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Old Sep 09, 2012, 04:15 AM
It should fly at least once
clive45's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Grenfell
Joined Mar 2006
2,576 Posts
I suspect that the low throttle position is not low enough. Try putting throttle trim all the way down and/or go into the servo travel menu and take the throttle further down. Many a time various ESC will not arm because of this. I also do not know of an ESC that does not have this arming protection.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 04:43 AM
Registered User
Liverpool, UK
Joined Jul 2006
177 Posts
Its fixed!!

i reset it back to factory defaults 3 times an now it lives

well aslong as its working

thanks for all the suggestion/ help

now i can maiden my bixler now
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 06:01 AM
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Gimmer's Avatar
Australia, QLD
Joined May 2011
695 Posts
Finally got my Bixler playing nice with trees

FPV Bixler Tree Roll. (0 min 31 sec)
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 12:31 PM
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Chilliwack, BC Canada
Joined Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmer View Post
Finally got my Bixler playing nice with trees

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb4iUWIstk4
Wohoa that's tight. Fence wire below and tree branches above! Is that FPV or just by eye at a distance? If it is the latter, you have amazing eyes.

Gord
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 03:58 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mudcow007 View Post
Its fixed!!

i reset it back to factory defaults 3 times an now it lives

well aslong as its working

thanks for all the suggestion/ help

now i can maiden my bixler now
Ernie says "cool beans".
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 03:59 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordks View Post
Wohoa that's tight. Fence wire below and tree branches above! Is that FPV or just by eye at a distance? If it is the latter, you have amazing eyes.

Gord
That was a luck shot. He went home and changed his shorts soon after.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 05:19 PM
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Gimmer's Avatar
Australia, QLD
Joined May 2011
695 Posts
Quote:

Wohoa that's tight. Fence wire below and tree branches above! Is that FPV or just by eye at a distance? If it is the latter, you have amazing eyes.

GordThat was a luck shot. He went home and changed his shorts soon after.
I was flying FPV and yes was almost a pants change needed. Lots yahooing and carry on after the bix made it home in one piece though.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 06:59 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
5,972 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmer View Post
I was flying FPV and yes was almost a pants change needed. Lots yahooing and carry on after the bix made it home in one piece though.
Good for you. Nice vid too.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 07:04 PM
Nakelp
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United States, NJ, Union
Joined Sep 2004
6,793 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gimmer View Post
Finally got my Bixler playing nice with trees

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hb4iUWIstk4
whow, great recovery. You are one lucky dude :-))
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 07:10 PM
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Eagle202's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by nakelp86 View Post
whow, great recovery. You are one lucky dude :-))
What about the tree branch?
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 07:20 PM
Nakelp
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United States, NJ, Union
Joined Sep 2004
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most likely its still there :-O
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 08:20 PM
Registered User
Joined Sep 2012
2 Posts
Bixler motor mod

After I bought my first Bixler, I let my brother fly it, and he crashed it. The plane landed on it's nose and it was permanently warped. He felt awful, I told him not to feel too bad because he would be buying me another!

With my new Bixler, I wanted to make some mods that might prevent the same kind of damage to the nose. So I bought a sheet of woven fiberglass cloth for $6 and some resin for $13. When my new plane arrive, I coated the inside of the each half of the nose with resin and applied two layers of fiberglass cloth. When it dried, the nose was substantially harder. The added weight was almost negligible!

Also like everyone else with a Bixler, I wanted a better motor. I bought a larger more powerful park series outrunner motor (something like a 430L, 3550KV) and a 50 amp ESC. I browsed dozens of solutions to the removable motor problem and I couldn't find one that I really liked (most require major body mods, tons of time, or special tools) I didn't want the engine hanging out the back like the metal motor mount available for $15 (and I didnt want the extra weight!). Then today a solution finally came to me! I haven't seen this anywhere yet, but if you have let me know.

I used an old plastic film canister for the motor casing =). The top of the canister (grey in the photos) was attached to the motor, and the black canister can fits almost perfectly into the bixler motor bay. You'll need to remove a little of the styrofoam, but not much. It fits really well. I used bonding resin to secure the canister body inside the motor bay. Be sure to drill a hole in the bottom for the motor wires. My motor has motor mount screw holes on the top and bottom of the motor body, so I was able to attach the lid of the canister to the top of the motor.

The result is a super easy, super effective motor mount that allows the user to easily remove the motor. It requires minimal scalpel time with the plane (a big plus in my book), and it requires only a $0.20 film canister!
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 08:57 PM
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United Kingdom, England, Ripon
Joined Dec 2011
309 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkanzelmeyer View Post
After I bought my first Bixler, I let my brother fly it, and he crashed it. The plane landed on it's nose and it was permanently warped. He felt awful, I told him not to feel too bad because he would be buying me another!

With my new Bixler, I wanted to make some mods that might prevent the same kind of damage to the nose. So I bought a sheet of woven fiberglass cloth for $6 and some resin for $13. When my new plane arrive, I coated the inside of the each half of the nose with resin and applied two layers of fiberglass cloth. When it dried, the nose was substantially harder. The added weight was almost negligible!

Also like everyone else with a Bixler, I wanted a better motor. I bought a larger more powerful park series outrunner motor (something like a 430L, 3550KV) and a 50 amp ESC. I browsed dozens of solutions to the removable motor problem and I couldn't find one that I really liked (most require major body mods, tons of time, or special tools) I didn't want the engine hanging out the back like the metal motor mount available for $15 (and I didnt want the extra weight!). Then today a solution finally came to me! I haven't seen this anywhere yet, but if you have let me know.

I used an old plastic film canister for the motor casing =). The top of the canister (grey in the photos) was attached to the motor, and the black canister can fits almost perfectly into the bixler motor bay. You'll need to remove a little of the styrofoam, but not much. It fits really well. I used bonding resin to secure the canister body inside the motor bay. Be sure to drill a hole in the bottom for the motor wires. My motor has motor mount screw holes on the top and bottom of the motor body, so I was able to attach the lid of the canister to the top of the motor.

The result is a super easy, super effective motor mount that allows the user to easily remove the motor. It requires minimal scalpel time with the plane (a big plus in my book), and it requires only a $0.20 film canister!
Im pretty sure that motor will cook itself stuck inside with very little airflow
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 09:42 PM
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Joined Sep 2012
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Originally Posted by Simon2504 View Post
Im pretty sure that motor will cook itself stuck inside with very little airflow
There is hole at the bottom of the canister where the wires exit and connect to the ESC. That hole will allow air to enter the can. I'll add some additional holes at the top to allow flow through the canister. Good catch.
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Old Sep 09, 2012, 11:26 PM
Argue for your limitations
ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
heat problem - maybe

Quote:
Originally Posted by kkanzelmeyer View Post
There is hole at the bottom of the canister where the wires exit and connect to the ESC. That hole will allow air to enter the can. I'll add some additional holes at the top to allow flow through the canister. Good catch.
The heat from the motor might melt that very small gauge plastic mount. A word of warning.
AJ
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