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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:32 PM
Which way is up?
stuball56's Avatar
Michigan, USA
Joined Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Oh, come on, man.. people here know me better than that... look at all the shite I've done to mine. I said "why bother" in reference to thinking he must be trying to conserve battery during the day when you can't see the lights... "why bother" meaning that's not necessary... and I explained why.


Lighten up, guys... 2 of you have obviously misunderstood my post... maybe read it again.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2430
Ok, no problem here.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:34 PM
Which way is up?
stuball56's Avatar
Michigan, USA
Joined Mar 2008
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Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Dont worry about it, just came out a bit rough is all. Im sure no milk was spilt over it
But I did cry a little.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:37 PM
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Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Thats not good take the main gears off, then see if the motors spin freely.
I meant up and down, they spin just fine

I was able to push hard enough to allow it to finally slide down. Seems much better! I will take a look at your link. My shaft does have up and down play and hits the center beam above the battery. Perhaps spacing it down will allow my battery to slide all the way in as well.

Thanks for the info! I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:37 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Dont worry about it, just came out a bit rough is all. Im sure no milk was spilt over it
I just edited my original post with a disclaimer at the bottom... to clear up the "why bother?" statement and what it was in reference to.

Yes, you, as well as the regulars here, know I'm certainly not opposed to doing shite to a mcx2 or any other RC... you should see my Champ



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Last edited by North_of_49; Nov 13, 2012 at 01:48 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:38 PM
Master of Micro Modding
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Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Lighten up, guys...
Pun totally intended
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 01:46 PM
Master of Micro Modding
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Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
I meant up and down, they spin just fine

I was able to push hard enough to allow it to finally slide down. Seems much better! I will take a look at your link. My shaft does have up and down play and hits the center beam above the battery. Perhaps spacing it down will allow my battery to slide all the way in as well.

Thanks for the info! I'll let you know how it goes.
oops good news is that they spin though

There shouldnt be any play in the shaft, just loosen it then jam it altogether and give it a tight screw.

... And thats not what she said

But in all seriousness loosen the screws on the bottom gear, then press down the flybar and gear together, then while still holding it tighten the screws back up
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Nice light job on your cubby champ like thingy. Did you use a remote switch for them or are they hard wired in? I guess they must be hard wired though cause that things only 3ch, right? Or does it have more than 3 ch's but only uses 3 (like the ar6400 uses 4ch but has 6)? Either way they look good.

I did my mustang too, oh and my dx6i (it looks bluish in the clip but its actually white):
Parkzone p 51 Mustang lights + more (2 min 18 sec)
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 02:28 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
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Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Nice light job on your cubby champ like thingy. Did you use a remote switch for them or are they hard wired in? I guess they must be hard wired though cause that things only 3ch, right? Or does it have more than 3 ch's but only uses 3 (like the ar6400 uses 4ch but has 6)? Either way they look good.

I did my mustang too, oh and my dx6i (it looks bluish in the clip but its actually white): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NxXXo1tBTC8
Nice, bro

Yeah, my Champ is still stock 3 channel. Lights are hard wired and either run off a second lipo (my Scout CX 70mah) or piggyback off my main battery using a Y adapter. The tail anti-collision light is actually strobed with a 7556 dual timer chip circuit I built... 2 quick blips then 1 second pause... like the planes that fly over my house all day/night... I have a video link of it posted somewhere in one of the threads. I OCD about stuff looking scale... it's also got scale bushwheels/tires, wing struts, tail brace wires, scale landing gear, windshield goes up over the top etc. The guys wanted me to do a write-up on the lights and add it to my blog... it's on my list of things to do... am busy winterizing my surface RCs right now
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Nice, bro

Yeah, my Champ is still stock 3 channel. Lights are hard wired and either run off a second lipo (my Scout CX 70mah) or piggyback off my main battery using a Y adapter. The tail anti-collision light is actually strobed with a 7556 dual timer chip circuit I built... 2 quick blips then 1 second pause... like the planes that fly over my house all day/night... I have a video link of it posted somewhere in one of the threads. I OCD about stuff looking scale... it's also got scale bushwheels/tires, wing struts, tail brace wires, scale landing gear, windshield goes up over the top etc. The guys wanted me to do a write-up on the lights and add it to my blog... it's on my list of things to do... am busy winterizing my surface RCs right now
cool

How did you build the 7556 dual timer chip circuit?
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 03:51 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
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Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
cool

How did you build the 7556 dual timer chip circuit?
That requires a rather lengthy answer... and is why I need to do a proper write-up on my blog about it when I have time. I talked about some of it in one of the Champ threads when another member wanted to maybe partner with me and make and sell them... didn't really want to go down that road.. I know that you, yourself, know the pitfalls and headaches of doing that sort of thing.

When I started I knew nothing about 755 timers and their variants, but I found some good websites and gave myself an education on it... spent several weeks learning and implementing.

Here's a vid of breadboard prototyping and a final vid. You'll have to click the player's link and go to YouTube to watch it... the embedded player here in the forum cripples the frame-rate and that will interfere with seeing the true strobe pattern I set up... sometimes you'll only see one blip and sometimes none at all

(my apologies to everyone else for the off topic

Hobbyzone Champ LED mod strobe 7556 timer circuit (1 min 40 sec)

Hobbyzone Champ LED mod 7556 dual timer IC strobe part2 (2 min 6 sec)
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
That requires a rather lengthy answer... and is why I need to do a proper write-up on my blog about it when I have time.
I cant wait.

Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
when another member wanted to maybe partner with me and make and sell them... didn't really want to go down that road.. I know that you, yourself, know the pitfalls and headaches of doing that sort of thing.
Absolutely, not worth the time. I initially made the mcx2 tailbooms because I had to buy the equipment required for my own tail boom in bulk, and I thought making a few more and trying to sell them would cover my costs. Wrong! as it turns out I cant even sell them for 20 EUR a piece, which combined just covers my costs. Now I dont know what to do with them

Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
When I started I knew nothing about 755 timers and their variants, but I found some good websites and gave myself an education on it... spent several weeks learning and implementing.
So how much does your flasher unit weigh? I looked into pickaxe chips a while back which looks to be like a similar set up, but I never went ahead with it.

I was hoping you had a simple solution like strap a few resistors and diodes thogether, and bobs ya uncle


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Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
(my apologies to everyone else for the off topic
Me too!
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:21 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Canada, AB, Edmonton
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EDIT
meant to say "555" timers and their variants.

555 is a single timer chip but requires a minimum 5v voltage so you can't run it off a 1S lipo. 556 is a dual timer version of it. 7555 is a cmos version of it that only requires 2v to operate it... 7556 is the dual timer version of it.

Basically, you hook up resistors and capacitors (I added a diode for a very specific reason related to my strobe pattern) to set the timing you want. I needed either a dual timer or run one single into another single to set up the pattern I wanted...
= short blip
- = pause

•-•----------•-•----------•-•----------

As you can see, one of the timers (electrically, the second one in the chain of two) creates the short quick blips... they are actually a constant stream of them, but they only get turned on for a fraction of a second by the first timer which is in effect their power supply (just long enough to let 2 of them through)... timer #1 triggers timer #2 about once every second. I set a short duty cycle (ratio of "on" time to "off" time) on the first timer which is the one that turns the second timer on and off... which is why timer #2 only gets 2 blips through it then shuts off for a while.... the whole thing just repeats forever.

PS - diodes let you set duty cycle... without them you're stuck with 50/50 on-off ratio. I used one on each timer to get what I wanted.

I can pm you about it if you want.
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Last edited by North_of_49; Nov 13, 2012 at 05:30 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:26 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Just read your reply... the particular chip I used is very light weight... it's the chunk of pc board I used that added all the weight... oh, and don't buy ceramic dipped chips... they're heavy. Some versions of the chips are surface mount... very small and light weight but I haven't figured out how I'd connect stuff to their pins. I think my circuit weighs about 3g or 4g but that's with the piece of pc board. I could do it point to point without a board at all but it would be a pain... I'd have to make a temporary pc board out of thick paper or cardboard or something just to hold everything in place to solder then rip it out
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Last edited by North_of_49; Nov 13, 2012 at 04:36 PM.
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 04:30 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
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Valiant, I edited some crucial typos in my last couple of post, maybe re-read, bro
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Old Nov 13, 2012, 07:48 PM
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Well a little update. I was able to push the motor down a bit to give the gear some clearance as mentioned in my previous post. I estimate it to be maybe 3/4 of a millimeter, about the same as the other. I also tightened up the lower gear against the bottom and got rid of the play. I was able to space out the landing gear using a spare grommet like the link depicted and that gave me enough room to slide the battery forward. I was stoked!

...until I flew it again. Problem is still there.

If I go to about replacing it, should I go to the place of purchase or straight to blade?

EDIT: I guess I should mention that I looked at the gap between the gears and the opposite motor and it appears to have remained "enlarged" so the motor did push back up.
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