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Old Apr 03, 2010, 06:03 PM
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Joined Apr 2010
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Eflite Park 250 Shaft reversal problem

Is there an easy way or an alternative to reversing the shaft on a Park 250 Brushless motor? I've already ruined 2 motors trying to reverse the shaft. both would not budge at all.
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Old May 01, 2010, 09:56 PM
aka jsmbc101
Joined Feb 2010
15 Posts
Hmm... Well sorry I have no suggestions here as I've never tried it. Sounds interesting, though, I would like a front-mount outrunner for my aerobird swift. What is the method you are using to attempt this? I have no idea what eflite reccomends, so a detailed explanation would be appreciated
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Old May 05, 2010, 10:58 PM
Build 'em break 'em fix 'em
chinaclipper63's Avatar
Joined Oct 2009
439 Posts
I am also wondering...

Quote:
Originally Posted by high flyyer View Post
Hmm... Well sorry I have no suggestions here as I've never tried it. Sounds interesting, though, I would like a front-mount outrunner for my aerobird swift. What is the method you are using to attempt this? I have no idea what E-flite recommends, so a detailed explanation would be appreciated
Just got an E-Flite WWI foamie. I wanted to do the same. I found this on the 'net.
These are E-Flites recommendations. I tried it, and I also could NOT get the shaft to budge! Didn't want to ruin an over-priced motor (Sorry, but true) so I just mounted the darn thing as suggested with the carbon fiber tube. I will wrestle with the clearance issue which I KNOW will come up when I mount the engine under the cowling.

(As per E-Flite instructions included with their 250 Park motor.

Reversing Shaft Installation
This outrunner motor has a shaft, which currently exits through the fixed part of the motor. If you want to reverse the shaft to exit through the front rotating part of the motor, follow these instructions carefully for changing the shaft installation. NOTE: The user assumes all liability for damage that may occur.
1. Loosen the two screws on the front of the motor.
2. Remove the small black e-clip that rests against the bearing.
3. Slide the shaft through the motor. It may be necessary to use a small hammer to lightly tap the shaft. It is very important that you do not bend the shaft in this process so use extreme caution to assure this does not happen.
4. Re-install the e-clip on the end of the shaft against the bearing by sliding it into the groove in the shaft.
5. Retighten the two screws on the front of the motor.
Replacement shafts are available separately. Order EFLM1131 for a Park 250 BL Outrunner shaft.
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Old May 07, 2010, 08:52 AM
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United States, OK, Tulsa
Joined Sep 2009
142 Posts
Here is what the guy at the hobby shop did for one of my motors and what I have done myself for another one.
First you need a vice and a socket, the socket should be of such size that it will press against the bearing around the shaft and be longer then the shaft length. I would suggest removing the screws completely and the black clip on the motor shaft. Place the socket against the motor bearing on the side that you you wish the shaft to go, but the motor and socket into the vise and slowly close the jaws, the shaft will at first be stubborn, but it will give. Keep closing the vise jaws until the slot in the end of the shaft when the clip goes is against the bearing.
Insert the clip in the slot and reinsert the screws.
There is a blog about removing and reinstalling a motor shaft that shows the principle involved, you do not have to remove the shaft to reposition it. But you can replace the bent shafts in your other motors:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=3233
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Old Jun 02, 2010, 08:15 PM
MultiCopterPilot & Film Maker
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United States, CA, San Ramon
Joined Oct 2002
2,545 Posts
I'm thoroughly frustrated with my park 250; it's motor shaft will not budge at all! A vise with a soldering iron for heat didn't help. I now have a bent shaft and "bell" from simply trying to replace the shaft. I'm very disappointed in the design of this product.

http://www.facebook.com/topic.php?ui...34&topic=11907
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 09:14 AM
Jack
USA, ME, Ellsworth
Joined May 2008
16,924 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyj View Post
I'm thoroughly frustrated with my park 250; it's motor shaft will not budge at all! A vise with a soldering iron for heat didn't help. I now have a bent shaft and "bell" from simply trying to replace the shaft. I'm very disappointed in the design of this product.

http://www.facebook.com/topic.php?ui...34&topic=11907
I'm thinking that your approach to disassembling the motor might have been the problem. I have not done that particular motor but I've done a number of others with no problems. I'll bet I can get that one apart without damaging anything too. Years of working as a gunsmith and machinist go into my ability to do that.

There are two fitting forces that have to be overcome.

The first is the light press fit of the shaft into the bearings in the motor housing. You need to remove the circlip and slide the magnet housing/rotating part/shaft out of the bearings and away from the stator housing/bearing tube/non-rotating part of the motor. ln some cases you can simply put your fingernails in the small opening between the fixed and rotating parts and apply enough pulling forces to overcome the magnets and the rotating part and shaft will slide out of the bearings.

In other cases (when the shaft to bearing friction is too high) you may have to rest the fixed part bottom up on two pieces of metal (about the same thickness as your fingernails) and press or tap on the shaft to move rotating part away from the fixed part. You can see the concept I describe here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...5&postcount=10

In that case Manuel had the metal under the stator windings and was removing the stator assembly with heat. You want the motor turned over the other way and to only have the fixed part of the motor/stator housing resting on the metal strips. The magnet housing needs to be able to move down and away from the motor base.

That will give you two pieces and the shaft will still be attached to the magnet housing. The second force you need to overcome is that the shaft is normally a press fit into the end of the magnet housing and also held by grub screw or two.

To get the shaft out of the magnet housing remove the grub screw or screws. Put tubular object (a deep socket wrench for example) up inside the magnet housing with the shaft centered in the socket. The small the better, just enough clearance that the magnet housing is supported on the socket close to the shaft and all the way around.

If you want to drive the shaft the other direction, rest the magnet housing open side up on top of a small socket that is large enough to let the shaft slide into the socket.

Put a drop of oil on the shaft where it enters the housing, then start the process of judiciously pressing with a drill press or striking light tapping blows with a brass hammer or other malleable object to make the shaft move through the magnet housing.

Using the sockets or other tubular supports and supporting the magnet housing as close as possible to the shaft is what prevents the magnet housing from getting bent. There is simply not enough strength in the spokes and open for cooling area on the closed end of the magnet housing to tolerate much in the way of pressing or hammer blows.

Jack
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 07:43 PM
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Joined Jul 2006
298 Posts
Problem with a Park 300 Also -

Had a problem with a Park 300 also - the shaft was too tight in the bearings so I damaged one of the bearings taking it apart. I need to get hold of a new bearing.
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Old Jun 03, 2010, 08:12 PM
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United States, IL, Peoria
Joined May 2003
798 Posts
The new park 250 is a bear to move shaft- they redesigned for the L4 and made it a pain in backside-
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Old Aug 27, 2013, 10:16 PM
Itchy scratchy
Joined Aug 2011
56 Posts
reversed 3 no problem follow the instuctions from china clipper (above).
be very carefull the motor wires break very easly
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