity, and I'm hoping that there has been sufficient time to pass, to offer the best solutions?

1. I have read where it is beneficial to remove that steel slug in the nose. On the other hand, a few have complained about a tail heavy situation after doing that? My motor/mount config. will weight 1oz. more, plus it will move out another 35mm-40mm further then the stock motor config. I will be using a 3S 2200mAh 20C lipo, so will that set-up with the slug removed, get me close to the recommended 60mm CG?

2. Wing security? It looks to me like the 3M hooks w/rubber bands is the best way to go? I thought about building my own clamp system, but that idea is going to interfere with my ESC location. Are there any better ideas? I will say this, the 6mm wing spar that came with the plane is CF, so I won't have to replace that.

3. Is there any reason to increase the rudder surface on the vert. stab?

4. I've notice on a few planes, a lot of packing tape? I can understand reinforcing the nose and belly, but the entire plane? Unless of course, the tape is used to hold the plane together instead of glue?

5. Is there any noticeable waggle either vertically or horizontally in the tail boom?



Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Gary
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 02:10 AM
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Australia, TAS, Devonport
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandancer View Post
1. I have read where it is beneficial to remove that steel slug in the nose. On the other hand, a few have complained about a tail heavy situation after doing that? My motor/mount config. will weight 1oz. more, plus it will move out another 35mm-40mm further then the stock motor config. I will be using a 3S 2200mAh 20C lipo, so will that set-up with the slug removed, get me close to the recommended 60mm CG?
Hi Gary, I'll chime in with my less than perfect knowledge, others may have different opinions. On my Bixler with that same motor mounted in a similar position I can still get it to balance with a 2200 all the way up in the nose without the nose weight. I was expecting to come out a little tail heavy with the motor shifted back that bit but was glad when it still balanced.

Quote:
2. Wing security? It looks to me like the 3M hooks w/rubber bands is the best way to go? I thought about building my own clamp system, but that idea is going to interfere with my ESC location. Are there any better ideas? I will say this, the 6mm wing spar that came with the plane is CF, so I won't have to replace that.
My wing securing method isn't pretty but is simple and works, just have a couple of picture hooks in the tops of each wing with rubber bands between them!

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3. Is there any reason to increase the rudder surface on the vert. stab?
I don't use the rudder so no opinion on that one

Quote:
4. I've notice on a few planes, a lot of packing tape? I can understand reinforcing the nose and belly, but the entire plane? Unless of course, the tape is used to hold the plane together instead of glue?
Just the nose and belly works fine on mine.

Quote:
5. Is there any noticeable waggle either vertically or horizontally in the tail boom?
The foam pieces fit together snugly, but the tailplane does wobble around a fair bit in the wind from the prop when on the ground (less if you do the carbon fibre reinforcement along the fuse), not sure if that happens so much when flying though?

Cheers, Tom
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 04:54 AM
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New Zealand, Canterbury, Rolleston
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Originally Posted by Sandancer View Post
That said, I pulled the Sky Surfer out of her box and started spreading all the parts out. After figuring out how to run the ESC leads to the motor (keep in mind the fuse was already glued together), I discovered the motor was junk!
The link seemed to show a standard motor. ??? What is the matter with it?

Quote:
Okay, I understand the design concept of the motor/motor mount for the SS, and the Bixler as well, but all I can say at this time is "what a joke"!
We've found nothing wrong with the standard mount.

Quote:
1. I have read where it is beneficial to remove that steel slug in the nose.
We've removed the washers from all the Bixlers flying here. (4 - V1s. The V2 doesn't have any.)

Quote:
On the other hand, a few have complained about a tail heavy situation after doing that?
We've not found any problem with balancing them when using 2200mAh batteries.

Quote:
My motor/mount config. will weight 1oz. more, plus it will move out another 35mm-40mm further then the stock motor config.
Which is another reason for leaving that as stock.

Quote:
I will be using a 3S 2200mAh 20C lipo, so will that set-up with the slug removed, get me close to the recommended 60mm CG?
With the motor moved and a heavier mount, that's unknown.

Quote:
2. Wing security? It looks to me like the 3M hooks w/rubber bands is the best way to go?
No, look at my blog. I use a wire over the 3M hooks, retained by a rubber band. Note that it is on the under side of the wing.

Quote:
I will say this, the 6mm wing spar that came with the plane is CF, so I won't have to replace that.
Oh yes you will.

That CF spar is thin. If you don't glue the wings together you will have a stress point where they meet and the CF spar will crush and break. Of 3 Bixlers flying here, two broke their spars and the third didn't. The third one had a glued together wing. The broken spars were replaced with thick walled fibreglass tubes.

Quote:
3. Is there any reason to increase the rudder surface on the vert. stab?
Not that we've found.

Quote:
5. Is there any noticeable waggle either vertically or horizontally in the tail boom?
Yes. Does it matter? No. To reduce it, fit proper hinges to everything and remove the plastic tubing over the push-rods, cut it into short sections and refit it using about 1/4 - 1/3 of the original tubing. That means gaps between the sections of tubing.

Or simply don't worry and go fly it.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 10:28 AM
"Auntie Samantha"
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USA, MO, Clever
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Heliosphere View Post
Hi Gary, I'll chime in with my less than perfect knowledge, others may have different opinions. On my Bixler with that same motor mounted in a similar position I can still get it to balance with a 2200 all the way up in the nose without the nose weight. I was expecting to come out a little tail heavy with the motor shifted back that bit but was glad when it still balanced.
Thanks Tom! Much appreciated.

Gary
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 11:53 AM
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Hey folks,

I maidened my Bixler a few weeks ago but noticed that it was quite difficult to control compared to my Axn. It just wouldn't glide that well due to instability along the roll axis. Initially, I used a 2200mAh battery in the nose front with washers removed, but the unstable flight characteristics sound symptomatic of a tail-heavy configuration. When I put the washers back above the battery, however, it seemed to fly a bit better. Perhaps I need the washers to offset the weight of the smallpartscnc motor mount I'm using? Eventually I'll have a GoPro on the front so it won't be an issue, but I'd like to get used to flying the Bixler before loading it up with FPV equipment.

On another topic, I'm using a 7" prop, which means I need to use the middle position for the cnc motor mount. While the thrust angle remains the same, the thrust line moves up, which from what I understand, should pass through the plane's CG. I adjusted the thrust line to pass through the wing spar by using a couple small washers on the motor mount. See the below picture. Does this look correct before I fly again? Or should I remove the washers?

Thanks for any guidance!
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 12:28 PM
"Auntie Samantha"
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USA, MO, Clever
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac50L View Post
The link seemed to show a standard motor. ??? What is the matter with it?
We've found nothing wrong with the standard mount.
We've removed the washers from all the Bixlers flying here. (4 - V1s. The V2 doesn't have any.)
We've not found any problem with balancing them when using 2200mAh batteries.
Which is another reason for leaving that as stock.
With the motor moved and a heavier mount, that's unknown.
No, look at my blog. I use a wire over the 3M hooks, retained by a rubber band. Note that it is on the under side of the wing.
That CF spar is thin. If you don't glue the wings together you will have a stress point where they meet and the CF spar will crush and break. Of 3 Bixlers flying here, two broke their spars and the third didn't. The third one had a glued together wing. The broken spars were replaced with thick walled fibreglass tubes.
Yes. Does it matter? No. To reduce it, fit proper hinges to everything and remove the plastic tubing over the push-rods, cut it into short sections and refit it using about 1/4 - 1/3 of the original tubing. That means gaps between the sections of tubing.

Or simply don't worry and go fly it.
You have to remember, the fuse was already glued together. I had to use an extended phillips just to reach those (2) 30mm motor screws from inside the cockpit area, that wasn't the hard part. Trying to reassemble everything was the hassle! Lining up those screws with the holes in the back of the motor became an issue I didn't want to repeat. After numerous attempts, the decision to split the fuse came into focus. Once that was done, then yes, it is much easier to handle the motor/mount assembly, but like I said, at that time I didn't have that option.

When I got the chance to run up the 2620-1900Kv brushless motor I found the rotor was slightly hitting several of the magnets and would not rotate easily. Not finding any loose magnets during many dis-assemblies, I decided I'd had enough, so I ordered the Turnigy D2826/6. Now if I have any motor problems, it's just a matter of removing those (4) X mount screws from outside the fuse, and I won't have to cut it apart again. I've just decided to make things much simpler for myself.

No disrespect here, but I disagree with your analogy of fiberglass vs. Carbon Fiber spars. I assume HK's Bixler probably does come with fiberglass spars as most Chinese manufactures do, FMS included. I have replaced all of my FMS fiberglass spars with CF with great success. I do have some .254/6.5mm CF which has the same wall thickness as this .234/6mm CF spar that came with the plane, but if it becomes an issue I might reconsider the situation?

I will reinforce the tail boom with either .220/5.5mm or .325/8/75mm solid flat CF to eliminate any foreseen wobble. I'll probably install a few pieces in the nose as well.

As far as hinging I'll be using the HK Super hinges on all the control surfaces as I've done on all my warbirds. I've already reinforced the elevator with CF.

The only thing holding me up from getting the fuse glued back together is the arrival of the HK Orange V2 3-Axis gyro. I have everything else fitted and ready for install.

Like I said, this is one of my many winter projects so I have plenty of time to get everything ready for spring. I'll post additional pics and info as time goes by.

I do thank you for your response to all my questions!

Gary
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 01:05 PM
SARG5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sandancer View Post
You have to remember, the fuse was already glued together. I had to use an extended phillips just to reach those (2) 30mm motor screws from inside the cockpit area, that wasn't the hard part. Trying to reassemble everything was the hassle! Lining up those screws with the holes in the back of the motor became an issue I didn't want to repeat. After numerous attempts, the decision to split the fuse came into focus. Once that was done, then yes, it is much easier to handle the motor/mount assembly, but like I said, at that time I didn't have that option.

When I got the chance to run up the 2620-1900Kv brushless motor I found the rotor was slightly hitting several of the magnets and would not rotate easily. Not finding any loose magnets during many dis-assemblies, I decided I'd had enough, so I ordered the Turnigy D2826/6. Now if I have any motor problems, it's just a matter of removing those (4) X mount screws from outside the fuse, and I won't have to cut it apart again. I've just decided to make things much simpler for myself.

No disrespect here, but I disagree with your analogy of fiberglass vs. Carbon Fiber spars. I assume HK's Bixler probably does come with fiberglass spars as most Chinese manufactures do, FMS included. I have replaced all of my FMS fiberglass spars with CF with great success. I do have some .254/6.5mm CF which has the same wall thickness as this .234/6mm CF spar that came with the plane, but if it becomes an issue I might reconsider the situation?

I will reinforce the tail boom with either .220/5.5mm or .325/8/75mm solid flat CF to eliminate any foreseen wobble. I'll probably install a few pieces in the nose as well.

As far as hinging I'll be using the HK Super hinges on all the control surfaces as I've done on all my warbirds. I've already reinforced the elevator with CF.

The only thing holding me up from getting the fuse glued back together is the arrival of the HK Orange V2 3-Axis gyro. I have everything else fitted and ready for install.

Like I said, this is one of my many winter projects so I have plenty of time to get everything ready for spring. I'll post additional pics and info as time goes by.

I do thank you for your response to all my questions!

Gary
While you are working on WINTER PROJECTS. Might as well take a look at
the Multiplex EasyStar ll, from www.headsuprc.com scrol down to the UPGRADES and go with them.
SARG5
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Sandancer View Post
The only thing holding me up from getting the fuse glued back together is the arrival of the HK Orange V2 3-Axis gyro. I have everything else fitted and ready for install.
Have you seen/considered cutting an access door in one side of the fuselage below where the wings fit? Makes all that space in the back of the plane easily accessible, so you can put all of your electronics back there and just have a battery up front.
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Old Dec 21, 2012, 02:21 PM
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Lynden, WA
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I put my RX in the hatch in the bottom on my bix1, battery and fpv gear in front.
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