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Old Apr 06, 2010, 12:05 PM
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United States, OR, Gresham
Joined Oct 2003
126 Posts
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First Giant Scale and first gasser- need advice

I recently procured from CL a NIB H9 100" Super Cub ARF along with a Zenoah G23 (magneto). This will be my first giant scale and first gasser. I am thinking of using A123s for the first time too. I will be using a JR R21 Rx and (7) Spektrum digital servos. Before I get further along in the assembly, I am seeking advice from you giant scale experts.

Are A123s worth the price over NiCD/NiMH?
Should I put (2) A123s into that rx?
What advice do you have regarding a kill switch on the G23?
What about RX power switch(es)/charge port(s)?

I am not afraid of spending more if justified. I want this aircraft to have every advantage of success and longevity since it already is subject to my piloting skills. Specifics (part numbers) and pictures much apprecitated.

I also picked up a GP Super Stearman at a local swap meet and I will use the same electronics, just a different engine (Saito 150) so what I learn here will go into setting up this plane too.

Thanks to all in advance.
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Old Apr 06, 2010, 03:41 PM
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Joined Dec 2008
293 Posts
some ramblings..... If you can stuff a 1.50 saito in that stearman you should be able to stuff a 26cc gasser in there.

The easiest way I know to kill a magneto ignition is grounding it.....just like killing a weed eater. That said, I would suggest a kill switch that you can use to have it grounded....then remove the idle screw from the carb and let the servo position determin the idle. to kill just close carb completely

NiMh, LiFe, Lipo.......even gasp Nicads all work, and work well, just make sure what ever battery type you choose it is big enough to cover your electrical needs for the amount of time you think you will be flying...x2
And that it can easily deliver 2 to 3 times the combined stall amperage for all your servos at one time. Then you will be safe and secure.
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Old Apr 06, 2010, 06:46 PM
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Noblesville, Indiana
Joined Jan 2005
253 Posts
Just remember that if you use A123's then you need an A123 charger. They are all batteries. Use what you are comfortable with.

You can use redundant batteries if want, I would recommend just being vigilant with a single 2000mah, or there abouts, single battery.

If your engine is magneto, then if you look on the coil there will be a terminal sticking out. Connect to this, through a toggle switch to a ground any where on the engine, like one of the mounting bolts. Flip the switch one way, the circuit is open and the engine will run, flip it the other, the circuit is connected, the coil is grounded and the engine dies. Mount the toggle somewhere obvious on the outside of the airplane, around the cowl. This is the safety on/off switch. Just like the off switch on your weed whacker or chain saw. Then like the gentleman before me said, adjust your low end throttle to shut the carb and kill the engine.

For receiver power switches, I use the HD ones that have the charge port built in. MPI, JR and sevarl others make them.

AND, several around here are using G-26 in those GP Stearmans, so use the gas engine and save money on glow fuel.
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Old Apr 07, 2010, 04:05 PM
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United States, NY, Medford
Joined Oct 2008
386 Posts
Hobbico Hydramax 2000Mah Ni-Mh

I have been using the Hydramax 2000mah Ni-Mh 6V from Hobbico and, I fly all day (6-8) long flights and, one single battery. I start the day checking the battery with a 250 load reading 6.6v and, end the day with 6.1v. The 70" ws Cyclone has 4 Hitec's HS-5645MG's ultra torque digitals. The battery is only $25.00. I love it.
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Old Apr 08, 2010, 11:39 AM
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RiBell's Avatar
Canada, BC, Abbotsford
Joined Jan 2003
4,752 Posts
Throttle cable

DO NOT USE A METAL CABLE or WIRE.
Gas engines can cause radio interference
If you uses any form of metal between; the throttle servo and the engine it can pick up the magnetic field from the engine; and cause radio interference.
It's best to use a plastic "Nyrod system" for the throttle pushrod. keeping the radio antenna as far away from the engine as practical. OK this is mostly a issue with 72 MHz but it is still a good practice to use. Loose metal to metal connections in flying wires and tail bracing can cause radio glitching. Don't let it scare you away from a gas engine just be aware. It's not as big of an issue with 2.4 radios, but it is a good practice to get into. After all I can crash without any help from a glitchy radio. either way I'm not real happy when it happens.
Rick
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Old Apr 08, 2010, 01:50 PM
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DG40's Avatar
USA, PA, Honesdale
Joined May 2008
523 Posts
Charge a123 Rx batteries with a regular charger using the DapterRx.

http://www.slkelectronics.com/DapterRx/index.htm

I've actually charged my a123 Rx battery with my car battery using a brake lamp to limit current.
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