|Sep 06, 2010, 08:29 PM|
Received mine friday. Been flying it all weekend in still and light air. Flies faster than the UM J3 Cub at their slowest possible speeds to stay airborne and controllable. Easy to fly though once you get her trimmed out. Loud gearbox until full throttle - then sings nicely. Landed in grass and no broken struts or undercarriage. Resolution of the RX'er brick seems lees than the Parkzone bricks. Don't like the "toy" transmitter or it's trim adjustment method - Range is good - never lost signal even when it became VERY small out or up. Pretty and different little micro - easy to see in the air - orientation is easy. Small diameter prop with big wide blade - produces good thrust - easy loops. Stall is gentle with no wing drop - mushes along straight ahead. Is it worth $79? In my opinion - Yes. It's a micro, looks cute in the air and on the ground and flies well.
Uses the same 1S 120Mah and has the same pin orientation as the parkzone micros. 24 grams without battery, pilot or machine guns.
I will be replacing the struts and undercarriage with hickory wood and add flying wires after I open her up to change out the Rx'er brick with a Parkzone brick to fly her with my DX7.
|Sep 07, 2010, 10:51 AM|
Joined Nov 2006
dont forget to add the radiator on the upper wing too!
In stead of making the gear wood, just paint it to look like it.
Thayer had mentioned flying wires as well, he said on one of his models the addition of flying wires severely effected the flying, they are quite draggy.
|Sep 08, 2010, 06:46 AM|
Joined Nov 2006
Im VERY pleased wit mine. Flew it on the charge it came with and was very happy. Stable, responsive, easy to see and it looks great in the air too.
I was most impressed with the ease of landing it, perfect smooth touchdowns every time.
Take off roll is nice and will just run on the main till you giver her a nudge up.
|Sep 12, 2010, 08:49 AM|
Joined Jun 2007
PRODUCT REVIEW -- Flyzone Albatros-D5
PRODUCT REVIEW -- FLYZONE ALBATROS-D5 (Tower Hobbies code: HCAA2551) 9/11/10
[For an in-depth flight characteristics review see Thayer's post #16. Also rudderbud2000's post #61.]
I'm known around these parts as a booster of super lightweight "floater" type WW1 biplane ultra-micros.. so why did I grab one of these speedy demons? Although my favorites are the floater planes, I fly only outdoors and only in calm weather. However there are days on end when the wind blows too much and I become a shut-in. Now as long as the wind is 5mph or less I can pop one of these D5s up in the air and get my temporary 'fix.' (That's what happened this evening, just before dusk. I brought both my 23" w.s. (and wing area 2x that of the D5) scratchbuilt Nieuport 11, and the AlbD5 to the field. As I was loading the lipo into the Nieuport the wind suddenly whipped up -- cancelling the flight. I put the plane aside, picked up the D5, loaded the lipo ... and away I went for several good flights, even landing with a '2-pointer' in a crosswind, because the plane handles so well.)
1. Some stats: basic wt = 24.3g; MG and pilot = 1.6g; 130mAh lipo = 3.8g; AUW = 20.7g.
Wing area = 57.75 sq "; wing loading = 0.514 gms/sq ".
2. Prop is 2mm shorter than the stock Playmate prop, but the "fat" part of the prop = 15mm compared to 12mm of the PM prop.
3. Fuse foam is small-cell styrofoam -- more rugged than my fuses made from "packing crate" styro.
4. All four wing panels have molded-in "washout" -- enough to make for well-behaved turns.
5. Wheels have soft foam (or rubber?) tires -- make good shock absorbers. Another good design touch: the integral, one-piece wheel axle -- provides a strong, low drag method to maintain correct position of both wheels (tends to prevent the "wobbly-wheel" syndrome.)
6. All struts - cabane, interplane, and landing gear -- are thin .. low drag .. plastic.
7. Dihedral: upper wing only a modest amount, lower wing considerable (4[?] degrees) .... makes for great stability.
8. Angle of Incidence: looks like zero/zero both upper and lower wings -- making zero decalage.
9. Motor mount angles: considerable down thrust, but only a slight right thrust.
10. Scale-sized prop spinner: its large size overhangs the front end of fuse; thus in a forceful front-end collision there is a certain amount of protection against prop shaft bending .. the sideways excursion of the spinner-with-prop is stopped by the fuse border.
11. The front section of the prop shaft is fluted (longitudinal engraved grooves); this helps keep the prop from spinning off and makes a better purchase for the cement used to help lock the prop in. (I've been using epoxy, but I think I'll switch to Foam-Tac; the manual suggests CA. In general, I don't like CA for my flying models -- too brittle -- not enough elasticity.) I believe this fluting is a production step less expensive than the PZ method of cutting in a standard threaded groove.
Before splitting open the fuse let's take a last look at the exterior, the paint scheme. It's an authentic copy of the last commander of Jasta 18, Leutnant August Raben's colors, including the "raven" on the side. (Raben is German for raven.) The paint job is excellent. Only additions I added: painted the cockpit black (dark brown would have been more realistic); added the tire valve port (small black circle on each wheel); topped off painting the pilot by adding a small strip of white paper-- his flowing white silk scarf (all WW1 fighter pilots needed it to prevent neck chafing, because they had to constantly search the skies from all angles looking for the enemy.) (see fotos.)
OK, now we come to the interesting part -- what's inside the fuse (or 'clamshell.')
1. Run an Exacto blade along the fuse's horizontal seam, from the front to the about 2 3/4" from the tail of the fuse (at about the leading edge of the vertical fin .. or 3/16" in front of the horizontal stab's leading edge.) Do this on both fuse sides.
2. Then cut downward (on both sides) to release the top fuse half from the bottom fuse half.
3. Next pull apart the the interplane struts from their connection to the top wing. This completes the clamshell separation. This leave the entire top fuse half as an integral structure -- includes the motor/gearbox, Rx (receiver), pushrods, and tail feathers INTACT! Thus turning the top on its back we can view, troubleshoot, and repair the entire 'guts.' (See the attached fotos for details.)
4. First and foremost we see a major departure from the Playmate design: the motor and gears are REVERSED -- instead of being in the gearbox rear they are up front right behind the prop. We no longer have to contend with the spring to keep the prop and shaft from falling back (and disengaging spur from pinion gear.) This orientation is now the same as the PZ gearbox. A major improvement. BTW, Tower Hobbies now lists this new gearbox as "Hobbico Gearbox Version 2 Micro Albatros RTF" (Manufacturer's number: HCAA6350; Tower's Stock #: LXZM3) -- availability 'late September.'
5. Another difference: the pinion gear is now made of the same white plastic as the spur gear. I like plastic meshing with plastic, rather than brass. I think it's better mechanics. Also the pinion gear is now longer: instead of 2mm it's 3mm long.
6. Both pushrods are now 0.015" music wire -- one piece all the way -- instead of the cumbersome music wire/heat shrink tubing/carbon rod/heat shrink tubing/music wire combo that copied the PZ design. Much better and less expensive.
7. These pushrods are stabilized at mid-length by a thin bulkhead, which prevents "bowing" of the rods when in the "push" phase.
8. The antenna passes through the same bulkhead -- keeps it out of the way of the pushrods.
9. The receiver pcb connections to the lipo and motor are modified somewhat. Instead of attaching to lands on the underside of the pcb, they sprout out from lands on the topside of the pcb. Also mounted on the pcb is the male connector into which the motor cable's female connector plugs.
10. Re making "mechanical" trim adjustments (by bending the slanted section of the pushrods near the tail) -- there's apparently been an upgrade since the manual was printed. Instead of using pliers on that section, ignore that section completely and focus on the "S"- shaped pushrod section forward of the slanted section (see the foto closeup of same.) What's nice about that mod is you don't need pliers -- just grab the pushrod with your fingers and either spread the "S" or compress the "S" to get the trim change. Neat.
11. Re-assemble the clamshell. Some people recommend using, sparingly, a tacky cement (like Foam-Tac) -- NOT CA -- you'll want easy access to the guts in the future. Actually, I don't use any cement ... instead I use 3M "Gloss Finish MultiTask Tape" -- the same stuff I make my tail feather hinges out of. Get it at a stationery store. Do NOT use ordinary "Scotch tape" -- it won't hold and looks terrible. I put tapes on both sides, near the rear, in the middle, and near the nose.
12. Re-attach the interplane struts to the upper wing -- I use Foam-Tac.
13. The Manual. It's much improved over the Playmate manual. Also it's got good tips for the beginning flyer (although I don't recommend the D5 to beginners unless they have someone with experience guiding them in the beginning.) One definite improvement in the manual is the change in the "binding" procedure. Instead of having to hold down the Left stick UP trim at the same time as the DOWN trim --- all you have to do is hold down the entire trim piece by pressing on the green dot in the middle. Works with all the Flyzone model "FZT-324" Tx's.
SUMMARY: This RTF is a WINNER!!!
OK --- all done -- have to get the gear ready to fly pre-dawn tomorrow -- to bed now, get up at 6AM, "Dawn Patrol" by 6:20!
[9/12/10 ADDENDUM: The wind was blowing 5-10 mph this AM -- maybe tonight the "Dusk Patrol" will be out.]
|Sep 12, 2010, 03:56 PM|
Here are pictures from my AR6400/PKZ3351 install.
As stated earlier, there is a ton of room for the PKZ bricks and they appear to give smoother control.
I used hybrid parkzone CF rod pushrods (any will do) connected to the .015" wire flyzone pushrods. I utilized the stiffening bulkhead by opening the slots and putting on a plastic clip that keeps the pushrods in the bulkhead.
I haven't measured an AUW, yet, but it should be within .1g of stock, even after the improvements. It could be .5g less than stock if you use an old Vapor brick or Kyosho brick.
ImagesView all Images in thread
|Sep 12, 2010, 05:33 PM|
Many thanks to both of you for your photos concerning the Albatros. UNGN: could you educate me a little concerning your comment:
Tnx for any help you can provide.
|Sep 12, 2010, 06:15 PM|
|Sep 12, 2010, 06:46 PM|
I just got back from remaidening my Albatros with the J-3 Brick.
Even though there was a little breeze it didn't come apart in the air like on the first maiden. Amazing what flexible glue and a little tape will do.
It flies very different from a Parzone/kyosho plane, including my Kyosho bipe.
It flies around fast at high throttle. Like an angry bee. Then as you lower the throttle to get it to fly slow, you really have to crank in up elevator... to the point were you say "its going to stall and crash" and then you reduce the throttle even more and crank in more up and it still flies, though way tail low.
I'm going to work on the Zero point of the elevator so it has more up. You can't have too much up.
For stunts it will loop and wingover, but rudder rolls appear to be impossible...you kind of end up with a diving turn.
I'm going to need to stock up on spare parts, like nose cones and wings, but I really like flying it now.
|Sep 12, 2010, 07:55 PM|
Gulf Breeze, FL
Joined Jul 2006
About the Hybrid pushrods - what was your rationale for doing that - weight? I planned to just cut the wire pushrods about an inch aft of the board, make two short wires with L bends, and use heat shrink to join each pushrod to an L-bend wire.
|Sep 12, 2010, 08:08 PM|
The fear on the wire rods is they'll work their way out of the slots with the Linear servo's (which are taller) and not work under compression. Cutting the foam under the brick so it mounts lower would help keep the wires in the slots.
Weight is a wash... both weigh .2g, but the CF do better under compression.
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