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Old May 04, 2011, 12:30 AM
Never fly an A model anything!
jayb1rdz's Avatar
Antarctica
Joined Apr 2008
4,945 Posts
if the CF tube is glued into the fuse boom then the twist must be at the front end of the tube where it enters the equipment bay?

I could think of 2 solutions.

a) 2x parallel CF ribbons sliced in under the fuse on an angle so it looks like a "V" from the front or
b) 2 ribbons slced in from the base of the boom but a couple of inches back from the end of the tube on an angle up to the wing saddle.

I have thought about it too but mine is still in the box until I get my electronics sorted.
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Old May 04, 2011, 01:34 AM
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UndCon's Avatar
sweden
Joined May 2007
1,004 Posts
I performed some groundtation-tests yesterday - Flew the Skywalker in pretty windy conditions - bumpy ride but totally OK

http://www.undcon.com/2011/05/04/sky...station-tests/
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Old May 04, 2011, 01:39 AM
B to the O to the B
Ecibob's Avatar
United States, TN, Nashville
Joined Jun 2009
75 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by UndCon View Post
I performed some groundtation-tests yesterday - Flew the Skywalker in pretty windy conditions - bumpy ride but totally OK

http://www.undcon.com/2011/05/04/sky...station-tests/
Nice plane UndCon,

I'm trying to find that motor you put on the skywalker (the turnigy 1450kv) but its sold out
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Old May 04, 2011, 02:46 AM
OSUFPV - KF7VFT
Corvallis, OR
Joined Apr 2010
1,761 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon View Post
Uh oh.. too late.
My build is very close to stock, with very strategic light weight carbon strengthening.
This time around I used two smaller but longer ribbons in the wing instead of the one
super fat one I used last time (pictured earlier in the thread), mainly because
that fat one is unavailable everywhere right now. Wing is still very rigid. I
just joined the fuse with thick regular CA about 20 minutes ago, and it's good
and solid. I'll cut slits and add two small carbon ribbons on either side of the vertical
running all the way up to the horizontal stab, as I found that took noticeable flex out
of the vertical and the mount on my last one. I did CA a patch of Kevlar cloth to
the bottom of the wood stab mount before pressing the blind nuts into it. It's
now *much* stronger. I may do one other trick to make the boom less twisty and
if I do, I'll try to get pictures of it. Motor mount will be the same as before, and
that's pictured earlier in the thread. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...9#post17168504

ian
It sounds like I did pretty much everything that you did except I made one giant overlook - I didn't reinforce the wings at all. Sounds like you put a lot of reinforcement in the wings with 2 CF ribbons. Guess I better do that asap before I maiden mine...
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Old May 04, 2011, 03:23 AM
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Daemon's Avatar
Lakewood, Colorado
Joined Aug 2002
28,380 Posts
It was pretty simple. I just cut slits in about 1/2 inch behind the servo wire slot
from close to the root of the wing, out to close to the end of the ailerons.
Then there'll be another one directly above it on the top of the wing.
Because of the polyhedral break, the slot on the bottom is deeper in the center
than the ends. The slot in the top is deeper at the ends than the middle.
I cut the slot on only one side, widened a bit with a screwdriver blade, stuck
a flat CF ribbon in, checked to make sure wing was not warped (straight
on either side of the bend), and then glued the ribbon in with CA. Once cured
I cut the slot for the other side of the wing, and repeat the procedure.
The reason I don't do both slots at once, is there's a risk of the slots from the top
and bottom, colliding with each other (cut all the way through the wing). Not
the end of the world, but is annoying.

The ribbons I put on either side of the vertical stab are right behind the "Skywalker"
text and run all the way up through the upper mount, and down a good distance
into the boom. If you ended up with any misalignment between main wing and horizontal stab
(for whatever reason), you can fix it here by flexing or twisting the vert stab
until it's straight and then gluing the ribbons in place. Running them all the way
up into the mount area (end flush with the top) really keeps the horizontal
stab stable, and they totally eliminate bend in the vert stab.
Be sure you check that the foam just in front of the rudder hinge is well glued. Easy
to miss, and it'll allow the vert to twist.

Whether it's due to this longer vert ribbon placement, or better adhesion between the
CF tube in the boom and the boom itself (used a lot more glue there this time),
my boom is a *lot* less twisty than on my first SW. I see no reason to reinforce it further.

ian
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Old May 04, 2011, 03:55 AM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2009
717 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon View Post
As he says there, your results may vary. Around here the range of everything is shorter
due to noise from the city.
That's why i said, on "average".. so i believe my 2.3Km are fine in "my" enviroment.
Anyway the "baseline" would affect both the test with and without the vTx on (maybe less, but i should have noticed a difference), while there was none at all.
So my 1.3ghz is NOT affecting my Futaba FASST ... i consider myself "a special case" .. ...nor that i care much, i FPV with TRLS now and i use the 2.4ghz only for the heli.
Thanks.
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Old May 04, 2011, 04:00 AM
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Joined Apr 2009
717 Posts
Yesterday i got scared by this (it's not me):

FPV Skywalker Crash (4 min 10 sec)


...from the video it seems the FY20A gone crazy .. :O ...but he says that it was in place after the crash. My original plan was to install it *without* the switch to turn it off, luckily i've changed my mind and after have looked at this, it seems mandatory now, if you got it wrong is really capable of doing weird things!
There must be some heavy wind up there (near to the storm) i never seen a skywalker rolling so damn fast!
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Old May 04, 2011, 04:20 AM
OSUFPV - KF7VFT
Corvallis, OR
Joined Apr 2010
1,761 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon View Post
It was pretty simple. I just cut slits in about 1/2 inch behind the servo wire slot
from close to the root of the wing, out to close to the end of the ailerons.
Then there'll be another one directly above it on the top of the wing.
Because of the polyhedral break, the slot on the bottom is deeper in the center
than the ends. The slot in the top is deeper at the ends than the middle.
I cut the slot on only one side, widened a bit with a screwdriver blade, stuck
a flat CF ribbon in, checked to make sure wing was not warped (straight
on either side of the bend), and then glued the ribbon in with CA. Once cured
I cut the slot for the other side of the wing, and repeat the procedure.
The reason I don't do both slots at once, is there's a risk of the slots from the top
and bottom, colliding with each other (cut all the way through the wing). Not
the end of the world, but is annoying.

ian
Cool, I'll be sure to do that. Thanks for sharing the pics. You should paint yours with some sweet color scheme.

Blues
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Old May 04, 2011, 04:39 AM
Flying low is expensive.
pdiddyg40's Avatar
United States, CO, Boulder
Joined Jul 2008
2,398 Posts
Hello everyone. I was looking to buy a skywalker, and wanted an opinion on the vendor. I KNOW this was asked here before but I looked and couldn't find it, so sorry for the repeat!

I looked at readymade and theirs is $100, but is it the version 3? The one on lowprice is definitely V3. But I figured that at the same price, I might as well try to buy from the American vendor.

Thanks,
-P.D.
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Old May 04, 2011, 04:43 AM
Registered User
UK, North Down, Bangor
Joined Nov 2009
1,593 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon View Post
It was pretty simple. I just cut slits in about 1/2 inch behind the servo wire slot
from close to the root of the wing, out to close to the end of the ailerons.
Then there'll be another one directly above it on the top of the wing.
Because of the polyhedral break, the slot on the bottom is deeper in the center
than the ends. The slot in the top is deeper at the ends than the middle.
I cut the slot on only one side, widened a bit with a screwdriver blade, stuck
a flat CF ribbon in, checked to make sure wing was not warped (straight
on either side of the bend), and then glued the ribbon in with CA. Once cured
I cut the slot for the other side of the wing, and repeat the procedure.
The reason I don't do both slots at once, is there's a risk of the slots from the top
and bottom, colliding with each other (cut all the way through the wing). Not
the end of the world, but is annoying.
Hi Ian,

I cut slots extending out from the spar slots before the covers were glued on. They extended out to about 2" short of the wing tip. I inserted a 3mm x 1mm carbon strip and glued it along one side of the spar slot and as deep as I could get it into the wing. I then sanded a tiny bit off the spar covers and used plenty of UHU-Por to glue them in.

I found I didn't need to worry too much about the depth across the dihedrel bend as the 3mm carbon strip has some flex, so it curves enough and also adds pre-stressed stability to the wing. Obviously the glue and foam is enough to hold the spring of the strip.

One thing I noticed you didn't do was to cover the new spars with fibre tape. I ran 2 lengths of tape wrapped around the wing root all the way to the tip covering both spars and extended spars, plus another length of tape out to the aileron servo. So 5 lengths of tape in all.

Should stop the wing bending too much or snapping.
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Old May 04, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Daemon's Avatar
Lakewood, Colorado
Joined Aug 2002
28,380 Posts
I used wider ribbons than that (almost 8mm wide), and they don't flex at all in that
direction. I may cover with some other type of tape, but probably not. I usually don't, and the wings hold up fine.
Fiber tape will break down in the sun's UV light, and should never be used on the top of the wing or fuse.

ian
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Last edited by Daemon; May 04, 2011 at 12:27 PM.
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Old May 04, 2011, 11:53 AM
Tom Para
Tom in Cincy's Avatar
Cincinnati, Ohio, United States
Joined May 2003
1,199 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pdiddyg40 View Post
Hello everyone. I was looking to buy a skywalker, and wanted an opinion on the vendor. I KNOW this was asked here before but I looked and couldn't find it, so sorry for the repeat!

I looked at readymade and theirs is $100, but is it the version 3? The one on lowprice is definitely V3. But I figured that at the same price, I might as well try to buy from the American vendor.

Thanks,
-P.D.
I bought mine last Thursday from Readymade. It arrived the next day double boxed and in perfect condition. It is version 2. You cannot beat the service. As far as a motor goes many are using the Scorpion 3014-890kv, 3014 1220Kv, Scorpion 3014-1040kv . I ordered some cheap $25 motors from Hobbypartz and am going to try those out. What battery you use determines what motor would be best.
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Old May 04, 2011, 12:32 PM
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ashdec87's Avatar
United States, MI, Detroit
Joined Feb 2004
9,090 Posts
heres my latest SW flight. fpv camera was being weird, so the colors are off.

SW5211 (4 min 2 sec)
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Old May 04, 2011, 01:55 PM
Registered User
Joined Apr 2009
717 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom in Cincy View Post
I bought mine last Thursday from Readymade. It arrived the next day double boxed and in perfect condition. It is version 2.
The v3 is a big step ahead because of the wings, yes you may apply modifications, but having that spar in the middle is su much important that i wouldn't buy a v2 today, neither from the shop around the corner for half the price.
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Old May 04, 2011, 01:58 PM
Registered User
Denmark, Capital Region of Denmark, Brøndbyvester
Joined Jun 2009
600 Posts
What motor are you using for your SW ?

The ones I have been looking at, are all out of stock.

TR 35-36B 1300kv Brushless Outrunner
TR 35-36A 1450kv Brushless Outrunner
NTM Series 35-36A 1400Kv / 550W

Anyone who knows about a motor like one of these - which is not out of order ?
I'm going to us 3's lipos.
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