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Old Aug 20, 2011, 06:06 PM
Look ma, no hands!
1Pilgrim's Avatar
United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
1,252 Posts
Thanks, Mike - I switched to the long control balls and high rate on the transmitter after only couple of days. I've been flying quite a bit and haven't had any problems at all since adjusting the servo pushrods (da manual is a big help with da terminology - who knew?!) and hover is rock solid. TBE was a problem until I figured out how to adjust the tension on the flybar - these itty bitty machines are really sensitive!

Jon
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Old Aug 20, 2011, 06:16 PM
Look ma, no hands!
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Yikes - newbie posted twice.
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Last edited by 1Pilgrim; Aug 20, 2011 at 06:19 PM. Reason: Yikes - newbie posted twice
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 12:19 AM
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United States, MI, Cedar Springs
Joined Jul 2011
124 Posts
Just did the long control balls thing tonight. It really zips around now!
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 01:06 AM
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San Jose, Ca.
Joined Jan 2005
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kamakzie View Post
Just did the long control balls thing tonight. It really zips around now!
Me too!
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:45 AM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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I just switched to the 160mAH batteries - flight time improved quite a bit. Compensated for the change in CG by pushing the batt'y as far forward as it would go; had to flip it over "label side up" to clear the servos; the label curls in so there is more clearance on the label side.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:54 AM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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I was having problems with TBE ("toilet bowl effect") and the manual wasn't much help when it comes to adjusting flybar tension. I ran the hub screw out until the flybar was sloppy, then ran it in until the flybar just started to feel the drag from the sides of the hub. Don't overdo it; the flybar should still move freely up and down but with no slop around the vertical axis. It seems to have worked for me; maybe it'll work for you.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 10:57 AM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Has anybody seen any aftermarket fuses for the MCX2 yet? I'm really interested in scale but can only fly indoors; the bigger helis are just too "hot" for me.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Charlotte Douglas, NC
Joined Sep 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
Has anybody seen any aftermarket fuses for the MCX2 yet? I'm really interested in scale but can only fly indoors; the bigger helis are just too "hot" for me.
http://www.micro-flight.com/BLADE-MCX.htm

All of those are for the mcx and mcx2
Just be aware that you lose your lighting system when you switch fuses. Also keep in mind that those full scale bodies weigh more and will cut into your flight time by a good amount.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 03:52 PM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
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I just went back and read the first couple of dozen pages in this thread - I guess my wife is right, I DO need to get a life Anyway, in looking through all those posts I learned most of what I found out by trial and error over the past few weeks. Lucky for me the MCX2 is a tough little bird - so far I've only managed to break off one of the fuse rods on the main frame, and that was from taking the body off and on a bunch of times just because...

I can't understand why noone has come up with any decent scale fuses for the MCX2. I'm old enough to remember the progression in model train gauges - "L" to "O" to "H" to "N" - and it seems to me that scale heli fliers should garner the same respect. Comments?

Jon
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 04:12 PM
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Charlotte Douglas, NC
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I would love more scale fuses but the problem at these sizes is weight. They just can't seem to make them come in at the weight needed.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 04:14 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
I just went back and read the first couple of dozen pages in this thread - I guess my wife is right, I DO need to get a life Anyway, in looking through all those posts I learned most of what I found out by trial and error over the past few weeks. Lucky for me the MCX2 is a tough little bird - so far I've only managed to break off one of the fuse rods on the main frame, and that was from taking the body off and on a bunch of times just because...

I can't understand why noone has come up with any decent scale fuses for the MCX2. I'm old enough to remember the progression in model train gauges - "L" to "O" to "H" to "N" - and it seems to me that scale heli fliers should garner the same respect. Comments?

Jon
If you have any bent (NG) inner shafts or broken flybar, they should work as canopy shoring. Do it all the time with my V4 so, there's no reason this shouldn't work. Worth a try. I have an mcX so, there is no shoring rods. Just throwing an idea out there.

In red (ok...pink): The mcX2 is still a relatively new heli, just over a year old. Patience Grasshopper

BTW, for you mcX owners, check out my blog on how to make your own grommets. Thanks to "jetskeeter" It may work for the mcX2 also. These darn grommets are so hard to find.

Mike.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 04:59 PM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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Bill the Wizard at my lhs gave me a piece of the tubing he uses for fuel liines - I cut short pieces to use as grommets on my MCX2. They slip right on, and I can cut them as short or as long as needed for them to "stay put" without sliding around.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 09:03 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
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United States, MA, Malden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Pilgrim View Post
Bill the Wizard at my lhs gave me a piece of the tubing he uses for fuel liines - I cut short pieces to use as grommets on my MCX2. They slip right on, and I can cut them as short or as long as needed for them to "stay put" without sliding around.
I use fuel line on my V4. I thought that may be a bit larger in dia. to use on the mcx2. Dang, who knew huh? Good to know. I wish the mcX was as easy

Mike.
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Old Aug 22, 2011, 09:37 PM
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United States, WI, Sheboygan
Joined Aug 2011
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At first I tried cutting the fuel line long enough to slide all the way in to the frame thinking it would stay in place better - mistake. The shoring rod is thicker close to the frame and in the process of pushing the line in I broke off one of the rods. Too soon old, too late smart - a 1/4" length af tubing works just fine and it's a lot ligher too.

Academic question (I hope): Why does the upper blade freewheel 10-12 times when I throttle off while the lower blade stops almost immediately?
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Old Aug 23, 2011, 12:56 AM
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Romania, TM, Timisoara
Joined Aug 2011
125 Posts
Long story short, I'm a new owner of an mcx2. While I'm learning to fly it (coming from a 3ch syma has it's downsides too), I've hit most of the known problems.

* oh yes it drifts left when moving forward, need a fair amount of aileron to compensate

* anything more than a light left turn when moving and, you guessed, wod

* the inner shaft hits the battery holder but only when not flying - in flight the whole thing lifts up like 1mm unless you changed the position in which the lower main gear is mounted, so this is not an issue

* the main gear is damn close to the canopy, sometimes I hear it touching and have to slightly reposition the tail canopy

* links between swashplate and servo pushrod hit the canopy, fortunately the servo is strong enough not to care

* digital trim sucks, cannot set a perfectly stable tail, and it needs in-flight retrim

* the whole servo linkage and swashplate has imho too loose joints, no ideea how much it affects flight stability

* mine also has a specific problem, lower main gear is not exactly straight but it does not loose contact with the motor gear. Improved a bit by bending the plastic gear to correct it.

The things I like: it survives crashes, even the landing gear that is so thin is ok (for now). And at some point I can look for 150 or 160mAh lipo's to get that extra minute or two.

I don't know about other makers of 4ch micro helis, I was expecting more in terms of precision and quality at this price. I will keep it and fly at least untill I learn, but I'm open about other alternatives.
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