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Old Jun 28, 2012, 01:14 AM
The Helinator. "AL BE FLYING"
Joined Jun 2012
126 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by belblade View Post
hi everyone
first of all: i'm new to this forum and to the world of heli-flying (not counting the toy i once got a while back ...)
i've bought the mcx2 and the dx6i to get me started
i have something weird going on : all flight controls work except 2 things that seem off:
1) when i push forward on the right stick (it's a mode 2) it goes forward but also notably to the left
2) when i push the right stick to the left, it moves/strafes left a lot faster than when i push that same stick to the right
both seem to be relate to each other as the "net" result of both is that there seems to be an "exagerating" of the left movement. Trimming does not seem to help and the heli also hovers relatively in place. I've learned to compensate quite quickly but don't know if this is "expected" behaviour or if there is something i should check
it did this from the very first flight so pre any crashes (there have been a few since )

tia for your help !
Copy VALIANT's settings......it works magic. I actually do not use the carbon tail boom like everyone else does and the settings still work amazing The DX6i is a gem....well, they all are I upgraded everything to CNC and it is WAY worth the cost. It makes the heli even more super stable and "throwable". FUN. Plus, when I do precision landings in my living room everyday....it is perfect. Hovers 8 inches off the ground like prop swash does not exist
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 03:38 PM
Registered User
Joined Jun 2012
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hey
thanks for your warm welcomes and quick replies
both the mcx2 and the dx6i were brand spanking new...
the swashplate looks perfect to me (as far i can tell)
leaving on a trip tomorrow and too busy to take pictures

i have already used valiant's settings and while general flight does seem better, it keeps suffering from the "left" problem. If i push the right stick upwards it goes forward but also very strongely to the left... I can live with it but did not expect it to be this "bad" to be honest
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 07:29 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
6,674 Posts
It shouldn't do it that bad. Hmmm. Name: hmm.gif
Views: 31
Size: 376 Bytes
Description:
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 07:34 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
4,771 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by belblade View Post
hey
thanks for your warm welcomes and quick replies
both the mcx2 and the dx6i were brand spanking new...
the swashplate looks perfect to me (as far i can tell)
leaving on a trip tomorrow and too busy to take pictures

i have already used valiant's settings and while general flight does seem better, it keeps suffering from the "left" problem. If i push the right stick upwards it goes forward but also very strongely to the left... I can live with it but did not expect it to be this "bad" to be honest
Well, have a good trip and when you get back, see if you could post some closeup shots of your swashplate. At least two pix... one from the front and one from the the side. Nice and close!

I know there's a bunch of us here who are keen on getting your MCX2 flying as good as ours...
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Old Jun 28, 2012, 11:44 PM
The Helinator. "AL BE FLYING"
Joined Jun 2012
126 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Hey, while we are talking mCX2 mods, I ran across a cool one from Dave (NightFlyyer) that I really wanted to do to my own:

mCX2 modified for "FAA Approved" lighting:
http://www.youtube.com/user/NightFly...15/Djn719cdwb4

The only problem I saw with it is that the change means your plug does not remove all the wiring anymore, so you need to add wire to the orange lead as a service loop, allowing you to remove the tail. Things are tight enough in there already, and I just hate the idea of a chain of parts tied together by wire...

So, I thought I would "mod" his "mod" by just jumping a suitable ground from the PCB to the existing post on the header, where the plug with the orange wire goes.

This would cause the intermittently grounded (through the existing blinker circuit), then open connection to be permanently grounded, thus achieving the same result, but with a less invasive mod, and one that still allows routine removal of the tail exactly as it is now.

I have the appropriate gauge PCB jump wire, and decent soldering skills (though I hate surface mount/small resolution hand soldering!), so I got the handy ohm meter out to verify the ground at the cap, and then string a wire from there to the header PCB pad at the orange position.

While in there probing, I decided to verify if the unused pin on the header was VCC, Gnd, open, or even something else entirely.

Well, looky, looky -- the unused header pin is already hooked to ground. Woo Hoo!

So the obvious final and least invasive solution of all was at hand, just pull orange wire and pin, and relocate to the unused header position. In case you want to reverse this mod, just be careful to not over bend the tang holding the metal pin in, otherwise, it will break. But removing it with care means if for some reason I didn't like it, or wanted to return it to stock, it's easily done.

Well, it worked like a champ, here are a couple of photos:


1) Stock PCB and wiring


2) Orange wire moved to new location



3) Works like a champ! I love the look, with only tail now flashing, and solids on both sides, and even during daytime it is much more visible and appealing (to me).

Downsides? Well, I guess the power draw is incrementally increased, but given that I was getting ~ 10 minutes of flight time on a 150 mAh lipo, that is not a concern for me. Just changing the duty cycle of two LEDs from 50% to 100%, I doubt you would be able to measure the difference in flight time. (Yes, the tail light still flashes alternately!)
So.......just curious...how did you remove the wire? Just yank it? or is there some pin I can press to gently release it?
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Old Jun 30, 2012, 02:53 AM
Master of Micro Modding
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Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Hey, while we are talking mCX2 mods, I ran across a cool one from Dave (NightFlyyer) that I really wanted to do to my own:

mCX2 modified for "FAA Approved" lighting:
http://www.youtube.com/user/NightFly...15/Djn719cdwb4.........

.......So, I thought I would "mod" his "mod" by just jumping a suitable ground from the PCB to the existing post on the header, where the plug with the orange wire goes.......

........Well, looky, looky -- the unused header pin is already hooked to ground. Woo Hoo!......

......Well, it worked like a champ, here are a couple of photos:


OMG!!! That is FG awesome!!!

Do you mind if I add some of this post in my ultimate mCX2 upgrade page?
I have recently added a spotlight to one of my mCX2 builds, but I wired it directly onto the battery lead, and added a small plug so I can take it off. I WISH I SAW THIS POST BEFORE DOING THE BEFORE MENTIONED

I could have utalised all 4 pins for my build (I like the blinking lights). I would have added another pin from an old harness into the 4th slot, and split the red wire to power my spotlight . Infact I might still do this.

Here are the lights on my current build:

My mCX2 BRAVO (0 min 44 sec)
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Old Jun 30, 2012, 02:59 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,538 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by belblade View Post
hi everyone
first of all: i'm new to this forum and to the world of heli-flying (not counting the toy i once got a while back ...)

1) when i push forward on the right stick (it's a mode 2) it goes forward but also notably to the left
2) when i push the right stick to the left, it moves/strafes left a lot faster than when i push that same stick to the right
You could try mechanically trimming it

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Old Jun 30, 2012, 05:56 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
6,674 Posts
Dave (NightFlyyer) has youtube vids of the LED pinout mod... saw them back in the winter
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 04:03 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
2,538 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Dave (NightFlyyer) has youtube vids of the LED pinout mod... saw them back in the winter
But the method posted above is sooooooo much better. By swapping the orange pin over you achieve exactly what the NightFlyyer did without soldering anything to the 5-in-1. Then to further that if you want to add a spotlight you can add the 4th pin to the plug and split the red wire to power it constantly, again without soldering anything to the 5-in-1.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 09:34 AM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
6,674 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
But the method posted above is sooooooo much better. By swapping the orange pin over you achieve exactly what the NightFlyyer did without soldering anything to the 5-in-1. Then to further that if you want to add a spotlight you can add the 4th pin to the plug and split the red wire to power it constantly, again without soldering anything to the 5-in-1.
I'm pretty sure the method above IS the one of his I saw on youtube... there's more than one vid where he talks about it... maybe mentions what he "could have done" if he did it again... that sort of rings a bell... maybe not... maybe it was in the comments, can't remember.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 11:53 AM
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AtelierMadman's Avatar
Switzerland
Joined Apr 2012
32 Posts
Hi, I am new to this thread, which I read "in extenso". I am also brand new in helo flying and enjoyed learning from the forums.

Below is my small pictural contribution. My helo is named Red Baron and he fights often against my friend's MCX Major Skies. At the moment it's 1 flybar / 0 for Red Baron


My mCX2 on top of a real altimeter


I added a serious transmitter quite quickly after the purchase of the RTF. A real gem!


The first mod was to preserve my precious thumbs by removing the spikes from the sticks.


The second mod was to add backlight. Thanks to all who contributed to the "how-to" . I also steadied the NAV lights on the helo.


The last shot just shows the bowels of my transmitter before I closed it after the backlight mod.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 08:00 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
4,771 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sroc3 View Post
So.......just curious...how did you remove the wire? Just yank it? or is there some pin I can press to gently release it?
DO NOT YANK IT!!!!

What you do is look very closely at the white plastic housing. Get a magnifier to help you if needed. You will take a needle or a tweezers and VERY carefully bend back the white plastic finger that holds the pin in place. Then when that plastic is bent back (it should kind of stay there), GENTLY push the pin out from the front with your needle/tweezers. Then push the plastic back down again. Finally, you can very carefully push the pin back into the new slot. These wires are very delicate and can very easily be broken. Also pay attention to the orientation of the pin as it comes out as you'll want to re-insert it the same way.

I've done this mod on all of my MCX2s and love it. It's amazingly helpful when I fly with all of the lights off (and yes, I reference it in my MCX2 mod build blogs).
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 10:08 PM
The Helinator. "AL BE FLYING"
Joined Jun 2012
126 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by AtelierMadman View Post
Hi, I am new to this thread, which I read "in extenso". I am also brand new in helo flying and enjoyed learning from the forums.

Below is my small pictural contribution. My helo is named Red Baron and he fights often against my friend's MCX Major Skies. At the moment it's 1 flybar / 0 for Red Baron


My mCX2 on top of a real altimeter


I added a serious transmitter quite quickly after the purchase of the RTF. A real gem!


The first mod was to preserve my precious thumbs by removing the spikes from the sticks.


The second mod was to add backlight. Thanks to all who contributed to the "how-to" . I also steadied the NAV lights on the helo.


The last shot just shows the bowels of my transmitter before I closed it after the backlight mod.
Wow.....How'd you do the backlight moD?????? I SO NEED THAT. I almost got a DX8 cause it had a backlight....LOL.
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Old Jul 01, 2012, 10:21 PM
NotAnotherMomentLostToSei zures
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
11,249 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sroc3 View Post
Wow.....How'd you do the backlight moD?????? I SO NEED THAT. I almost got a DX8 cause it had a backlight....LOL.
A member gave me this. At your own risk! I myself will be doing it soon.
Vid:
Customizing my DX6i Part 3 - backlight - (4 min 31 sec)


Different colors are also available:
Green; http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...reen_DIY_.html

AHHH,, Blue, ::
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Blue_DIY_.html

White maybe? ::
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...hite_DIY_.html

Thank you "Scotsoft" for the info. Just passing it along. I will be doing the same. PITA, you can't see a darn thing. Thanks "Spektrum"...NOT

Mike.
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Old Jul 02, 2012, 03:40 AM
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Switzerland
Joined Apr 2012
32 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by sroc3 View Post
Wow.....How'd you do the backlight moD?????? I SO NEED THAT. I almost got a DX8 cause it had a backlight....LOL.
Search & Find (on this very forum): there are plenty of links explaing the "how to". Same on Youtube.

For information, I measured the current drawn by the mod : 44mA. I still need to measure the total consumption of the tx before I can say whether 44mA is an acceptable value or not.
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