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Old Feb 10, 2013, 07:28 AM
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined May 2012
268 Posts
Funny to come on here right now and see a comment about locktitening the clevis screw. I just came in from maidening my skywalker 1680. It was not the most successful maiden ever, but I did not crash, so its still in the plus column. I did NOT locktite the screws on the clevis and the pushrod on my left aileron fell off on launch. Really. Quite embarrassing. Clearly the problem was not really that I did not locktite them but that I did not check the tightness again before flying as in all my checking and messing with stuff over the last few weeks the bolt had obviously backed almost all the way off.

Admittedly I did not check them for tightness before hand, as Ive never had this particular problem before. So I launched, the plane flew beautifully out of my hand, but as I started to turn away from the wind, I realized I had almost no aileron authority. So with full left throw, and just BARELY maintaining neutral roll, I throttled back and put it down immediately on a nearby hill. It was a beautiful landing, albeit terrifying. Dumbass.

Im psyched cause the plane clearly was going to fly great. And Im incredibly glad I did not destroy the model right off the bat because of my stupidity.

I do notice that I have way too much power for my setup. Im flying 4s with an NTM 35-42 600w motor, which had been recommended somewhere. I took off at like 35% power, and 100% would have been way more power than I would ever need. Wish Id bought a smaller motor that would have been lighter and would have required less weight in the nose to balance.
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 10:58 AM
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dk31's Avatar
Athens
Joined Oct 2009
776 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTheKiwi View Post
Hi all, having heard that many people weren't too impressed with the stock pushrods and horns with the plane, I puchased these ones:
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=8416
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...idProduct=9887

My question is, how do people normally connect these to their servos? I've gone el cheapo and bought the HXT900 servos, and the holes in the servo arms are significantly smaller than the 2mm of those pushrods, or clevises, or linkage stoppers. In fact I think I need a microscope to actually see the holes in the servo arms.

So, what's the best course of action? I could of course make the holes bigger, but am a little worried about either joining up two holes, or weakening the servo arm so much that it'll snap in flight.

What have other people done here?
These pushrods are for bigger/standard servos. Of course, You could make them work (drill the servo horns). You could even better, find some smaller diameter pushrods and clevises.
I have put the stock ones for aileron and modified these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ne-Pushrod-Set
for elevator. Maybe they are a little too small for the job though
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 03:19 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
subsonic's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
3,129 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by achiii View Post
Funny to come on here right now and see a comment about locktitening the clevis screw. I just came in from maidening my skywalker 1680. It was not the most successful maiden ever, but I did not crash, so its still in the plus column. I did NOT locktite the screws on the clevis and the pushrod on my left aileron fell off on launch. Really. Quite embarrassing. Clearly the problem was not really that I did not locktite them but that I did not check the tightness again before flying as in all my checking and messing with stuff over the last few weeks the bolt had obviously backed almost all the way off.

I do notice that I have way too much power for my setup. Im flying 4s with an NTM 35-42 600w motor, which had been recommended somewhere. I took off at like 35% power, and 100% would have been way more power than I would ever need. Wish Id bought a smaller motor that would have been lighter and would have required less weight in the nose to balance.
If you don't want to loctite the clevis screws, you can use CA on the screw threads (if you don't mind a permanent connection, or you could use these:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...s_M2_50pc.html
They are the same thread as the provided screws.

Curious that you say you need nose weight. The size of the motor shouldn't make much difference since it's close to the CG anyway. What CG are you shooting for?

Sub
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 11:39 PM
Gig 'Em!
TexasAggie's Avatar
United States, TX, College Station
Joined Nov 2010
655 Posts
One of my buddies made this video with clips from the past few weeks of flying. The Skywalker is mine as is the red Radian. He has the stock Radian.

We shared all of our raw footage, so I'm working on my own video. Stay tuned.

Weekend Flying (3 min 7 sec)
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Old Feb 11, 2013, 05:15 AM
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New Zealand, Wellington, Lower Hutt
Joined Sep 2011
115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
Drilling the servo horns is standard practice. Make a z bend at the servo end.

The parts you linked to make for a very solid connection. A drop of locktite on the clevis screw helps too.
Thanks Subsonic, I'll give that a shot!
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 01:56 AM
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New Zealand, Wellington, Lower Hutt
Joined Sep 2011
115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by subsonic View Post
Drilling the servo horns is standard practice. Make a z bend at the servo end.

The parts you linked to make for a very solid connection. A drop of locktite on the clevis screw helps too.
No idea how you made a decent Z bend in that diameter or wire. Using the plyers I could make a Z bend without too much difficulty, but getting it anywhere near small enough to be practical I could not do. In the end I'm just using linkage stoppers instead.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 04:19 AM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
subsonic's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveTheKiwi View Post
No idea how you made a decent Z bend in that diameter or wire. Using the plyers I could make a Z bend without too much difficulty, but getting it anywhere near small enough to be practical I could not do. In the end I'm just using linkage stoppers instead.
Not sure if this pic helps at all. I make z bends in 2mm wire with a vice, hammer and a flat blade screwdriver. Sometimes I use a small file to tidy up if there are any burrs. I don't know how others make them, it's sort of a technique I've refined over the years so I suppose it takes practice. Failing that you could always try commercial z bend pliers, but I've never used those.

I like to use z bends as the connection doesn't rely on a proxy grub screw that linkage stoppers have.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 04:21 AM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
subsonic's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined Jan 2007
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Looks like that photo got rotated. Stoopid iPad. It's of the elevator connection.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 01:48 PM
I tell her RC is cheap !
carguy1994ca's Avatar
Quebec, Canada
Joined Sep 2006
13,341 Posts
I use HK zbend pliers, works great so far and price is cheap. Beware of weight for the shipping though, I bought them when I had lots of room left for weight when I ordered my SW.
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 01:57 PM
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Daemon's Avatar
Lakewood, Colorado
Joined Aug 2002
29,108 Posts
I also use Z-bend pliers when I have em handy, but it's not that hard to make a compact
Z-bend with regular pliers and some practice. Typically I just make the first right angle
bend well past 90 degrees (like 120) then grab it pretty close to the first bend, and make
a new bend out to 90 in the oppose direction, which because of their proximity to each
other will straighten the first bend out to 90. You're better off bending the first one too far,
than not enough.

ian
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 02:07 PM
I tell her RC is cheap !
carguy1994ca's Avatar
Quebec, Canada
Joined Sep 2006
13,341 Posts
GPS, RTH, Video, UHF, all that technology depending onthe good old zbend to go in the sky Never ignore the past !
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 02:09 PM
Exodus 4:13
bhoov128's Avatar
United States, FL, Davenport
Joined May 2012
9,481 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daemon View Post
I also use Z-bend pliers when I have em handy, but it's not that hard to make a compact
Z-bend with regular pliers and some practice. Typically I just make the first right angle
bend well past 90 degrees (like 120) then grab it pretty close to the first bend, and make
a new bend out to 90 in the oppose direction, which because of their proximity to each
other will straighten the first bend out to 90. You're better off bending the first one too far,
than not enough.

ian
I'm with you. For light gauge wire, a pair of pliers and my thumb, the exact way you described it.
For heavier gauge wire (such as just bending wire for LG for scratchbuilds) a table vise....and my thumb
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 04:38 PM
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Germany
Joined Sep 2011
201 Posts
another suggestion :-)
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Old Feb 14, 2013, 05:14 PM
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Daemon's Avatar
Lakewood, Colorado
Joined Aug 2002
29,108 Posts
Ya that'll work, although some wire won't take both the bend and twist without weakening. I
sometimes do that though, and leave it partially bent down (toward the wing),
which helps keep the tip from hooking on things. Just have to remember to mirror
it on the other wing.

ian
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 06:51 PM
RC FPVer
surf1punk's Avatar
United States, FL
Joined Nov 2011
496 Posts
I'm building a Skywalker again, this time planning on placing the Rx antenna and Vtx on each wing. Any opinion on which side of the wing I should make a cutout for the Vtx , bottom or top of the wing? Will it matter at all for aerodynamics?
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