HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old Dec 01, 2012, 06:31 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
396 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by stuball56 View Post
Ya, that has all got to be very frustrating. My MCX2 is very stable and alot of fun. I had this "perpetual problem" problem on my first MCPx. I finaly got it sorted out with help, from here. So, keep at it if you can.
Yep super annoying. I will keep at it until I get it working.
SR120 fan is offline Find More Posts by SR120 fan
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old Dec 01, 2012, 07:47 PM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,642 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Does any one know how many amps the built in ESC's output??
No takers...

I'll try again. Do you think the mCX2 ESCs can handle motors drawing 2a
valiantGLX is online now Find More Posts by valiantGLX
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 02:59 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
6,916 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
No takers...

I'll try again. Do you think the mCX2 ESCs can handle motors drawing 2a
If you have a multi-meter, which I'm sure you do, you can see how much current your bird draws on the bench... wide open throttle and working the servos... that'll give you a reference to start with at least of what the ESC is designed to handle.

From stuff I know you've made for your mcx2, I know you probably have left over male and female ultra micro battery connectors/leads you could use to make a cable from the battery to your mcx2 power plug that you could patch a multimeter into... remember, current is measured with the meter inserted in series so your patch cord would have one wire running straight from the lipo to the battery plug as usual, while the other wire would have an "open" in it so you could patch in your meter's probes... the meter itself completes the circuit.

Just a warning... make absolutely sure you don't put your probes in parallel across the battery when it's in current measuring mode... you'll short and fry your battery... ask me how I know (wasn't paying enough attention to what I was doing one night) You can only put your probes in parallel with the battery if you're measuring voltage.

I know you know all this... others reading this might not
North_of_49 is online now Find More Posts by North_of_49
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: HobbyZone Sport Cub S BNF
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 04:49 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,642 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
If you have a multi-meter, which I'm sure you do, you can see how much current your bird draws on the bench... wide open throttle and working the servos... that'll give you a reference to start with at least of what the ESC is designed to handle.

From stuff I know you've made for your mcx2, I know you probably have left over male and female ultra micro battery connectors/leads you could use to make a cable from the battery to your mcx2 power plug that you could patch a multimeter into... remember, current is measured with the meter inserted in series so your patch cord would have one wire running straight from the lipo to the battery plug as usual, while the other wire would have an "open" in it so you could patch in your meter's probes... the meter itself completes the circuit.

Just a warning... make absolutely sure you don't put your probes in parallel across the battery when it's in current measuring mode... you'll short and fry your battery... ask me how I know (wasn't paying enough attention to what I was doing one night) You can only put your probes in parallel with the battery if you're measuring voltage.

I know you know all this... others reading this might not
I have a couple back home in Straya mate, but nothing as such here in Berlin

The point of this is that I have a couple of larger motors I want to hook up, but not on the heli. Instead I want to build a plane, a f117 to be precise. The motors I have are rated at drawing 2a with my prop combo, but Im reluctant to hook em up at risk of burning out the esc's.
valiantGLX is online now Find More Posts by valiantGLX
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 05:31 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
6,916 Posts
Yeah, if you could see what the stock mcx2 is pulling wide open, you'd have an idea if it's likely to handle what you're wanting to do with it. Who knows, it might even be designed to handle more current than that reading, but to be on the safe side, I'd choose to assume that it isn't.

So, if you saw the mcx2 pulling 2 amps under maximum load (full throttle, moving servos around) it would probably be safe to assume it could handle one of your plane motors... if you saw it pulling 4 amps it'd probably be safe running 2 of your plane motors. I'd probably want a bit of a safety net and would actually shoot for an ESC that could pull 5 amps (assuming an mcx2 pulling 4A) to run 2 of your 2 amp plane motors. That seems a bit high for what the mcx2 ESC is probably running at wide open, but I could be wrong... the only way to find out is to measure it, unless Horizon can give you that info (the regular support staff might not have that info).

You might have to go for a plane ESC... maybe one of the UM or UMX's? ... but you'd have to measure your mcx2 first. Maybe you can grab a cheap $5 multi-meter around town or, if you have some time to wait... online... like a Harbor Freight type place?
North_of_49 is online now Find More Posts by North_of_49
RCG Plus Member
Latest blog entry: HobbyZone Sport Cub S BNF
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 02:48 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
396 Posts
Unfortuantely I haven't had time to continue trying to fix it today but I will do after I get back from uni tomorrow afternoon. I am just going to run both motors to see if they sound a bit funny. I am pretty sure the motor gear is not slipping on the motor shaft.

I am a little worried that maybe the teeth on the big gear that I am having problems with have worn down but there must have been an underlying issue in the first place.

Just out of interest. How could there be a problem with the board? The motor always spins and when the blade stops in the video, this is just the motor gear slipping on the big gear and not the motor stopping.
SR120 fan is offline Find More Posts by SR120 fan
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 04:24 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
396 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
SR120 Where you have been gone for a bit, please bring us (me) up to date again. Sorry. Did you crash this hard resulting in you taking it down to replace anything? One thing is for sure, the top rotor OR motor sounds like crap. This is why I asked if you felt the motors right after spin-up.

Some close up pictures of what HP is talking about would be awesome. Turn the blades a half turn between pics so we can get a good look at the pinion gears and their shafts. Also the whole motor(s) positioning.

Mike.

EDIT:WHOA, I just thought of something. What if this is a case of "frame warp, ala overheating" syndrome.
Sorry I didn't see this post Chap. I haven't been upto anything exciting unfortuantely.Just far too much work and college which has been getting in the way of my new hobby!

I will take some photos tomorrow if you think they will help.

I've just done a little experiment with the motors plugged in but not connected to the big gears. The problem gear is being driven by a motor that is making funny noises at anything above medium power and at anything approaching full power it is squealing and the pinion is slipping? Does this sound like a definitive diagnosis? I think you might still want photos as when it is connected to the big gear the motor pinion is turning but just slipping the big gear even though when I look close up it looks like the teeth are engaged with the gear properly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomsDay View Post
Mine did something very similar to that, The sound, sounds exactly when my motor went bad after the first 3 flights. I put a new motor in and it fixed my issue. On mine, when trying to spin up the bottom rotor would not spin up very well and after doing that several times, the motor was extremely hot to the touch. so mine was a bad motor. you might try the same, do your test and then touch both motors and see if that one is really hot.
I think I have the same problem by the sound of it. Was your motor actually spinning but not turning the big gear because it was slipping? If I do replace the motor should I replace the gear as well incase it has become damaged by the motor gear grinding against the teeth of it?
SR120 fan is offline Find More Posts by SR120 fan
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 06:09 PM
Registered User
DoomsDay's Avatar
Charlotte Douglas, NC
Joined Sep 2003
3,017 Posts
Mine didnt hurt the gear at all, so I didnt have to replace it. basically I took the motor off and was spinning the motor by itself and could hear clicks coming from the motor. When it was on the frame, it would barely spin the lower blades and sometimes not at all.
DoomsDay is offline Find More Posts by DoomsDay
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 06:18 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
396 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomsDay View Post
Mine didnt hurt the gear at all, so I didnt have to replace it. basically I took the motor off and was spinning the motor by itself and could hear clicks coming from the motor. When it was on the frame, it would barely spin the lower blades and sometimes not at all.
Ok so when it was in the frame it wasn't spinning and slipping? It just wasn't turning? My motor gear is turning but the big gear isn't because of slipping but there is also something wrong with the motor. It isn't clicking just screeching.
SR120 fan is offline Find More Posts by SR120 fan
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 06:28 PM
Registered User
DoomsDay's Avatar
Charlotte Douglas, NC
Joined Sep 2003
3,017 Posts
still sounds like a bad motor to me. The clicking I was hearing was the motor slipping.
DoomsDay is offline Find More Posts by DoomsDay
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 06:32 PM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
396 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DoomsDay View Post
still sounds like a bad motor to me. The clicking I was hearing was the motor slipping.
Oh I see. Yes it does sound pretty much the same as mine clicks at high speeds as it slips. I will try my chances with the vendor to see if they will send one out for free. If not I will just order one. Thanks
SR120 fan is offline Find More Posts by SR120 fan
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 07:52 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,485 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SR120 fan View Post
Oh I see. Yes it does sound pretty much the same as mine clicks at high speeds as it slips. I will try my chances with the vendor to see if they will send one out for free. If not I will just order one. Thanks
If this heli was bought used, replace both motors. You only replace one motor if you know for a "fact" both motors are still "somewhat" new. Otherwise the golden rule is to replace both motors on a coax regardless of which motor is going bad.

Mike.
Chap1012 is offline Find More Posts by Chap1012
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 02, 2012, 10:52 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,295 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chap1012 View Post
If this heli was bought used, replace both motors. You only replace one motor if you know for a "fact" both motors are still "somewhat" new. Otherwise the golden rule is to replace both motors on a coax regardless of which motor is going bad.

Mike.
+1
Jake8131 is online now Find More Posts by Jake8131
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 12:22 AM
Registered User
United Kingdom, England, Kent
Joined Sep 2012
396 Posts
The heli was bought new in October and has had hardly any flight time but if the motors are renowned for not lasting long then I will get two.

I have emailed the vendor to see what they say.

Does this sound like the motors are all that is wrong? Should I still put photos/a vid up?
SR120 fan is offline Find More Posts by SR120 fan
Last edited by SR120 fan; Dec 03, 2012 at 12:36 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old Dec 03, 2012, 12:25 AM
Which way is up?
stuball56's Avatar
Michigan, USA
Joined Mar 2008
686 Posts
I think the reason for replacing both at the same time is so that they will be more synchronized in speed/amp draw etc. Like "matched" batteries, you have more of a matched motor setup. If one is old, weak and slow and the other is new, stronger and faster, well........
stuball56 is offline Find More Posts by stuball56
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Sold Eflite Blade MSR Plus 2.4ghz Eflite Transmitter soaringcam Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 4 Apr 07, 2010 10:27 AM
Sold EFLITE BLADE MSR+BLADE 400+DX6i dhmojo Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 7 Mar 29, 2010 10:38 PM
Sold Blade MCX2 LNIB mgroves Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 1 Mar 23, 2010 11:17 AM
For Sale Trade, eflite blades for eflite blades....Sell Blade CP Pro NIB with extras. kdill2160 Aircraft - Electric - Helis (FS/W) 1 Sep 02, 2006 09:28 AM
Alert Eflite Blade CX - 2nd Eflite heli jschenck Coaxial Helicopters 26 Oct 24, 2005 01:48 AM