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Old May 11, 2012, 02:05 AM
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makind's Avatar
Australia, QLD, New Farm
Joined Apr 2011
134 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle202 View Post
I had a similar nose compression a few weeks ago. I first used a heat gun on both sides of the cockpit to soften up the foam walls.

I then used two Popsicle sticks and placed them on the outside of each side of the cockpit.

I then used a large clamp to keep the pop sticks against the fuse walls and increased the clamping pressure until the wall flattened out. I kept adding a little pressure until the canopy would fit into the cockpit properly. (you may want to heat the walls again to make them more pliable).

I removed the canopy and glued (hot glue) a new pop stick on each of the inside walls of the cockpit.

I then used 2 small clamps to hold the inside and outside stick against the wall. I did this for both sides.

Once the glue set up I removed the large clamp but kept the small ones in place.

I trimmed off any excess glue and removed the clamps and outside sticks. My canopy fit perfectly.

Hopefully when the fuse is back in shape your laminate will be able to be reattached.

If my explanation is confusing I will try to come up with diagrams.
I think i know how to fix it.
i dont have heat gun so i was thinking about steam cleaner or hot watter?
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Old May 11, 2012, 02:10 AM
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AshtonFlyer's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
hot water, below boiling temp (about 90-95C) - boiling water/steam will create massive pimpling

This is how I repaired a split HawkSky (the snapped sticks are to spread pressure evenly):

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Last edited by AshtonFlyer; May 11, 2012 at 02:18 AM.
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Old May 11, 2012, 02:15 AM
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AshtonFlyer's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
What do you mean by "laminating". I have never seen such a thing on a Bixler/SkyS?
AJ
I was thinking of putting laminate (both 'business' stuff and Solatex style) on mine actually. It can heatshrink to a nice finish.
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Old May 11, 2012, 02:19 AM
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ajbaker's Avatar
Lincoln, CA
Joined Oct 2006
8,422 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
I was thinking of putting laminate (both 'business' stuff and Solatex style) on mine actually. It can heatshrink to a nice finish.
Ah. Got it. When you do, please take some pix to share. TIA.
AJ
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Old May 11, 2012, 07:04 AM
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CPMBOY's Avatar
Malaysia, Sabah, Kuala Penyu
Joined Aug 2011
721 Posts
if surely it can be laminated....that would be great.......
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Old May 11, 2012, 07:49 AM
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Eagle202's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
1,603 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by makind View Post
I think i know how to fix it.
i dont have heat gun so i was thinking about steam cleaner or hot watter?
A hair dryer works too. Not that I own one but the wife does.

Just don't tell her I use it to repair my foamy.
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Old May 11, 2012, 07:54 AM
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Eagle202's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
hot water, below boiling temp (about 90-95C) - boiling water/steam will create massive pimpling

This is how I repaired a split HawkSky (the snapped sticks are to spread pressure evenly):

That method is similar to what I did but I did not split the fuse apart to do it.

As you indicated the wood spreads the pressure which is key to not creating point impacts from the clamps.

Thanks for the pix.
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Old May 11, 2012, 08:30 AM
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AshtonFlyer's Avatar
United Kingdom, England, Bristol
Joined Dec 2011
628 Posts
It needed a full rebuild as my son was a little too enthusiastic with the glue applications on previous repairs - it was close to a flying brick
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Old May 11, 2012, 08:52 AM
ICrashRCs
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Jun 2011
1,196 Posts
On those shafts that are slightly over 2.3 could you not use a little sand paper and spin up the motor to reduce size? Being careful not to use too much pressure of course. The shafts may be too hard but it's an idea. Don't know if you could lay a file to it or not.
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Old May 11, 2012, 12:43 PM
Fixed and rotary wing flyer
United States, CA, Newark
Joined Sep 2011
161 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
That motor and adapter you ordered will be more than satisfactory. Oh, BTW, I hope you have a 30A ESC (or larger) in stock. The stock 20amp ESC is not usable for the 2212-6. An APC 6x4E is the suggested prop for what you ordered. Keep us posted on your mod (pics please) and let us all know your experience with that motor/adapter combo..AJ
Yes, I have the blue Hobbyking 30A esc with 3A ubec and am going to use an APC 6x4E prop with the 2212-6. Will definitely post pics and video.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ajbaker View Post
Another thought - You can drill out a prop to 7mm and it will fit nicely on that stock adapter.
Good idea! I'll try that on my dad's plane since I have a few TGS 6x4E props from HobbyKing.
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Old May 11, 2012, 12:49 PM
Fixed and rotary wing flyer
United States, CA, Newark
Joined Sep 2011
161 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyRCs View Post
On those shafts that are slightly over 2.3 could you not use a little sand paper and spin up the motor to reduce size? Being careful not to use too much pressure of course. The shafts may be too hard but it's an idea. Don't know if you could lay a file to it or not.
I would try either of those as a last resort, but my motor is already messed up. The bell housing(rotor) got bent from hammering the shaft back on. And I'm not willing to risk cutting off the stock prop adapter on the other kit just yet, because if it doesn't work out, I'll have to order another motor and have to wait again. And I'm anxious to get one of these planes in air at this point.
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Old May 11, 2012, 06:13 PM
Why so serious?
2500GENE's Avatar
United States, FL, Cape Coral
Joined Dec 2007
5,972 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AshtonFlyer View Post
It needed a full rebuild as my son was a little too enthusiastic with the glue applications on previous repairs - it was close to a flying brick
Stop picking on bricks, Bricks fly very well.
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Old May 11, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Eagle202's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined Aug 2011
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Originally Posted by 2500GENE View Post
Stop picking on bricks, Bricks fly very well.
I have seen Gene flying that brick.
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Old May 11, 2012, 10:32 PM
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Joined May 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mozzartusm View Post
I can't figure out why I'm rolling very hard right from the second I release the plane. It's definitely a roll. I taped the ailerons flush with the wing and unhooked them just to make sure I wasn't applying any aileron but it still rolls hard. I let off the stick and with only rudder the nose and right wing crash into the ground. I have flown it and landed it but its a constant fight with me applying full left aileron. I don't think my wing is warped but I'm not sure I would know the difference.

Turns out that it must have been the motor thrust angle. Mine was the opposite of what ive seen in this forum. Looking from front to back mine was pointing right. I changed it so that it now points left if viewing from front to back. As soon as I released the plane, I could tell that I wasn't fighting it for the first time. Just when I was going to begin coming around for a landing something happened and it turned straight down at mach 3 into a nice pine tree. I wonder if the motor mount popped loose? Maybe I didn't get enough glue in after changing the motor thrust angle?
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Old May 11, 2012, 11:15 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
798 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by makind View Post
Third flight with Bixler and aluminum joiner for wing spar broke.
I will have to replace it with steel.


If i want to narrow the nose, do i have to remove all laminating and laminate it again or can i keep the old laminate?
What are you doing to your plane that you need a steel rod in the wing?
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