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Old Mar 19, 2012, 11:21 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
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Another question...

Anybody have good luck using the white mcx blades? Since it's a question that spans mcx/mcx2, I thought it might be appropriate to put the question out in the open here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1617324


EDIT: though maybe this question is more appropriate left here...

Here's my question:

I don't know if this has been covered before (searching hasn't turned up any definitive results yet), but I've been having some problems with the white mcx blades. Here's a bit of history.

I bought a mcx at a clearance sale and wanted to turn it into an mcx s300. I got all S300 body parts (canopy, skids, tail) and picked up a set of white upper and lower blades:

EFLH2220W
EFLH2221W

However, when I put it all together, it flew really badly. I had to put the throttle way up to get it into the air and very quickly, the throttle was pegged and the helicopter was rotating rather than climbing. Feeling frustrated, I put the black upper and lower blades:

EFLH2220
ELFH2221

back on and then the little helicopter flew wonderfully. I tried mixing the white and black blades (I think I tried both combinations) and ran into the same problems with not being able to seemingly be able to generate enough lift. I remember looking side-on at the blades and seeing that they were not tracking in the same plane. I tried unscrewing and re-screwing them in different combinations and was able to sort of get them to track better but it didn't seem like they were as level as the black blades were.

I thought it was maybe a bad batch of blades or something so a couple of days ago I got another lower pair (as a potential replacement for my 9958's blades if/when I break them). I tried them out on my mcx S300 again and I had the same lift problems! I put the black blades back on and they worked SO much better.

I don't get it. Are the white blades just defective in this way in general? Am I just REALLY unlucky that two different hobby stores over 50 minutes away from each other would have bad stock--even when purchased several months apart? This is NOT a problem that I've heard much about from people on RCG or anywhere else. Am I just missing something?
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Last edited by RoboHeli; Mar 19, 2012 at 11:41 PM.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 05:09 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinman View Post
I just bought the MCX2 BNF and noticed that it came with the new 150mah battery. It's the same one as HH currently has on backorder. I was wondering if this nano-tech 160mah battery will fit in the MCX2 and if anyone has used it? The 150 is 6mm thick where the 160 is listed as being 8mm thick. The other diminsions appear to be the same.

BTW. I did notice that the new 150 comes with a sleeve spacer on it.

Bob

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...zone_Etc_.html
The 120 mAh E-flite battery is the best in my opinion, for better performance and throttle response anyway. The only thing the bigger batteries are good for is flying very casual for a long time

You may also consider reversing your battery orientation:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1504277







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Old Mar 20, 2012, 10:46 AM
Epilepsy Awareness
Chap1012's Avatar
United States, MA, Malden
Joined Mar 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thinman View Post
I just bought the MCX2 BNF and noticed that it came with the new 150mah battery. It's the same one as HH currently has on backorder. I was wondering if this nano-tech 160mah battery will fit in the MCX2 and if anyone has used it? The 150 is 6mm thick where the 160 is listed as being 8mm thick. The other diminsions appear to be the same.

BTW. I did notice that the new 150 comes with a sleeve spacer on it.

Bob

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...zone_Etc_.html
Bob, that link you provided, if you read it carefully it says it is suited for the mcX2. BTW, I use Thunder Power 160mah in my mcX and love them. They are a bit on the pricey side though.

Mike.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 12:47 PM
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kodak_jack's Avatar
Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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Speaking of being on the pricey side, how much are all of those Microheli mods worth, Valiant? Microheli stuff is NOT cheap. That aluminum frame is a good example.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 01:01 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Good new and bad news...

Looks like I have a dying motor on the mcx s300 (was probably going to get new ones anyway).

On the bright side, I'm working on a more scale looking boom...

(pictured with its brother to make this more relevant to this thread )
Name: mcx2-mcxs300-1.jpg
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Question... should I buy mcx or maybe mcx2 motors? Will the stock s300 5in1 run the mcx2 ones?
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 01:37 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
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I wouldn't recommend using the mcx2 motors on a mcx 5in1 for a helicopter as light as the s300. I think valiantGLX will agree with that assessment but I'll let him tell his story.

I'm running mcx2 motors with a mcx 5in1 with a MIA Micro-Flight MD500E scale fuselage conversion because it added about 3 ounce GRAMS of weight (~10% increase!) Even with that, I still have had to mess with my DX6i throttle curve to get some balance between blasting off and falling out of the sky. With a light S300 you'll hit the ceiling and may have a lot of control problem. The mcx2 5-in-1 matches so much better to those motors for stock helis...
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Last edited by RoboHeli; Mar 20, 2012 at 08:12 PM. Reason: LOL. I meant grams, not ounces!!!
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 03:24 PM
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valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
I wouldn't recommend using the mcx2 motors on a mcx 5in1 for a helicopter as light as the s300. I think valiantGLX will agree with that assessment but I'll let him tell his story.
Too right mate!

At first it had way tooooo much power, then after a couple more filghts I think the mCX2 motors fried the mCX 5-in-1. It would spin out of control every time I used a bit of throttle, but the interesting thing was that once at a stable hover it would fly fine, but when I needed the throttle again it would spin out of control. When I connected the mCX 5-in-1 back to the S300 main frame it displayed the same problem. It certainly has me baffled, the fix was to buy a second hand mCX2 5-in-1
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 03:38 PM
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Australia, SA, Burra
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kodak_jack View Post
Speaking of being on the pricey side, how much are all of those Microheli mods worth, Valiant? Microheli stuff is NOT cheap. That aluminum frame is a good example.
All money well spent

I have certainly got more entertainment value out of it than Euro's spent.

I actually sold that mainframe on my old mCX2, while it soaked up the motor heat really well, in the end it was more trouble than it was worth.

I would go through a set of canopy mounts every month from the carbon fibre rod being too thick and blunt. Then everytime I crashed those same rods would break free as they are only held on by a dap of superglue.

The worst thing by far though was that the gears would sometimes jam when I would spin the rotors slowly. It still flew great, it just pissed me off that everything wasn't working perfectly
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 06:59 PM
Scout CX | mCX2 | mSR | 120SR
North_of_49's Avatar
Canada, AB, Edmonton
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
I wouldn't recommend using the mcx2 motors on a mcx 5in1 for a helicopter as light as the s300. I think valiantGLX will agree with that assessment but I'll let him tell his story.

I'm running mcx2 motors with a mcx 5in1 with a MIA Micro-Flight MD500E scale fuselage conversion because it added about 3 ounce of weight (~10% increase!) Even with that, I still have had to mess with my DX6i throttle curve to get some balance between blasting off and falling out of the sky. With a light S300 you'll hit the ceiling and may have a lot of control problem. The mcx2 5-in-1 matches so much better to those motors for stock helis...
Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
Too right mate!

At first it had way tooooo much power, then after a couple more filghts I think the mCX2 motors fried the mCX 5-in-1. It would spin out of control every time I used a bit of throttle, but the interesting thing was that once at a stable hover it would fly fine, but when I needed the throttle again it would spin out of control. When I connected the mCX 5-in-1 back to the S300 main frame it displayed the same problem. It certainly has me baffled, the fix was to buy a second hand mCX2 5-in-1
Ok, I remember that now... rings a bell

Robo, I'm assuming that's a typo and you mean 3 grams, not ounces?!
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 08:14 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by North_of_49 View Post
Robo, I'm assuming that's a typo and you mean 3 grams, not ounces?!
ROFL. Yes. 3 grams. I corrected the post.
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 08:18 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by valiantGLX View Post
All money well spent

I would go through a set of canopy mounts every month from the carbon fibre rod being too thick and blunt. Then everytime I crashed those same rods would break free as they are only held on by a dap of superglue.

The worst thing by far though was that the gears would sometimes jam when I would spin the rotors slowly. It still flew great, it just pissed me off that everything wasn't working perfectly
Good notes there valiantGLX. I'm going to use o-rings to keep the rods pushed into the open slots of the mainframe and see how that works.

Regarding the gears, I think the problem there is that the right motor doesn't sit low enough in its slot and there is barely any clearance between the lower pinion and the upper gear. Thus if you have any warping in the upper gear, it'll strike.

I'm going to try pulling the pinion gear a millimeter or so and see if that helps. I need to pull it out long enough that it will have enough clearance to avoid the upper gear but keep it in long enough so that it doesn't fall out! This should be an interesting experiment.

Say, did you ever have vibration problems with your mCX2 when using the CF boom? How did you fix that?
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Old Mar 20, 2012, 11:19 PM
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@valiantGLX : I remembered I had another question for you.

When you shorten you main shaft, how do you do it? Take a rotary tool with the cutting disk and remove 1cm and then do you grind down the shaft to make the "flat" spot for the lower gear set screw to fit into?
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 01:03 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Joined Dec 2011
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Sorry for the quadruple post...

Does anyone know of alternate canopies that can be used instead of the stock mcx2 canopy? I'd like to get some options for other colors or styles but I'm not sure what else might fit. I thought that maybe the NE Draco canopies might fit but I can't find any in stock anywhere right now...
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 04:40 AM
Master of Micro Modding
valiantGLX's Avatar
Australia, SA, Burra
Joined Sep 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Good notes there valiantGLX. I'm going to use o-rings to keep the rods pushed into the open slots of the mainframe and see how that works.

Regarding the gears, I think the problem there is that the right motor doesn't sit low enough in its slot and there is barely any clearance between the lower pinion and the upper gear. Thus if you have any warping in the upper gear, it'll strike.

I'm going to try pulling the pinion gear a millimeter or so and see if that helps. I need to pull it out long enough that it will have enough clearance to avoid the upper gear but keep it in long enough so that it doesn't fall out! This should be an interesting experiment.

Say, did you ever have vibration problems with your mCX2 when using the CF boom? How did you fix that?
Thats a good idea to use o-rings to hold the carbon fibre rods in place, I'd cover the whole lot in glue too just to be sure

With the gears it wasn't a problem that the pinions weren't in the right place, they sat perfectly and didn't strike both of the gears at the sametime. I believe that the crux of the issue was that MicroHeli moved the position of the motors (closer together), when I rotated the rotors slowly at several points during the oscilation (I know there has to be a better word, it's just too early in the morning to think of it) the teeth on the pinion and gears would end up on top of each other, not side by side, thus jamming up. I tried to cut a microscopic slither off every individual tooth on the plastic gear, but that didn't work, so I got the heli at full throttle then held a nail file briefly against the gear, that didn't work either thats about when I decided to get rid of it

I have experienced the tailboom vibration issue with both of my mcx2's and my S300, there is no permant fix, and I don't think anybody truly understands what causes it. However I have 2 temporary solutions:

1. Whilst pirouetting, go full throttle then when it is just about to hit the celing cut the throttle, then go full throttle again when it is just about to hit the floor, and continue until the vibration stops.
2. A good crash usually fixes it too

Some people say that some sticky tape or glue around where the tailboom inserts will fix it, some people even say moving the sliding weight will fix it, but to put it simply they're wrong. Nothing will ever fix it permanently.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RoboHeli View Post
Sorry for the quadruple post...

Does anyone know of alternate canopies that can be used instead of the stock mcx2 canopy? I'd like to get some options for other colors or styles but I'm not sure what else might fit. I thought that maybe the NE Draco canopies might fit but I can't find any in stock anywhere right now...
In regards to the canopies, I quite like the stock one, well the front part anyway I recently bought some Force battle heli canopies just for a play around, but sadly the Force helis must use a different mainframe so they didnt fit, they are also a bit wider than the mCX2 mainframe will allow. MIA has got some cool bodies too but he charges way too much postage, and he is not willing to negotiate, so I would never buy off him. I once asked him about the $20 postage just to send the flybar weights to germany, he told me thats what he pays, BULL. Apart from that I really dont know of any others
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Old Mar 21, 2012, 04:48 AM
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Hilton (Rochester), NY
Joined Mar 2008
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Glad you posted the problem with the Microheli frame so everybody isn't running out and getting one. The motors being in less than an ideal location is a big factor and, as you described, there isn't a thing you can do about it!!
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