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Old Sep 17, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Originally Posted by peterpiper View Post
You can get the light weight ones with a little grub screw fitting so that you can fasten them to a plain control rod with it. Don't know if HK carry them, you might get them locally.

Best Regards,
Peter.
Do you mean linkage stoppers? If so, yes, HK stock them and I always have a few (10 to a bag). It means you can use plain wire. I use ~0.8 mm SS welding wire.

The linkage stoppers are the same as fitted on the Bixler V1 elevator and rudder horns / pushrods.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mac50L View Post
Do you mean linkage stoppers? If so, yes, HK stock them and I always have a few (10 to a bag).
Yeah! that's what the little doodads are called. Always think it's a good idea to keep a spares box of bits and bobs like that. I built up my collection of those sort of odds and ends, since the late 1970's so I can usually find what I need in there, and a lot of stuff that I don't need as well

Best Regards,
Peter.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Mac50L View Post
Do you mean linkage stoppers? If so, yes, HK stock them and I always have a few (10 to a bag). It means you can use plain wire. I use ~0.8 mm SS welding wire.

The linkage stoppers are the same as fitted on the Bixler V1 elevator and rudder horns / pushrods.
These?



I used to use them on my Sky Surfer, but eventually gave up on them.

You have to crank them down super-hard to keep the pushrod wire from sliding in them, and even then it's hard to be sure they won't loosen up after a few hard landings or expansion-contractions cycles.

And there's no way to tell visually if they are secure.

I eventually decided I just couldn't trust them, after finding a few of them loose with the wire sliding back and forth. Fortunately it was close to the ground just after launch, so I got nothing more than a few dents on wingtip and nose.

And if you're an average klutz like me, it's hard to crank them down SUPER hard a few times without eventually twisting a control horn off the rudder or elevator.

I prefer just bending a V in the pushrod wire for adjustment purposes, and a Z in the very end to keep the wire on the control horn.

I've also been known to use these, which are much more reliable. They are an extra piece to lose, but even average klutzes like me can usually keep track of them... and they also come 10 to a bag if/when you do lose one (who, me? ). They come in many sizes, including some that are perfect for SS/Bixler size pushrod wires.

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Old Sep 17, 2012, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Little-Acorn View Post
These?



I used to use them on my Sky Surfer, but eventually gave up on them.
You'll find that if you put a dot of either "thread lock" compond or CA glue on the thread then they don't come undone. Once they're set right, they shouldn't need to be moved again. I use the ones with proper grub screw that fastens with an allen key. you can lock those down tight . Never had any problem with them myself, but different people get different mileage with any sort of linkage I guess.

Multiplex planes use em as well....

The other alternative would be:
a clevis with grub screws that will grip the push rod wire like:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19248

Those would work.

Best Regards,
Peter.
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Last edited by peterpiper; Sep 17, 2012 at 11:21 AM.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by peterpiper View Post
You'll find that if you put a dot of either "thread lock" compond or CA glue on the thread then they don't come undone. Once they're set right, they shouldn't need to be moved again. I use the ones with proper grub screw that fastens with an allen key. you can lock those down tight . Never had any problem with them myself,
I have. No thanks.

Quote:
The other alternative would be:
a clevis with grub screws that will grip the push rod wire like:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=19248

Those would work.
Don't those work the same way as the linkage stoppers?

Guess I don't see any advantage.

As you said, different strokes for different folks.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 01:19 PM
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Don't those work the same way as the linkage stoppers?
Not really, because you've two grub screws clamped down on the push rod. With two screws clamping it it's not going to move. At the other end the long screw goes right through the clevis and the control horn and doesn't put any crushing pressure on the horn itself like the end stop ones do. They work great.

At that price for 10, it's worth having a few in the bits box anyway.

Best Regards,
Peter.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 11:26 PM
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For those interested or sitting on the fence!!
Here is the FLITETEST BIXLER2 Review...
P.S. love the intro...
Flite Test - Bixler 2 - REVIEW (14 min 47 sec)


LURCH
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 03:03 AM
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These should be the linkage stoppers I use -

SKU: OR016-00501

I've not had a problem with them. OK, some may not like to use them.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 06:34 PM
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I am pretty sure that I mean Clevis. I have attached 3 pictures. The first is a close up of the clevis that is still unbroken. The second shows this clevis and the push-rod & servo. The third is the clevis that broke and how I fixed it.

When I opened the clevis to fix the servo the little nob on the end of the pin came off. For my first flight I kept the two arms with an improvised clip. When I hit the ground hard the pin (which was only attached to the clevis on one side) broke off completely.

I made a hole through the other side with a hot pin, which I then bent over and cut off.

But in anycase I want to get a new clevis to replace one, and perhaps some spare for future repairs.

I was hoping that you guys could point me at the right clevis and pushrods to buy so that I did not have to experiment.

Thanks
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 06:41 PM
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The original clevises appear a bit too brittle which is partly why I went to linkage stoppers.

I hope your foam hinges are freely moving ????? That's another area where I keep saying - "Fit proper hinges."
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
I am pretty sure that I mean Clevis. I have attached 3 pictures. The first is a close up of the clevis that is still unbroken. The second shows this clevis and the push-rod & servo. The third is the clevis that broke and how I fixed it.

When I opened the clevis to fix the servo the little nob on the end of the pin came off. For my first flight I kept the two arms with an improvised clip. When I hit the ground hard the pin (which was only attached to the clevis on one side) broke off completely.

I made a hole through the other side with a hot pin, which I then bent over and cut off.

But in anycase I want to get a new clevis to replace one, and perhaps some spare for future repairs.

I was hoping that you guys could point me at the right clevis and pushrods to buy so that I did not have to experiment.

Thanks
Shimmy, clever but that won't work. Too much slop in the control surface.

DJ
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 08:52 PM
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Shimmy, clever but that won't work. Too much slop in the control surface.
DJ
+1 DJ ....... He could put a small diameter bolt through and put a couple of nuts on the far side though. That'd be a good fix.

Otherwise Shimmy, those light weight clevises you showed in the hobby king pic you posted should work fine on the threaded push rods that you have there. Did they specify what diameter rod they were for?

Best Regards,
Peter.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 01:49 AM
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If I understand correctly the way the linkage stoppers that Little-acorn shows are adjusted is by loosening the two grub screws, re-positioning the push-rod and tightening again. I think that the screw/threaded rod version would be easier for me.

Sculptor, do those smaller clevises fit on the stock push-rods that come with the SS V-1 ? (that's what I have). If not, what push-rods do I buy?

About the slop in the control... you are 100% right. I noticed it too. I might try using a brad or if I can find some thicker wire. However I still want a real solution.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
If I understand correctly the way the linkage stoppers that Little-acorn shows are adjusted is by loosening the two grub screws, re-positioning the push-rod and tightening again. I think that the screw/threaded rod version would be easier for me.

Sculptor, do those smaller clevises fit on the stock push-rods that come with the SS V-1 ? (that's what I have). If not, what push-rods do I buy?

About the slop in the control... you are 100% right. I noticed it too. I might try using a brad or if I can find some thicker wire. However I still want a real solution.
The first SS I had was the "Blitzrc works" version 3 from Banna Hobby and it had those little 'stops' with a screw that tightens down on the rod, no threads. Big trouble, too tight and they strip, too loose and the rod slips in the stop. # crashes due to those. The second was a Bixler V1 and it had threaded rods and the small plastic clips, much better but still had to cut small pieces of aquarium host and slide over them because the pin was not well cast and could pop apart. Caution, I 'think' that was the set up. The one I have now is a Bix v2 and has the same setup. But the little ones with the screw will help crash you plane.

DJ
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 01:09 AM
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Hey guys, I bought the Bixler 1 and I have a simple question: Should I glue the piece of foam that go over the wingspar? I will use a tape over there, but I don't know if a have to glue it too.

And the servos... is the same case. Glue or just tape?

I bought epoxy 6 miniutes glue.


tks!!!
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