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Old Apr 03, 2010, 05:17 PM
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Extremeflyer's Avatar
United States, CA, Rancho Cucamonga
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Question
Fiberglass Or Liquid Sheeting Over EPS Foam?

Okay, I have posted a similar thread like this in painting and finishing tips and thought I'd try my luck here in foamy EDFs as well. I've just recently purchased the 90mm Fly Fly F-86 Sabre kit, and out of the box it looks pretty good. However, I am concidering on going the extra mile here and try improve the looks by trying fiberglass/epoxy resin or a product by Wowplanes called Liquid Sheeting. I have no experience with fiberglass or the product Liquid Sheeting. One thing that I do not wish to remove are the original panel lines that are on this model. Any helpful advice would be greatly appreciated
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Old Apr 03, 2010, 05:23 PM
I don't want to "Switch Now"
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Toronto (Don Mills), Canada
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Have you seen this thread?:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=779470

I saw this one at a club meeting - it looked great:
http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=98895
He did the glass / wbpu method.

Pat MacKenzie
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Old Apr 03, 2010, 06:15 PM
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Yes pmackenzie I have in fact read the Fly Fly F-86 build thread. And some of the builds have turned out awesome! I'm still wondering if I should just leave mine alone and apply the decals, or try and fiberglass it.
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Old Apr 04, 2010, 12:20 AM
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I never glassed a model until I tried it on a FlyFly Mirage. I first filled in the deep panel lines with light weight spackle. Then I sanded all the parts. I have small cups that I mix 1 part resin. 1 part hardener and 1 part rubbing alcohol to thin. I used .56oz Sig fiberglass cloth and Zpozy finishing resin. I cut the cloth to shape then used a brush to dapple on the resin in the corners of the cloth to get it to stay in position. Then lightly brush on the resin starting in the middle and working out toward the edges. I have some Glad plastic containers that are filled with rubbing alcohol. I use one to wash my fingers if I get any resin on them and the other to clean the brush. Once the panel is covered I then scrap off the excess resin with a credit card. Then I roll toilet paper on the panel to absorb more resin. I let it set overnight. Then I sand the edges and lightly sand the panel. I apply WBPU on the panel next and let it set overnight. Once the whole model is completed then spray with automotive primer (Rustoleum). Then sand with 320 and 400 grit sandpaper. Any thin spots just fill in with light weight spackle. Then paint. It's no worse than applying iron on covering.

Kelvin
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Old Apr 04, 2010, 06:11 AM
Will fly for food
Maryland
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Instead of scraping with the credit card and then using toilet paper, I just warm the resin with a heat gun, once it is spread out on the glass cloth, then use heavy duty paper towels to soak up the excess resin.
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Old Apr 04, 2010, 11:42 AM
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I never glassed a model until I tried it on a FlyFly Mirage. I first filled in the deep panel lines with light weight spackle. Then I sanded all the parts. I have small cups that I mix 1 part resin. 1 part hardener and 1 part rubbing alcohol to thin. I used .56oz Sig fiberglass cloth and Zpozy finishing resin. I cut the cloth to shape then used a brush to dapple on the resin in the corners of the cloth to get it to stay in position. Then lightly brush on the resin starting in the middle and working out toward the edges. I have some Glad plastic containers that are filled with rubbing alcohol. I use one to wash my fingers if I get any resin on them and the other to clean the brush. Once the panel is covered I then scrap off the excess resin with a credit card. Then I roll toilet paper on the panel to absorb more resin. I let it set overnight. Then I sand the edges and lightly sand the panel. I apply WBPU on the panel next and let it set overnight. Once the whole model is completed then spray with automotive primer (Rustoleum). Then sand with 320 and 400 grit sandpaper. Any thin spots just fill in with light weight spackle. Then paint. It's no worse than applying iron on covering.

Kelvin

Hey Kelvin, first let me start by saying that Mirage looks great! And it was your first glassing and foamie good job. One of the things that I wanted to try and keep on this model is the panel lines if possible. And it looks like when you glass, you lose them. How about the weight gain after glassing? Did you notice a big difference in weight gain? Also is it difficult to cover the fuselage and areas that are not flat?
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Old Apr 04, 2010, 08:16 PM
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I was going to draw on panel lines. The panel lines in these foam models are to wide and deep. It would be hard to get the glass into the lines. The extra weight wasn't too much, less than 4 oz for this size model for glass, resin, primer and paint. It sure made the model very resistant to hangar rash. Every time I pick up a foam model I leave finger nail dents. My FlyFly Mirage Fuselage and wing when glassed weighed 2lbs. This included balsa ducting, battery tray, nose gear and main gear retract mounting blocks in the fuselage.

Covering curves is harder. I used several pieces for some curves like the nose. Then you sand lightly to blend them in. I'm no where near being an expert at this. If you can cover a model with plastic iron on covering and come out with a respectable finish then you can glass. The Zpoxy is about $14 - $20 depending where you buy it and fiberglass cloth can be up to $20 for a 6 foot length so it can get expensive to cover one of these large jets.

Kelvin
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Old Apr 04, 2010, 10:29 PM
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Yeah Kelvin, the total process to fiberglass a model does seem like a little bit of work. However the finished product does look good. One of the main things that I do not like about the styrofoam EDF jets is the fact that the surface is pretty delicate. On the flip side, they are easy to repair in the event of a crash. Oops, did I just say the C word I guess that you can't have the best of both worlds with a foamy.
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