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Old Jun 28, 2012, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by ccsj View Post
Thanks for your input AJ and Vince. The warpage was a good call. I found that the horizontal stabilizer is warped up on the right side. I'm trying to bend then tape it to place but haven't gotten it quite straight yet. Any idea to robustly do this? Looking back I should have put the CF rod in it.
As for the receiver, I set up the two antennas perpendicular from one another (one up and one to the wing) and that has at least twice improved my range when range test. I'll field test it tomorrow. Thanks again.
I have the same problem, tail twisted. The plane always wants to turn left. And to confirm everyone who said "Don't leave it in the trunk" well I left it in the trunk
I'll just take two pipe wrench's and a torch and straighten it out unless someone can give me a better Idea.

Help will be much appreciated,
DJ
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Reegor View Post
This is a very good first plane. Stable, easy to fly, hard to get into trouble, easy to repair.

But I recommend that you not make all these mods at first. They will frustrate you, take a lot of time, etc. Since you plan to order the RTF, just use it stock out of the box. Once you have crashed a few times and gotten some experience, then you can go back and install the mods. Example: the hinges are certainly not necessary. The original speed controller will last for a while. And so forth.
Yes, you will crash, but it won't be because of missing upgrades - it will be part of learning. If anything breaks, you can glue it back together. (That's why the glue is essential as others noted.) You might be better off using the original battery at the start, which I think is 1300 mAh - lighter weight will make the plane easier to fly and make the crashes less destructive.
If you have the money, spend $35 and get the "kit" version at the same time. That will provide all the spare body parts you'll ever need. With all the add-ins you are ordering, you could literally build a second plane, minus the motor.

Finally, do not trust the included chargers. Read the thread called "lipo fires are real," and do all your charging 1) outside and 2) while you are sitting next to the charger. Very soon you will throw away the original charger and invest $30 in a real programmable charger. Even then, you should be very careful and follow both 1 and 2 This is not being over-cautious. My RC club probably has 100 members, and within the last 2 years different people have burned down 1) their garage, 2) their car, and 3) a two-unit duplex house. In case #3 the person left his charger going in the garage and went to bed. He and his family were lucky to get out alive due to smoke inhalation among other things(his report). I can personally report that a smoking Lipo will stink up a house for a week, even if there is no fire.

Nice to have: more carbon fibers of various sizes. They are expensive to ship because they are so long, but since you are ordering an entire plane they will just fit inside the box. It's hard to get anywhere outside RC stores. Velcro is nice but you can get it locally.

How do you plan to fasten the wings together? If one falls out the resulting crash will be no big deal. But depending on which Bixler version they send, you will soon want to strengthen the wing attachment. Lots of suggestions in this thread of different ways.
Seegor, I'm sooo glad you said all this to this young man. For the last two nites I've been trying to type out something like that but never posted it because I'm too new to all this to be qualified to comment. The plane will fly just fine right out of the box even with tx provided if you first hand glide it (no power) then trim it with the tx each time until it floats straight ahead with a slight rise.

The blitzrc SS I got from Banana hobby in February is version 4. It has a very large black rod that slides into tubes cast into the wings and screws 2.5" long that go down thru the top of the fuse thru wooden rings and you can take the wings off easily. The servo rods are on the inside not the outside.

If you want to fix it be sure to break it first.

I crashed my SS / trainer the first 9 times I flew it do to the learning process, bad set-up and wind. I can now fly it wind or not.

DJ
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Sculptor View Post
I have the same problem, tail twisted. The plane always wants to turn left. And to confirm everyone who said "Don't leave it in the trunk" well I left it in the trunk
I'll just take two pipe wrench's and a torch and straighten it out unless someone can give me a better Idea.

Help will be much appreciated,
DJ
Try heating the bent area over a pot of boiling water for a little bit. It will make the foam more maleable and easier to straighten.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by epyonxero View Post
Try heating the bent area over a pot of boiling water for a little bit. It will make the foam more maleable and easier to straighten.
Thank you, I'll do just that.

I found a new way to make a SS fly really bad. I got a 6x4e prop and put it on backwards. No power on climb almost no fly. But I didn't wreck it

DJ
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 06:28 PM
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Straighten my horizontal stab with tape and got rid of my dive right problem. Perpendicular on the antennas also help with secure binding.
Unfortunately, I've been putting off in velcroing the wings and today finally paid the price. Wings came lose mid flight sending my bixler free falling on to neighbor's roof. The spar was reenforce so it is still intact - wings just came lose. I wasn't doing any acrobatic but I'm flying with 3530 motor and 8x6 prop. I was able to fish it out of neighbors roof and to my surprise only suffered minor damage to the wing. The prop and prop holder came lose - no big deal. What a tough plane!!! Will repair the wing and definitely add velcro to secure the wing this time.......
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
I want to get all the supplies for the modifications that have been suggested (as well as a few spare parts for when I screw up) at the start, since I have a hard time getting things locally.

3. TURNIGY Plush 30amp Speed Controller - TR_P30A
I use the HK Red Brick but that should do as well if not better.

Quote:
4. Control Horns 16x20mm (10pcs) - 07-00502x10
Handy to have if you don't wire on the original ones. The glue can break and the wire stops you losing them. 10 or 20 Amp fuse wire or 1 mm copper wire, through the horn and foam and bent over - nothing complicated.


Quote:
6. HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Servo - HXT900 (4 spare servos)
Personally I've never found anything wrong with the original servos but they will be useful for any other plane you build.


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7. Nylon & Pinned Hinge 16x28.5 (10pcs) - PRODUCT ID: 008-00201x10
Get a few more packets, they are very cheap and handy to have - for the next planes.

Quote:
8. Spare Motor ??
I suppose a few too many inverted landing might damage the original. If you don't use it, fit it into the next plane (see Foamies Scratchbuild).

Quote:
9. Carbon Fiber Tube (hollow) 3x2x750mm - PRODUCT ID: CF1 ( 3 for wing spar, under the body and the elevators)
10. Carbon Fiber Tube (hollow) 4x750mm - PRODUCT ID: CF2 ( for the wing spar)
Not necessary but if you want to then do so.

Quote:
11. HobbyKing Super Glue CA (50g / 1.7oz) Thick
Gorilla urethane glue is also good for repairs. Sand off the excess.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
I want to get all the supplies for the modifications that have been suggested (as well as a few spare parts for when I screw up) at the start, since I have a hard time getting things locally.
Other items to add to the buy list -

JST-XH-CLIP3S these make unplugging the balance plug from the balance charger so much easier. They clip over the balance plug.

Velcro - get a metre of it, also from HK. Cheap and you will need it for your additional batteries.

Charger - get a better charger? Admittedly I don't know what one is provided with the RTF.
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Thanks. I think I have most of what I need except the motor and prop.

I will post a longer reply tomorrow. It is late and I am fading.

I need to choose a motor and prop. The RTF is out of stock for the next 20 days, so I might as well buy a Kit or ARF. I would prefer to get a motor that works with the prop.

Considering THIS prop and THIS motor.

Good ? Bad? Silly ?
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Please bear with me if this has been asked, but I'm posting from my iPhone & it sucks to search past posts on (I'll include my own answer to my question but want to confirm):

1. Does a 50A ESC run cooler than a 20A ESC under the same load?
I think "No" because current is current (the $300 1500-watt space heater does not porduce more heat or better heat than the $30 1500-watt heater). Without a heat sink on either ESC, no difference.
2. Would it be a decent idea to attach the ESC to an old CPU heat sink to help it stay cooler? I'll be using the plane (Bixler) for lazy-day flying and getting my son used to the hobby (no FPV, no aerobatics, etc.). I think "why not? It certainly can't hurt". I'm already planning to put some ducts on it for airflow (measuring spoon idea looks good).

Rob
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 10:12 PM
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United States, FL, North Fort Myers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Thanks. I think I have most of what I need except the motor and prop.

I will post a longer reply tomorrow. It is late and I am fading.

I need to choose a motor and prop. The RTF is out of stock for the next 20 days, so I might as well buy a Kit or ARF. I would prefer to get a motor that works with the prop.

Considering THIS prop and THIS motor.

Good ? Bad? Silly ?
Get the plane, learn to set it up and lean to fly it. Get off the mods, All of those come later if you buy the right version (4).

Understand this, flying is what this is about, not building. That comes from necessity crashing! and after mastery of the plane improvements and adjustments.

If you do it the way you intend your worshiping the lamp instead of the lite.

There are builders that make near perfect scale planes but they have others fly them, their interest is the lamp but they employ master flyer's to show them the lite, scale competition. There thy enjoy the 'Lite' of their creation.

Get it, learn to fly it, then fix it, modify it. But first learn to fly it.

You might ask when will I know that I'm really flying it? When you are so comfortable with flying it that the plane seems almost boring. If you keep flying this 'boring' plane there will be a transmutation. You will start to see yourself as the man in the plane and when that happens you will have become a pilot. The dancer becomes the dance. Untill then it's you on the ground with all your concerens and a plane in the air that dosen't care.

Second glass of wine,
DJ
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by robbnj View Post
1. Does a 50A ESC run cooler than a 20A ESC under the same load?
At full power I'd say yes because the 20 A will be running overloaded. I checked my wattage a few hours ago and came up with over 25 A at full throttle, 6x4 prop.

Does my 30 A ESC get hot? No, only slightly above ambient temperature.

Quote:
2. Would it be a decent idea to attach the ESC to an old CPU heat sink to help it stay cooler? I'll be using the plane (Bixler) for lazy-day flying and getting my son used to the hobby (no FPV, no aerobatics, etc.). I think "why not? It certainly can't hurt". I'm already planning to put some ducts on it for airflow (measuring spoon idea looks good).
I'm talking about just getting above ambient after a lot of full throttle flying. I do have vents (see my Blog).
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 11:06 PM
airplanes r made from aluminum
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As long as you don't approach the limit of the 20 amp Esc, no it won't but you will be all over 20 amps so in this particular case the 20 will be hotter than the 50. Mine has a 30 I. It ss series and it gets quite warm. 2212-6 2200 kv motor.
6 x4 prop
On 4s battery it will pull near 40 amps...


Quote:
Originally Posted by robbnj View Post
Please bear with me if this has been asked, but I'm posting from my iPhone & it sucks to search past posts on (I'll include my own answer to my question but want to confirm):

1. Does a 50A ESC run cooler than a 20A ESC under the same load?
I think "No" because current is current (the $300 1500-watt space heater does not porduce more heat or better heat than the $30 1500-watt heater). Without a heat sink on either ESC, no difference.
2. Would it be a decent idea to attach the ESC to an old CPU heat sink to help it stay cooler? I'll be using the plane (Bixler) for lazy-day flying and getting my son used to the hobby (no FPV, no aerobatics, etc.). I think "why not? It certainly can't hurt". I'm already planning to put some ducts on it for airflow (measuring spoon idea looks good).

Rob
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 11:27 PM
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Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shimmy View Post
Thanks. I think I have most of what I need except the motor and prop.

I will post a longer reply tomorrow. It is late and I am fading.

I need to choose a motor and prop. The RTF is out of stock for the next 20 days, so I might as well buy a Kit or ARF. I would prefer to get a motor that works with the prop.

Considering THIS prop and THIS motor.

Good ? Bad? Silly ?
Excellent choice of both. Get THIS ESC or THIS one. I use the 40A in my Sky's now. Don't use anything smaller than an 1800mah LiPo (think fire if you do).
AJ
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 11:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robbnj View Post
1. Does a 50A ESC run cooler than a 20A ESC under the same load?
I think "No" because current is current (the $300 1500-watt space heater does not porduce more heat or better heat than the $30 1500-watt heater). Without a heat sink on either ESC, no difference.
Maybe a fuller explanation - the ESC uses semiconductor switches and hopefully they will have very low resistance when switched on. However if trying to draw more current through them than their rating they will not get to near zero resistance, there will be a greater voltage drop across them which means more heat. Theoretically a 20 A & 50 A ESC handling say 15 A will be equally hot. Try pulling 40 A and expect melt-down fairly soon in the 20 A ESC. If you were to cool the 20 A ESC with liquid nitrogen you could possibly carry 50 - 100 Amps no problem.

Not quite a space heater analogy when dealing with ESCs.
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Old Jun 29, 2012, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Sculptor View Post
Get the plane, learn to set it up and lean to fly it. Get off the mods, All of those come later if you buy the right version (4).


DJ
Thanks. It is not that I intend to do all the mods at once. I just want to purchase (and ship them) at the start.

I am in Israel and the shipping costs start to add up. For example 3 props at $1.80 a piece.($5.40 for the props) add $10 for shipping. I don't want to have the motor and the prop and then find out that I need a $0.50 little adapter that will cost me $10 to ship. So if I can get the motor, prop, adapter, esc, and a few spares at the get go, it is cheaper. I would rather have a spare motor gather dust for a few weeks ( until I manage to break the one on the plane) than have to order it later, wait 3 weeks and pay $9 for the motor and $15 for the shipping.

To use your lamp-light analogy, figure that the wicks are not available locally. You would probably want a a few spare, in stead of hiking back to town to get one.
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