This is well worth a look in for all of those who dabble with mCX2s

How to modify your mCX2's navigation light effects without a soldering iron (6 min 43 sec)

I somehow messed up one of the motors on my new mCX2. The heli wasn't getting any lift and I thought I'd damaged a blade. I took it to the hobby shop and one of the guys gave it a quickly look and said the frame needed to be replaced. Anyway, I bought a new frame and attempted to fix it this AM. I took it apart slowly and when I looked at the motors I realized they must have overheated... either that or they're shipped melted into the frame. I guess I can try to carefully cut them out and then re-seat them in the new frame and see if they still work.

Originally Posted by walt007

I somehow messed up one of the motors on my new mCX2. The heli wasn't getting any lift and I thought I'd damaged a blade. I took it to the hobby shop and one of the guys gave it a quickly look and said the frame needed to be replaced. Anyway, I bought a new frame and attempted to fix it this AM. I took it apart slowly and when I looked at the motors I realized they must have overheated... either that or they're shipped melted into the frame. I guess I can try to carefully cut them out and then re-seat them in the new frame and see if they still work.

It is apparently a very common issue, although I have never experienced it. I dare say that you have a larger mAh battery than stock, or several stock mAh batteries, and either flew it too long, or didnt give the motors enough time to cool down between flights.

If I were you I'd replace the motors too. even if they still work they may not be as powerful as they were prior to overheating, they may not be as effecient and they definately will be more prone to failure in the future.

To prevent the issue re-occuring, time your flights to 5 minutes only, and use the carbon fibre tail boom. Additionally you could purchase the MicroHeli CNC mainframe which works as a heatsink.

You may find this link useful: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1646234

I will say this again, and again, and again. Blade dropped the ball on the mcx2 with it;s flimsy frame holding the larger motors than that of the MCX. They should have made the area around the motor mounts thicker than the MCX.

Many of you mcX2 owners should get together and bombard Horizon Hobbies about this "DEFECT"....yes, a DEFECT

Buy an MCX boys I haven't had one bit of trouble in over two years. I only had to replace a set of motors.....WOW Also bigger motors doesn't mean you can fly better outside. I fly outside all the time in calm with my MCX, BUT, I do have the MSR swashplate installed. I've seen hundreds of vids of the mcX2 helis flying inside, never outside. One of these days, I'll post a flight outside flying my MCX My DX6i is set at 5 minutes but, I usually tack on another minute...Hey, I need time to bring here in from the wild

Just my 2¢

Mike.

Originally Posted by valiantGLX

It is apparently a very common issue, although I have never experienced it. I dare say that you have a larger mAh battery than stock, or several stock mAh batteries, and either flew it too long, or didnt give the motors enough time to cool down between flights.

If I were you I'd replace the motors too. even if they still work they may not be as powerful as they were prior to overheating, they may not be as effecient and they definately will be more prone to failure in the future.

To prevent the issue re-occuring, time your flights to 5 minutes only, and use the carbon fibre tail boom. Additionally you could purchase the MicroHeli CNC mainframe which works as a heatsink.

You may find this link useful: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1646234

I have the stock battery but I guess I flew it too long and didn't give it time to cool down. I'm going to order some new motors and hopefully that will resolve the problem. I'll probably order the MicroHeli mainframe once after I get my LadyBird parts from MH... I just want to see what their product is like before I order again.

Thanks for your help! I really appreciate it.

Barry

Originally Posted by walt007

I have the stock battery but I guess I flew it too long and didn't give it time to cool down. I'm going to order some new motors and hopefully that will resolve the problem. I'll probably order the MicroHeli mainframe once after I get my LadyBird parts from MH... I just want to see what their product is like before I order again.

Thanks for your help! I really appreciate it.

Barry

No worries Bazza

Originally Posted by Chap1012

I will say this again, and again, and again. Blade dropped the ball on the mcx2 with it;s flimsy frame holding the larger motors than that of the MCX. They should have made the area around the motor mounts thicker than the MCX.

Many of you mcX2 owners should get together and bombard Horizon Hobbies about this "DEFECT"....yes, a DEFECT

Buy an MCX boys I haven't had one bit of trouble in over two years. I only had to replace a set of motors.....WOW Also bigger motors doesn't mean you can fly better outside. I fly outside all the time in calm with my MCX, BUT, I do have the MSR swashplate installed. I've seen hundreds of vids of the mcX2 helis flying inside, never outside. One of these days, I'll post a flight outside flying my MCX My DX6i is set at 5 minutes but, I usually tack on another minute...Hey, I need time to bring here in from the wild

Just my 2¢

Mike.

C'mon it's not a defect. It would be like saying your diff (differential in a car) is defective because it blew after doing burnouts, and the cars owners manual didnt say not to do burnouts.

I dont fly for 5 mins either, infact I usually fly to the LVC with my 25c 130's but my batteries are still good and I have never melted a mainframe. However I do give the motors 5min to cool after flights.

Do post an outside flight video, I look forwards to it. I have some footage of my mCX2 Bravo night flying outside, but I havent had a chance to up load it yet. Also it is quite unimpressive as all you can see is the navigation lights

Originally Posted by valiantGLX

C'mon it's not a defect. It would be like saying your diff (differential in a car) is defective because it blew after doing burnouts, and the cars owners manual didnt say not to do burnouts.

<SNIP>

And Blade/Eflight's manual doesn't say how long to fly your heli (you can't find that fact anywhere). You are talking apples and oranges. You are trying to compare the drive train of an automobile to that of a plastic piece of a toy that holds a tiny motor

C'mon, Blade could have made that piece of plastic a bit thicker. It's common sense. So, is it a defect (not knowing what an outcome will be) or is it just a matter of Blade lining their pockets to save on plastic. I don't think it's the latter as plastic is pretty cheap.

Defect: http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/defect

Blade knows what's going on with these frames. Are they doing anything about it? I think not.

Mike.

Originally Posted by Chap1012

<SNIP>

And Blade/Eflight's manual doesn't say how long to fly your heli (you can't find that fact anywhere). You are talking apples and oranges. You are trying to compare the drive train of an automobile to that of a plastic piece of a toy that holds a tiny motor

C'mon, Blade could have made that piece of plastic a bit thicker. It's common sense. So, is it a defect (not knowing what an outcome will be) or is it just a matter of Blade lining their pockets to save on plastic. I don't think it's the latter as plastic is pretty cheap.

Defect: http://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/defect

Blade knows what's going on with these frames. Are they doing anything about it? I think not.

Mike.

Maybe it could be considered a partial defect as it is complete and adequate, just not completely perfect.

Yeah ok, they could have made the plastic a bit thicker considering what we pay for them.

The comparison between the automobile drivetrain and the mCX2 is fitting (with an open mind), sort of lol .

Maybe the mCX3 will sport a better mainframe. I am hoping for stronger skids myself, thats the only part that I regularly break.

On an unrelated note I love your use of the word 'automobile', it rarely gets used these days, its such a shame. These kids with their mobile phones and facebook will be the ruination of the english language omg thx 4 nuttn ur al ltl bstrds lol, lern 2 spel rite b4 we al rite lyk dis, cya l8r lmfao

Originally Posted by valiantGLX

omg thx 4 nuttn ur al ltl bstrds lol, lern 2 spel rite b4 we al rite lyk dis, cya l8r lmfao

ROFLMAO

Cheers

Mike.

As mentioned in a previous post my friends and I fly combat (full contact) 3-4 nights a week. We run probably 8-10 batteries per session through each copter (I hate to think what has been spent on batteries and chargers). A few batteries are the smaller ones that came with the copter (120?) and the rest are 150, both sizes are 25C. When flying we are very hard on the throttle, only stopping long enough to pick them up and put them back in the air when they crash. Usually we run them until the voltage is so low the copters fall out of the air and often only allow a 2-3 minutes for the motors to cool before getting back at it. I think in the last two years I only recall two melted main frames. My thought is its a motor problem where friction builds up causing the motor to run hot. The motor on the melted side is replaced along with a new main frame when it gets melted. We now change motors when when they get "knotchy" on rotation which I believe might be the precursor to them running hot enough to melt the frame.

I should post up a picture of what these things look like after thousands of mid air collisions. Compared to the pristine machines you guys post up ours look like battle weary war wagons held together with a lot of tape. I've got to find somebody with a good enough camera to record the combat sessions, we tried with a cheaper one and it really wasn't worth watching the recording. It's got to be entertaining watching three grown men laugh themselves silly as they try and knock each other down.

Originally Posted by npm

As mentioned in a previous post my friends and I fly combat (full contact) 3-4 nights a week. We run probably 8-10 batteries per session through each copter (I hate to think what has been spent on batteries and chargers). A few batteries are the smaller ones that came with the copter (120?) and the rest are 150, both sizes are 25C. When flying we are very hard on the throttle, only stopping long enough to pick them up and put them back in the air when they crash. Usually we run them until the voltage is so low the copters fall out of the air and often only allow a 2-3 minutes for the motors to cool before getting back at it. I think in the last two years I only recall two melted main frames. My thought is its a motor problem where friction builds up causing the motor to run hot. The motor on the melted side is replaced along with a new main frame when it gets melted. We now change motors when when they get "knotchy" on rotation which I believe might be the precursor to them running hot enough to melt the frame.

I should post up a picture of what these things look like after thousands of mid air collisions. Compared to the pristine machines you guys post up ours look like battle weary war wagons held together with a lot of tape. I've got to find somebody with a good enough camera to record the combat sessions, we tried with a cheaper one and it really wasn't worth watching the recording. It's got to be entertaining watching three grown men laugh themselves silly as they try and knock each other down.

Cool...bring on the pics and vids

LOL! Just don't tell Heli Pad. He's against helicopter cruelty, you know.

I've now replaced both motors and the frame. The lower blade still doesn't spin... I'm thinking the shaft might be slightly bent but it's hard to tell. I'm going to try a new battery with it and if that doesn't work it's going to the hobby shop.

Eflite has the MQX where the motors burn out as often as you change socks. They don't fix defects because they don't MAKE defective products, just ask them.