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Old May 17, 2012, 12:53 AM
Limited flyer
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It would also be neet if you trim up a three blader.
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Old May 17, 2012, 07:09 AM
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United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by divemasterphil View Post
Just finished a quieter Sky Surfer using a 9" Trojan prop (trimmed 1/4" per side), Turnigy Park480 1100kv motor, Hobbywing 40a ESC (overkill) and four MG90s servo. About one third the noise of a 6" 2200kv setup. Needs more nose weight. I'm going to pull the ESC and put it closer to the nose or get a heavier battery.
How many amps are you drawings at WOT and what type battery are you using?
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Old May 17, 2012, 08:00 AM
Soon to be CrashMasterPhil
Rochester MN
Joined Dec 2007
751 Posts
Using a 3s 2200mah Turnigy Nano 45-90c (more overkill). Pulled a max off 22a on a fresh charger.

I think I'll try the 3 blade next.

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Originally Posted by Eagle202 View Post
How many amps are you drawings at WOT and what type battery are you using?
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Old May 17, 2012, 10:08 AM
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Joined May 2011
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My motor started cutting out so I pulled it and the wires. The black wire was melted in 3 places. I turn it on for about 3 seconds and it wouldn't open up all the way and the wires got extremely hot. Motor shot?
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Old May 17, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Czech Republic, Olomouc
Joined Sep 2010
576 Posts
See whole thread about version #16 of the camera and external power.

Going to try it myself soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle202 View Post
Both of those options look interesting.

Are there any issues with either over charging the camera battery or draining the Lipo. I would hate to lose control of my plane due to the camera.
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Old May 17, 2012, 12:02 PM
Limited flyer
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Aerial shot of my new club field, can't wait to get out there.
No i did not take the pic.
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Old May 17, 2012, 12:22 PM
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United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavn View Post
See whole thread about version #16 of the camera and external power.

Going to try it myself soon.
I checked both the USB cable and camera connection and all 5 pins are present.

I also looked at the cables and camera pin out for my # 3 and # 14. Again all the cables and cameras had 5 pins showing.

Although I did remember reading in the #16 manual to only use the cable that came with it.
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Last edited by Eagle202; May 17, 2012 at 12:23 PM. Reason: added info
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Old May 17, 2012, 02:34 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grazer View Post
Here is a test flight I did with my customised Bixler carrying a GoPro Hero.

The longer term plan is to fly FPV, however I just want to be sure this will be a good platform. It actually does really well and will continue with this plane.

Enjoy!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64Sq7gXQNNw
The Bixler is a great plane for FPV, not necessarilly the most exciting but it can carry a lot of weight.
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Old May 17, 2012, 03:25 PM
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United States, NJ, Jackson
Joined Nov 2011
331 Posts
Here is what I came up with to hold the wings in place. I put 2 of those small 3m hooks on the wings and ran some rubberbands across the fuse. I cut a small piece of plastic from a 32 oz gatorade bottle to slip under the rubberband to protect the foam. It has held just fine through the first several flights. The hooks are held on with the supplied adhesive strips which seems to be holding just fine.
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Old May 17, 2012, 04:35 PM
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United States, NC, Statesville
Joined Aug 2011
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Nice idea Scooch. I will try that when I build mine.
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Old May 17, 2012, 05:42 PM
"I want more air time!"
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Joined May 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooch View Post
Here is what I came up with to hold the wings in place. I put 2 of those small 3m hooks on the wings and ran some rubberbands across the fuse. I cut a small piece of plastic from a 32 oz gatorade bottle to slip under the rubberband to protect the foam. It has held just fine through the first several flights. The hooks are held on with the supplied adhesive strips which seems to be holding just fine.
Has anyone tried just to use magnets at the root of the wing.
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Old May 17, 2012, 05:56 PM
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United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by Eternalflight View Post
Has anyone tried just to use magnets at the root of the wing.
I use 4 magnets to hold my wings together. This was fine until the opening started to enlarge after a few crashes. The wings stayed together but slipped back and forth.

Using the Duralock or rubber bands will anchor the wings to the fuse and keep them from sliding around. I also put a small piece of packing tape along the wing and fuse on both sides. It does the job but has to be replaced every time I remove the wings for storage or work.
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Old May 17, 2012, 05:56 PM
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Canada, ON, Toronto
Joined Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eternalflight View Post
Has anyone tried just to use magnets at the root of the wing.
My concern with the magnets is: the hold is strong while they are in contact, but as they separate, the force holding them together weakens by a 1/4 for X distance.

Point being....if they start to separate, they likely will.

Compare to the rubber bands, as they separate, the force increases to keep them together (as the rubber bands stretch, much more force is needed.) so they can snap back together.

Magnets are cleaner (if you can match the size / strength needed) but rubber bands are more secure... abet messy looking.
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Old May 17, 2012, 06:01 PM
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United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by idletime View Post
My concern with the magnets is: the hold is strong while they are in contact, but as they separate, the force holding them together weakens by a 1/4 for X distance.

Point being....if they start to separate, they likely will.

Compare to the rubber bands, as they separate, the force increases to keep them together (as the rubber bands stretch, much more force is needed.) so they can snap back together.

Magnets are cleaner (if you can match the size / strength needed) but rubber bands are more secure... abet messy looking.
Get the rare earth magnets. They are very strong. Use the rubber bands or dual lock or tape or or or as a secondary device to secure the wings. Your choice.

Check out page #1 of this thread. AJ has collected and posted a lot of good ideas about modifications including keeping the wings in place.
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Old May 17, 2012, 06:08 PM
Fixed and rotary wing flyer
United States, CA, Newark
Joined Sep 2011
161 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheSelf View Post
Hi all- I'm trying to help my dad get into the hobby with a bixler- I already helped add most of the main mods- can anyone please confirm the correct way to glue the stock arf wooden motor mount in and what the correct thrust angle needs to be (eg. Slightly down and to the right as you look from the tail towards the nose or anything else)? the wooden block has a specific shape and yet it doesn't seem so obvious as to how it fits into the foam mounting area as the shape in the foam that it needs gluing to isn't a particular snug fit with the shape of the block..- any pointers/pictures to the correct way to mount would be appreciated Also not sure how to glue the block in whilst preventing the metal 'drum' of the motor from touching the foam (to allow free movement of the motor fully).. sorry if this has already been answered but this is the only thing holding my dad back from flying and quite honestly cannot read the 1000+ pages here to find this out- thank for any understanding person out there who has any advice for this and can answer- cheers!
I bought 2 ARF kits (one for my dad and one for me) and with both, the motor mounts were already glued to one half of the fuselage through a gluegun. Here are some pics of the motor mount (which I had to remove - long story) and how it should be positioned on the foam. The notch on the right is where you'd run the motor wires.

When it was glued on my plane, the angle was about 3-4 degrees to the left of center when viewed from the tail towards the nose. It was the same on my dad's and when we flew his plane, there was VERY strong roll to the right. So we used a shim to set it straight. It helped a bit, but it still rolls to the right. We haven't had a chance to correct it further, but I would guess that it needs to be about 3-4 degrees to the right of center when viewed from the tail towards the nose. There are some other posts on this thread that mentioned the same thing. As far as down/up thrust angle, I don't know what it should be, but I'm leaving it parallel to the angle of the motor mount for now.


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