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Old Aug 30, 2012, 06:52 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,519 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by walt007 View Post
valiantGLX,

I'm attempting to enter your settings into my Dx6i but running into some issues (on my end). I've got no forward elevator and the back seems to be weak. .This is my first time configuring the radio. Throttle and rudder are perfect though. Does anyone know what I might be doing wrong?
Is the elevator issue occuring when you are in the air, or when the heli is sitting. Does the servo still travel as normal when the heli is sitting?

I think at this stage you need to manually trim it so you dont need any digital trim, However there may be an issue with your travel adjust settings, and/or dual rates
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 07:36 AM
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Joined Aug 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Is the elevator issue occuring when you are in the air, or when the heli is sitting. Does the servo still travel as normal when the heli is sitting?

I think at this stage you need to manually trim it so you dont need any digital trim, However there may be an issue with your travel adjust settings, and/or dual rates

Both ways... it just won't move forward. I messed around with the trim. I'll check the travel adjust and dual rates again.

Barry
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 08:09 AM
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Joined Aug 2012
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I went back through and it's working better although I need to work on the trim a bit.
The heli is just drifting a lot for some reason.

Overall, your settings seem to be great though. They are much better than the RTF version I was using... much easier for a beginner. It could be that I'm getting better though.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 08:29 AM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,221 Posts
Walt007, Make sure the batt is not contacting the servo gear. This happens when the batt is pushed in too far. Also check to make sure the pushrods are not contacting the fuse.

Mike.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 09:29 AM
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Chap, thank you! It works just fine now. I should have figured this was the problem.

And thank you again valiant, these settings are perfect for me at this point.

Barry
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 06:26 PM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by walt007 View Post
Chap, thank you! It works just fine now. I should have figured this was the problem.

And thank you again valiant, these settings are perfect for me at this point.

Barry
Do the landing skid mod...take two of the spare canopy grommets and put one on each of the posts of the skid, then pop the skid back on...now you clearance to use longer batteries.
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Old Sep 02, 2012, 03:15 AM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,221 Posts
If you want your MCX2 to fly like it is on steroids, put this into your DX6i!

Set up List MCX2 On Steroids



Model Type-heli
reverse-N(all of them)
Swash Type-90*1 servo
D/R Combi-D/R SW: ELEV


Adjust List



D/R & EXPO
Be sure Elev D/R switch is in the 0 position to enter the first set of numbers.
AILE 0 75% +20%
ELEV 0 75% +20%
RUD 0 75% +20%
Now flip the Elev D/R switch to 1 to enter the next set of numbers
AILE 1 100% -5%
ELEV 1 100% -5%
RUDD 1 100% -5%

GYRO
RATE SW-GYRO
0: 0.0%
1: <100.0%

Throttle CUR
NORM +POS L 0.0%
pos 2 30.0%
pos 3 45.0%
pos 4 60.0%
pos H 75.0%
STUNT pos L 0.0%
pos 2 40.0%
pos 3 60.0%
pos 4 80.0%
pos H 100.0%
HOLD -0.0%

Travel ADJ
THRO – 100% - 100%
AILE – 110% - 110%
ELEV – 120% - 120%
RUDD – 125% - 125%
GYRO – 100% - 100%
PITC – 100% - 100%

MIX 1
INH
MIX 2
INH



Instructions



Keep all your switches to 0 to start with.

If you flip the GEAR/F mode button to 1 you will have a more aggressive throttle curve.

The ELEV D/R switch will control the sensitivity of the sticks, like a high/low rate.

Also if you flip the gyro switch to 1 it will transform your Heli into an extreme beast, capable of new aerobatic stunts and maneuvers.

To have more or less sensitive I toggle between 0 and 1 with the ELEV D/R switch.

For a less aggressive throttle keep the GEAR/F MODE switch to 0. After you turn on your radio you can switch the GEAR/F MODE to the 1 position. When you turn off your radio then when you go to turn it on again it will beep until you put the GEAR/F MODE switch back to 0.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 11:48 AM
npm
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Portland OR
Joined Jan 2003
86 Posts
Battle weary copter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by npm View Post
I'm working on getting some still pictures up in the next day or so, then let the whooping begin. :
Well it took a little longer to get the pictures than I thought. Anyways.....here is a shot right after I broke the inner shaft. It had been shaking like a wet dog for the last week or so and I knew from experience that's the precursor for shaft failure. It was time for a pretty major rebuild, the pinion gears on the motors were very worn along with the ring gears. I put in a new frame, landing gear, inner and outer shafts, new motors, and new ring gears. Now it flies like it did new.



Note the bad bend in the servo linkage, many hard blade strikes do that. Fortunately they bend back easily.



Here it is with all the new parts, still looks pretty rough but flies great. The body is entirely covered with heavy packing tape to hold it's shape and stand up better to blade strikes. The tape is usually changed about every month or so, cheaper than buying new bodies. To protect the frame arms from getting broken off so quickly we found that running with no grommets and using tape on the back makes them last a lot longer because the body "floats" and absorbs part of the blade strike thus protecting the frame. They do eventually break off after enough blade strikes though. I also make a little piece that holds the two arms that form the slot for the back pin of the swash plate. It's made from yellow electrical tape with two holes punched in it. It really makes the frame last a lot longer as frequent blade strikes will put force on the frame arms through the blades and servo rods, bending and eventually fatiguing the frame arms. You can also note the splice in the battery wires where it had been cut from too many blade strikes. Running the stock fly bar (cut down on the ends) or the even shorter one from the S300 (I think?) really helps reduce parts breakage due to lighter mass. The blades do show a lot of chips from blade strikes but they will be run until they are totally broken off or the knobs at the hub break off.



Two of the warriors facing off prior to dog fighting.



And of course the final obligatory photo of the "pile", this is the reason Greg at Hillsboro Hobby smiles when we come in for parts. This pile is the result of about 6 months of battle. We usually "fight" at least three nights a week for 1.5 - 2 hours per session, it takes a lot of batteries and chargers to keep us constantly in the air. This sport is not for those that must have perfect looking birds or those that don't really want to dig deep to sort and fix problems. But boy is it fun!!!!!

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Old Sep 04, 2012, 01:37 PM
Against Helicopter Cruelty
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Joined Aug 2011
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Poor helicopter. I think I'll just bite my tongue and let the pictures speak for themselves.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 05:20 PM
npm
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Portland OR
Joined Jan 2003
86 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Heli Pad View Post
Poor helicopter. I think I'll just bite my tongue and let the pictures speak for themselves.
Yeah I know, I have a nice one that's bigger that I fly outdoors and I wouldn't dream of doing anything like this with it. The thing is we can crash these all night long and usually only have something break every 4-5 hours of combat. These copters can really take a pounding and go right back in the air.

I sort of look at it like the difference between racing cars or collecting cars. The race cars get really beat on and owners put in the money to fix them because it's so much fun working on them and racing them. The collector guys tend to drive them in the best weather and show them off. In the end racing and collecting are different but both fun to do.

The plus side is it has dramatically improved our flying skills and I don't believe there is a problem they can have we can't easily diagnose and fix (necessity being the mother of invention or something like that). OK the mother board isn't included in that comment though we do change out the servo motors on the board when they go bad.

You're not alone in your thoughts, everybody we talk to about combat flying looks at us like we're crazy, except of course for the hobby shop owner who looks forward to our all too frequent visits.
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Last edited by npm; Sep 04, 2012 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2012, 05:24 AM
USAF Retired - 1968-1988
Jake8131's Avatar
United States, IL, Mascoutah
Joined Dec 2010
3,221 Posts
Another flight!


http://youtu.be/FZfttAJZQ4g?hd=1
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 10:42 AM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
Gary Hoorn's Avatar
USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,879 Posts
I have searched the thread but must be overlooking this. Does the latest version of the MCX2 come with the 150mah lipo? Sorry if this has been answered and I have missed it.
Gary
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 03:13 PM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,519 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Hoorn View Post
I have searched the thread but must be overlooking this. Does the latest version of the MCX2 come with the 150mah lipo? Sorry if this has been answered and I have missed it.
Gary
Im pretty sure it is just a 120mah, I find that aftermarket 25c 130mah batteries work best with the mCX2

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1646234
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 03:34 PM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
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USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,879 Posts
valiantGLX,
Thank you.
Gary
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Old Sep 28, 2012, 07:29 PM
Chesapeake Bay RC Club
Gary Hoorn's Avatar
USA, MD, Annapolis
Joined Feb 2005
4,879 Posts
Will the new EFlite 150mah lipo fit in this heli?
Gary
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