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Old Apr 10, 2010, 06:51 AM
There's magic in those wings !
khaled_abobakr's Avatar
Joined Nov 2006
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Cannot solder aluminum tab to nickel ones ??

Hi ...

I just want to make a 2s Lipo out of 2 bare cells, unfortunately I don't have any access to special flux for soldering aluminum .. is there any other way I can bond the two tabs together without that special aluminum flux

Thanks a lot

Khaled
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 10:49 AM
Southern Pride
everydayflyer's Avatar
Haralson County GA. USA
Joined Oct 2004
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Chech here

https://www.tanicpacks.com/product_i...a9a750511295d8

and they have $2 shipping on small orders.


I would advise cleaning the batter soldered araeas and the soldering iron very well when done as this flux is corrosive.

I use a seperate soldering iron with such and these days I rarely run across Lipoly tabs which are in need of it. Most now have a nickle strip spot welded to the aluinum tab.
Have you tried both sides of the tab? Make sure it is very clean and that the iron tip is also and freshly tinned.

It is a good idea to practice on a strip of kitchen aluinum foil and a piece of scrap wire if the spacial flux must be used. Also be fast as heat will damage the seal on the LiPoly.

Charles
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 12:34 PM
There's magic in those wings !
khaled_abobakr's Avatar
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Thanks a lot ,... that's a lot of good info

Khaled
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 04:15 PM
7000mw of raw power!
rich smith's Avatar
New Hampshire (not the old one)
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On all my modern low cost lipos one side of the aluminum tab is plated to take solder. No special flus needed.

The biggest issue is use heat sink between iron and cell and be quick or you'll risk damaging the seal.
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Old Apr 10, 2010, 09:46 PM
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United States, OR, Beaverton
Joined Feb 2008
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+1 on the Tanic flux. I have a jar and am fairly certain I could solder two sticks of balsa together with it if I tried. Use a little sand paper if needed to clean any crud off the surfaces and look for a plated side like Rich said.
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 05:58 AM
There's magic in those wings !
khaled_abobakr's Avatar
Joined Nov 2006
4,820 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rich smith View Post

The biggest issue is use heat sink between iron and cell and be quick or you'll risk damaging the seal.

Does this also apply when soldering a connector to the pack wires ??

Thanks

Khaled
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 06:50 AM
Southern Pride
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Haralson County GA. USA
Joined Oct 2004
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Perhaps if the leads are extremely short and you solder so poorly that you wick solder the full length of the wire.

In your case starting with bare cells then yes soldering th power leads to the cell tabs is same as soldeing cell tabs together in series. Be extremely careful with heat sink on tabs as a short will ruin the LiPoly.

Everyone should learn to solder well before soldering anything for RC,period.

As above I suggested practicing on kitchen foil. Chances are that the first LiPoly cell / battery that one tries to repaire they will damage in one way or another anyway.

Most LiPolys are so inexpensive these days it is not practicle to repaire them. If it is a $200 plus LiPoly then send it to someone suchs as Rampman who has the experience.
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 12:44 PM
There's magic in those wings !
khaled_abobakr's Avatar
Joined Nov 2006
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Thanks a lot

Khaled
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Old Apr 11, 2010, 08:02 PM
Registered User
O. C. CA
Joined Jan 2005
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From my experience, the tabs are prepared to take solder on the outer part of the tabs. If that part of the tab is gone, you can use this solder paste, or other liquid products to solder aluminum together. If you have a soldering iron that uses a copper plated tip, it will remove the copper. I am lucky to have solid copper tips, and I use the same one to solder these tabs, when I have to.

H.
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Old Apr 12, 2010, 12:04 PM
7000mw of raw power!
rich smith's Avatar
New Hampshire (not the old one)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by himeros View Post
If you have a soldering iron that uses a copper plated tip, it will remove the copper. I am lucky to have solid copper tips, and I use the same one to solder these tabs, when I have to.
It is just the opposite. All irons have solid copper tips. The good tips are iron plated and last 100x longer. Aluminum flux is a disaster for both types which is why I try to avoid it.
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Old Apr 12, 2010, 12:11 PM
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California
Joined Feb 2008
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I once had the bright idea of using cheap 40 watt soldering irons and machining the tip to a point to suit my needs. Well it worked great except the bare copper tip errodes away with just a little use. It didn't take long for me to realize it is worth every penny to get a decent solding iron with an iron plated copper tip. The iron plated tip works better, and doesn't erode away like a bare copper tip.
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